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Started By
Message
re: Picked this up for free tonight. 1959-1961S&W Model 10 .38 Special w/ 4" Barrel
Posted on 7/5/15 at 5:13 pm to VaBamaMan
Posted on 7/5/15 at 5:13 pm to VaBamaMan
Buffalo Bore makes a very hot but non-plus P load. 158gr hollow point is what you want. It essentially duplicates what was known as the "FBI load," which was an effective round. If you plan on shooting it a lot, look into getting a Tyler T-Grip grip adapter. A T-Grip will look appropriate on a classic gun like this (its what cops used back then).
Posted on 7/5/15 at 6:04 pm to Grebe
quote:
KingRanch
Why do you prefer the Blue to the Nickel? I realize it is probably just a personal preference. I am just curious why.
quote:
158gr hollow point is what you want. It essentially duplicates what was known as the "FBI load," which was an effective round.
Seems kind of expensive, 20 rounds for $28.97. That being said, I know self defense is priceless. Dont know if I feel like fighting with my wife about it. She thinks ammo is ammo, doesnt understand the importance in the higher grain, and the difference in projectile type. With our son on the way she freaks out about extra expenditures, she is stressed about making sure we save enough for when she's out of work.
Just found out there is a place nearby that sells boxes of 50 reloads for around $13.00. Planning on getting a box or two to use when showing my wife how to shoot. Maybe with the savings there she will let me get the others for home defense. Of course, with her lack of knowledge regarding ammo, she will probably think it is just fine to use in all situations.
Posted on 7/5/15 at 6:30 pm to VaBamaMan
Because I have a blued model 10
Posted on 7/5/15 at 6:33 pm to KingRanch
quote:
I would get that removed and reblue, but that's just me.
Wut
Posted on 7/5/15 at 6:57 pm to weagle99
Shut it weagle. That nickel plate doesn't look good to me. I hate nickel plated stuff.
Posted on 7/5/15 at 7:27 pm to KingRanch
quote:
Shut it weagle. That nickel plate doesn't look good to me. I hate nickel plated stuff.
I dont know how you can't admit that is a good looking gun with the nickel. Maybe I should have polished it before posting it. Dadgum thing is so clean, I could shave using it as a mirror.
Surely there is more to you hating that look than,
quote:
Because I have a blued model 10
This post was edited on 7/5/15 at 7:28 pm
Posted on 7/5/15 at 7:29 pm to PolyPusher86
quote:
Take the grips off the gun with a flathead screwdriver, there should be an "N" stamped on the bottom of the grip frame meaning it was factory nickeled. Sometimes there is also an "N" marked on the front of the cylinder by the ejector star.
I will do this when I get done with my homework. Thanks!
Posted on 7/5/15 at 7:56 pm to VaBamaMan
I have that exact same gun. I has the best trigger pull of any gun that I've ever owned. I bought mine in a pawn shop in Tampa about 25 years ago.
Posted on 7/5/15 at 8:02 pm to VaBamaMan
Since some of yall appreciate older family heirlooms, you may like these. My grandparents gave them to me last month for my boy to grow up with. They were my dads in the early 60s, so they survived him and me. Hopefully they will survive him. I love old metal toys. They don't make em like that anymore, not even close.
This is the first 5 rounds I put through the .38. Just wanted to figure out the sights, and see how it did.
First one I put 10 yds behind it, shot right over the top.
The next few I started to figure it out, need to put a few more down range though. Until I buy more ammo I'm not planning on shooting anymore. Only had 12 to start with.
Yes, that is a paper plate, what of it?
Edit: I was standing about 20 feet from the target.
This is the first 5 rounds I put through the .38. Just wanted to figure out the sights, and see how it did.
First one I put 10 yds behind it, shot right over the top.
The next few I started to figure it out, need to put a few more down range though. Until I buy more ammo I'm not planning on shooting anymore. Only had 12 to start with.
Yes, that is a paper plate, what of it?
Edit: I was standing about 20 feet from the target.
This post was edited on 7/5/15 at 8:10 pm
Posted on 7/5/15 at 8:09 pm to VaBamaMan
Ammo lasts like forever.
