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Grand Canyon

Posted on 10/19/24 at 5:43 pm
Posted by Alyosha
Member since Nov 2020
9383 posts
Posted on 10/19/24 at 5:43 pm
Going over thanksgiving break and staying nearby at the south entrance only a few miles from the rim. What do I need to know? Tourist traffic? What trails to hike? What to avoid? Must see?
Posted by Fun Bunch
New Orleans
Member since May 2008
127668 posts
Posted on 10/19/24 at 6:19 pm to
I def would have recommended just spending the money and staying on the rim, but that’s just me.

The shuttle buses are worthwhile so take advantage of them within the park.

To me eating dinner at El Tovar was cool and expensive and not necessarily worth it food wise but a pretty place.

Posted by GOP_Tiger
Baton Rouge
Member since Jan 2005
20599 posts
Posted on 10/19/24 at 6:58 pm to
Bring warm clothes. Went for Thanksgiving a few years ago and a lot of the trails had snow and ice
Posted by Alyosha
Member since Nov 2020
9383 posts
Posted on 10/20/24 at 6:54 am to
quote:

def would have recommended just spending the money and staying on the rim, but that’s just me.


Can you elaborate on why?
Posted by TulaneLSU
Member since Aug 2003
Member since Dec 2007
13605 posts
Posted on 10/20/24 at 7:32 am to
Friend,

The Grand Canyon is easily a 5-7 day national park. If you are not currently trying to get a reservation at Phantom Ranch, you are missing out on the primary reason to go to the Grand Canyon -- to hike to the base and back. Reservations are among the most difficult reservations of any accommodations in America, especially true these days, when the dormitories have not reopened.

Phantom Ranch will be closed from January 2 through March, so you have a chance. You can try for a reservation through LINK
In the week of your trip, you may yet have a chance to get reservations, as inevitably someone ends up canceling most days. Read this article about contacting Bright Angel Lodge on the day before or day of: LINK There are also Facebook groups on Phantom Ranch that may be of help.

As with most parks, it is well worth it to stay inside the park. We usually stay at El Tovar, which certainly will have openings while you are there. Even if LINK does not show openings now, keep trying. I cannot remember a time we have been there when El Tovar did not have openings. Once there, the hotel staff will also place outside the hotel a small placard stating vacancies.

The Bright Angel Lodge is also a viable option. You can get one of their delightful cabins at a price. We stayed once in the Buckey O’Neill Cabin which has an amazing view of the rim. It is an exceedingly difficult reservation to get, so it is unlikely at this point, but one never knows. Staying in one of the dorm-like rooms at Bright Angel is also a possibility. Cousin and I did this once when we did a Rim to Rim to Rim day. It was very cheap (<$100), quiet, and comfortable. It does not have air conditioning, but that will not be an issue from October to April. It has heating, and yes, it will likely be chilly while you are there.

Dining at the Grand Canyon is not very good. El Tovar is okay. I have noted it is better in the Fall, after the staff has had the summer to train, than in the Spring, when they bring a new crop of cooks and waiters in almost every year. Even though people talk about it like it is an impossible reservation to get, we have seldom had trouble walking up and joining the wait list. The Maswick food court is absolutely horrendous. I cannot get the taste of a terrible pizza I tried there out of my mind. We have never tried the restaurant or the steakhouse attached to Bright Angel Lodge. The food at Phantom Ranch is incredible. You must prepurchase and it is very expensive. I recommend the stew for dinner, either meat or vegetarian, over the steak.

Trails you should do include the Bright Angel and South Kaibab. Both go to the base of the canyon. The Bright Angel is less steep and much easier, even though it is longer. Although the views are incredible from both, I think SK has the edge on views. I do not like doing the SK on the way down, however, as it is a killer on the knees due to its unrelenting slope.

Once at the base of the canyon, Ribbon Falls is a must. If you are in good shape, you could do Ribbon Falls on the same day you descend or ascend the canyon, but that is pushing it. If possible, the ideal would be hike down in the morning to Phantom. Take your time and enjoy the hike down. Once at the bottom, grab a shower and take it easy. Get an early seating for dinner and then go to sleep early. Wake up late and have a late breakfast and do Ribbon Falls. You could do some of the hike up the North Rim as well. Spend a second night at Phantom and then have a nice early breakfast and hike up.

On second thought, you are going off season, so they will probably only have one seating at breakfast (6) and dinner (6). That is how it was the last time I was there in December.


If you want an easy trail with virtually no elevation, the Rim Trail is really your only option. It is what it says. It stretches 14 miles from Hermit's Rest, the site of an old and now closed resort, to the start of the South Kaibab trail on the east side. If you are really wanting a challenge, you could try to walk both east and west routes, with a 27 mile total. But I do not recommend this in November, as you will not have that much daylight. Its doable, but you cannot really explore along the trail.

