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1
Posted on 10/14/16 at 8:13 am to reds on reds on reds
I'd like to build one. Need to finish my current build though.
Posted on 10/14/16 at 8:31 am to jimbeam
quote:
I'd like to build one. Need to finish my current build though.
Yeah they're awesome. I'd love to have one
Posted on 10/14/16 at 8:35 am to DeoreDX
Intrested to hear how that works out for ya. I had thought about doing something other than a 223/556 for the next build.
Posted on 10/14/16 at 10:51 am to DeoreDX
quote:
Just ordered an Anderson 6.5 Grendel barrel, 308 A2 flash hider, and 6.5 Grendel BCG direct from Anderson for $256 shipped. By far the cheapest way to dip the toes into 6.5 Grendel. It's a mostly Anderson build and I'll have the whole rifle built for less than $630 including all of the shipping and FFL fees. Don't know if it will be a working rifle. Depends on how well it shoots. Right now just planning on running Wolf steel 6.5G through it.
Anderson Lower
Matrix upper + 15" hand guard
Anderson Buffer tube kit + charging handle
Anderson 16" Grendel barrel carbine gas
Anderson 6.5 Grendel Nitride BCG
No name gas block and gas tube
MTF Minimalist stock
PSA Enchanced MOE Nickle LPK
Optics wise Primary Arms has the Voretex Crossfire 4-16x50 AO in sale for $149 right now. Might be a good match for the Grendel. Not sure if I would rather have a recticle with subtentions though. So might go with Primary Arm's own 4-16x44. Haven't decided yet.
Most do go longer with the barrel, but I got a Satern 6.5G barrel in a trade that shoots impressive groups. IIRC at 16" you're about 100-150 fps at the muzzle off from a 20"-24". That all depends on what ammo is being used as well, but the difference wasn't large enough to discourage me.
With an Anderson/Bear Creek/MMC barrel and Wolf steel cased, I wouldn't over think the scope. That's likely going to be a 2-3 MOA setup.
Posted on 10/14/16 at 7:25 pm to jimbeam
quote:
Don't most people go with longer barrels for the Grendel?
If I get 2MOA out of it with quality factory hunting ammo the upper will go to my dad for a working rifle. 16" is enough barrel to kill anything he needs to kill at less than 300 yards. Honestly he probably never takes a shot too much beyond 200. After shoulder and back surgery he can't cycle a bolt like he used too. I think the 6.5G will be perfect for him if it works.
Posted on 10/14/16 at 8:17 pm to DeoreDX
How much of a recoil difference is there between a rifle and carbine length gas system?
Posted on 10/19/16 at 10:10 am to DeoreDX
I'm a dumbass. Didn't order a crush washer for my grendel build because I have a couple in the ole parts drawer. 1/2" crush washer doesn't work with the 5/8" threads on the end of the 6.5 Grendel barrel 
Now I need a crush washer, a magazine, and some ammo.
Now I need a crush washer, a magazine, and some ammo.
Posted on 10/19/16 at 12:18 pm to upgrayedd
quote:
How much of a recoil difference is there between a rifle and carbine length gas system?
There are a lot more variables that go into calculating the recoil of an AR15 (or any gun) than just the gas system and there are varying stages of recoil which produce what you perceive as the "kick". Because of all the variables you wont find a finite answer. And even if there was one, would someone telling you it was 3 newtons less really mean anything to you? Generally speaking though an AR15 with a rifle length gas system will have a softer perceived recoil/"kick" than firing the same round in a carbine length gas gun. However, either could be configured in such a way that would give it less or more perceived recoil/"kick".
Posted on 10/19/16 at 12:29 pm to Propagandalf
Anyone have any preference between the Geissle gas block and the Daniel Defense?
Posted on 10/19/16 at 12:48 pm to Damone
quote:
Anyone have any preference between the Geissle gas block and the Daniel Defense?
If you are talking about a standard low profile gas block (not adjustable) I would just get one of the $20 options from a reputable source. A gas block doesn't have any critical measurements or very tight tolerances, no reason to spend $60+ on one unless its made out of something special or does something special.
