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big bend in two weeks- review page 2

Posted on 9/20/20 at 5:28 pm
Posted by cgrand
HAMMOND
Member since Oct 2009
38819 posts
Posted on 9/20/20 at 5:28 pm
going El Paso to Marfa to Terlingua to the park to alpine and back to El Paso for the flight home, 9/30- 10/7.

I’ve got backcountry camping booked for fri night (Chisos Mtn Loop) and otherwise we have a cabin in Terlingua for park time (the lodge is still closed). We will take the scenic route from Marfa to Terlingua along the river. On Sunday I have a 1/2 day float trip on the river, kayaks I think.

never been there, if anyone has must see/must do’s lay them on me. We are really looking forward to some solitude and a change in perspective
This post was edited on 10/12/20 at 10:02 am
Posted by McVick
Member since Jan 2011
4467 posts
Posted on 9/20/20 at 5:48 pm to
After a long day go soak in the hot spring.
LINK

Edit- bummer it looks like the road and area is closed due to COVID-19.
This post was edited on 9/20/20 at 5:51 pm
Posted by onthebay
Charleston
Member since Aug 2020
190 posts
Posted on 9/20/20 at 6:00 pm to
I’m jealous.
That’s one of my favorite places in the country. I’ve gone on hikes there and not seen or heard another person for three days.
I don’t know it well enough to recommend a lot, but the South Rim trail is my favorite. I’ve been in January, February, and September (don’t do that - damn near killed me) when I lived in San Antonio. I have heard the Holidays are the busiest times, but I think that’s relative.
Being from South Carolina, it’s hard to believe there are places like that. It’s a fantastic place.
Posted by cgrand
HAMMOND
Member since Oct 2009
38819 posts
Posted on 9/20/20 at 6:01 pm to
yeah I know we are hoping they lift the rest of the restrictions before we get there. We got booted out of the lodge but most stuff is open now.

there was a point up until a couple weeks ago that everything was closed. Fingers crossed
Posted by Zappas Stache
Utility Muffin Research Kitchen
Member since Apr 2009
38708 posts
Posted on 9/20/20 at 7:11 pm to
I think most stuff is still closed in marfa. If Harry's Tenija bar in Alpine is open, go around 3-4pm when the locals are there for happy hour. Some sit outside and play their guitars. On river road in Big Bend State park is a slot canyon called Closed Canyon. You will be driving past it and it only takes 30 minutes to hike it and it's free. There is also an old fort just outside of Presidio that's worth checking out.

I'll be down there at Thanksgiving and am hoping more stuff is open by then including chinati hot springs.
This post was edited on 9/20/20 at 7:18 pm
Posted by crazyLSUstudent
391 miles away from Tiger Stadium
Member since Mar 2012
5520 posts
Posted on 9/21/20 at 6:49 am to
You should check out the Davis Mountains and the park over there. Also, maybe check out the McDonald Observatory not sure if it is open though. They do a Star Party there where they setup some high powered telescopes on different celestial bodies and talk about them
Posted by Zappas Stache
Utility Muffin Research Kitchen
Member since Apr 2009
38708 posts
Posted on 9/21/20 at 2:48 pm to
quote:

Also, maybe check out the McDonald Observatory not sure if it is open though.


Looks like it just opened back up but almost all star party dates are sold out through the end of november. Even in normal times, you have to book the star party way in advance.
Posted by cgrand
HAMMOND
Member since Oct 2009
38819 posts
Posted on 9/21/20 at 3:38 pm to
yeah I was hoping to get in but it was all booked even when I planned this originally back in feb. we were supposed to be at LOCKN this week but they cancelled so this is a back-up trip

I’m trying to contact Chinati to see if they are open, no answer thus far.

thanks all
Posted by Zappas Stache
Utility Muffin Research Kitchen
Member since Apr 2009
38708 posts
Posted on 9/21/20 at 5:55 pm to
quote:

I’m trying to contact Chinati to see if they are open, no answer thus far.



The hot springs? I'm interested too. Their web site doesn't say they're closed but there is no way to book a room so I suspect they are closed. Chinati is also the name of the Art organization that owns and gives tours of the artist Donald Judd's stuff. But I just read they are not doing guided tours but you can walk around the grounds. Donald Judd is why I started going to Marfa over 20 years ago when it was just a dusty, depressed west texas town with nothing going on. Judd moved out there from NYC back in the 70's. But if you aren't into minimalist art, you probably won't care for it. You could drive out to the Prada Store art installation in Valentine which is about a 30 minute drive from Marfa.
Posted by cgrand
HAMMOND
Member since Oct 2009
38819 posts
Posted on 9/21/20 at 11:43 pm to
yeah the hot springs
if they are open I’d like to stay the 1st nite there on the way to Terlingua then catch Marfa on the last nite

all you can do is leave a voice mail so I guess they are closed
Posted by BRich
Old Metairie
Member since Aug 2017
2224 posts
Posted on 9/22/20 at 11:14 am to
quote:

We will take the scenic route from Marfa to Terlingua along the river.


Did that in November 1996 in my little Mazda sports car. Had a blast. Lots of neat little turnouts and stopping places along the way.

There was a fake movie town somewhere along the route, but I think it is down to one building now.

In Marfa, I stayed at the Hotel Paisano, where all the actors and crew from the movie Giant stayed. Probably worth a look around even if you are not staying there; it's a neat old place.

