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Finished Trip Report: Yellowstone, RMNP, Custer State Park et al

Posted on 10/3/19 at 8:27 am
Posted by nctiger71
North Carolina
Member since Oct 2017
1327 posts
Posted on 10/3/19 at 8:27 am
We (wife & I)recently took a 6,500 mile road trip from NC to South Dakota, Wyoming, Montana and Colorado. I had a meeting in the Denver area to attend and rather than flying we decided to drive.
This was our first trip to this area of the county and it was wonderful.

We had to change the plans at the end of the trip due to Hurricane Dorian and ended up making a big circle to and from Kansas City. We had stopped in VA, TN and MO to and from KC as well.
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We got off the interstates frequently and took two land roads. They were all good roads and many had 70 or 75 mph speed limits and not much traffic.

On this part of the trip we stayed in:
Sioux City Iowa - 1 night, just a place to stay
Rapid City, SD - 3 nights
Billings, MT - 3 nights
Yellowstone NP - 3 nights
Green River, WY - 1 night
RMNP - 2 nights, 1 @ Grand Lake, 1 @ Estes Park
Denver Area - multiple nights for the meeting

There are many post on the TB about these places, and I got a lot of ideas for our trip from here, so hopefully this report will help other first time visitors here. Information about each major location will be in the post below this one.

There are separate post below for:
- Custer State Park/ South Dakota
- Little Big Horn/Buffalo Bill Museum/
- Yellowstone/Grand Teton
- Rocky Mountain National Park
- Food/Animal Pics
This post was edited on 10/6/19 at 10:27 pm
Posted by nctiger71
North Carolina
Member since Oct 2017
1327 posts
Posted on 10/3/19 at 8:27 am to
Key takeaway: There are a lot of things to do around Rapid City, SD besides going to Mount Rushmore.

After leaving Sioux City, IA we took a farm road to Yankton, SD and then to Chamberlin, SD. Most of this route is part of the Native American National Scenic By Way but it was mostly just a ride through farm land, but to me it is better than the interstate.

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There are two attractions in/near Chamberlain. There is the Akta Lakota (Sioux) Museum and the Dignity statue. The museum is located on the campus of the St. Joseph School for Indians which was founded by Catholic Priest in the 1800s. This is a statue at the entrance of the school.
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It takes 1 to 2 hours to tour the museum, depending on how many plaques you want to read.
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This outfit was worn in the movie Dances With Wolves.
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The statue Dignity is located at a rest stop on I-90. It sits on a bluff overlooking the river and they have a small museum there also.
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From there we took I-90 to Wall, SD and the Wall Drug Store; we had lunch and a donut. Worth doing once I guess. From there we took hwy 240 through the Badlands NP to the Ben Reifel Visitor Center.
On the way we took Rim Road to Roberts Prairie Dog Town. It was ~ 5 a mile drive on a dirt road, not too bumpy, but we saw prairie dogs right next to the road at Devils Monument NP a few days later.
Just a few images of the Badlands.
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Then we took Hwy 44 to Rapid City. Mount Rushmore is near RC but the highlight is Custer State Park. There are several great scenic drive in CSP as well as in the Black Hills Nat. Forest.

Rapid City:
RC seemed like a nice town, it has a downtown of 2 or 3 blocks by 6 or 7 blocks with restaurants and statues of all the presidents. We just drove around there.
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Custer State Park:
Go to the CSP visitor center as soon as you can and watch the short video about the park and talk to the rangers. They can tell you where the bison are. The video shows people climbing the needles on Needles Highway and the fall buffalo roundup.
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These are the primary drives we took in the RC area. In CSP there is: Wildlife Loop, Needles Highway and Iron Mt. Road, among others. All great.
The Spearfish Canyon Road is great also.
If you drive the Iron Mt. Road south to north you will see several places where Mt. Rushmore is visible through tunnels or other places.
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We went to the evening lighting of MR and I recommend that, they have a short program about the National Anthem, but not all their lights were working. Found out later that there is a walking trail where you can see MR from different perspectives.
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The "needles" on Needles Highway, people climb those.
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At one stop on Needles I talked to a rancher that had a 4 door, 4 seat, Polaris off road vehicle that he said was street legal ever where except for the interstates. He said it was a great way to go off road and see sights that can not be seen from other roads. If we ever get back plan to look into renting one.
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Tunnel on Needles Highway; it was not too busy when we were there but I can imagine that it could be.


