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Posted on 8/7/18 at 11:03 am to Hopeful Doc
The vent on the back can get clogged and not allow the air to escape. A lot of people say they leave door open, but the tub isn't air tight. There is a vent on the top that goes out the back.
The water at overload level doesn't even go up halfway, and that's a forced run. No cycle puts that much in.
The water at overload level doesn't even go up halfway, and that's a forced run. No cycle puts that much in.
Posted on 8/7/18 at 11:06 am to Areddishfish
That's 2006. That's five generations of machines ago.
That's like telling someone a Pontiac Aztek is a great car because they had a trans am back in the day.
Those early front loaders are still kicking.
The new top loaders are the worst and the used to be the best.
The new front loaders are hit or miss but better than their top load.
A 2006 whirlpool only had one flaw.
The buttons on the control are prone to breakage.
That's like telling someone a Pontiac Aztek is a great car because they had a trans am back in the day.
Those early front loaders are still kicking.
The new top loaders are the worst and the used to be the best.
The new front loaders are hit or miss but better than their top load.
A 2006 whirlpool only had one flaw.
The buttons on the control are prone to breakage.
This post was edited on 8/7/18 at 11:08 am
Posted on 8/7/18 at 11:15 am to Napoleon
Yikes. Can't even get the tech manual yet.
But that's a mode shifter so it looks like the agitator and tub move together like modern machines and not independent like old machines.
Cad, notice the tub assembly is still identical to the early 1980's maytag? Crazy.
But that's a mode shifter so it looks like the agitator and tub move together like modern machines and not independent like old machines.
Cad, notice the tub assembly is still identical to the early 1980's maytag? Crazy.
This post was edited on 8/7/18 at 11:16 am
Posted on 8/7/18 at 11:17 am to Napoleon
It’s been fixed about fives times over the past three months. Hundreds poured into it. I told my landlord his appliance guy doesn’t know what the hell hes doing.
Posted on 8/7/18 at 11:20 am to Napoleon
That’s correct the entire tub moves during agitation. Or at least that’s what it sounds like, I can’t open the lid to see.
Posted on 8/7/18 at 11:21 am to tigersownall
I hate parts changing monkeys.They change common parts they don't diagnose.
Anyone can fix a machine. The skill is in the diagnostics.
But even the best of us have a 4-7% re-call rate.
Anyone can fix a machine. The skill is in the diagnostics.
But even the best of us have a 4-7% re-call rate.
Posted on 8/7/18 at 11:26 am to Napoleon
quote:
it looks like the agitator and tub move together like modern machines
This was the main takeaway from the small business owner in the article I posted. It works for general cleaning, but not for heavily soiled items such as outdoor work clothes.
He had been a staunch SQ seller for 18 years until now, and SQ blackballed him from their internal sites for parts, etc (so he said).
Posted on 8/7/18 at 11:32 am to Napoleon
quote:
Napoleon
Hate to hijack this thread but since it is about appliances, I have a Frigidaire upright freezer, 3 yrs old and it really puts out a lot of heat on outside. I know some heat is normal but I checked it and it was at 103°. The fan is running, it maintains the inside temp as set, but I can not see the coils without some disassembly.
Does that normal to you?
Posted on 8/7/18 at 11:37 am to Napoleon
quote:
Machines that don't have a way of instantly stopping the tub during a spin cycle (brakes) must by law remain locked until the motor has stopped moving plus three seconds.
My Speed Queen (2016/2017 model) doesn't have this locking feature. Are you saying the new SQs no longer have "brakes?"
This post was edited on 8/7/18 at 11:38 am
Posted on 8/7/18 at 11:38 am to meeple
They have made it harder to get their parts. Though 90% of their parts are also sourced but other companies.
Posted on 8/7/18 at 11:41 am to Traveler
What's the ambient temperature in the room it's in?
If room temp (72°) then it's a little high but not in the danger zone.
If in a garage on a hot day, that's normal.
They work harder the higher the external ambient temperature.
Can you remove the toe kick panel and see the coils? Are they dirty, is the external fan running(if there is one)?
If room temp (72°) then it's a little high but not in the danger zone.
If in a garage on a hot day, that's normal.
