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Message
re: Artifical Bait for Mangrove Snapper
Posted on 7/27/26 at 3:06 pm to DownshiftAndFloorIt
Posted on 7/27/26 at 3:06 pm to DownshiftAndFloorIt
We've got super finicky inshore mangroves in the panhandle.
If we can't get them to bite here we downsize hook, leader, and bait.
Applying that logic to an artificial, I suspect that a white marabou crappie jig in 1/8 or 1/16 ounce would do the trick on mangroves
A micro slow pitch jig would probably work pretty well too, but you'd need a specialty rod for one to dance right
If we can't get them to bite here we downsize hook, leader, and bait.
Applying that logic to an artificial, I suspect that a white marabou crappie jig in 1/8 or 1/16 ounce would do the trick on mangroves
A micro slow pitch jig would probably work pretty well too, but you'd need a specialty rod for one to dance right
This post was edited on 7/27/26 at 3:08 pm
Posted on 7/27/26 at 10:58 pm to Riseupfromtherubble
In the bays at Orange beach I’ve caught a few on plastics like matrix shad or marker 54 shrimp but to get mangroves consistently only live bait has worked. I use what are called live cocaho minnows in Louisiana and mud minnows or bull minnows over there- same thing, killifish. Best on light line, no leader, small kahle or circle hook through the lips, maybe a split shot but usually free lined. Funny thing is we only started catching mangroves back in the bays about ten years ago.
Posted on 7/28/26 at 6:50 am to DownshiftAndFloorIt
I want to try one of those Japanese urchin baits for them.
Posted on 7/28/26 at 9:09 am to reds on reds on reds
Im definitely going to try a bunch of different jigging stuff next time we go. Slow fall jigs, regular plastics on a jig head and a normal bass rod w/ light line, etc.
I think I really need to re-think the rigging as much as the baits. Weve tried a bunch of stuff but all Carolina rig, dropshot, or free lined. The free lined stuff always sucks but I think my line is probably too heavy. My stuff is mostly rigged for bear. I bet some much lighter line like 20lb braid and 25 or 20 pound fluoro leaders would present a lot better.
Going to order a bunch of the stuff mentioned and try it on some bass rods next time and see if that helps any.
I think I really need to re-think the rigging as much as the baits. Weve tried a bunch of stuff but all Carolina rig, dropshot, or free lined. The free lined stuff always sucks but I think my line is probably too heavy. My stuff is mostly rigged for bear. I bet some much lighter line like 20lb braid and 25 or 20 pound fluoro leaders would present a lot better.
Going to order a bunch of the stuff mentioned and try it on some bass rods next time and see if that helps any.
Posted on 7/28/26 at 2:37 pm to DownshiftAndFloorIt
I’ve always used live or dead bait but years ago an old HS buddy would wearing them out on a big arse chartreuse crank bait thrown parallel to the down current side of rig. I always wanted to try but never have.
Posted on 7/28/26 at 4:06 pm to DownshiftAndFloorIt
quote:
I bet some much lighter line like 20lb braid and 25 or 20 pound fluoro leaders would present a lot better
This is water clarity dependent but even that sounds heavy for an inshore mangrove. I would go to 16 and as light as 12 on the leader
Posted on 7/28/26 at 7:02 pm to Riseupfromtherubble
I usually use 15 if they're being picky. Its a balancing act for sure though between getting bit and being able to get them away from the rig ASAP.
On the good days 40 pound fluoro works fine and lets you hoss on em.
On the good days 40 pound fluoro works fine and lets you hoss on em.
Posted on 7/28/26 at 9:11 pm to DownshiftAndFloorIt
I imagine a big glide bait would work. The japanese use a ton of artificials on nearshore saltwater species similar to grouper and snapper. Just need the right equipment.
There are some smaller "trolling" baits that you could definitely fish like a crankbait.
Or those giant spinnerbaits LanierSpots is making.
Micro SPJ stuff as well. Ive got a rod I built thats rated down to 30g thatd be perfect for that.
There are some smaller "trolling" baits that you could definitely fish like a crankbait.
Or those giant spinnerbaits LanierSpots is making.
Micro SPJ stuff as well. Ive got a rod I built thats rated down to 30g thatd be perfect for that.
Posted on 7/28/26 at 9:58 pm to The Last Coco
quote:
The japanese use a ton of artificials on nearshore saltwater species similar to grouper and snapper. Just need the right equipment.
The whole part about buying another couple $200+ rods and a bunch of $10-$50+ jigs and associated rigging and respooling my precious sx raptor with 20 or 30 pound braid shorts out my inner coonass circuity.
