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What’s underneath the radials? Do alignment guys adjust camber bolts?
Posted on 8/24/24 at 2:39 pm
Posted on 8/24/24 at 2:39 pm
Lowered it with springs, got cam bolts to adjust the camber, and put some 1” spacers…but I never got it aligned. Bringing it to a Michelin shop for a couple new tires, 16k miles on the car, think they’ll be fine with adjusting the aftermarket cam bolts?
Shocked at the wear when changing the oil this morning…guess it was inevitable without the proper setup. Car tracks straight at speed.
Just hoping the alignment goes well at my appointment.
5
Posted on 8/24/24 at 2:43 pm to Gaston
But how the hell did you get it on the ramps!?!?!
Posted on 8/24/24 at 2:49 pm to BoogaBear
Sketchy. I got 1by6s and staggered the them by 6” or so…left the ramps on the ground the top board rode up the ramp. Left side didn’t stick when I went back down…but I just did it quickly. Need some of those transition wedges…but I had to get it done. Tire has a giant staple in it…or something. Can see it in the photo.
Posted on 8/24/24 at 2:51 pm to Gaston
quote:
Lowered it with springs, got cam bolts to adjust the camber, and put some 1” spacers…but I never got it aligned
Well, there's a fricking mistake.
quote:
aftermarket cam bolts
quote:
guess it was inevitable without the proper setup
Here's a clue. The manufacturer knows more about the car than you.
This post was edited on 8/24/24 at 2:52 pm
Posted on 8/24/24 at 2:54 pm to VABuckeye
quote:
Here's a clue. The manufacturer knows more about the car than you.
I doubt it, they put badges on vehicles and we all know that’s not right.
Posted on 8/24/24 at 2:54 pm to VABuckeye
Yea, but when you lower it you have to do something with the camber.
I tried at the dealership…at the 1st free oil change. After 5 hours I told them to go frick themselves and give me my car. This is oil change #2…dang tire is barely holding on.
The fella that lowered it for me didn’t have alignment tools.
I tried at the dealership…at the 1st free oil change. After 5 hours I told them to go frick themselves and give me my car. This is oil change #2…dang tire is barely holding on.
The fella that lowered it for me didn’t have alignment tools.
Posted on 8/24/24 at 2:56 pm to Gaston
16k miles and already problems! Preparing your son for his future german cars i see.
Posted on 8/24/24 at 2:59 pm to mmonro3
Not a ‘problem’…but yea, the German style of looking better than you are, in relation to servicing, does have inherent disadvantages.
This post was edited on 8/24/24 at 3:01 pm
Posted on 8/24/24 at 3:03 pm to mmonro3
quote:
Preparing your son for his future german cars i see
I have a German car with almost 140k miles and it's been mostly problem free and certainly nothing at 16k miles.
Posted on 8/24/24 at 3:15 pm to VABuckeye
My German car has 185k on it and I’m still on the factory clutch. No warning lights on the dash either.
He’s an 18 yr old that’ll buy new rims and tires, coil overs and exhaust right when he gets to school. Definitely will turbo or supercharge it as well. They pay ‘em now (to kick footballs in the SEC).
He’s an 18 yr old that’ll buy new rims and tires, coil overs and exhaust right when he gets to school. Definitely will turbo or supercharge it as well. They pay ‘em now (to kick footballs in the SEC).
Posted on 8/24/24 at 3:17 pm to Gaston
quote:
Yea, but when you lower it you have to do something with the camber
Not always.
Also
quote:
…dang tire is barely holding on.
Your fault with the spacers. Buy the right wheel offset and throw the spacers away.
quote:
The fella that lowered it for me didn’t have alignment tools
It keeps getting worse
Posted on 8/24/24 at 3:24 pm to jaytothen
I’m not replacing springs…I got the best ones on the market though. Dropping it that much up front required cam bolts, but from his explanation he put them up top instead of the bottom. But hey, whatevs. I’ll bring the factory bolts with me.
Nobody wanted to do all of that to a brand new car with ~1200 miles on it. I called everyone.
Nobody wanted to do all of that to a brand new car with ~1200 miles on it. I called everyone.
Posted on 8/24/24 at 3:36 pm to Gaston
quote:
Gaston
The kind of shite you bring to this board for topics is strange.
Posted on 8/24/24 at 3:37 pm to Gaston
Figure about 1 degree of negative camber added per inch lowered. You look like you have more than that though.
In general, never you a shop for mods if they can only do part of the job. That often makes it hard to find a shop that will handle the back-end work on a freshly modded car, it also means anything that goes wrong the second shop will blame the first and vice versa.
If/when you do go FI for gods' sake find a reputable shop that has done the job with the exact kit you are using and don't go to one that does half the job ie does the mechanical work but leaves you on your own to tune it. The tuning is the magic so you want a competent shop with a dyno and a tuning guru.
ETA I may regret this but I suppose I should mention if your camber is easy to adjust with the new setup I use a SmartCamber tool from Smart Racing Products to set my camber when I get to the track and before I leave because the cars I track get run on the street. It is accurate and not expensive (IIRC it was $250 when I bought it).
In general, never you a shop for mods if they can only do part of the job. That often makes it hard to find a shop that will handle the back-end work on a freshly modded car, it also means anything that goes wrong the second shop will blame the first and vice versa.
If/when you do go FI for gods' sake find a reputable shop that has done the job with the exact kit you are using and don't go to one that does half the job ie does the mechanical work but leaves you on your own to tune it. The tuning is the magic so you want a competent shop with a dyno and a tuning guru.
ETA I may regret this but I suppose I should mention if your camber is easy to adjust with the new setup I use a SmartCamber tool from Smart Racing Products to set my camber when I get to the track and before I leave because the cars I track get run on the street. It is accurate and not expensive (IIRC it was $250 when I bought it).
This post was edited on 8/24/24 at 4:01 pm
Posted on 8/24/24 at 4:07 pm to jorconalx
quote:
The kind of shite you bring to this board for topics is strange.
It’s called content creation. Unique to this site and right now. I wish everyone would bring creative threads, with a 1 off photo nowhere else on the internet.
Really, were at a straight Twitter link as an OP for everything?
I talk about some topics too much…but whatever.
Posted on 8/24/24 at 4:14 pm to Gaston
2 tires 
Posted on 8/24/24 at 4:28 pm to Bayou
New ones on the back always.
Posted on 8/24/24 at 4:34 pm to Gaston
quote:
I’m not replacing springs…I got the best ones on the market though. Dropping it that much up front required cam bolts, but from his explanation he put them up top instead of the bottom. But hey, whatevs. I’ll bring the factory bolts with me.
What car and what parts did you get
Posted on 8/24/24 at 4:43 pm to Gaston
No clue WTF any of yall are talking about, but Jesus Christ I’ve daily driven a bagged and body dropped vehicle for the last 15+ years….
Go to Jim’s in BR, get it aligned at ride height, and go drive it. It’s not that fricking difficult. Holy smokes.
Go to Jim’s in BR, get it aligned at ride height, and go drive it. It’s not that fricking difficult. Holy smokes.
This post was edited on 8/24/24 at 4:43 pm
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