They work harder the higher the external ambient temperature.
Can you remove the toe kick panel and see the coils? Are they dirty, is the external fan running(if there is one)?
Posted on 8/7/18 at 11:43 am to Napoleon
quote:
Cad, notice the tub assembly is still identical to the early 1980's maytag? Crazy.
nice.
still loving my 03 super capacity plus. thinking of upgrading if i see something better..since nobody realizes the best washing machines out there are practically free on craigslist these days
eta you were right. i bought that lid sensor for no reason. its sitting in the drawer next to my washer..why would i care about it stopping when i lift the lid again?
This post was edited on 8/7/18 at 11:44 am
Posted on 8/7/18 at 11:43 am to meeple
The old ones when you lift the top on spin they stop.
The new one looks like it doesn't have brakes. I don't know because I was too cheap to go to Dallas or Miami to see the new stuff this year.
I won't see one of these for years.
I may only work on ten speed w queens in a year. I'll see twice that many whirlpools in a week.
The new one looks like it doesn't have brakes. I don't know because I was too cheap to go to Dallas or Miami to see the new stuff this year.
I won't see one of these for years.
I may only work on ten speed w queens in a year. I'll see twice that many whirlpools in a week.
Posted on 8/7/18 at 11:43 am to Napoleon
(no message)
This post was edited on 8/7/18 at 11:44 am
Posted on 8/7/18 at 11:47 am to Napoleon
quote:
The new one looks like it doesn't have brakes.
Wow... their changes may go beyond agitator design, then. I'm sure it's cheaper to make the machines without these brakes.
When I was sold my older model SQ, I was also told that the lid lock was imposed because it requires the manufacturer to use less rugged and cheaper parts, since the mechanisms do not have to be rated for as high of a wear cycle (1 cycle meaning 1 start/stop, not wash cycle).
They said the SQs use higher quality parts that are rated for an insane amount of start/stop cycles, so they didn't use lid locks.
This post was edited on 8/7/18 at 11:51 am
Posted on 8/7/18 at 11:47 am to Napoleon
It's in a room that gets pretty warm, water heater, washer/dryer. The fan is running. I think the coils are on the side on this one. I pulled the lower backside panel and saw everything but the coils.
You are probably right with the OAT factored in. It can get pretty warm in there with everything going.
Thanks
You are probably right with the OAT factored in. It can get pretty warm in there with everything going.
Thanks
This post was edited on 8/7/18 at 11:54 am
Posted on 8/7/18 at 11:48 am to High C
The old speed queen motor/trans combo.
video link.
It's the exact design maytag used from 1991-2002. Speed Queen didn't innovate they used what worked.
What I'm hearing now is scary. I may stop recommending them.
Frigidaire stays solid though.
video link.
It's the exact design maytag used from 1991-2002. Speed Queen didn't innovate they used what worked.
What I'm hearing now is scary. I may stop recommending them.
Frigidaire stays solid though.
This post was edited on 8/7/18 at 11:51 am
Posted on 8/7/18 at 11:54 am to Traveler
The coils are either underneath the machine or in the back behind the cover on the opposite side the compressor. Unless it's a fan-less model (the best, IMO) where the coils are exposed on the back of the machine.
Posted on 8/7/18 at 11:58 am to Traveler
Generally they run 20-25 degrees hotter than room they are in.
So normal is about 95.
In a 80 degree room 103 isn't bad.
I've measured 160 on the surface of compressors low on Freon.
One of my first steps in fridge/freezer diagnostics is to use an isolator on the plug and then check amperage. I can tell if compressor is high, not running or if fridge isn't defrosting before I open the fridge.
High amp draw kills the start/run circuit.
High heat is a warning sign of high amperage draw or even a leak or clogged air flow.
So normal is about 95.
In a 80 degree room 103 isn't bad.
I've measured 160 on the surface of compressors low on Freon.
One of my first steps in fridge/freezer diagnostics is to use an isolator on the plug and then check amperage. I can tell if compressor is high, not running or if fridge isn't defrosting before I open the fridge.
High amp draw kills the start/run circuit.
High heat is a warning sign of high amperage draw or even a leak or clogged air flow.
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