re: Any carpenters in here? Building a workshop and have some questions.

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Just joist straight across (12') with a 2x6 in the middle at 6'?

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I was telling you I just built the same size shed...

I used 14 footers to cross the 12 ft gap and have a foot over hang to support the roof. In the middle of the 12ft gap I made a 16 ft header with 2 2x8's and plywood in between. I used a jack and spare 4x4 to raise and secure the header with the metal holding plates where all roof supports were flush. Basically a center of front to center of back wall header since you want the open floor. The roof will sag without it.

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I am basically doing it by myself with little to no help

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My buddy and I built the same size shop in a day and a half with a nail gun. There is definitely synergy in carpentry too.

By yourself may take 4 plus days...

Check out this design. Looks pretty hard

This one looks easier for some reason.

Exact same one.

I'd build it with 8' ceiling and gable roof. That's just me. Gonna be hard to do yourself either way.

4x4 for corner post? Never thought of that. Was thinking of a 3 board corner. Looks great though.

I would like a gable roof. How hard are the trusses to make? I know you can get them prefab, but would rather do it myself. Do they have to be nailed and glued? Everywhere I look on the web on building trusses, it always involves glue for some reason.

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Do they have to be nailed and glued?

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Nah. Just nail em. And do a good job.

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4x4 for corner post? Never thought of that.

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They fit in those cement blocks. Then we leveled the floor without have to dig or move any dirt.

We're not "carpenters", but we've built a lot of deer stands. It was kinda built on that theory... just bigger.

We used 18 inch spacing on the floor and 24 on the walls... It's a shanty store room I can lock my four wheeler in. It's not like we are building the taj mahal.

I learned some stuff as we went. It could've been beefier, but it's solid for what it's purpose is.

Now I am having trouble figuring my gable roof so that its totaly enclosed. This is what I have gathered the past couple days researching. I will be running joist and rafters 2' OC. I will place the joist to span the entire width (12'), place them on top of the top plate and flush with the outside of the wall.

Then I have to design and build my rafters. I will have a 4/12 pitch which will be 18 degrees, have a length of 6' 2 13/16 from ridge to wall, overall rafter length is 7' 3 1/2. I will be making the rafter and joist out of 2x4's and the ridge beam will be 2x6. Height of gable is 4'

I will have to make a birds mouth cut to fit onto the top plate, make the tail cut and plumb cut. Tie the rafters to the ridge and place a collar tie under the ridge to support both rafters together.

My confusion is coming with the fascia boarding that runs on the top plate parrellell to the ridge. When I nail the sheathing down all the way to the end of the eve, there is still a gap between the top plate of the wall frame to the underside of the sheathing. I know the birds mouth cut lowers the rafter and secures it, but It still appears to be a gap. Is this where the fascia boarding goes? Do you nail it into the top plate 2x4 and the edge of the joist (that is flush to the outside of the wall?), but all the joist are on the right side of the rafter so when I nail the fascia board on the left side, I have nothing to nail it to on the right side. Do I just put a block there?

I pretty much have everything else good to go. I am also going to support the gable ridge ends with 4x4's from ridge to joist (flush with outside wall). I will also build a ladder of 14" rafter boards to put the overhang on.

Also. COULD I BUILD A GABBLE ROOF WITHOUT AN OVERHANG???

I saw a gusset design that did away with all the oberhang and eve altogether. This would make it much simpler.

Here's a pic. No ridge either, so I don't know how I feel about it. But it's a relatively small room so?