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Catalytic converter question…
Posted on 1/26/23 at 11:23 pm
Posted on 1/26/23 at 11:23 pm
CEL came on last week, and the manual code check didn’t show anything. Took it by Auto Zone and their scanner shows it to be the catalytic converter. I haven’t experienced any abnormal performance issues, and the only thing that has changed is the CEL.
113k miles on the vehicle, which I’ve read is about when the CC usually goes out? I’m basically asking if there are any other ways to check to see if it is actually the CC before I have to drop $1500 on replacement when it seems like there’s nothing wrong.
113k miles on the vehicle, which I’ve read is about when the CC usually goes out? I’m basically asking if there are any other ways to check to see if it is actually the CC before I have to drop $1500 on replacement when it seems like there’s nothing wrong.
10
Posted on 1/26/23 at 11:42 pm to br_1560
Dumb, but appropriate question, but are you sure the catalytic converter is still there?
This post was edited on 1/26/23 at 11:44 pm
Posted on 1/26/23 at 11:53 pm to LegendInMyMind
Good question if op lives on Wire Rd in Auburn.
Posted on 1/26/23 at 11:56 pm to br_1560
To address your question...sensor before and after Cat can make the cel come on but that doesn't mean your Cat failed. Emissions test is the only way to show that. Take it to a mechanic.
Also a scanner is only 20- 40 bucks to read your own codes. BTW what was the code they said yours had?
Also a scanner is only 20- 40 bucks to read your own codes. BTW what was the code they said yours had?
Posted on 1/27/23 at 12:25 am to br_1560
On a car with that milage running well....
You Tube has dozens of "How to Clean Your Catalytic Convertor" videos.
Auto Zone sells cat cleaners ask them which they like.
If all that fails, lacquer thinner can work but be careful you don't blow out your O2 sensors. Instructions on You Tube in several videos..
Just a little research and twenty bucks might save you $1,500.
Good luck.
You Tube has dozens of "How to Clean Your Catalytic Convertor" videos.
Auto Zone sells cat cleaners ask them which they like.
If all that fails, lacquer thinner can work but be careful you don't blow out your O2 sensors. Instructions on You Tube in several videos..
Just a little research and twenty bucks might save you $1,500.
Good luck.
Posted on 1/27/23 at 2:41 am to br_1560
Go to an Autozone and pick up a bottle of Cataclean.
I had the P0420 code on my car so I went bought some Cataclean and it worked great. The instructions tell you to drive around for a little while after applying it, so I did and it sounded like gravel was falling from the bottom of my car as I was driving. Cleaned out the CC pretty good.
I had the P0420 code on my car so I went bought some Cataclean and it worked great. The instructions tell you to drive around for a little while after applying it, so I did and it sounded like gravel was falling from the bottom of my car as I was driving. Cleaned out the CC pretty good.
Posted on 1/27/23 at 2:49 am to br_1560
Are you sure it's the cat and not the o2 sensors? I would double check just to be sure before dropping that much. I would take it to a shop. I wouldn't put too much stock in what auto zone says.
Posted on 1/27/23 at 5:13 am to br_1560
quote:
I’m basically asking if there are any other ways to check to see if it is actually the CC before I have to drop $1500 on replacement
Flow test by a muffler shop
Posted on 1/27/23 at 5:54 am to br_1560
Get a new 02 sensor, and a gas cap. Run a tank of super unleaded through it.
Posted on 1/27/23 at 6:29 am to br_1560
For GM vehicles (Chev Equinox & GMC Terrain is what we've seen the most) with catalytic converter codes I recommend using BG 44K that you can purchase from Amazon. We used this many times and I can only think of 3 vehicles where this didn't work...and that was due to the system being totally blocked and all exhaust being pushed back thru to the engine. So if you try this early on and before you reach the point of total restriction you should have no more issues for a while. Then I would add a can every 20-25k miles at fill-up.
Pour (2 cans) of it in your fuel tank and then fill up. This stuff really helps burn off carbon build-up on internal valves/pistons; fuel injectors and burns the carbon build-up in exhaust(Cats). The longer the product remains in your fuel system, the better.