The part of this trail from SK to Grand Canyon Village is usually fairly crowded and, besides the stunning views, not particularly great. Once you get to the Bright Angel trailhead that is where the trail becomes less crowded, less developed, and far more interesting. Most people end up taking the Red Bus from stop to stop along this 7 or 8 mile portion of the hike. I do not recommend taking the bus. Towards the terminus on the west side you do have to walk on the road maybe a quarter mile, but most of the walk is fairly rugged and wild. The views are unmatched. Once you arrive at Hermit's Rest, you can get the Red Bus back to Bright Angel trailhead, or hike back.

Hermit's Rest has a very good trail to the base of the canyon also. It does not get the publicity of BA or SK. And it honestly is not as good as those trails, but it is always nearly empty, so if solitude is your goal, it is a reasonable alternative. But in November both BA and SK will not be that crowded either.

I have never done the hikes on the eastern part of the canyon. I have read that they are not as maintained. A drive along the rim to the eastern entrance is one way to see other parts of the canyon many do not. There are lots of stops and wondrous overlooks.

Yours,
TulaneLSU

P.S. I can also not stress hard enough not to use the website US Park Lodging. They have no association with the NPS and you will pay more and likely not be inside the park.
This post was edited on 10/20/24 at 8:00 am
Posted by baldona
Florida
Member since Feb 2016
23245 posts
Posted on 10/20/24 at 9:55 am to
quote:

Going over thanksgiving break and staying nearby at the south entrance only a few miles from the rim. What do I need to know? Tourist traffic? What trails to hike? What to avoid? Must see?


Who is going? Ages and plans? I went with 3 kids Thanksgiving time 2022 and we had great weather. A little chilly but we were in an RV so it was great to sit around a campfire. We stayed in the RV village in the park. We left a day early because we ran out of things to do, spent 2 nights instead of 3.

There's NOTHING around. I'm assuming you are staying in Tusayan? That's fine, its like 5-7 miles away. A short drive. There's a handful of hotels there, a general store, gas station, and that's it for like 50 miles outside of Grand Canyon NP. So just be prepared to bring everything you think you need other than basics.

The reason I left early is I had little kids. Terrible park for little kids because most of the views and hikes have extreme drop offs that are extremely close. I'm not against that at all, I just wasn't expecting it to be as bad as it was. As said, there could easily be snow and ice so just be leery of that, but it could also be 70 degrees and beautiful.

ETA: There's the Overlook Trail that goes along the rim for something like 13-14 miles and there's a bunch of places to park along it. Then there's a handful of trails that go down into the canyon. The ones that go down many of them require passes and they have A LOT of elevation change, so if you don't know about them by now then there's a good chance you aren't going to want to do them.

This post was edited on 10/20/24 at 9:57 am
Posted by Alyosha
Member since Nov 2020
9383 posts
Posted on 10/20/24 at 10:21 am to
quote:

Tusayan


Yep. Everything else in the village is booked up. Kids won’t be a problem. Plan to walk the trail and such.

Would like to eat at El Tovar for thanksgiving meal.

More interested in knowing how to avoid traffic in getting into the park the the morning, and which parking lot is the most ideal.
Posted by TulaneLSU
Member since Aug 2003
Member since Dec 2007
13605 posts
Posted on 10/20/24 at 10:39 am to
Friend,

I am unaware of any of the trails into the canyon — South Kaibab, Bright Angel, or Hermit’s Rest — requiring a pass to hike down at any point in the last twenty years. We have hiked to the base at least once every three years during that time.

The great thing about hiking in November is the risk of heat stroke is much diminished. Every day from May through September someone there has to be rescued because they were not to hike down. The rangers are great, but I know it is frustrating, as there are signs everywhere warning not to do it unless prepared.

Even if you do not go all the way to the base most people in decent shape can make it down and back to Ooh Aah Point. If it has snowed, the path could be treacherous so keep that in mind.

El Tovar for Thanksgiving meal may be a hard reservation. We have never been during Thanksgiving. I would call today to see their availability. 928-638-2631, ext. 6432. You can make a reservation 30 days ahead, or 90 days if you are staying there. We have had the blessing of eating in the Roosevelt Room, which is just to the side of the entrance. Ask if they have availability kn that room if you want a more intimate setting. The chance of getting a table at one of the north facing windows that gives view of the canyon is unlikely at this point, but it is worth asking.

Yours,
TulaneLSU
This post was edited on 10/20/24 at 10:47 am
Posted by Fun Bunch
New Orleans
Member since May 2008
127668 posts
Posted on 10/20/24 at 6:50 pm to
quote:

Can you elaborate on why?


Traffic can suck in the park. Parking can REALLY suck on the rim.