Posted on 10/19/16 at 1:19 pm to Propagandalf
If I were to just build different uppers to put on a lower vs getting a few different full rifles would it all just swap out reliably. Like if I did a mix of 223 300 and 6.5 in varying lengths...one buffer fits all? Good idea to incorporate adj gas blocks?
I have 3...err...HAD 3 ARs before the boating accident. Before they went down I was wondering, do I take up more space in the gun closet with full rifles or just register some or all of the lowers and just make different uppers.
I have 3...err...HAD 3 ARs before the boating accident. Before they went down I was wondering, do I take up more space in the gun closet with full rifles or just register some or all of the lowers and just make different uppers.
Posted on 10/19/16 at 1:38 pm to NOLAGT
quote:
one buffer fits all?
I think the rule with buffers is that you want the heaviest buffer that will cycle your lightest loads. I don't see this being a problem for you but Prop should be able to answer that better or more clearly. Also, are you shooting suppressed?
Posted on 10/19/16 at 1:46 pm to ChatRabbit77
quote:
are you shooting suppressed
Yes......one day....in probably a year when my cans clear
I am thinking for that reason adj gas blocks might be a good idea if I go back and forth suppressed or not. Changing out buffers, while not as quick as popping on another upper, its not too hard. Just wondering if this line of thinking is as easy as im thinking.
I have only so much space where my guns are stored so im trying to see what I want to do moving forward in this addiction.
Posted on 10/19/16 at 1:59 pm to NOLAGT
quote:
If I were to just build different uppers to put on a lower vs getting a few different full rifles would it all just swap out reliably. Like if I did a mix of 223 300 and 6.5 in varying lengths...one buffer fits all? Good idea to incorporate adj gas blocks? I have 3...err...HAD 3 ARs before the boating accident. Before they went down I was wondering, do I take up more space in the gun closet with full rifles or just register some or all of the lowers and just make different uppers
This past weekend we went out to shoot and my full auto lowers ran every different upper people put on them. 16"-10.5" barreled uppers, suppressed and unsuppressed in 5.56 and 300BLK both subs and supers. Every upper ate fine, no failures. The full auto doesn't lie. Had there been bolt bounce, BCG moving too fast/slow, etc. a failure would have happened. But that's how I like to keep my rifles, simple and reliable. So, yes it is definitely doable. However, since complete lowers can still be had for like $150 I would just get one for each upper. So much more convenient than always swapping and the more rifles you have the more people you can arm.
Generally, I stray away from adjustable gas blocks, A5/Magpul/Vltor/BCM buffer system gimmicks, tune-able BCGs, pistons, binary triggers, etc. etc. all that dumb shite that complicates a system that was never supposed to be anything but simple. The more variables you introduce into a system, the more things that can go wrong in that system.
This post was edited on 10/19/16 at 2:01 pm
Posted on 10/19/16 at 2:08 pm to NOLAGT
On the topic of buffers..anyone interested on how it affects your rifle should pick up One Of These and spend a day at the range changing things around.
Posted on 10/19/16 at 2:11 pm to Propagandalf
My main drive for it is space I guess. I am about to redo things so I can increase my storage space becasue its currently full...but it will fill again. Just thinking out loud at the moment...
I saw those full auto vids
Do you do 300blk or others?
I saw those full auto vids
Do you do 300blk or others?
This post was edited on 10/19/16 at 2:26 pm
Posted on 10/19/16 at 2:40 pm to Propagandalf
So what are the specs on your auto lowers?
Posted on 10/19/16 at 3:08 pm to Propagandalf
quote:
There are a lot more variables that go into calculating the recoil of an AR15 (or any gun) than just the gas system and there are varying stages of recoil which produce what you perceive as the "kick". Because of all the variables you wont find a finite answer. And even if there was one, would someone telling you it was 3 newtons less really mean anything to you? Generally speaking though an AR15 with a rifle length gas system will have a softer perceived recoil/"kick" than firing the same round in a carbine length gas gun. However, either could be configured in such a way that would give it less or more perceived recoil/"kick".
Gotcha. Just pulled the trigger on one of these yesterday
Posted on 10/22/16 at 4:29 pm to upgrayedd
Anyone have any experience with two piece free float rails from Midwest? Thinking about getting one for the rifle above.
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