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Started By
Message
ETA OT electricians DELIVER! - pool house has light & light switch THANKS
Posted on 2/29/16 at 10:03 am
Posted on 2/29/16 at 10:03 am
wiring goes to the socket and then to the switch.
there's only 2 wires & a ground.
no neutral.
i *KNOW* its been against codes for 20 years to bootleg a neutral from a ground (for very good reasons like...oh..DEATH by electrocution) but i am getting conflicting answers as to whether it *MAY* be ok in certain situations given the switch is at the end of a run.
eta i am trying to hook up a zwave/smart switch which requires constant power AKA neutral to listen for on/off commands.
TIA and let me help shorten the first page of this
OP is trashy
OP is an idiot
OP should have amazon prime send him an electrician
OP is bragging about his house
there's only 2 wires & a ground.
no neutral.
i *KNOW* its been against codes for 20 years to bootleg a neutral from a ground (for very good reasons like...oh..DEATH by electrocution) but i am getting conflicting answers as to whether it *MAY* be ok in certain situations given the switch is at the end of a run.
eta i am trying to hook up a zwave/smart switch which requires constant power AKA neutral to listen for on/off commands.
TIA and let me help shorten the first page of this
OP is trashy
OP is an idiot
OP should have amazon prime send him an electrician
OP is bragging about his house
This post was edited on 2/29/16 at 10:34 am
7
Posted on 2/29/16 at 10:05 am to CAD703X
Is there a question or point to that nonsense?
Posted on 2/29/16 at 10:08 am to cave canem
quote:
Is there a question or point to that nonsense?
umm, yes. did you miss it? asking about using the ground as a neutral in this application.
Posted on 2/29/16 at 10:10 am to CAD703X
two wires and a ground is 1 hot, 1 NEUTRAL, and 1 ground.
Posted on 2/29/16 at 10:12 am to shawnlsu
quote:
wo wires and a ground is 1 hot, 1 NEUTRAL, and 1 ground.
It could be a 240V light.
Red, Black and a Bare ground without a white neutral.
Posted on 2/29/16 at 10:13 am to CAD703X
You have a neutral dumbass, you need to hire someone as you have no fricking clue about what you are doing or talking about.
Posted on 2/29/16 at 10:13 am to CAD703X
I'm no electrician, but I've installed some new wiring and lights in my home.
The wiring should go to the switch, then to the socket. The hot wire is routed through the light switch so it can be turned on and off. I'm not sure I understand how your's is routed.
The wiring should go to the switch, then to the socket. The hot wire is routed through the light switch so it can be turned on and off. I'm not sure I understand how your's is routed.
Posted on 2/29/16 at 10:15 am to Dan Bilzerian
quote:
It could be a 240V light.
Red, Black and a Bare ground without a white neutral.
Possible but not at all likely for a light inside a pool shed to be anything other than 110/120
Posted on 2/29/16 at 10:15 am to CAD703X
You have 3 wires? What color are they?
Posted on 2/29/16 at 10:15 am to shawnlsu
quote:
two wires and a ground is 1 hot, 1 NEUTRAL, and 1 ground.
then how does the switch operate?
Posted on 2/29/16 at 10:16 am to shawnlsu
quote:
two wires and a ground is 1 hot, 1 NEUTRAL, and 1 ground.
are the wire coated any specific colors? Typical 110 V residential is black (hot) white (neutral) bare wire ground.
Posted on 2/29/16 at 10:17 am to bhtigerfan
its one long white romex line to the little poolhouse about 75ft away from my house.
it comes out of the ground to an outlet, then up the wall to the screw-in light fixture, then down to the switch on the wall where it terminates at the electrical box. that's it. no other lines as this is simply tacked to the walls as there is no interior dry wall or anything.
there is a white, black & ground.
if i hook the white and black to the LOAD and LINE the light comes on. ...however it never turns off even clicking the switch.
so the switch won't work.
just trying to see if there's a way to get it to work without having to go back to a simple 'break the connection' 25 cent switch.
thats all.
it comes out of the ground to an outlet, then up the wall to the screw-in light fixture, then down to the switch on the wall where it terminates at the electrical box. that's it. no other lines as this is simply tacked to the walls as there is no interior dry wall or anything.
there is a white, black & ground.
if i hook the white and black to the LOAD and LINE the light comes on. ...however it never turns off even clicking the switch.
so the switch won't work.
just trying to see if there's a way to get it to work without having to go back to a simple 'break the connection' 25 cent switch.
thats all.
This post was edited on 2/29/16 at 10:19 am
Posted on 2/29/16 at 10:20 am to CAD703X
i'd fish a neutral that runs from the fixture (tied to existing neutrals) to the switch box if possible. i'm no electrician, so i can't answer about using the ground instead. i haven't had that problem in my house - it's super old and i have very few ground wires.
Posted on 2/29/16 at 10:21 am to CAD703X
You wired it backwards. It should go from the outlet to the switch and then to the light.
Now that I understand what you are saying, I'm not sure how the light ever turns off.
Now that I understand what you are saying, I'm not sure how the light ever turns off.
Posted on 2/29/16 at 10:21 am to lsuCJ5
quote:This.
are the wire coated any specific colors? Typical 110 V residential is black (hot) white (neutral) bare wire ground.
The wires that are "hot" or supply electricity go into one side of the light switch, and the other wires to the socket plug into the other side of the light switch. The switch cuts the contacts of the hot (black) wire going to the socket.
Posted on 2/29/16 at 10:22 am to lsujro
quote:
i'd fish a neutral that runs from the fixture
He has a neutral, just has no idea what he is looking at and too dumb to hire someone that knows what they are doing.
Posted on 2/29/16 at 10:22 am to lsujro
quote:
i'd fish a neutral that runs from the fixture (tied to existing neutrals) to the switch box if possible. i'm no electrician, so i can't answer about using the ground instead. i haven't had that problem in my house - it's super old and i have very few ground wires.
ok so the line is only maybe 10 feet of romex from the light to the switch, just stapled to the 2x4s.
you think i could simply replace that run with a cable that would contain everything i need?
i've never dealt with a switch that doesnt have line, load & neutral before.
Posted on 2/29/16 at 10:23 am to CAD703X
Switch leg neutral goes to hot when it's done this way. All they're doing is bringing their hot to the light first.
Posted on 2/29/16 at 10:24 am to shawnlsu
quote:
You wired it backwards. It should go from the outlet to the switch and then to the light.
Now that I understand what you are saying, I'm not sure how the light ever turns off.
the white is his load. power is into the fixture box, not the switch box. black to the box likely tied to black in switch, white runs back from switch directly into fixture. it's a PITA, but not uncommon.
Posted on 2/29/16 at 10:24 am to bhtigerfan
quote:
The wires that are "hot" or supply electricity go into one side of the light switch, and the other wires to the socket plug into the other side of the light switch. The switch cuts the contacts of the hot (black) wire going to the socket.
thats how it worked before because the 19 cent switch just broke the connection.
i'm just trying to figure out if i can use a switch requiring constant power in this application or if i'm stuck.
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