Deadwood and Sturgis
Deadwood and Sturgis are not that far from RC. When we drove the Spearfish Canyon drive we also went to those. Deadwood is touristy and not much was going on in Sturgis since it was not bike week.
Stop by the visitor center in Deadwood and find out what's going on the day you are there. You can park for free at the visitor center and it is about a mile walk or you can park in a garage in the center of the old town.

There are two Saloon #10s, one where Wild Bill Hickok was killed and one where an actor talks about WBH and re-enacts the Aces & 8s card game. We got there late and had to stand so we did not stay for the entire show.

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Deadwood stage and original Saloon #10 in the background. At night they have the trial of Jack McCall, the guy that killed WBH.

There are other attractions that I would consider if we go back; Downtown Rapid City (restaurants, etc.), Black Hills Central Railroad in Hill City, Air & Space Museum at Ellsworth Air Force Base, Wind Cave National Park and Jewel Cave Nat. Monument.

Low priority places IMO.
Crazy Horse Monument: This is a private endeavor and the film about it is interesting. They also have a museum, restaurant and a Lakota Chief gave a 30 minute talk that was interesting. This is what it will look like when finished:
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But this is what it looks like now and they have been working on it since 1948.
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Keystone, kinda touristy town.

After 3 nights we left for Billings, MT.
This post was edited on 10/6/19 at 10:05 pm
Posted by nctiger71
North Carolina
Member since Oct 2017
1327 posts
Posted on 10/3/19 at 8:28 am to
Billings, Montana
Key Takeaway: The steaks were not as good as I expected and it is a long way between ranch/farm houses in WY and MT. We stayed in Billings because I wanted to drive the Beartooth Highway into Yellowstone when we go there.

We left Rapid City to Billings on I-90. First stop was the welcome center in WY. We told Kate, the clerk at the center, that we were going to Devil's Tower National Monument and she said we could take I-90 to Sundance or drive north a few miles and take Hwy 24 to DTHM; we took 24. After the monument we took a county road to US Hwy 212 and took it west to Crow Agency and picked up I-90 to Billings. If you ever go that way be sure your gas tank is full; it's 166 miles and I only recall seeing 1 gas station.
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We got on Hwy 24 at Aladdin, population 15 and the location of the Oldest General Store in WY at 125 years. Kate lives here so naturally we stopped in the store and told them Kate sent us. Lot of fun talking to those folks.
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I do not know the lady in the picture, she & a guy rode up on a motorcycle w/ another couple on theirs. I think they were from Sweden or some Nordic county. They walked in as we were leaving so did not talk to them.

Devil's Tower National Monument
We could see DTNM Monument from Hwy 24 far off in the distance.
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Other DM images a little closer.
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There were 12 people climbing DM that day.
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There is a pave path around the base that is about 1.3 miles and we walked around that.
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This is a view of the valley from the path around the base with the store w/ the flag seen in the picture above.
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Prarie Dogs can be seen on the way into the DM Visitor Center.

We left the monument and headed to Billings on Hwy 212. The Little Big Horn Battlefield is at Crow Agency near the intersection of Hwy 212 and I-90. We should have stopped there on this day but it was about 5:00; I did not know they were open until 8:00 pm. We came back another day but going later in the day would be better I think.
We stayed at the Little Big Horn Battlefield about 2 hours but I could have stayed 3 or 4. We watched the short video and listened to a couple of rangers, who talked a lot and were very knowledgeable.

Little Big Horn Battlefield
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Looking toward the LBH Visitor Center. The markers indicate where a solider died. They have other marker for the Indians.
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Looking toward the area where Custer, and others, died. Not all the soliders were killed in that one spot.
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This is part of a monument to honor the Indians that were killed there. I found it interesting that the Native Americans that we talked to, including the Chief at the Crazy Horse Attraction, called themselves Indians.

Cody, WY and The Buffalo Bill Museum
We drove to Cody from Billings one day to go to the Buffalo Bill Museum. It was about 2 hours. It is actually 5 museums; BB section, western art, firearms, natural history and Native American. They were all excellently done and I think my favorite is the western art one. I don't know why but we did not take any picture on the inside; not because we couldn't, we just didn't.

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Entrance to the museum.

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Another statue of BB taken from inside the museum.

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They also had ~ a dozen bids that had been injured and could not be released into the wild. This is a Golden Eagle that had been hit by a semi. They gave a short presentation about their work with the birds.

The drive from Billings to Cody was through a valley with mountains on each side. Just a few images from that drive.
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I thought the horse standing on the hill was interesting. There is a ranch house to the left but you can not see the horse if the house in the picture.

