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HVAC / Room Temp Question

Posted on 8/24/15 at 12:18 pm
Posted by LSUFanHouston
NOLA
Member since Jul 2009
41707 posts
Posted on 8/24/15 at 12:18 pm
We purchased a home in March. The home is I guess considered 1.5 stories. The front half of the house is two stories with two bedrooms and a bathroom upstairs. The back half of the house has very high ceilings. There is a catwalk along the second floor hallway overlooking the living room.

Both of the two attic access points are located in the same upstairs bedroom. One of them drops down from the ceiling, and the other is located in the back of a closet.

This room is much warmer than the rest of the house. Neither of the two access doors seal very tightly when closed. The previous owner has put an insulation "tent" covering the opening in the ceiling access (so when you pull down the stairs, the first thing you see is this tent. They also put insulation on the backside of the closet access door.

What other things should we look at in trying to get the temp down? My wife (no pics) is on me to try to find a solution and is convinced it's so hot in that room because of the attic access points are leaking hot air into the room.

Also, should we call an a/c guy to come out and look at it?
Posted by fightin tigers
Downtown Prairieville
Member since Mar 2008
79888 posts
Posted on 8/24/15 at 12:20 pm to
Insulation
Posted by cajunangelle
Member since Oct 2012
171178 posts
Posted on 8/24/15 at 12:26 pm to
add a mini-split AC to the room.

or put a return duct up high to pull the heat out. call an AC company for an estimate.

if you don't want a lot of expense, pain in the butt, add a window unit.
Posted by N2cars
Member since Feb 2008
40412 posts
Posted on 8/24/15 at 12:37 pm to
quote:

add a mini-split AC to the room


Last resort.


OP should call an AC gut, but it sounds like the units weren't sized right b/c of high ceilings.

Just a guess based on limited info...
Posted by weadjust
Member since Aug 2012
15818 posts
Posted on 8/24/15 at 12:43 pm to
Get a non contact thermometer from Harbor Freight for $10 to figure out where the heat is coming from. My hall was 6-8 degrees warmer than the rest of the house. Interior hall wall where thermostat is mounted was getting up to 89-90 degrees on really hot days. Looked in attic and found blown in insulation had fallen into a 2" gap between two wall partitions allowing 120+ attic air into the wall cavity. 2 cans of spray foam solved my problem.

Harbor Freight
Posted by Isabelle
Member since Jul 2012
2726 posts
Posted on 8/24/15 at 1:09 pm to
We are in a two story home that has master bedroom and bath on second story. The biggest problem we have is how hot the stairway gets. There are no A/C vents on the stairway and two large windows. We have found that keeping the bedroom door closed keeps it cool, preventing the hot air in the stairway from entering the room.

We also closed A/C vents that are in closets, since they don't need to be kept cool. If I remember correctly, the physics of air movement is from hot to cold. It might help to seal off the attic access doors or have foam insulation put in. We have foam insulation blown in under the house last week. Hoping it keep the house warmer in winter.
Posted by N2cars
Member since Feb 2008
40412 posts
Posted on 8/24/15 at 1:12 pm to
quote:

Neither of the two access doors seal very tightly when closed.


They should have weather tight seals.
Posted by MightyYat
StB Garden District
Member since Jan 2009
25029 posts
Posted on 8/24/15 at 1:14 pm to
quote:

We have found that keeping the bedroom door closed keeps it cool


Big no no in HVAC land. Decreasing air circulation in your home is actually causing your unit to work harder.
Posted by cajunangelle
Member since Oct 2012
171178 posts
Posted on 8/24/15 at 1:16 pm to
quote:

add a mini-split AC to the room


Last resort.


OP should call an AC guy, but it sounds like the units weren't sized right b/c of high ceilings.

Just a guess based on limited info...


agreed. was thinking of the least expensive fix.
This post was edited on 8/24/15 at 1:19 pm
Posted by Old Sarge
Dean of Admissions, LSU
Member since Jan 2012
63525 posts
Posted on 8/24/15 at 1:17 pm to
Weather stripping around the attic doors



When the AC is running it is drawing in hot air through the cracks thus making the room warmer.


Also does this room face the afternoon sun more than the others?
Posted by LSUFanHouston
NOLA
Member since Jul 2009
41707 posts
Posted on 8/24/15 at 1:33 pm to
quote:

Weather stripping around the attic doors


Same type used for exterior doors? That's easy enough.

quote:

Also does this room face the afternoon sun more than the others?


The window in the room faces the south. The part of the house that is 2 story is on the eastern side of the house, generally.
Posted by N2cars
Member since Feb 2008
40412 posts
Posted on 8/24/15 at 1:34 pm to
After having a mini-split for a small workout room, I'm not enamored with them.

It was a good solution for my situation, but I'd look hard before I did it again.
Posted by Old Sarge
Dean of Admissions, LSU
Member since Jan 2012
63525 posts
Posted on 8/24/15 at 2:27 pm to
Yeah, just get the wide foam rubber tape stuff. Open the door and put it around the edge of the inside (or upside) of the door so that when it's closed it is compressing the foam tape between the door and it's frame.
Posted by weadjust
Member since Aug 2012
15818 posts
Posted on 8/24/15 at 2:30 pm to
I taped some Reflectix R21 16-in x 25-ft Unfaced Roll Insulation on the attic door and back side of closet door where HVAC unit is located. Use the aluminum duct tape. I have half a roll I will sell cheap

Posted by DeoreDX
Member since Oct 2010
4383 posts
Posted on 8/24/15 at 3:27 pm to
quote:

We also closed A/C vents that are in closets, since they don't need to be kept cool.


Not a good idea. Keep them open.
Posted by Spock's Eyebrow
Member since May 2012
12300 posts
Posted on 8/24/15 at 3:43 pm to
quote:

Not a good idea. Keep them open.


Layman's understanding...

It's not a good idea because it increases the static pressure the fan has to work against. For a fixed speed fan, it will reduce its output, while a variable speed fan may use more electricity. If the open ductwork isn't adequate, you'll get less air through it, while if it can handle the increased pressure, the air will move out faster, and it may seem drafty. In extreme cases, the charge might even need to be adjusted.

Closing doors to rooms OTOH is OK, IF they have sufficient return air path. Most don't, relying on an inadequate door undercut, and the system makes up the return air from the attic and outdoors through holes in the building envelope. If you're buying a house, and you see the master suite with a bunch of registers, your question should be, "Where's the fricking dedicated return for this area of the house?" If there isn't one, and there often isn't, closing that bedroom door is going to kill your AC performance and probably be noisy as hell as the air from that pressurized room tries to escape under and around the door. A room with a single register will probably be OK, though.
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