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Started By
Message
re: New construction - run coax?
Posted on 2/12/19 at 8:35 am to ManOnDaRun
Posted on 2/12/19 at 8:35 am to ManOnDaRun
Yes, you can run HDMI over CAT6. For 4K you'll probbly need to run it over two CAT6 but Tigerwise can answer that.
A balun is a device that extends HDMI over CAT6 allowing for greater distance HDMI runs. You're going to want good baluns and it is imperative that you set them up correctly or they will burn up. You'll need a pair of baluns for each HDMI run you want to extend. A send and receive.
In a video distribution system multiple signals can be sent through the CAT6. The control system would switch between which sources are chosen and then send the signal to the TV for the appropriate source through a local box. It all depends on what level of control you desire and what sources you want available to the display.
Be forewarned, systems like the one I described cost $$$$$. You can do it for less but you'll get less control.
If the TV is just for cable or satellite and you're using the wifi in a smart TV for things like Netflix, Prime, etc. you'll just need to extend HDMI over CAT6 so that the cable box or satellite box doesn't need to be local. You'll still need a way to control that remote box though. An IR extender like one made by Xantech makes this possible. It eats up one of the CAT6 cables you run behind the TV.
I stick with the cabling portion of these projects now. Tigerwise can go more in depth if you want more info. He's more current than I on current control systems and extenders.
A balun is a device that extends HDMI over CAT6 allowing for greater distance HDMI runs. You're going to want good baluns and it is imperative that you set them up correctly or they will burn up. You'll need a pair of baluns for each HDMI run you want to extend. A send and receive.
In a video distribution system multiple signals can be sent through the CAT6. The control system would switch between which sources are chosen and then send the signal to the TV for the appropriate source through a local box. It all depends on what level of control you desire and what sources you want available to the display.
Be forewarned, systems like the one I described cost $$$$$. You can do it for less but you'll get less control.
If the TV is just for cable or satellite and you're using the wifi in a smart TV for things like Netflix, Prime, etc. you'll just need to extend HDMI over CAT6 so that the cable box or satellite box doesn't need to be local. You'll still need a way to control that remote box though. An IR extender like one made by Xantech makes this possible. It eats up one of the CAT6 cables you run behind the TV.
I stick with the cabling portion of these projects now. Tigerwise can go more in depth if you want more info. He's more current than I on current control systems and extenders.
This post was edited on 2/12/19 at 8:36 am
1
Posted on 2/12/19 at 8:47 am to VABuckeye
Ah. Thank you for the help. That definitely clears a few things up. I think I would only need to have about 7 of those. 2 TVs in the den, 2 outside, 2 in the game room, and one in the master. Any baluns you recommend?
So much to think about it. I literally was just trying to save a few bucks over having someone else run the cables, but it sounds like I might have to spend all of that back.
So much to think about it. I literally was just trying to save a few bucks over having someone else run the cables, but it sounds like I might have to spend all of that back.
Posted on 2/12/19 at 9:32 am to ManOnDaRun
I've always liked the Gefen extenders but I haven't had to install them in quite a while. You can get them for much cheaper but you do get what you pay for.
Posted on 2/12/19 at 10:28 am to cdl2006
quote:
What size would you recommend? From what I have read, you can only drill a hole with a diameter of 40% of the board if it’s a load bearing wall. This ends up being 1” tubing. I was thinking of running two 1” tubes behind each tv.
You are correct but this is not the place where people follow building or safety codes.
Posted on 2/12/19 at 10:29 am to ManOnDaRun
Sorry for throwing you for a loop. I assumed some of the cat cable was being used for HDMI to your TVs. But you should think about how you are going to do that now with the walls open.
Posted on 2/12/19 at 10:47 am to notsince98
quote:
You are correct but this is not the place where people follow building or safety codes.
If it's under construction it's going to have to pass inspections. May as well do it right. I overdo my prewires. Everything is perfect. My inspectors walk in, look, say "this guy knows what the frick he's doing" and they walk out and I pass. No delays because of a fail and no other subs backcharging or doing change orders because my guys couldn't follow code and drill proper sized holes. FWIW.
Posted on 2/13/19 at 8:06 am to VABuckeye
quote:
If it's under construction it's going to have to pass inspections. May as well do it right. I overdo my prewires. Everything is perfect. My inspectors walk in, look, say "this guy knows what the frick he's doing" and they walk out and I pass. No delays because of a fail and no other subs backcharging or doing change orders because my guys couldn't follow code and drill proper sized holes. FWIW.
I would really doubt the typical inspector knows the hole size limitation when cutting into load bearing walls or joists. I haven't met one yet that does and that is from experience in multiple states. Engineers are just about the only ones I know that know the code that well and follow it that well.
Posted on 2/13/19 at 8:13 am to notsince98
The superintendants on my job sites damned well do and they're who I have to please.
ETA: I don't know who's building his house and what the inspector is like so I'm going to make sure that my advice is to drill the holes to follow code.
ETA: I don't know who's building his house and what the inspector is like so I'm going to make sure that my advice is to drill the holes to follow code.
This post was edited on 2/13/19 at 8:58 am
Posted on 2/13/19 at 10:53 am to ManOnDaRun
Whatever you do, don't run your cable naked through the walls. Install these corrugated low voltage cable conduits while you're at it and make sure you use low voltage gang boxes instead of bare faceplates (I think it might be code to do that gang box thing anyway). As technology changes, it makes it a simple matter to upgrade. You swap out the faceplate to get the new connector style you want, pull the old cable, and slide new cable through the conduit. Easy peasy.
