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Message
24 HP Kawasaki engine dies when throttling down
Posted on 4/30/21 at 12:01 pm
Posted on 4/30/21 at 12:01 pm
Runs great while mowing, but when you throttle down it dies. Sounds like it’s flooding while crapping out. Restarts as if it’a flooded (but that coulda been me choking it). Also, if it idles to long - like while you’re moving a tree limb or calling your dog off the road- it’ll die.
Any theories? I can’t be the only SOB that’s experienced this. TIA
Any theories? I can’t be the only SOB that’s experienced this. TIA
7
Posted on 4/30/21 at 12:03 pm to tigerinthebueche
I believe it is the missing horsepower causing the problems
Posted on 4/30/21 at 12:11 pm to Ruxins Rascals
It’s a mower! Not a motorcycle 
Posted on 4/30/21 at 12:13 pm to tigerinthebueche
Without knowing the particulars of that engine it does sound like it’s getting too much fuel or not enough air, cleaned the filter lately?
Posted on 4/30/21 at 12:17 pm to tigerinthebueche
Fill tank with new ethanol free gas with 1 oz of seafoam added per gallon. Seafoam is Stabil with cleaners. Sounds like the low speed jet in the carb is gummed up. The seafoam will breakup that varnish crap and clean your entire fuel system. I run Seafom gas in all my small engines.
Posted on 4/30/21 at 12:17 pm to tigerinthebueche
Plugs, vacuum fuel pump.
Kawis kill both.
Kawis kill both.
Posted on 4/30/21 at 12:19 pm to tigerinthebueche
carb float needle isnt sealing so it is slowly flooding
buy a new carb for it off ebay, they only cost about $30 and the rebuild kits for your carb cost $20 so its stupid to not just replace the carb.
its easy but fidley so take pictures of how everything is connected even how the linkages are and watch some youtube videos.
its not hard to do and even a novice can do it if you pay attention
buy a new carb for it off ebay, they only cost about $30 and the rebuild kits for your carb cost $20 so its stupid to not just replace the carb.
its easy but fidley so take pictures of how everything is connected even how the linkages are and watch some youtube videos.
its not hard to do and even a novice can do it if you pay attention
Posted on 4/30/21 at 1:30 pm to keakar
Thanks guys. For the record, I had some bad fuel (purchased from the Murphy station in Denham) that I ran through the engine. Had the tank drained and carb cleaned ( twice, according to the mechanic).
I’ll try y’all’s suggestions on the carb, fuel and additive.
I’ll try y’all’s suggestions on the carb, fuel and additive.
Posted on 4/30/21 at 7:08 pm to tigerinthebueche
Ethanol gas?
Posted on 4/30/21 at 7:14 pm to HeadSlash
Sounds like it.
Posted on 4/30/21 at 10:47 pm to HeadSlash
quote:
Ethanol gas?
No, non ethanol per the pump.
Posted on 4/30/21 at 11:43 pm to tigerinthebueche
This may shock you, but in a mower... I'd be more willing to run ethanol fuel. You're running at near redline rpm at all times. It's never going to sit unused for large amounts of time.
The standard ethanol fuel will have additive packs that provide cleaner more complete combustion.
The standard ethanol fuel will have additive packs that provide cleaner more complete combustion.
Posted on 5/1/21 at 8:05 am to X123F45
I’ve got a couple of gas cans I fuel all the lawn equipment with. I keep non ethanol gas in them for use with the blowers, weed eaters etc. I’ll run ethanol occasionally if I fill the mower up at the pump.
Posted on 5/1/21 at 9:59 am to X123F45
quote:
The standard ethanol fuel will have additive packs that provide cleaner more complete combustion.
If my choice was between 87 non-ethanol or 91 ethanol, I choose the ethanol. There are plenty of additives that will negate the ethanol.
Posted on 5/1/21 at 10:09 am to tigerinthebueche
The people who are downvoting either don't understand engines or don't understand physics.
For our smaller items, even the two strokes, I'm not opposed to ethanol throughout the summer. But I only buy 5 gallons at a time and it goes in a metal can.
And I only run synthetic 20% benol castor. It inhibits varnish. Klotz being the cheapest option.
If you want to try a mechanic in a can before fooling eith anything. Buy a can of berrymans chemtool next to the seafoam at the store.
Two ounces per gallon. It's a xylene/toluene blend.
For our smaller items, even the two strokes, I'm not opposed to ethanol throughout the summer. But I only buy 5 gallons at a time and it goes in a metal can.
And I only run synthetic 20% benol castor. It inhibits varnish. Klotz being the cheapest option.
If you want to try a mechanic in a can before fooling eith anything. Buy a can of berrymans chemtool next to the seafoam at the store.
Two ounces per gallon. It's a xylene/toluene blend.
Posted on 5/1/21 at 10:24 am to tigerinthebueche
I try to run a mix of112 racing fuel through my Kawasaki engine. It’s not something you see ordinarily but I mix .5 gallon per 3 gallon tank for a few fill-ups at a time. Before I upgraded to side by side efi that thing was my workhorse.
Posted on 5/1/21 at 10:47 am to tigerinthebueche
quote:
Any theories? I can’t be the only SOB that’s experienced this. TIA
99% of the issues with small engines are going to be fuel and carb related. I never pull one down until I have ran some Techron in it if it’s sputters and you can get some Techron through it it will clean up. If not shoot some carb cleaner through it it’s prolly a blockage in the jet..
Posted on 5/1/21 at 1:44 pm to Ol boy
I had an issue with the cutoff antibackfire solenoid at the bottom of the carb sticking.
Just enough to starve the carb it seems at low throttle.
I went through the carb, gas tank, hoses, plugs, and checked the fuel pump.
Lastly I took a damn hacksaw and cut the stem of that solenoid off all the way and screwed it back on.
Cranked and has run great ever since.
The book does say to set the valve clearance after 100 hours so don't forget that.
Screws on the bottom and holds the bowl on. Has a two wire plug going to it. Take it off and see if the plunger moves free. I had to bang mine nose down on the work bench to free it and shite poured out of the base. That's when I cut the bastard off.
Just enough to starve the carb it seems at low throttle.
I went through the carb, gas tank, hoses, plugs, and checked the fuel pump.
Lastly I took a damn hacksaw and cut the stem of that solenoid off all the way and screwed it back on.
Cranked and has run great ever since.
The book does say to set the valve clearance after 100 hours so don't forget that.
Screws on the bottom and holds the bowl on. Has a two wire plug going to it. Take it off and see if the plunger moves free. I had to bang mine nose down on the work bench to free it and shite poured out of the base. That's when I cut the bastard off.
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