Starting reloading.

I have a nice set of digital calipers. Appreciate the feedback

I’ve reloaded a couple of times with a friend. That’s why I was looking at those 2 kits bc besides the Lyman they look like they have just enough stuff not to be a waste. I’ve read good things about the Lyman tumbler, turret press, and digital powder dispenser.

300 wm, 308, 6.5grendel

Welcome to the world of hand loading, Success. Disclaimer, I have no experience w/ either Lyman or Hornady presses. I have a few Hornady dies, but no Lyman dies. In my experience, I've been pleased w/ the performance of all the die makers, although Redding's are the best looking. Having said that, I avoid buying Hornady dies. Their depriming pin is an integral part of the bullet seating stem assembly. Therefore, if one breaks the depriming pin, one has to replace the entire stem assembly. All other dies use a seperate pin that's easy and cheap to replace. Not so w/ Hornady. Don't ask how I learned that lesson.

I bought a Lee Classic Turret Press when I started hand loading 35 years ago. It's the only press I have. Using a powder charger, one can load rounds at a fairly high rate, but not like a progressive press. Now days I use it exclusively as a single stage press. I now use a fancier powder charger that's a more accurate than the Lee powder charger. Althouth Lee products are less expensive than most, I've had no problem getting accurate loads w/ Lee equipment. The accuracy of your loads will be determined by many things other than your press (unless you somehow get a really bad press). I use my balance beam scale of 35 years age as I don't have a nice electronic scale. I load high volume only for my prairie dog hunting loads. I use the powder charger then, checking every 5-10 rounds w/ the scale. Deer hunting loads are loaded w/ the balance beam as I only load 10-15 rounds/yr for each deer gun. If you're loading precision rifle loads only, not all powder chargers are satisfactorily accurate. Ill be happy to answer any questions you might have.

I have a lot more handloading recommendations in this thread I'll link instead of posting as it's a long read.

Good luck and keep us updated. BTW, be sure to also buy a couple good hand loading manuals.

What caliber?

I've been loading s good bit of 45 colt with a lee loader (the kind you bang with a hammer). All I have is a lee loader, a lee safety measure, a set of dippers, and bullet parts. It's not the fastest. It is fun, enjoyable, and I've been making some good consistent ammo.

The main thing you need is manuals. Get a good manual that appeals to you and then get the caliber-specific manual ($8 or so) for the calibers you will load.

And get some trail boss powder. That shite is FUN and very safe to load, double charges wont fit in any case.

My dad has done it his whole life for any rifle imaginable. He recomended the RCBS Rockchucker kit, got it from the Amazon. It comes with a beam scale. I bought a hand deprimer and good digital micrometer. I use redding master hunter dies with micrometer bullet seating gauge. For PRS, may want to look at a concentricity gauge, your call. Youll need a chronograph. I was using the bayonet style but recently upgraded to Labradar doppler for accuracy & convenience. The RCBS kit comes with nosler's latest manual, but been doing a lot of research on berger and hogdons websites. That's important to research and document, cross check powder loads & stated velocities. Both of those websites have good articles. Also have a case prep machine on my wish list this year (hint hint). Also bought the Lyman manual and Ken Waters Pet Loads

Reloading for 30 Nosler, 22-250, 243.

ETA with links to stuff. Now that I've gotten into it, I'm researching and reading way more than I thought I ever would about powders, bullets, cartridge lengths, "jump", etc. When I started, I thought it was gonna be like reading a recipe and following it. And if I didnt like the outcome, go find a different one. It can be, but if your rifle and that cartridge has extreme precision capability, you want to find every tweak you can to squeeze all the accuracy available out of it.

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There is a guy on YouTube (Sniper 101 series) that shoots extreme long distance, uses precision rifles with top of the line scopes and loads his ammunition using Lee equipment.

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I can shoot guns without top of line scopes and can still hit what im shooting at. Does a top of the line scope help? Sure it does.

A cheap machine is a cheap machine. Ive used a lee 4 hole turret press for years to load rifle ammo. I literally have to check every round because it will seat every bullet differently and the oal and base to ogive length will be all over the place. Luckily I have a micrometer seater and its a quick and easy adjustment most of the time.

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If you are shooting competitive BR or F class I imagine you would try any equipment to gain an edge

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Im not wasting my time loading shitty ammo, just to get the equivalent of bulk federal ammo I could buy. Thats just me though.

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its the nut behind the trigger.

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Agreed.

Success, You'll need to settle on your handled priorities, determine what it is you want to do and decide how much you want to spend. One can make VERY accurate ammo w/o buying all top end components. This is a highyl useful book for anyone wanting to load really accurate ammo to read. Sadly, it looks like it's out of print, but maybe you can find one. If not, let me know and I'll see if I can make a copy of mine. Here's some additional useful info from Sinclair. They're quality folks w/ quality equipment, by the way:
10 Steps to Precision Handloads
Load Development for Long Range Hunting and Shooting

For years I thought all my guns were "precision rifles" (or handguns) only to find out many years later they weren't because they didn't have a modular chassis stock, adjustable comb, adjustable butt stock, a large capacity removable magazine, pistol grip and threaded or ported barrel. Mine were also 1/2 the price of actual "precision rifles." My first "precision rifle" was a Winchester Model 70 in 270 Win w/ a wooden stock. I later got a synthetic stock. I put a 2-7X Leopold scope in Weaver rings on it. My handholds using Lee dies and various factory bullets shot 3/4" at 100 yards. I later retired it when I started hunting only w/ handguns. Likewise, I thought they were also precision guns, although they lack all the modern features.

If I were you, I'd buy the basic equipment, load some ammo (SAFELY), start shooting and learn the hobby. Then shoot some more. Shooting more by itself will improve your accuracy. Your loading will probably evolve, and as it does, you'll acquire additional equipment. If you use Redding dies w/ neck bushings and use benchrest loading techniques you'll end up w/ the most accurate loads you can get. But you can still get very accurate loads using basic equipment and paying attention to the details.

Keep us updated.

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One can make VERY accurate ammo w/o buying all top end components

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The only thing I mentioned that might even be considered top end in the reloading world are the dies. Everything else is barely scratching the surface. Just my experience you from a kit to upgrading over time.

The kit was a waste of time and money for me.

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For years I thought all my guns were "precision rifles" (or handguns) only to find out many years later they weren't because they didn't have a modular chassis stock, adjustable comb, adjustable butt stock, a large capacity removable magazine, pistol grip and threaded or ported barrel. Mine were also 1/2 the price of actual "precision rifles." My first "precision rifle" was a Winchester Model 70 in 270 Win w/ a wooden stock. I later got a synthetic stock. I put a 2-7X Leopold scope in Weaver rings on it. My handholds using Lee dies and various factory bullets shot 3/4" at 100 yards. I later retired it when I started hunting only w/ handguns. Likewise, I thought they were also precision guns, although they lack all the modern features.

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Lol. Whatever man