I did order a couple 100g to 200g slow pitch jigs today and I have a tradition jigging rod (probably too stiff) that is currently on a lever drag reel with 30 pound braid so im not too far off I guess. Im trying to decide on some 30-50gr ones that I will try on regular bass tackle next time I get out. We've done ok on everything before except mangroves vertical jigging but that shite is too much work.
Posted on 7/29/26 at 1:12 am to DownshiftAndFloorIt
quote:
The whole part about buying another couple $200+ rods and a bunch of $10-$50+ jigs and associated rigging and respooling my precious sx raptor with 20 or 30 pound braid shorts out my inner coonass circuity.
Yeah I get that. Its a big swing for something that might not work.
quote:
I did order a couple 100g to 200g slow pitch jigs today and I have a tradition jigging rod (probably too stiff) that is currently on a lever drag reel with 30 pound braid so im not too far off I guess.
The rod really makes the jigs dance. A dedicated spj reel makes it more comfortable to fish, but the rod is the key to the technique.
I have used reels ranging from larger low profile bass reels to dedicated lever drag spj reels.
Also, around rigs in 250ft+, we are usually using 65lb braid and heavy 80-100lb mono leaders for snapper/grouper/jacks.
For shallower snapper like mangroves and using lighter jigs, I would go as heavy as I can get away with which probably means 40lb braid and 20lb leader.
Posted on 7/29/26 at 6:38 am to The Last Coco
quote:
the rod is the key to the technique.
The internet makes this abundantly clear but I dont really understand why. If the action is on the fall I dont undersfand how the rod has anything to do with it but I imagine ill find out pretty quickly.
I started looking and most of my redfishing stuff is spooled with 30 pound braid and makes at least 10 pounds of drag, so I dont see why that wouldn't work with the right rod. The drag numbers on modern low profile reels are pretty surprising, I never paid attention to it till yesterday.
Think 50 pound braid would work? All my mangrove honey holes are under 150' of water, and the fish are usually hanging prettt high up when we are catching them. Per the internets, they like light line to keep the drift under control when fishing deep. I dont ever do that, especially for mangroves.
Posted on 7/29/26 at 8:44 am to DownshiftAndFloorIt
In order for the jig action to activate and flutter, those jigs need to be "pitched". The spj rods load and then pitch the jig at the top of your stroke. This allows the jig to be "thrown" under water instead of just raised and lowered like on a speed jigging setup.
ETA: theyll still flutter on the fall (especially higher flutter designs) and lots of fish are caught on the fall. So its not a total loss.
Speed jigging is intended to mimic a fleeing bait fish, where slow pitch is trying to imitate a dying bait fish.
ETA: theyll still flutter on the fall (especially higher flutter designs) and lots of fish are caught on the fall. So its not a total loss.
Speed jigging is intended to mimic a fleeing bait fish, where slow pitch is trying to imitate a dying bait fish.
This post was edited on 7/29/26 at 9:09 am
Posted on 7/29/26 at 9:12 am to The Last Coco
I've been eyeing up getting into spj fishing, I've done it the last few trips using spinning gear but feel like I'm not using the right gear. Its one of those things I want to try but not invest too much $$ into, so I've been eying up the Gomexus reels and a cheap-ish spj rod.
Posted on 7/29/26 at 9:38 am to YOURADHERE
The Penn Fathom 15xn is a great, reliable, relatively inexpensive spj reel. It has capacity for everyrhing youre gonna do out of La aside from some truly deep stuff youd probably want electric for anyway.
But a Shimano Tranx or Dawia Lexa works too if youve already got that.
For a rod, Goofish makes decent cheap spj rods or go grab the bottom tier JohnnyJigs rod for whatever size jigs youre most likely to throw. Those rods dont have the bells and whistles of expensive models but the blank is great and has the right action.
ETA: for a dedicated Mangrove setup, this Daiwa Saltiga 300 would be tough to beat. One of the few SPJ reels with a level wind. It can hold 250m of PE 3 line (roughly equivalent to 30lb braid).
But a Shimano Tranx or Dawia Lexa works too if youve already got that.
For a rod, Goofish makes decent cheap spj rods or go grab the bottom tier JohnnyJigs rod for whatever size jigs youre most likely to throw. Those rods dont have the bells and whistles of expensive models but the blank is great and has the right action.
ETA: for a dedicated Mangrove setup, this Daiwa Saltiga 300 would be tough to beat. One of the few SPJ reels with a level wind. It can hold 250m of PE 3 line (roughly equivalent to 30lb braid).
