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Message
2008 Toyota Tundra Issues
Posted on 4/19/17 at 1:35 am
Posted on 4/19/17 at 1:35 am
My work truck is displaying the check engine, VSC OFF, and traction control lights. I also have a significant loss of power and will not get over 3500 RPMs.
The truck only has about 87K miles. Forums say anything between water in fuel, lose gas cap, bad 7th cylinder. Anyone else every had this issue?
The truck only has about 87K miles. Forums say anything between water in fuel, lose gas cap, bad 7th cylinder. Anyone else every had this issue?
12
Posted on 4/19/17 at 6:35 am to Chatagnier
Usually, that's just an UH OH code.
Get yourself a code reader. Dump a can of chemtool in your tank for a few tanks. Reset the light after pulling the code.
Very unlikely that it's a bad emission component this early in the game.
Get yourself a code reader. Dump a can of chemtool in your tank for a few tanks. Reset the light after pulling the code.
Very unlikely that it's a bad emission component this early in the game.
Posted on 4/19/17 at 6:50 am to Chatagnier
Fairly certain that has something to do with the Air Injection Pump. I believe that year is part of the service bulletin not recall. Call the dealer, should be covered.
Posted on 4/19/17 at 6:53 am to Chatagnier
Happened to mine too. Truck is in "limp mode". Air induction pump problems. Unless you bypass them, you have to bring it to the dealer. LINK /
Posted on 4/19/17 at 7:01 am to Chatagnier
Had the same problem with my 2012 Tundra. Mine was the gas cap. Tightened it and zero issues after.
Edit: Turned out that I had basically cross-threaded the cap at some point.
Edit: Turned out that I had basically cross-threaded the cap at some point.
This post was edited on 4/19/17 at 7:42 am
Posted on 4/19/17 at 7:15 am to Chatagnier
Get a obd II scanner from Amazon.
LINK
I have this one
Download TORQ app to your Android phone and you can view the code and also clear it. This will allow you to drive the truck normally until it happens again.
Like others have said, about the only issue you will have with that model truck is the AIP's and they are hard to get and very expensive.
And
Extended warranty
Or just bypass the whole system and never worry about it happening again.
LINK
LINK
I have this one
Download TORQ app to your Android phone and you can view the code and also clear it. This will allow you to drive the truck normally until it happens again.
Like others have said, about the only issue you will have with that model truck is the AIP's and they are hard to get and very expensive.
And
quote:
Toyota has recently introduced a Customer Support Program to extend the warranty coverage on air injection pumps and air switching valves. This program will extend the warranty on air induction pump assemblies and air injection switching valves for the condition described to 10 years from the date of first use or 150,000 miles, whichever comes first
Extended warranty
Or just bypass the whole system and never worry about it happening again.
LINK
This post was edited on 4/19/17 at 7:25 am
Posted on 4/19/17 at 8:03 am to meauxjeaux2
Good advice. Mine was fixed under warranty but it was at the dealer for two weeks.
Posted on 4/19/17 at 9:12 am to Chatagnier
My 2010 was fixed under warranty as well but if you have over 150,000 miles on it they may not cover. That was cutoff when mine was done. If it is not covered and they want to charge you $3000 this is probably your best option Hewitt bypass
There are a couple others that make the bypass as well but from looking at forums I believe this is the one most people recommend.
edit: corrected miles
There are a couple others that make the bypass as well but from looking at forums I believe this is the one most people recommend.
edit: corrected miles
This post was edited on 4/19/17 at 9:14 am
Posted on 4/19/17 at 9:20 am to MSGulfTiger
I have a 2008 and am starting to have problems with this, just check engine light at this point. I have 245k miles Yota said we are currently not going to be covered.
Posted on 4/19/17 at 9:36 am to Chatagnier
Sounds like a catalytic converter or fuel (pump or filter) issue.
Posted on 4/19/17 at 9:58 am to Chatagnier
Knock sensors prolly. Mine did the same thing rat chewed the wires
Posted on 4/19/17 at 2:10 pm to Chatagnier
quote:
My work truck is displaying the check engine, VSC OFF, and traction control lights. I also have a significant loss of power and will not get over 3500 RPMs.
This is the exact symptom of the air induction pump issue, that some have mentioned-no doubt about it. If you had 4X4, that light would be flashing too. Toyota is warranting it for 10 yr/150K miles. My 2010 did it last year at 100,300 miles. I disconnected the battery and it went away for 15K miles before it finally did it again. You have to have the codes in when you bring it to the dealer. I bought mine used in Houston, but live here. I took it to Courtesy Toyota in Morgan City when this surfaced. Took a few days because they didn't have the parts in stock. Invoice would have been just over $2K. Didn't pay a dime. Great service for not having bought from them.
Posted on 4/19/17 at 3:53 pm to Tiger-Striped-Bass
Thanks for the input guys 
Posted on 4/19/17 at 11:13 pm to Chatagnier
Do not clear the codes because the dealer will not do the work without them.
I cleared my code to get out of limp mode on my 2010 Sequoia and had to wait 3 months for it to happen again to get it fixed.
I cleared my code to get out of limp mode on my 2010 Sequoia and had to wait 3 months for it to happen again to get it fixed.
Posted on 4/20/17 at 12:20 pm to Chatagnier
Had same issue with 06 4Runner (same v8 I think). I got several quotes and all were expensive. For a temporary fix, disconnect the battery for a minute and reconnect. It may last a day or so.
Posted on 4/20/17 at 1:08 pm to Chatagnier
get a cheap scanner or go to autozone and get the code read
Is it a 4.0 V6, 4.7 V8 or 5.7 V8???
it could be something as simple and easy as replacing an ignition coil, fuel cap, etc but without the code nobody can be of much help diagnosing it
Is it a 4.0 V6, 4.7 V8 or 5.7 V8???
it could be something as simple and easy as replacing an ignition coil, fuel cap, etc but without the code nobody can be of much help diagnosing it
Posted on 4/20/17 at 6:35 pm to Chatagnier
Just had this happen to my truck. I took it to O'Reilly, and they said it was a knock sensor that was bad. Took it to my local mechanic. A rat had crawled up in my engine and chewed one of the sensor wires. They swapped it out...runs perfect now. Parts/labor right around $400. Dealer will charge much more.
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