After 3 nights in Billings we left for Yellowstone via the Beartooth Highway.
This post was edited on 10/3/19 at 7:30 pm
Posted by nctiger71
North Carolina
Member since Oct 2017
1327 posts
Posted on 10/3/19 at 8:28 am to
Billings to Yellowstone via the Beartooth Scenic Byway
Key Takeaway:
Where you stay in Yellowstone matters a lot and staying in two different hotels/lodges is a good strategy; i.e., 2 nights in one and then 2 nights in a different one on the other side of the park.
We entered Yellowstone through the northeast gate and drove through the Lamar Valley to Lake Yellowstone. We were there 3 nights.
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Within Yellowstone there are 6 different areas that have hotels or lodges. And by lodge, they mean a cabin some of which do not have indoor plumbing and are heated with a wood stove. Or that is what we were told.
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On the map the red icons are lodging locations and the blue ones are just some of the key locations.
If you want to see the most wildlife you need to get up early and the Lamar Valley is the best place for that so the Roosevelt Lodge would be the best place to stay. But, those are cabins without bathrooms. the SO is not keen on that idea, if we ever go back.
From the Lake Yellowstone Hotel it is about an hour drive to the turn to Lamar Valley but we did not want to leave before daylight from fear of hitting a large mammal.
If you're going, I recommend splitting your nights between the Old Faithful location and then either Roosevelt, Canyon, or Mammoth in that order. The Lake YS hotel was very nice and I would stay there again but it is a relatively long way to Lamar Valley.
There is lodging in the town of West Yellowstone but that's a time consuming drive also.
Food in YS: Not very good, even at the "better" restaurants. And, none of them including the convenience stores open early so if you are getting up at day break to see wildlife you need to plan ahead for breakfast.

Bearthooth Scenic Byway
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Near the beginning of Beartooth, just west of Red Lodge. From here we will climb above the treeline to almost 11,000 feet.
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View from one of the many overlooks, this is Rock Creek Vista Point.
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This is near the sumit; ~ 11,000 feet elevation.
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Looking into the valley, that road leads to Silver Gate and then the northeast entrance to Yellowstone.
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We stopped in Silver Gate and had lunch at this place; the last good meal for a couple of days until we drove over to West Yellowstone for lunch.

Yellowstone images
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Bison in the Lamar Valley as we were driving in.

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Lake Yellowstone Hotel as seen from across a cove in the lake.
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View of the Lower Falls of the Grand Canyon of YS as seen from the south rim; near artist point I believe. A painting was in the Buffalo Bill museum from many years ago, 1800s I think, of this same view.
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The brink of the lower falls; the walk to there was `1/3 mile and a 600 foot change in elevation if I remember correctly. The path to the upper falls brink was closed due to repairs.

The canyon is on the east side of the park and Firehole Falls and swimming area are on the west side, not too far from Old Faithful.
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Firehole Falls, I first heard about his on the TB.
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The Firehole swimming area, which is near the falls.
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And right next to the No Diving or Jumping sign was this guy.

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This is Kepler Cascades which is a little south of Firehole and Old Faithful.

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This is near Old Faithful, about 8:30 am. We hung around here almost 3 hours waiting for several different geysers to erupt, and they all did.

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They post signs with a time range of when they may erupt. There are boardwalks that cover a large area so you can see lot safely.
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Castle Geyser erupting.

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View along the road west of the Canyon Village area, before 7:00 am.

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View of Lake Yellowstone from the lounge area of the hotel. They do have a nice bar and lounge area and live entertainment; a lady was playing the piano while we were there. It is a nice place to stay.

Yellowstone to Green River, WY through Grand Teton
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We're headed south out of Yellowstone into Grand Teton.
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We stopped at the visitor center/ranger desk at Lake Jackson where we took this picture. The ranger explained that there are two roads through the Jackson Hole valley to Jackson; we decided to take the west route as it went by Jenny Lake.

We drove up Signal Mountain which has two places to view the valley and the mountains. It had been closed just before we were there due to visitors feeding bears and I heard it was closed again after we left.
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GT view from Signal Mt., this is looking west.
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A view of Jackson Hole from Signal Mt. looking south toward Jackson.

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The Chapel of Transfiguration near the southern exit of the park.
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The view behind the alter from inside the church.
This post was edited on 10/4/19 at 10:13 am
Posted by nctiger71
North Carolina
Member since Oct 2017
1327 posts
Posted on 10/3/19 at 8:28 am to
Rocky Mountain National Park
We left Grant Teton headed to RMNP for 2 nights with a 1 night stop in Green River, WY.