Have fun!
Posted by Crow Pie
Neuro ICU - Tulane Med Center
Member since Feb 2010
25317 posts
Posted on 9/22/20 at 1:16 pm to
Big Bend is on my list and has been for years but it just seems so difficult to get to compared to other spots on my list*. Too far to drive and too close to fly AND then drive 1/2 a day. Accommodation's also seem sparse at best.

What is the best way to see this place?
Rent an RV in San Antonio , Fly to El Paso or San Antonio and rent a car?? Help!!!

*list is getting small so I have to figure Big Bend out!
This post was edited on 9/22/20 at 1:17 pm
Posted by Zappas Stache
Utility Muffin Research Kitchen
Member since Apr 2009
38708 posts
Posted on 9/22/20 at 1:28 pm to
quote:

yeah the hot springs


I emailed Chinati Hot Springs yesterday and just received this message back. Looks like they are open!


quote:

Yes we are taking reservations. You can call 432-229-4165 and Rene can help you, I am currently out of town
Dianna

Posted by cgrand
HAMMOND
Member since Oct 2009
38819 posts
Posted on 9/22/20 at 6:03 pm to
quote:

What is the best way to see this place? Rent an RV in San Antonio , Fly to El Paso or San Antonio and rent a car?? Help!!!

we are flying MSY>ELP and renting a jeep at the airport. its 3HRS to marfa from there, then a straight shot to terlingua if you take the highway or a 5hr drive if you take the river. SW flight is dirt cheap

as noted in the OP we are spending nights in marfa, terlingua, alpine

This post was edited on 9/22/20 at 6:09 pm
Posted by TommyCheeseballs
Milwaukee WI
Member since Jan 2007
8363 posts
Posted on 9/23/20 at 1:22 pm to
I was in the area last year. I flew from MKE to ABQ the Saturday before Thanksgiving. Picked up my rental car and went and got some tacos at El Paisa


Then I drove by the Breaking Bad house . The owner was outside and looked to be in a foul mood so I just did a quick fly by.



I drove east towards Clovis NM where my buddy lives and where I stayed the first couple nights, stopping in Cedar Crest NM for a great burger at Burger Boy.



I stopped in Fort Sumner NM at Billy the Kid’s grave



I got to Clovis where my buddy lives. Not a whole lot going on there but it was fun. Had a nice breakfast at Don Maria’s. The Carne Adovada is a New Mexico specialty



On Monday headed south to the Big Bend area stopping in Portales for tacos at La Paz





I got to my lodging in Big Bend in the afternoon which was a small house I found on Air BnB called Greasewood Grocery. The owners live nearby and own a couple businesses in the area. It’s about 60 miles south of Alpine and 25 miles north of the Big Bend National Park entrance. It was cloudy the entire time I was there so I didn’t get to experience the abundance of stars which was disappointing.



Here are some photos I took during the week. The road from Presidio to Terlingua is really awesome. I also did a couple fairly easy hikes, Santa Elena Canyon and Boquillas Canyon.




Big Bend Ranch State Park




Boquillas Canyon


Terlingua Ghost Town


Santa Elena Canyon


Big Bend Ranch State Park


Terlingua



DB’s Rustic Iron BBQ






Target Marathon




Prada Marfa


I’ve got a few more to share , I’ll continue in another post.
Posted by Zappas Stache
Utility Muffin Research Kitchen
Member since Apr 2009
38708 posts
Posted on 9/23/20 at 3:33 pm to
quote:

renting a jeep at the airport. its 3HRS to marfa from there, then a straight shot to terlingua if you take the highway or a 5hr drive if you take the river.


I see you are going from Marfa to Ruidosa so I assume you are driving through Pinto Canyon. It really is a spectacular drive but very slow going on a gravel road through the Chisos Mountains most of the way.
Posted by cgrand
HAMMOND
Member since Oct 2009
38819 posts
Posted on 9/23/20 at 3:55 pm to
quote:

I see you are going from Marfa to Ruidosa so I assume you are driving through Pinto Canyon. It really is a spectacular drive but very slow going on a gravel road through the Chisos Mountains most of the way.

how slow?
i'll make the call depending on what time we get going out of marfa, whether we go pinto canyon rd or 67 to the river. i did get thru to chinati hot springs, they are booked the only night we could have stayed there, so i dont need to go all the way to ruidosa if it adds too much time to the drive to terlingua

thx for all the info
Posted by cgrand
HAMMOND
Member since Oct 2009
38819 posts
Posted on 9/23/20 at 3:58 pm to
quote:

I’ve got a few more to share , I’ll continue in another post.

please do
i'm getting pretty fired up for the trip

the only bummer is that backcountry camping is still closed (the plan is a two day south rim hike). they are saying maybe it will open maybe not. also the road to the langford hot springs is still closed...
Posted by Zappas Stache
Utility Muffin Research Kitchen
Member since Apr 2009
38708 posts
Posted on 9/23/20 at 4:03 pm to
quote:

so i dont need to go all the way to ruidosa if it adds too much time to the drive to terlingua


It would add about 2 1/2 to 3 hours. Here is a nice vid someone took of the Pinto canyon Drive. LINK

ETA: Stop for lunch at the Oasis in Presidio. Its a hole-in-the-wall but maybe the best enchiladas w/ red sauce Ive ever had. The more charming restaurant in Presidio is El Patio which is good too but not Oasis good.
This post was edited on 9/23/20 at 4:12 pm
Posted by cgrand
HAMMOND
Member since Oct 2009
38819 posts
Posted on 9/23/20 at 4:29 pm to
quote:

Zappas Stache

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