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Car A/C question
Posted on 6/17/18 at 7:29 am
Posted on 6/17/18 at 7:29 am
The A/C in my wife’s 2014 Acadia started going out a couple weeks ago. It just wasn’t getting as cold as it should. When we had it in the shop for an oil change they told us it would need a new compressor and front and rear expansion valves and the job would cost $1400. Since then it’s actually been working fine. Any insights?
9
Posted on 6/17/18 at 7:31 am to FishQuiz
My insight is to not buy GM vehicles if their ac can't last 4 years. Any warranty left?
Posted on 6/17/18 at 7:32 am to FishQuiz
He was bending you over
Posted on 6/17/18 at 7:37 am to FishQuiz
Go to a reliable shop for a proper diagnosis. In BR I'd go to AGCO
Posted on 6/17/18 at 7:45 am to FishQuiz
It’s been raining more and cooled off a little the past 2 weeks. Wait until the temps get back into the upper 90s
It could have been something stuck in the blend door too.
It could have been something stuck in the blend door too.
Posted on 6/17/18 at 8:19 am to FishQuiz
Happened to me. May have a slow coolant leak. Prolly was temporarily fixed when they added coolant to diagnose the problem.
Posted on 6/17/18 at 8:44 am to FishQuiz
I have a stuck blend door on the passenger side of my f150. Shop manuals say 10hr labor job to fix $20 part. So you could have that....
Posted on 6/17/18 at 8:45 am to FishQuiz
Probably went out because the blinker fluid got too hot. Once it cooled, the ac starting working fine again.
Posted on 6/17/18 at 9:12 am to FishQuiz
Someone told me yesterday there is some sort of class-action suit against GM for faulty A/C units. He had a 2015 Silverado with the same issue you described, and he's waiting to see what happens with the suit first. He thought there would be a recall eventually
Posted on 6/17/18 at 9:25 am to FishQuiz
It could be something as simple as a clogged condensation drain too. Has happened to me with 2 Misubishi's 25 years apart.
If they fail to drain you'll 1st notice lack of cooling. Eventually you'll get water in the floor from overflow, especially when turning corners. Then the undrained condensation will rust the bearing on the fan motor and you'll not even have a fan blowing.
1980 Plymouth Sapporo I replaced the fan 6 times in 8 years. Wasn't that hard, most of it involved taking apart the dash and then reassembling. 2009 Eclipse I wasn't as limber and much busier in life so let a couple shops replace it 2x.
2nd shop put it on a lift and ran a pipe cleaner up the drain tube (engine compartment firewall near steering assembly). Made a big puddle on the garage floor at their shop just from a 1 block drive. Just a bit of mold, enough to cover end of pipe cleaner, had grown at the drain outlet and plugged it up. Of course 3 days later once it dried out the rust caused fan bearing to seize.
Do it yourself replacement is like $150. Shop does it, $600.
If they fail to drain you'll 1st notice lack of cooling. Eventually you'll get water in the floor from overflow, especially when turning corners. Then the undrained condensation will rust the bearing on the fan motor and you'll not even have a fan blowing.
1980 Plymouth Sapporo I replaced the fan 6 times in 8 years. Wasn't that hard, most of it involved taking apart the dash and then reassembling. 2009 Eclipse I wasn't as limber and much busier in life so let a couple shops replace it 2x.
2nd shop put it on a lift and ran a pipe cleaner up the drain tube (engine compartment firewall near steering assembly). Made a big puddle on the garage floor at their shop just from a 1 block drive. Just a bit of mold, enough to cover end of pipe cleaner, had grown at the drain outlet and plugged it up. Of course 3 days later once it dried out the rust caused fan bearing to seize.
Do it yourself replacement is like $150. Shop does it, $600.
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