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re: OT Mechanics - Question about Motor Oil

Posted on 11/22/25 at 11:52 am to
Posted by Civildawg
Member since May 2012
10164 posts
Posted on 11/22/25 at 11:52 am to
I would run the new Valvoline restore and protect. It has a proven cleaning ability to free up stuck rings which could be your problem
Posted by sleepytime
Member since Feb 2014
3847 posts
Posted on 11/22/25 at 12:01 pm to
There's a TSB for this. Get your PCM reflashed, change your pcv valve and switch to 5-30 plus a bottle of Liquid Moly MOS2 and check your levels every thousand miles to see if it improves. From what I remember, there was too much suction in the pcv system during deceleration and oil was being sucked past the rings. That and there were issues with the plasma coated cylinders. If it keeps burning oil, it's going to burn your cats up so you may want to consider trading it in.

LINK to TSB
Posted by UptownJoeBrown
Baton Rouge
Member since Jul 2024
6689 posts
Posted on 11/22/25 at 12:04 pm to
quote:

2000 miles per quart is not really that. excessive.


I agree with this considering the mileage.

You really want to not give it the factory oil specs that it was designed for and not just monitor and put in a quart of oil every 2K miles?
This post was edited on 11/22/25 at 12:05 pm
Posted by weadjust
Member since Aug 2012
15631 posts
Posted on 11/22/25 at 12:35 pm to
quote:

Oh and your engine is engineered for that specific oil specs. There’s a reason for it. Don’t just use a different spec oil and say well let’s see what happens. Dumb.


Then why does toyota recommend 20 weight oil for an American Toyota & 30 weight oil for a Japanese Toyota? I'll tell you why. America has the bullshite CAFE MPG requirements. It's all about fuel mileage not the engine. The Japanese engineers know 30 weight is better for the engine but bent the knee to satisfy the US Govt. All the auto companies do this BS to get the max MPG.
Posted by TigerinKorea
Member since Aug 2014
8837 posts
Posted on 11/22/25 at 1:02 pm to
quote:

The Japanese engineers know 30 weight is better for the engine but bent the knee to satisfy the US Govt. All the auto companies do this BS to get the max MPG


That’s what the gentleman at the dealership explained. From how I understood it, the 20 weight is for maximizing gas mileage, because that’s the current trend.
This post was edited on 11/22/25 at 1:29 pm
Posted by 756
Member since Sep 2004
15752 posts
Posted on 11/22/25 at 1:14 pm to
Keep same oil..change oil at 4000 mile intervals
Posted by Obtuse1
Westside Bodymore Yo
Member since Sep 2016
29991 posts
Posted on 11/22/25 at 1:21 pm to
This is a highly contentious issue and one I have changed my opinion on over the years as I have learned more.

I am just going to make declarations as I see fit at this point in my understanding.

1. your oil consumption is high but not super high

2. verify you have no leaks, I assume your mechanic has been under the car but to check for leaks you need to remove all the plastic shields, they can hide leaks. Some manufacturers (BMW is famous for it) actually put diapers on the inside of the shields which will mask pretty significant leaks but the shields alone can do it

3. this is the time you should be considering a high-mileage oil that contains something like seal swelling esters. M1 High Milage and Valvoline Restore and Protect are two good options. This may reduce you lost oil to some degree

4. moving to a higher viscosity oil (within reason) is 100% safe and almost every engine

5. moving from 5W20 to 10W30 is fine in that engine and will likely reduce oil consumption, especially if you live in LA or the rest of the south.

6. higher viscosity oil will cause a reduction in milage and horsepower, those are simple physics you can't avoid it but it will be marginal

7. don't use any oil additives, they can have bad interactions with the oils additive package, you simply don't know what chemistry is going on

8. if you tow a lot my oil recommendations would likely change as I would suggest something with higher shear resistance than the two I mentioned.

9. your mechanic was correct
Posted by leeman101
Huntsville, AL
Member since Aug 2020
2386 posts
Posted on 11/22/25 at 2:01 pm to
With that many miles you might try the high mileage oil for vehicles with over 75,000 miles. I'd try 5W-30 first and see before I'd jump to 10W-30. It'll still get lubricated with the thicker.
Posted by Redbone
my castle
Member since Sep 2012
20531 posts
Posted on 11/22/25 at 2:30 pm to
quote:

Not even gonna debate with you on this. No offense.
Me either. I'm not an "Mechanic". I'm an old hot rodder.

Put 10w30 in it right now. Consider going to 10w40 for less oil usage AND better fuel economy.

That watery shite they got you using now is only good for their lab tested CAFE numbers.
Posted by Redbone
my castle
Member since Sep 2012
20531 posts
Posted on 11/22/25 at 2:33 pm to
quote:

and one I have changed my opinion on over the years
You want to change it again? Talk to my son, a tribologist with Shell.
Posted by BigBinBR
Baton Rouge
Member since Mar 2023
9093 posts
Posted on 11/22/25 at 2:45 pm to
quote:

My 2020 F150 5.0 L V8 burns an abnormal amount of motor oil, especially when I hit the gas hard.

How do you know it’s burning oil when you hit the gas hard? What color is the smoke, and how much.

10w-30 is fine. But the 10w number really doesn’t matter for you because that’s the weight when it’s cold. You are allegedly burning oil when it’s hot (running temp). The 30 will be heavier at operating temp, and you will burn a little less, but it’s not fixing a problem.

Also, are you sure it’s not burning within spec? The old 5.0 used to be 7.7 quarts and they increased the capacity to 8.8 because they burned oil. They added the extra capacity because they know it burns oil and during normal intervals between changes that extra 1.1 makes sure you still have enough oil even after burning some.


GM is even worse. Theirs used to be 6 quarts and now it’s 8. But they did the same thing. Just up the oil capacity so there will always be enough oil even after burning some.




Posted by Obtuse1
Westside Bodymore Yo
Member since Sep 2016
29991 posts
Posted on 11/22/25 at 3:22 pm to
quote:

You want to change it again? Talk to my son, a tribologist with Shell.


I am pretty locked in now, as a result of personal relationships with tribologists. I live in the racing capital of the US and have always had a close realtionship with local people in high level motorsports and have made close friends with a couple of tribologists and work with one at a company that formulates my oil I use when I track my car.

Oil is a contentious subject. Within the options we have, viscosity is probably the simplest for a lay person to grasp. The idea that there is one weight for any engine is easy to dispel. The operating conditions are so varied in the US that there could be no one weight that would be optimum for all the climates just in CONUS, oil weights vary so much out of the container, and viscosity shifts are so significant in use saying one set weight is the only thing that will function in and engine properly is simply foolish.
Posted by Crappieman
Member since Apr 2025
1709 posts
Posted on 11/22/25 at 3:36 pm to
Use the recommended oil but change to a high mileage oil. Helps condition seals. Change every 5000 miles. Once oil get burned and thin viscosity it can slip past the rings on older engines.
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