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re: Any carpenters in here? Building a workshop and have some questions.
Posted on 9/24/12 at 9:20 pm to dreaux
Posted on 9/24/12 at 9:20 pm to dreaux
2X10 joists 16" o.c. with 1 1/4" Sturdi Floor is what I suggest for your sub-floor screwed and glued. You might even want to use some sort of moisture seal (Thompson's) on the underside of the floor sheathing. Given the small cost increase relative to the stabilization gained it will be worth it. Also suggest doubling the band on the outside of the SubFloor joists just for nailing deadwood. I would not use OSB as floor sheathing because you will never be able to get the floor totally cleared of sawdust. This is big if you are going to be using an Air Gun for painting down the road. I would also just frame a gable on a 3/12 pitch to give you greater headroom. Very easy to do with Hurricane clips. Make sure you use clips otherwise your roof will end up in your neighbor's yard after the next hurricane.
Exterior Walls I would use a 4X8 Cementous Siding (James Hardie) - Make sure you prime it twice (unless you are using a sprayer) before you paint it with a color coat.
Exterior Walls I would use a 4X8 Cementous Siding (James Hardie) - Make sure you prime it twice (unless you are using a sprayer) before you paint it with a color coat.
This post was edited on 9/24/12 at 9:26 pm
3
Posted on 9/24/12 at 9:26 pm to TemplarTheSaint
quote:
2X10 joists 16" o.c. with 1 1/4" Sturdi Floor
What does OC mean? So 2x10 is ok for support beams? Don't the joist run perpendicular to the support beams? Couldn't I use 2x6 or 2x8 for joist?
And what is 1-1/4 sturdi floor? Sorry for my ignorance.
Posted on 9/24/12 at 9:26 pm to dreaux
o.c. = on center
I would use 2X10 for all the joists. 5/4 sturdi Flor is a plywood sheathing used just like 3/4 plywood. It is tongue and grooved just like other floor sheathing, but the added thickness takes nearly all of the bounce and sag out of the floor system.
I would use 2X10 for all the joists. 5/4 sturdi Flor is a plywood sheathing used just like 3/4 plywood. It is tongue and grooved just like other floor sheathing, but the added thickness takes nearly all of the bounce and sag out of the floor system.
This post was edited on 9/24/12 at 9:30 pm
Posted on 9/24/12 at 9:28 pm to TemplarTheSaint
quote:
o.c. = on center
I feel like
Posted on 9/24/12 at 10:01 pm to dreaux
Exterior ya could use 3/8 treated plywood, cheap, wont rot.
Posted on 9/25/12 at 7:05 am to Nodust
Yea the only thing that matters is how many inches you have up and down.
Posted on 9/25/12 at 7:08 am to TemplarTheSaint
He could also just make hurricane ties out of 2x4s to save some money. Works great just not quite as easy.
Posted on 9/25/12 at 9:01 am to TemplarTheSaint
quote:
Make sure you prime it twice (unless you are using a sprayer) before you paint it with a color coat.
Doesn't it come primed?
Posted on 9/26/12 at 11:21 am to TemplarTheSaint
Once I am done with the support beams and joist, do I put the flooring down to cover the entire area? What I mean is, when I start framing the walls, does the bottom plate of the frame sit on the plywood, or joist/support beam?
Also regarding the centers ( 16" or 24" ). If a sheet of plywood is 48", and you start all the way on the boundry, does the plywood still hit in the center of the joist/studs? I know the joist and studs are on center so the edge will end up covering half a stud/joist correct? Just making sure. Never done this before
Also regarding the centers ( 16" or 24" ). If a sheet of plywood is 48", and you start all the way on the boundry, does the plywood still hit in the center of the joist/studs? I know the joist and studs are on center so the edge will end up covering half a stud/joist correct? Just making sure. Never done this before
Posted on 9/26/12 at 1:48 pm to dreaux
(no message)
Posted on 9/26/12 at 1:58 pm to dreaux
Correct as long as they are laid out correctly.
Posted on 9/26/12 at 3:42 pm to BarDTiger81
Thanks.
Posted on 9/26/12 at 6:07 pm to dreaux
I am on to designing my roof. 12x16.
How hard and expensive would it be for trusses with gables? But then I won't be able to use that space for much of anything. How would you go about building rafters without all the braces in the way so I could use the space above my ceiling?
I have searched the web and got a lot of ambiguous info.
Then I guess I could do a single slope roof (like an inch for every foot). This would be the easiest and cheapest. It's also not as appealing to the eye and no storage space.
What does the ODB think?
How hard and expensive would it be for trusses with gables? But then I won't be able to use that space for much of anything. How would you go about building rafters without all the braces in the way so I could use the space above my ceiling?
I have searched the web and got a lot of ambiguous info.
Then I guess I could do a single slope roof (like an inch for every foot). This would be the easiest and cheapest. It's also not as appealing to the eye and no storage space.
What does the ODB think?
Posted on 9/26/12 at 7:18 pm to dreaux
Since you dont have a lot of experience building I would say just stick to a single slope roof. Will be much easier for you. I would recommend you make the short side at minimum 8 ft
Posted on 9/26/12 at 7:53 pm to dreaux
you'll want taller ceilings. Trust me.
I stayed at a holiday inn express last night
I stayed at a holiday inn express last night
Posted on 9/26/12 at 7:58 pm to jimbeam
quote:
you'll want taller ceilings. Trust me.
The house I am in now has 7-1/2 ceilings. I was actually shocked to see that. 8 ft 2x4's are precut and cheap.
How would you slope the roof? Would you use joist hangers? Or just toe nail it?
Posted on 9/26/12 at 8:45 pm to dreaux
I can't find ANY instructions on how to build a single slope roof. At first I was assuming common sense would be enough to slope some rafters. But I am second guessing myself on several things. I will have about 18" of overhang, what I am having trouble picturing is how the rafters connect to the top plate of the wall. Do I notch the rafters out? Do they make clips/hangers to attach at a sloped 90 degree intersection? And finally, I don't need joist correct? It's only going for 12' and might have 1' of total slope.
Posted on 9/26/12 at 10:24 pm to dreaux
(no message)
Posted on 9/26/12 at 11:05 pm to dreaux
You should spend some time looking at the many plans available online for sheds and workshops. Most are free or $20 bucks or so, have all the detail you need, along with material lists for costing.
Google shed plans
Just-sheds.com is one
Google shed plans
Just-sheds.com is one
Posted on 9/26/12 at 11:14 pm to dreaux
quote:
12x16 workshop
I just put the metal roof on mine today.
I used 2x8 under the floors. It's solid. It's not like you're building the Taj Mahal...
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