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Posted on 12/2/15 at 6:59 pm to nolanola
I'm going to defend the electrician. I imagine that bathroom was roughed in long before the Sheetrock, paint, and tile went up. At some point during or after the rough in and before the drywall, paint, and tile went up SOMEBODY in charge would have noticed that the lower 3-gang box was in a bad spot. I have wired many bathrooms just like that one, with even more switches than that. I can't think of one where I had tile that close to the door and encroaching on the switches.
Chances are, sparky didn't know about the tile until it was too late.
Chances are, sparky didn't know about the tile until it was too late.
Posted on 12/2/15 at 7:03 pm to TheAlmightySmash
quote:
There is absolutely no reason you'd need that many switches for a bathroom. I'd redo it correctly. Nothing worse than using a bathroom and flipping 20 switches till you get the one that turns on the light.
I've got 7 in my bathroom, come at me.
Posted on 12/2/15 at 7:03 pm to nolanola
Those are dimmer switches in a bathroom. Why so many?
Posted on 12/2/15 at 7:05 pm to nolanola
Going to need a half inch spacer too raise the box out beyond the edge of the tile, then remount the switches. Then one of those custom plates, they have them at Home Depot.
There should be tile installed around the switches do it doesn't look half arse.
There should be tile installed around the switches do it doesn't look half arse.
This post was edited on 12/2/15 at 7:07 pm
Posted on 12/2/15 at 7:13 pm to nolanola
Dude, it's gonna look like shite but:
Top- 3 gang switch plate.
Bottom- 3 gang plate, toggle-toggle- decora. Might have to use a make up plate which is a plate that can be made in any configuration but will have seams between the switches.
Also, if the tile is as tight as it looks, you might have to adjust the plate, grinder.
Top- 3 gang switch plate.
Bottom- 3 gang plate, toggle-toggle- decora. Might have to use a make up plate which is a plate that can be made in any configuration but will have seams between the switches.
Also, if the tile is as tight as it looks, you might have to adjust the plate, grinder.
Posted on 12/2/15 at 7:16 pm to nolanola
So you can control Waterford III from your bathroom?
Posted on 12/2/15 at 7:17 pm to MikeBRLA
quote:
Heat
Vent
Main light
Vanity light.
What about floor heating and towel rack heater?
Posted on 12/2/15 at 7:19 pm to fightin tigers
I've got those listed above plus one for the walk-in shower and one above the tub.
Posted on 12/2/15 at 7:26 pm to fightin tigers
quote:
What about floor heating and towel rack heater?
All the switches he's showing are dimmers, so they wouldn't if done correctly be installed on a heat load.
The HLV seems to be taken care of via the stack switch, as far as the amount of the other switches, it is kind of comical.
Posted on 12/2/15 at 8:13 pm to nolanola
honestly, I can't stop laughing at that clusterfrick of shite...it looks like something a 5th grader would have done. are you sure you didn't do that yourself?.... 
Posted on 12/2/15 at 8:31 pm to nolanola
Why not use just one switch for all the lights, assuming they are in the same room? Using LED bulbs will use less electricity than a single 60 watt bulb.
Posted on 12/2/15 at 8:40 pm to nolanola
If what you see looks like that, I'd hate to see what you can't see looks like...
Posted on 12/2/15 at 8:53 pm to nolanola
And get you tile guy to fix his misaligned tile job. After your electrician fixes his shite. What is that on the right side of the photo. A wall or a door frame?
Posted on 12/2/15 at 9:06 pm to tigerfoot
This is what happens when.you ask for the best, cheap _______
Posted on 12/2/15 at 11:38 pm to Rouge
I actually have seven switches in my bathroom and then two more in the toilet room. I've got heat, vent, light, vanity light, shower light, tub light and light for the walk-in closet.
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