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Message
re: ETA OT electricians DELIVER! - pool house has light & light switch THANKS
Posted on 2/29/16 at 10:25 am to CAD703X
Posted on 2/29/16 at 10:25 am to CAD703X
quote:You may be looking at this arse backwards. Does the line feeding electricity to the pool house come into the electrical box first?
it comes out of the ground to an outlet, then up the wall to the screw-in light fixture, then down to the switch on the wall where it terminates at the electrical box.
This post was edited on 2/29/16 at 10:27 am
0
Posted on 2/29/16 at 10:25 am to CAD703X
Again I highly recommend you don't do this yourself.
The black is in fact load, line however should be the wire taking the current to the required destination not the neutral, you should have popped a breaker by trying this if you established a circuit (flipped the switch).
The black is in fact load, line however should be the wire taking the current to the required destination not the neutral, you should have popped a breaker by trying this if you established a circuit (flipped the switch).
Posted on 2/29/16 at 10:25 am to cave canem
quote:
You have a neutral dumbass, you need to hire someone as you have no fricking clue about what you are doing or talking about.
quote:
the white is his load. power is into the fixture box, not the switch box. black to the box likely tied to black in switch, white runs back from switch directly into fixture.
This post was edited on 2/29/16 at 10:26 am
Posted on 2/29/16 at 10:26 am to CAD703X
quote:
i've never dealt with a switch that doesnt have line, load & neutral before.
This is the last time I'm going to say it so pay attention.
You have a black (hot), a white (neutral) and a bare (ground). You wired your "pool house" wrong because you have no idea what you are doing. Hire an electrician to come fix your frick up.
Posted on 2/29/16 at 10:26 am to CAD703X
quote:
ok so the line is only maybe 10 feet of romex from the light to the switch, just stapled to the 2x4s.
you think i could simply replace that run with a cable that would contain everything i need?
i've never dealt with a switch that doesnt have line, load & neutral before.
yeah get some 4 wire romex and tie a neutral to the neutrals in the fixture box. black tied to power in fixture box and ran to switch, red back from switch to fixture.
eta i had to do something similar recently, except i was trying to add a fixture. couldn't jump power from other switches because it was wired like yours, so i had to run a couple new lines. if yours is exposed it will be easy.
This post was edited on 2/29/16 at 10:29 am
Posted on 2/29/16 at 10:27 am to shawnlsu
quote:
You have a black (hot), a white (neutral) and a bare (ground). You wired your "pool house" wrong because you have no idea what you are doing. Hire an electrician to come fix your frick up.
i'm assuming he didn't wire his own house given that he started this thread. and you clearly don't know much about it either
Posted on 2/29/16 at 10:28 am to lsujro
quote:
yeah get some 4 wire romex and tie a neutral to the neutrals in the fixture box. black tied to power in fixture box and ran to switch, red back from switch to fixture.
In other words, jerry rig your wiring.
Posted on 2/29/16 at 10:29 am to CAD703X
Why are you quoting someone else's statement to me?
Posted on 2/29/16 at 10:30 am to cave canem
levtion switch has 4 screws:
BLACK - Line/Hot
WHITE - Neutral
RED - Load
YELLOW - Terminal (used for 3 way, i'm not using this)
i attached black to hot, white to neutral and the light comes on and stays on. pushing switch does nothing.
attaching white wire to Load/Red screw does nothing.
trying to figure out if its possible given my current configuration to either
(a) pull a different cable from the light itself
(b) use whats in the box
(c) forget it and put the 19 cent switch back
BLACK - Line/Hot
WHITE - Neutral
RED - Load
YELLOW - Terminal (used for 3 way, i'm not using this)
i attached black to hot, white to neutral and the light comes on and stays on. pushing switch does nothing.
attaching white wire to Load/Red screw does nothing.
trying to figure out if its possible given my current configuration to either
(a) pull a different cable from the light itself
(b) use whats in the box
(c) forget it and put the 19 cent switch back
Posted on 2/29/16 at 10:30 am to shawnlsu
quote:
In other words, jerry rig your wiring.
how is that jerry rigged? as long as it is tied in a junction box rated for the number of wires, there is no issue.
Posted on 2/29/16 at 10:31 am to shawnlsu
quote:
You have a black (hot), a white (neutral) and a bare (ground). You wired your "pool house" wrong because you have no idea what you are doing.
pool house was wired 30 years ago and has been working all this time.
calm down dude, i'm just trying to swap a light switch, not rewire the city of dallas.
Posted on 2/29/16 at 10:31 am to lsujro
quote:
yeah get some 4 wire romex and tie a neutral to the neutrals in the fixture box. black tied to power in fixture box and ran to switch, red back from switch to fixture.
eta i had to do something similar recently, except i was trying to add a fixture. couldn't jump power from other switches because it was wired like yours, so i had to run a couple new lines. if yours is exposed it will be easy.
this is EXACTLY what i was hoping.
thanks.
Posted on 2/29/16 at 10:32 am to shawnlsu
quote:
In other words, jerry rig your wiring.
you just cant stand to be wrong can you
Posted on 2/29/16 at 11:04 am to lsujro
quote:
yeah get some 4 wire romex and tie a neutral to the neutrals in the fixture box. black tied to power in fixture box and ran to switch, red back from switch to fixture.
eta i had to do something similar recently, except i was trying to add a fixture. couldn't jump power from other switches because it was wired like yours, so i had to run a couple new lines. if yours is exposed it will be easy.
Hell, just use a jumper if you are going to go after it that way.
Posted on 2/29/16 at 11:11 am to cave canem
quote:
Hell, just use a jumper if you are going to go after it that way.
how
Posted on 2/29/16 at 11:13 am to CAD703X
quote:
how
i think he means just running one neutral from fixture to switch box. that is all you need, but it wouldn't be protected from elements and most definitely not code. the four wire romex is same thing, except the neutral would be in the sheathing.
Posted on 2/29/16 at 11:16 am to lsujro
quote:
i think he means just running one neutral from fixture to switch box. that is all you need, but it wouldn't be protected from elements and most definitely not code. the four wire romex is same thing, except the neutral would be in the sheathing.
gotcha. i've used those 'add-a-wire' kits in the past to add a C wire for thermostats that didn't have one and was wondering if this was something similar.
yeah i'd rather just run the 4-wire romex. its super easy given the application and shouldn't cost more than a few bucks for 10 feet.
Posted on 2/29/16 at 11:18 am to lsujro
You do realize they sell sheathed single wires right?
Why would he need a new run to the supply panel if he is in essence going to just run a jumper anyway?
Why would he need a new run to the supply panel if he is in essence going to just run a jumper anyway?
Posted on 2/29/16 at 11:20 am to CAD703X
Go at it as you wish, good luck and keep a fire extinguisher handy.
Posted on 2/29/16 at 11:21 am to CAD703X
The light needs a neutral the switch doesn't ....
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