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re: OT DIY types: Building a bookcase
Posted on 6/4/18 at 4:49 pm to ksayetiger
Posted on 6/4/18 at 4:49 pm to ksayetiger
ksayetiger, don’t be a dick, bro.
0
Posted on 6/4/18 at 4:51 pm to boxcarbarney
quote:
What material did you use? MDF?
I used #1 pine. 1/4 inch birch plywood for the backing.
Posted on 6/4/18 at 4:54 pm to doublecutter
Nice work!
Posted on 6/4/18 at 5:28 pm to momentoftruth87
Use 3/4 Baltic birch ply not the Chinese stuff. Face frames can be made out of poplar. I’ll s cond the Kreg jig for your joinery. Finish it with Benjamin Moore satin impervo for a smooth finish.
Posted on 6/4/18 at 5:35 pm to boxcarbarney
(no message)
This post was edited on 9/26/20 at 9:08 pm
Posted on 6/4/18 at 7:17 pm to doublecutter
quote:
I used #1 pine. 1/4 inch birch plywood for the backing.
That's a good build.
OP, do you want to paint this shelf, or are you going to stain it? That'll factor in to the cost as well, due to materials.
Posted on 6/4/18 at 7:30 pm to ksayetiger
quote:
I bet you run a 4.2 forty, huh big guy?
You goto the wrong info, I run a 4.3.
This post was edited on 6/4/18 at 7:32 pm
Posted on 6/4/18 at 7:30 pm to wadewilson
Was already stated but want to repeat. Buy a Kreg Jig pocket hole tool. Kreg also makes a tool for bookcase shelving.
Post pics of what you make. Also. Build it on top of existing floor.
Post pics of what you make. Also. Build it on top of existing floor.
Posted on 6/4/18 at 7:43 pm to boxcarbarney
If you look at where my shelves meet in the corner, I didn't continue the shelves all the way into the corner.
In that hollown space in the corner, I built in two hidng spaces. One is on the top of the book shelf, there is a space about 2 feet deep, with a piece of wood loose laid covering the hollow space.
And in the right cabinet, I have an access panel that opens into that hollow space.
Posted on 6/4/18 at 7:44 pm to wadewilson
I was planning on using MDF board. Prime it and paint it white.
Posted on 6/4/18 at 7:50 pm to boxcarbarney
You don’t want MDF for the structural components. It’s fine for the doors (if you have them) if you’re using cup hinges.
Paint Grade can be from Birch or a lot are using Radiata Pine now. Domestic birch is expensive and china birch is expensive (tariffs) and not as good.
3/4” side panels and shelves, 1/4” back panel. Poplar face frame. Join face frame with Kreg pocket Screws. You can use nails for the bottom/top/fixed shelves if you’d like.
Paint Grade can be from Birch or a lot are using Radiata Pine now. Domestic birch is expensive and china birch is expensive (tariffs) and not as good.
3/4” side panels and shelves, 1/4” back panel. Poplar face frame. Join face frame with Kreg pocket Screws. You can use nails for the bottom/top/fixed shelves if you’d like.
Posted on 6/4/18 at 8:03 pm to mikie421
quote:
Finish it with Benjamin Moore satin impervo for a smooth finish.
Have oak cabinets (light stain) and we are currently painting. Already sanded and painted the attached cabinets. The doors are sanded and ready for paint.
We used/are still using Benjamin Moore as well. Wife did quite a bit of research and found out about bmoore paint. The frame right now looks great. Using Coventry Grey. Hand painted the framing, will use a sprayer for doors.
Posted on 6/4/18 at 8:18 pm to LSUtigerME
What's the issue with MDF?
Posted on 6/4/18 at 8:25 pm to boxcarbarney
And, where do you buy this higher grade wood?
Posted on 6/4/18 at 8:54 pm to LSUtigerME
quote:
You don’t want MDF for the structural components. It’s fine for the doors (if you have them) if you’re using cup hinges.
Paint Grade can be from Birch or a lot are using Radiata Pine now. Domestic birch is expensive and china birch is expensive (tariffs) and not as good.
I don't think it can possibly be understated how stupidly expensive birch is.
Posted on 6/4/18 at 9:07 pm to boxcarbarney
quote:
What's the issue with MDF?
MDF is poor for structural strength and doesn’t hold screws well. Poor strength for shelves compared to plywood.
quote:
And, where do you buy this higher grade wood?
Where are you located?
Not Home Depot. In New Orleans riverside lumber, or Acadian hardwoods in pontchatoula
Posted on 6/4/18 at 9:13 pm to mikie421
I'm in the New Orleans area. What about plywood with a veneer?
Posted on 6/4/18 at 9:31 pm to boxcarbarney
just go to riverside lumber on Downman road, tell them what you want to build and they will hook you up. They have every kind of plywood and hardwood you can think of. Stop at visions on the way home.
Posted on 6/4/18 at 10:16 pm to boxcarbarney
Dado joints for the shelves are much better than screws.
But to answer your question, if it’s a floating floor, cut it out. You don’t want to lock it in by putting this on top. You can hide the cut with shoe mold.
This thread has inspired me to fill in a corner of my house with one of these. I already built a large wall unit so this shouldn’t be much different!
But to answer your question, if it’s a floating floor, cut it out. You don’t want to lock it in by putting this on top. You can hide the cut with shoe mold.
This thread has inspired me to fill in a corner of my house with one of these. I already built a large wall unit so this shouldn’t be much different!
This post was edited on 6/4/18 at 10:35 pm
Posted on 6/4/18 at 10:50 pm to boxcarbarney
quote:
just go to riverside lumber on Downman road, tell them what you want to build and they will hook you up. They have every kind of plywood and hardwood you can think of. Stop at visions on the way home.
And when you go to Riverside, remember to bring your wallet. They have some beautiful wood, but it comes at a dear price.
You'll need your wallet at Visions too, if yof want a good time.
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