Nice nice piece. Congratulations
Nice nice piece. Congratulations
Posted on 7/5/15 at 8:10 pm to Tigah in the ATL
quote:
Nice nice piece. Congratulations
Posted on 7/5/15 at 9:22 pm to VaBamaMan
Nice gun, I love S&W revolvers. I also inherited one very similar to yours that was my uncle's service weapon as he was the chaplain of a police dept.
I would agree with you and stay away from the +p rounds. Although not much compares to firing 357 rounds out of it.
I would agree with you and stay away from the +p rounds. Although not much compares to firing 357 rounds out of it.
Posted on 7/5/15 at 9:34 pm to VaBamaMan
Very nice.....I have a 10-7 5 inch pencil barrel stamped Detroit Police. Love that gun. Also have my dads old pre model 10 5 inch pencil barrel.
You can see my nickel one in my awesomely terrible sig
You can see my nickel one in my awesomely terrible sig
Posted on 7/5/15 at 10:02 pm to VaBamaMan
VaBama Man,
Congrats on a fine gun that's also a family heirloom. I'm sure you'll have LOTS of good shooting memories w/ the gun.
Congrats on a fine gun that's also a family heirloom. I'm sure you'll have LOTS of good shooting memories w/ the gun.
Posted on 7/6/15 at 3:38 am to TigerOnThe Hill
Thanks guys. I sincerely appreciate how much ya'll like the gun and its history. I am a little perturbed(not really) at my dad for never talking to me about it. Such a beautiful gun to keep locked up for that long.
I have a few more questions I was hoping you guys could help me with. Maybe I am going overboard, but I am a first time revolver owner, and a first time C&R gun owner. I want to make sure I dot every i, and cross every t in care and maintenance. I want to keep this gun in perfect shape for my son, and teach him how to take care of it for his son.
I took off the grips like PolyPusher86 suggested, and sure enough there it was.
Funny thing is, where the serial number sometimes is under the barrel I found this about 5 minutes later.
Was there the whole time and I just missed it. I even looked there earlier today to see if there was a serial number under there.
Taking off the grips lead me to my questions. The gun is in almost perfect condition, except for under the grips.
Right Side
Right Side
Left Side
That is obviously rust. While I do not think the nickel is chipped, my fingernail definitely catches on every spot. Is there a way to repair this? Maybe there is a way to polish the rust out? I mean, obviously I could completely refinish it....but Lord only knows how much that would cost.
I find it a bit strange that this gun is basically mint everywhere except a couple of spots under the grips. Was it because of the moisture in the wood? Or maybe moisture from a humid southern summer settled under the grips when we were moving and it was in the back of a moving truck? We all know how humid it is in the south in the summer.
Even if I cant polish the rust out, how would ya'll advise polishing nickel? I would like to give this thing one really nice cleaning, and see what it looks like.
Also, after firing it the white marks inside the barrel are gone. Though now, and perhaps more concerning, the rifling grooves are tinged red, a rust color. Is that because of the old ammo?
This is the best pic I could get of coloring in the grooves.
These next 2 are of the view down the barrel. I tried cleaning it with q-tips, but some of these marks do not want to come out. Are the longer marks possibly permanent scratches in the barrel? If they are, chalk it up to another "Old guns always have random niggles." moment. Because it makes no sense that they would be there.
In both of those, and in this next one. Notice the red hue on the front of the cylinder. It really isn't as bad as the last 2 pictures make it look, ftr. It actually isn't even as bad the this next one. I just wanted to show the red hue along with the barrel so you could get an idea of the color along the rifling grooves. I am hoping it is just the copper bleeding through.
And the white marks, any ideas what they were? Were they powder burns? Oxidation? Something else?
I have other questions regarding the serial number, model number, and other identification marks. However, I am going to post on the S&W forum to get those questions answered. It seems like several guys over there love to research S&Ws. Should be a snap to get manufacturing answers.