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We took Hwy 530 to Vernal, UT and then Hwy 40 to Granby, CO and then Hwy 34 (Colorado River Headwaters Byway) to Grand Lake, CO. We drove by the Flaming Gorge National Recreation Area, Dinosaur National Monument and Steamboat Springs.

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A view of Flaming Gorge from an overlook. This is an incredible drive and all along the way they have signs about the geology and the type of dinosaurs that would have live here eons ago.

Just outside of Vernal, UT is:
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It is about 6 miles north of Hwy 40 and we spent about an hour there but could have stayed longer and taken a ranger tour.
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They have enclosed a section of mountain that has fossils embedded in the rock/soil.
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Grand Lake, CO
We decided to stay in Grand Lake 1 night and drive the Trail Ridge road to Estes Park for 1 night. Grand Lake is a neat little town, you can walk the main streets in a hour or so.
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We stayed here, most of the lodging seemed to be mon & pop type; did not notice a national chain.
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A small city park in GL, just off of the main street.

Trail Ridge Road and RMNP
We left GL and made several stops on the way to the Alpine Visitor Center.
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In the valley we took a 1/2 mile walk to the Holzwarth Historical site, crossed this river, which may be the Colorado River.
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One of the buildings at the historical site.

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On the way to the Alpine Visitor Center we stopped at an overlook to view the valley where the river and historical site are. The Holzwarth is inside the trees on the right in about the middle of the picture.

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Made it to the Alpine Visitor Center and
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walked up these steps to the summit at 12,000 feet.
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It was windy, a little cold and not much oxygen up there.
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A view from the summit.

East side of RMNP
We stopped at more overlooks on the way down to Estes Park and then stopped at the visitor center at the east entrance to RMNP and got some recommendations from the ranger.

That afternoon we walked around Lilly Lake and Bear Lake and made plans to come and hike to Nymph, Dream and maybe Emerald lakes the next morning. The ranger said if we got to Bear Lake by 8:00 we should find a parking space, otherwise we would probably have to take the park-n-ride shuttle. We got a parking spot even after stopping by Cinnamon's Bakery which didn't open until 7:30.
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Map of the Bear Lake area; it is not that far to the other lakes but they are all at higher elevations.

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List of lakes and elevation change posted at the ranger office.

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Bear Lake

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Nymph Lake, they are really more like ponds.

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Dream Lake.

We did not make it to Emerald Lake, the SO decided that was a lake too far, and she later regretted that decision.

Estes Park is much larger than Grand Lake but we did not do anything there expect sleep and eat at two diners. The food was good.

We left EP and drove to the Denver area for the meeting I was attending. After that we had planned to so to Santa Fe for 1 night, then on to LA to visit family. But changed the plans because of the hurricane and just headed back to NC.
This post was edited on 10/18/19 at 8:05 am
Posted by nctiger71
North Carolina
Member since Oct 2017
1327 posts
Posted on 10/3/19 at 8:28 am to
Food, Wildlife (as in animals), and misc photos.

Food:
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The best place we ate, by far, was a place called Rain in Abingdon, VA.; it was also the most $. Abingdon is on I-81 about 20 miles north of the TN line. SO had crab cakes, I had a steak, and she said they were the best she ever had. Of course she had two glasses of wine too.

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SO had stuffed shrimp at Montana's Rib and Chop House in Billings and it was very good, shrimp were cooked just right. Waitress was great.

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A friend recommended La Cueva, on E. Colfax Ave in Aurora for Mexican food and it was better than your average place. [/url][/img]

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Also had a really good lunch at the Log Cabin Café in Silver Gate, MT just outside of the NE entrance to Yellowstone.
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I had a ham & cheese sandwich which came with chili and she had a salmon wrap. It was way more food then we could eat but it would be our last good meal until we went to the town of West Yellowstone for lunch a few days later.

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The best meal we had in Yellowstone was the charcuterie plate at the bar in the hotel. The restaurant was booked until about 9:30 and we didn't want to eat that late.

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We learned about Cinnamon's Bakery in Estes Park from the Travel Board so naturally we had to got there. We were waiting when they opened and there were only a few folks in front of us but some regulars said the line is out to the road sometimes; about 30 yards I would guess.
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We were headed to RMNP to hike so we got two cinnamon rolls and a pecan roll. Very good.