Some vehicles may exhibit a rough idle (depending on mileage) after mixing however it has not affected performance (acceleration) under load. The "rough idle" is an indicator that its doing the job of dissolving the carbon and cleaning the fuel delivery and exhaust system.
BG 43K via Amazon
Pour (2 cans) of it in your fuel tank and then fill up. This stuff really helps burn off carbon build-up on internal valves/pistons; fuel injectors and burns the carbon build-up in exhaust(Cats). The longer the product remains in your fuel system, the better.
Some vehicles may exhibit a rough idle (depending on mileage) after mixing however it has not affected performance (acceleration) under load. The "rough idle" is an indicator that its doing the job of dissolving the carbon and cleaning the fuel delivery and exhaust system.
BG 43K via Amazon
Posted on 1/27/23 at 7:00 am to br_1560
What's your P-code?
You can check temperature immediately before and after the catalytic. Should only be about 100F (40c) difference. Greater than that could indicate clogged catalytic.
You can check temperature immediately before and after the catalytic. Should only be about 100F (40c) difference. Greater than that could indicate clogged catalytic.
This post was edited on 1/27/23 at 7:30 am
Posted on 1/27/23 at 7:01 am to br_1560
Buy a bluetooth scanner.
Download torque pro.
Fill up with gas and a can of berrymans Chem tool fuel additive.
Set torque pro to watch O2 sensor temp.
Drive really hard, keeping rpms high, downshift if you need to. Watch the temps. Get them above 1200 degrees and keep them there.
You'll be able to burn off a large amount of the contaminants. I do it for an entire tank of fuel leading up to emissions testing. And then refill and continue to run hard until tested.
Carbon burns off between 1200 and 1400 degrees. Unlikely you can get to 1400 consistently.
Download torque pro.
Fill up with gas and a can of berrymans Chem tool fuel additive.
Set torque pro to watch O2 sensor temp.
Drive really hard, keeping rpms high, downshift if you need to. Watch the temps. Get them above 1200 degrees and keep them there.
You'll be able to burn off a large amount of the contaminants. I do it for an entire tank of fuel leading up to emissions testing. And then refill and continue to run hard until tested.
Carbon burns off between 1200 and 1400 degrees. Unlikely you can get to 1400 consistently.
Posted on 1/27/23 at 8:26 am to X123F45
Jack the vehicle up and place on jack stands.
Crank the vehicle and let it run for about 10 minutes to warm up completely. After warming up, get under the vehicle with it still running and with infrared thermometer ,(you can get them cheap at HF) point the laser about two inches before the cat on the exhaust pipe. Jot down the temp.
Then put it about 2 inches past the cat on the exhaust pipe and record the temp there. It should be about 100 to 110 degrees hotter than the inlet temp before the cat if it is working correctly.
It is highly unlikely the cat is bad unless it has been smashed by driving over something. Generally what causes a cat to go out is either physical damage or an engine issue such as running to too rich, lots of blow by, etc, thus clogging the cat.
I would purchase a cheap ODB2 scanner if I were you and see if the codes come up mentioning sensors, odds are the O2 sensors either before or after the cat need replacing.
Crank the vehicle and let it run for about 10 minutes to warm up completely. After warming up, get under the vehicle with it still running and with infrared thermometer ,(you can get them cheap at HF) point the laser about two inches before the cat on the exhaust pipe. Jot down the temp.
Then put it about 2 inches past the cat on the exhaust pipe and record the temp there. It should be about 100 to 110 degrees hotter than the inlet temp before the cat if it is working correctly.
It is highly unlikely the cat is bad unless it has been smashed by driving over something. Generally what causes a cat to go out is either physical damage or an engine issue such as running to too rich, lots of blow by, etc, thus clogging the cat.
I would purchase a cheap ODB2 scanner if I were you and see if the codes come up mentioning sensors, odds are the O2 sensors either before or after the cat need replacing.
This post was edited on 1/27/23 at 8:29 am
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