Seriously, Major Thanks fellas! I owe everyone who has answered/will answer my questions a beer or 5. Consider this a favor IOU. Maybe if we meet up at a Bama-LSU game somehow, I will indulge your imbibing.
I have a few more questions I was hoping you guys could help me with. Maybe I am going overboard, but I am a first time revolver owner, and a first time C&R gun owner. I want to make sure I dot every i, and cross every t in care and maintenance. I want to keep this gun in perfect shape for my son, and teach him how to take care of it for his son.
I took off the grips like PolyPusher86 suggested, and sure enough there it was.
Funny thing is, where the serial number sometimes is under the barrel I found this about 5 minutes later.
Was there the whole time and I just missed it. I even looked there earlier today to see if there was a serial number under there.
Taking off the grips lead me to my questions. The gun is in almost perfect condition, except for under the grips.
Right Side
Right Side
Left Side
That is obviously rust. While I do not think the nickel is chipped, my fingernail definitely catches on every spot. Is there a way to repair this? Maybe there is a way to polish the rust out? I mean, obviously I could completely refinish it....but Lord only knows how much that would cost.
I find it a bit strange that this gun is basically mint everywhere except a couple of spots under the grips. Was it because of the moisture in the wood? Or maybe moisture from a humid southern summer settled under the grips when we were moving and it was in the back of a moving truck? We all know how humid it is in the south in the summer.
Even if I cant polish the rust out, how would ya'll advise polishing nickel? I would like to give this thing one really nice cleaning, and see what it looks like.
Also, after firing it the white marks inside the barrel are gone. Though now, and perhaps more concerning, the rifling grooves are tinged red, a rust color. Is that because of the old ammo?
This is the best pic I could get of coloring in the grooves.
These next 2 are of the view down the barrel. I tried cleaning it with q-tips, but some of these marks do not want to come out. Are the longer marks possibly permanent scratches in the barrel? If they are, chalk it up to another "Old guns always have random niggles." moment. Because it makes no sense that they would be there.
In both of those, and in this next one. Notice the red hue on the front of the cylinder. It really isn't as bad as the last 2 pictures make it look, ftr. It actually isn't even as bad the this next one. I just wanted to show the red hue along with the barrel so you could get an idea of the color along the rifling grooves. I am hoping it is just the copper bleeding through.
And the white marks, any ideas what they were? Were they powder burns? Oxidation? Something else?
I have other questions regarding the serial number, model number, and other identification marks. However, I am going to post on the S&W forum to get those questions answered. It seems like several guys over there love to research S&Ws. Should be a snap to get manufacturing answers.
Seriously, Major Thanks fellas! I owe everyone who has answered/will answer my questions a beer or 5. Consider this a favor IOU. Maybe if we meet up at a Bama-LSU game somehow, I will indulge your imbibing.
Posted on 7/6/15 at 6:18 am to VaBamaMan
The reason they stamped an "N" on the butt of the gun and also on the cylinder was just for the assembly line. Once everything was made, it was sent to the finishing department. Some of the other markings you may find other than the serial are inspectors marks, nothing significant. As far as the rust under the grips, moisture gets under them and can't be removed because if it ever got oiled, never got under them. It's a good habit to remove them once a year and oil underneath. Take a light penetrant oil and a brass wire brush and work that rust away. The brass is a softer metal than carbon steel and will not ruin the finish. Start on the butt and see how it works before you go straight to he nickel part. The coloration on the face of the cylinder is just powder burns and adds character. Take a bore brush with some hoppe's #9 and run it thru the bore a few times. Good luck and here are a few of my S&W's.
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Posted on 7/6/15 at 10:25 am to PolyPusher86
Fine little collection you have there
Posted on 7/6/15 at 3:27 pm to PolyPusher86
quote:
here are a few of my S&W's.
The underlined bolded part implies that is less than half of your S&W revolvers.
Which makes me say
Seriously, that is pretty awesome dude. Hopefully I'll get there one day.
This post was edited on 7/6/15 at 3:29 pm
Posted on 7/6/15 at 5:22 pm to VaBamaMan
(no message)
This post was edited on 7/7/15 at 5:59 am
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