Imagine just being able to walk outside and see the sunrise at the rim, or the sunset. Or getting back from the trail and being able to go directly to your room. It’s nice.

they are expensive for mediocre at best accommodations not gonna lie. But it’s nice especially if you’re there a short time.
This post was edited on 10/20/24 at 6:55 pm
Posted by Alyosha
Member since Nov 2020
9383 posts
Posted on 10/20/24 at 7:28 pm to
Well I was too late to book a place. Here’s to making the most of it all guess. Thanks for the heads up.
Posted by Fun Bunch
New Orleans
Member since May 2008
127668 posts
Posted on 10/20/24 at 7:35 pm to
Yeah you have to book like 8 months in advance at least to stay on the rim. It’s crazy.

I don’t have advice on traffic and parking because I took the train there and stayed on the rim.

Drink a shite ton of water. Take water bottles and refill. The elevation is killer.
Posted by TulaneLSU
Member since Aug 2003
Member since Dec 2007
13605 posts
Posted on 10/20/24 at 7:38 pm to
Friend,

It is not too late. Check LINK frequently, as in many times every day. Xanterra allows free cancellations up to 48 hours before arrival. Many reservations will open 72-50 hours before your arrival, however, many will open up every day. Be diligent in checking and you will not be let down. Be sure, first, to sign up for an account and log in before searching for a room. They can go quickly.

But do not give up hope. We have gotten El Tovar rooms multiple times one to two weeks before our stay. And every time we are there, we notice staff putting out notices of vacancies there on that day. It may be more difficult to get 3+ days in a row, but a night or two is likely, especially as you get closer to the date.

El Tovar and Blue Angel Lodge, especially if you get a cabin, are excellent stays far better than any hotel chain with a free breakfast outside the park.


I just checked the website above (hint: do flexible dates and it will give you availability for all lodges for all dates for a specific month). There is right now availability at Maswick Lodge. It is equivalent to the average chain hotel offsite, but is just a five minute walk to the rim. It is not our cup of tea, but if I had to, I would stay there before offsite.

Yours,
TulaneLSU
This post was edited on 10/20/24 at 7:45 pm
Posted by Alyosha
Member since Nov 2020
9383 posts
Posted on 10/20/24 at 8:17 pm to
I appreciate your posts. Thing is, the manager of the resort basically gave me a 50% off deal, only charging $900 for two rooms that both have two queens. I couldn’t pass it up which is around half my budget. Otherwise, I’d probably be more diligent in finding another way.
Posted by AFBuckeye
Ohio
Member since Oct 2021
1393 posts
Posted on 10/23/24 at 8:30 am to
Took my family to GC a couple of years ago in June, we stayed at the RV park in Tusayan. We took the bus from the visitor center right there directly into the park. Took maybe 20 minutes tops from Tusayan to main visitor center in the park. We were only there for a couple of days, would love to do more someday. Basically just walked along the south rim, stayed for sunset and then hiked some of the South Kaibab trail the second day.
Posted by JoeBobRuby
Member since Sep 2005
5942 posts
Posted on 11/3/24 at 6:51 am to
You'll be fine staying in Tusayan if you start early in the morning. Sunrise is a little after 7am so I'd recommend arriving at the gate before 6am. This will allow you to beat traffic and get to the rim early.

Check for viewpoints along the map for sunrise. Don't feel the need to go straight to the visitor's center.

Once you do few ride and stops at viewpoints I recommend SK down to Ooh Aah and/or BA down to Mile and a Half. Both are 1.5 down and 1.5 back up. If your crew is stronger than that I recommend SK down to Skeleton Point (bonus points if you hike down to Skeleton Point with headlamps to wait for sunrise). SK is completely dry so bring twice the amount of water you think you may need. At worst you'll be able to share with someone less prepared on the climb back out.

For a quiet, flat, 1 mile walk to the rim check out Shoshone Point along the East Rim drive. You'll need to mark it on a map as the parking lot is nondescript with no signage. Please don't be an a-hole with noise and littering if you visit Shoshone. Locals and wildlife photographers value that quiet spot away from the masses.

ETA: also drive out to Desert View watchtower. Out there you can see the canyon bend away from it's North-South orientation toward the West. As you see it realize the elevation is higher westward and the river seems to take an impossible path "uphill" as it veered west. This is caused by geological uplift after the river had already been established.

Read up on the layers and their approximate ages before going so that you can appreciate the impossible scale and relay it to your kids as you progress. Print a small cheat sheet to bring in your pocket.
This post was edited on 11/3/24 at 7:01 am
Posted by JoeBobRuby
Member since Sep 2005
5942 posts
Posted on 11/3/24 at 7:12 am to
quote:

TulaneLSU


If you do any overnight backpacking check out Tanner and Beamer. I've been to the confluence twice and it's a special journey to a holy place. Not for the faint of heart or soft of feet.
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