ETA: Yikes. Why is width=500 not automatically added to picture links if there's not already a width called out?
ETA: Yikes. Why is width=500 not automatically added to picture links if there's not already a width called out?
This post was edited on 2/13/19 at 10:55 am
Posted on 2/13/19 at 11:02 am to TigerstuckinMS
Low voltage rings are fine.
Things to remember when running wires to comply with code and avoid interference.
1) Do not run your cables with electrical. If you must take a parallel path try to maintain at least 1' distance.
2) Cross electrical at 90 degrees.
3) Pick a common path (chase) and branch out to locations at 90 degree angles. Never run diagonally across a room.
4) Always support your wires from above before they go through a top plate and into a stud bay.
5) Staple your cables within 8" of low voltage rings and anytime you drill through a stud and then go up or down that stud to get to the low voltage ring.
6) Do NOT use cable staples that use a staple gun. They can damage the wire. Use tack on staples like these.
7) Avoid using zip ties. Cinching them down too tight can damage category cable.
8) Run your cables after the electricians and HVAC guys are finished. If you don't they WILL frick up your runs and either damage your cabling or take a path that makes you fail your inspection.
9) Use safety plates in any locations where you drilled a hole towards the front of the stud. Always try to drill your holes dead center in the stud to protect the cables from drywall guys.
Things to remember when running wires to comply with code and avoid interference.
1) Do not run your cables with electrical. If you must take a parallel path try to maintain at least 1' distance.
2) Cross electrical at 90 degrees.
3) Pick a common path (chase) and branch out to locations at 90 degree angles. Never run diagonally across a room.
4) Always support your wires from above before they go through a top plate and into a stud bay.
5) Staple your cables within 8" of low voltage rings and anytime you drill through a stud and then go up or down that stud to get to the low voltage ring.
6) Do NOT use cable staples that use a staple gun. They can damage the wire. Use tack on staples like these.
7) Avoid using zip ties. Cinching them down too tight can damage category cable.
8) Run your cables after the electricians and HVAC guys are finished. If you don't they WILL frick up your runs and either damage your cabling or take a path that makes you fail your inspection.
9) Use safety plates in any locations where you drilled a hole towards the front of the stud. Always try to drill your holes dead center in the stud to protect the cables from drywall guys.
This post was edited on 2/13/19 at 11:06 am
Posted on 2/13/19 at 12:51 pm to VABuckeye
Fantastic tips, VABuckeye. Appreciate all the help. This appears to be a little more difficult than I was initially intending, but hopefully will save me quite a few bucks.
Posted on 2/13/19 at 12:56 pm to ManOnDaRun
I'm a perfectionist on my prewires. I want to spend as little time on a jobsite with inspectors as possible. Glad to pass along the tips. 
Posted on 2/13/19 at 1:19 pm to TigerstuckinMS
TigerstuckinMS - do you know of a good place to get the conduit? I am seeing about $60-$70 for 100 feet or so, which seems expensive. I was thinking that I may just buy PVC as it's pretty cheap, but am open to any ideas.
Posted on 2/13/19 at 1:58 pm to ManOnDaRun
PVC is fine. The only place you might need smurf is for the run where services enter your house but it could be as simple as a stub out. Use Quick Flash anywhere you have an exterior penetration. Just buy Tyvek to tape it on.
Posted on 2/13/19 at 2:22 pm to ManOnDaRun
Honestly talk to your low voltage guy (if only through the builder) and do as much as you can that is reasonable.
It's pennies on the dollar compared to the trouble to retrofit anything into existing walls.
It's pennies on the dollar compared to the trouble to retrofit anything into existing walls.
Posted on 2/13/19 at 3:09 pm to Ace Midnight
Everyone thinks they'll save money until they realize what's involved.
ETA: Or until the walls are closed in and they install gear and find that wires got damaged by drywallers and there's an annoying 60 cycle hum bar on the TV because the coax was run with electrical.
ETA: Or until the walls are closed in and they install gear and find that wires got damaged by drywallers and there's an annoying 60 cycle hum bar on the TV because the coax was run with electrical.
This post was edited on 2/13/19 at 3:11 pm
Posted on 2/13/19 at 3:11 pm to VABuckeye
quote:
The only place you might need smurf is for the run where services enter your house but it could be as simple as a stub out.
What do you recommend quantity and size wise here? I was thinking of running a couple of 1” tubes out for future use.
Posted on 2/13/19 at 3:33 pm to cdl2006
1" is fine. We just run 2 coax and 2 CAT6 to the garage and put them in a ring. Then we run a short smurf tube and do the penetration. Around here it's going to be a single fiber coming into the house so a 3/4" smurf is fine for that application.
Posted on 2/13/19 at 3:50 pm to VABuckeye
I gave up thinking about running lines and paid someone. Pockets are light but at least it's something I don't have to worry about now.
Posted on 2/13/19 at 5:45 pm to ManOnDaRun
quote:
TigerstuckinMS - do you know of a good place to get the conduit? I am seeing about $60-$70 for 100 feet or so, which seems expensive. I was thinking that I may just buy PVC as it's pretty cheap, but am open to any ideas.
Any building supply house should have it. Maybe an actual local supplier that supplies contractors will have it cheaper than a big box store? If cost is an issue, though, other types of conduit/piping work just fine, as long as it meets code. The important part I was trying to get across was to have some way to be able to easily pull out old cable and run new cable to your outlets and swap faceplates as technology changes so you can future proof your house as much as possible.
This post was edited on 2/13/19 at 5:47 pm
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