This post was edited on 7/29/26 at 9:53 am
Posted on 7/29/26 at 10:02 am to The Last Coco
I aint buying another reel any time soon. Ive got a couple of avet SX's and some good spinning reels, along with curatas and calcuttas and stuff. Thats gonna have to work at least until I catch something.
The spj thing seems like the saddle hunting of the offshore fishing world. The internet geeks out over it, the stuff is uber expensive. Is it really THAT great? I saw some tungston jigs online yesterday for nearly $100 each
So the rod is basically just about getting a long snappy tip travel to yank the jig up? Ive got some bass rods that would work for that with light jigs which is probably what I should use anyway. At least with live bait Ive always caught my best mangroves and reds alot closer to the keel than the bottom.
I did order a harrier super light spj rod this morning, I needed another one anyway. One of my SX's was on a $40 broomstick.
The spj thing seems like the saddle hunting of the offshore fishing world. The internet geeks out over it, the stuff is uber expensive. Is it really THAT great? I saw some tungston jigs online yesterday for nearly $100 each
So the rod is basically just about getting a long snappy tip travel to yank the jig up? Ive got some bass rods that would work for that with light jigs which is probably what I should use anyway. At least with live bait Ive always caught my best mangroves and reds alot closer to the keel than the bottom.
I did order a harrier super light spj rod this morning, I needed another one anyway. One of my SX's was on a $40 broomstick.
Posted on 7/29/26 at 10:05 am to YOURADHERE
quote:
one of those things I want to try but not invest too much $$ into
My problem is more the time than anything. I just dont have time on a cannonball trip to do a lot of experimentation. 3 hours in the truck before the boat is wet, 1 hour in the boat to get out, 1 hour to get back to the trailer. Just not enough daylight to do much. This has been a 5 year long venture for me so far, and somebody with a camp on the coast could probably accomplish the same amount of experimentation as I have within a couple weekends. Tis life.
Posted on 7/29/26 at 10:15 am to DownshiftAndFloorIt
Oh I get it, we've got a spot on the island but just got into offshore fishing about a year ago and have been trying to do alot of figuring it out. We've yet to have that trip where we feel like we've set the world on fire but I keep telling myself it'll come soon enough.
Posted on 7/29/26 at 10:16 am to DownshiftAndFloorIt
Yeah the rod is really only there to work the jig. It needs to not be overloaded by the jig or else it wont pitch it. If youre going to try it with a bass/inshore rod, you want one with a responsive tip - one that, once deflected, returns back to stationary quickly and doesnt wobble a lot. Stay away from glass or composite rods. Usually higher modulus graphite is better.
You do NOT use the rod to fight the fish in traditional spj. You lift the entire rod up and down parralel to water surface if needed but really use the reel to winch in the fish.
You do NOT use the rod to fight the fish in traditional spj. You lift the entire rod up and down parralel to water surface if needed but really use the reel to winch in the fish.
Posted on 7/29/26 at 10:30 am to YOURADHERE
quote:
just got into offshore fishing about a year ago and have been trying to do alot of figuring it out. We've yet to have that trip where we feel like we've set the world on fire
I think our 3rd year was when we started doing well and now I get my feelings hurt if I don't limit out on everything I went after. We only go on the best days though and do what I would call good about half the time. It took that long to build up a library of spots we could count on and to learn what we are looking for. We've had very little help from anyone - just started going and started learning. Very little offshore fishing experience in my family so we're pioneers in a way
We don't have a big enough / fast enough boat to go more than 20 miles out. We've gone farther but you end up doing so much more boat riding than fishing that it's just tough to make yourself do if you aren't staying down there.
I'm hell bent on wrecking mangroves on something artificial though. I don't want to catch a few. I want to catch a shitload of them. I'm damned fed up with buying bait, and catching bait often takes far too much time.
Posted on 7/29/26 at 10:32 am to The Last Coco
You may try straight mono or fluoro 15-20lb test. No leader. Fluro sinks fastest, then mono, and braid floats.
I know live bait is key, but usually if you can get a decent chum going with a small hook and proper presentation on straight fluoro or mono that works well.
Its kind of like fly fishing, you want your bait to sink naturally and usually that's easiest with just a straight mono or fluoro set up.
I know live bait is key, but usually if you can get a decent chum going with a small hook and proper presentation on straight fluoro or mono that works well.
Its kind of like fly fishing, you want your bait to sink naturally and usually that's easiest with just a straight mono or fluoro set up.
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