BBQ
I like to check out BBQ places when we travel. In Kansas City we stopped at Joe's on the way and at Arthur Bryant's when we were coming home.
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We ordered a lot of food but we were not just getting lunch, we were sampling and we had leftovers in the hotel that night.
Ribs were good, brisket was ok but I'm not a fan of the thin slice and did not care for their chicken nor their potato salad. The brisket was better as a leftover with their spicy bbq sauce.
They open at 11:00, we got there ~ 11:30 and it was already very crowded. Some folks had obviously come there directly from the airport; got out of a taxi with a roller suitcase.

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At Arthur Bryant's she got the burnt ends sandwich w/ sauce (I think it would have been better w/o the sauce) & I got the brisket sandwich. It was good but again it was thinly sliced. She went to the restroom after eating, it was not very clean, and if she would have gone there before eating I would have dined alone.

Animal photos:

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Saw this fawn as we were driving on Iron Mt. Road to Mt. Rushmore for the evening lighting ceremony.
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He was grazing next to the Lake Yellowstone Hotel; I was going to the convenience store ~ 1/2 mile away from the hotel and he was in my path as I came around the corner.
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This is in Yellowstone near the Hayden Valley. I'm not sure what this ranger was doing, directing traffic I guess. We drove by and cars in the left lane were stopped. The bison, especially the old males, would frequently stand or walk in the road.
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A woodchuck, he/she was sitting next to the path to the Upper Falls at Yellowstone Grand Canyon.
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Coyote on the hunt in Lamar Valley.

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We missed seeing a grizzly bear eating a bison carcass, a pack of wolves and some big horn sheep from this spot on the side of the road in the Lamar Valley. There was a large crowd on the side of the road looking at this hill side. By the time we got parked he had left and someone told us about the bear and the other animals he had seen earlier that morning from that spot. We had been on a remote side road thinking we might see a bear there. Bad choice.

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The wildest animal of them all.

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Sundown at our last night in Colorado before we headed home early due to Hurricane Dorian, which was a non-event in NC unless you were on the OBX.


This post was edited on 10/6/19 at 10:04 pm
Posted by HoustonGumbeauxGuy
Member since Jul 2011
29657 posts
Posted on 10/3/19 at 8:32 am to

Posted by Aubie Spr96
lolwut?
Member since Dec 2009
41201 posts
Posted on 10/3/19 at 8:55 am to
Awesome. I assume yall rented a car to do this?
Posted by OldHickory
New Orleans
Member since Apr 2012
10602 posts
Posted on 10/3/19 at 10:06 am to
Looks like a great trip. I’m from NC and always love going out west because of the different landscapes and scenery.

Time don’t move too fast in Rapid City, South Dakota.
Posted by nctiger71
North Carolina
Member since Oct 2017
1327 posts
Posted on 10/6/19 at 10:17 pm to
quote:

I assume yall rented a car to do this?


No, we debated whether to fly or rent a car but for various reasons decided to drive our 2005 Toyota Avalon w/ almost 200,000 miles on it. We did not have any problems but I probably would not do that again. It is a long way between ranch houses out there and cell service might not be good.

I would like to wait and buy a car that drives itself but it does not seem like that is happening anytime soon.
This post was edited on 10/6/19 at 10:24 pm
Posted by nctiger71
North Carolina
Member since Oct 2017
1327 posts
Posted on 10/6/19 at 10:22 pm to
quote:

love going out west because of the different landscapes and scenery.


Yeah, neither words, not pictures, can adequately describe it. I can not believe we never took a trip there. Well, my wife has been there but she was about 10 and doesn't remember much about it. That was decades ago.

Plan to go back though. I hear Glacier National Park is a must see.
Posted by Hogwall Jackson
Denver
Member since Feb 2013
5057 posts
Posted on 10/6/19 at 11:08 pm to
The lakes further up the trail from Nymph have some amazing scenery. They are he best parks of the hike. Stinks you turned around!

Not sure if the pic is working so here is a LINK
This post was edited on 10/6/19 at 11:09 pm
Posted by nctiger71
North Carolina
Member since Oct 2017
1327 posts
Posted on 10/8/19 at 9:55 am to
quote:

The lakes further up the trail from Nymph have some amazing scenery. They are he best parks of the hike. Stinks you turned around!


Thanks, but the link did not work.

She regretted not continuing and she really will hate it when I tell her what we missed. Next time I guess. We did research before we went and it was a great trip but there is nothing like first hand knowledge to optimize the experience.

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