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re: Any HVAC Professionals here? [Updated - Evap Coil Pics pg 4]
Posted on 9/18/18 at 11:07 am to Klark Kent
Posted on 9/18/18 at 11:07 am to Klark Kent
It occurred to me looking more at your drawing that if you have a leak in the roof penetration for the sewer vent, the water's going to follow that plastic pipe down and tend to want to drip where you have your drips drawn. Go up in your attic and look at the underside of the roof decking where that sewer vent penetrates to make sure you don't see signs of water intrusion. Don't just focus on looking right around the pipe, though you want to look at that area well. If the leak is higher up on the roof, it could follow the underside of the roof until it gets to the pipe and follows it down, so look for signs of that as well.
As others have said, PVC line shouldn't sweat because there's nothing cold in it. It would be easy to conflate a leaking vent penetration with the HVAC problems, especially if the leak is only noticeable during the really rainy warm parts of the year when your AC is going to be running.
As others have said, PVC line shouldn't sweat because there's nothing cold in it. It would be easy to conflate a leaking vent penetration with the HVAC problems, especially if the leak is only noticeable during the really rainy warm parts of the year when your AC is going to be running.
This post was edited on 9/18/18 at 11:11 am
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Posted on 9/18/18 at 11:08 am to Klark Kent
Just a note, if you go outside, the 3/8 will be hot at the unit. The 3/4 will be cold. Is the big line cold at the condenser?
Posted on 9/18/18 at 11:09 am to baldona
quote:
If your pvc runs vertical, you can tie a rag or towel around it and see if that stops the dripping. This will let you know if the water is running down the pipe or if its actually sweating. Even with ice in there, I'm still not convinced that 2" PVC would sweat though.
hmmm. why didn't i think of that before.
i'll do that this afternoon. since i have that hole in the 2nd floor wall with the pipe in it. I'm going to tie a rag around it.
but again. if this was a plumbing issue, wouldn't it have leaked during the late fall, winter, and spring. like it's a hole in our ceiling in the living room. if you are in there you can see it drip every 2 minutes or so or see the tiny puddle on the floor.
Posted on 9/18/18 at 11:14 am to Sao
do the extra pics on the bottom of page 2 help any?
quote:
It occurred to me looking more at your drawing that if you have a leak in the roof penetration for the sewer vent, the water's going to follow that plastic pipe down and tend to want to drip where you have your drips drawn. Go up in your attic and look at the underside of the roof decking where that sewer vent penetrates to make sure you don't see signs of water intrusion. Don't just focus on looking right around the pipe, though you want to look at that area well. If the leak is higher up on the roof, it could follow the underside of the roof until it gets to the pipe and follows it down, so look for signs of that as well.
i'll certainly go up there and look this afternoon at the roof near where that drain line goes thru the roof, but we went thru Harvey this time last year. Something like 25" in 3.5 days. and the problem wasn't a problem during that time, because it was 80-85 degrees outside.
quote:
As others have said, PVC line shouldn't sweat because there's nothing cold in it. It would be easy to conflate a leaking vent penetration with the HVAC problems, especially if the leak is only noticeable during the really rainy warm parts of the year when your AC is going to be running.
well. it's where the AC condensate line runs to. hits a pee trap, then goes into the 2" pvc drain line. When i pick up the condensate line out of the pee trap. and feel the temp of a drip of water. it's cold. not freezing. but like cold as the water out of your fridge.
quote:
Just a note, if you go outside, the 3/8 will be hot at the unit. The 3/4 will be cold. Is the big line cold at the condenser?
i'm at the office today. but can check later. and i don't have a pic of the back of the A/C unit. Sorry, i should have.
when i re-insulated that 3/4" pipe in the pic on the bottom of the 2nd page. I ran my hand up and down the 1/4" copper pipe next to and it's not hot or cold really.
This post was edited on 9/18/18 at 11:16 am
Posted on 9/18/18 at 11:45 am to Klark Kent
quote:
so this is where i'm doing a really poor job of explaining all of this.
there are 2 lines.
1 1/4" copper line (what i assume is Freon).
another wrapped and insulated line that i think is 3/4th".
Yes, there will be 2 lines going to your condenser/outside unit....one liquid line and one gas line. (Freon in a liquid state and freon in a gaseous state).
Posted on 9/18/18 at 11:52 am to NASA_ISS_Tiger
That makes more sense. Which is which?
Posted on 9/18/18 at 11:57 am to Klark Kent
First off its a P-trap not pee.
Is that oil or water on your hand in the pic?
If your system is losing 5lbs a month then you should be able to easily track that down. If the evaporator coil is leaking get it replaced.
Now for your condensate problem, go ahead and insulate your P-trap and drain line with insulation tape. This will keep the condensate from forming. If its still making water then you have a leak.
Is that oil or water on your hand in the pic?
If your system is losing 5lbs a month then you should be able to easily track that down. If the evaporator coil is leaking get it replaced.
Now for your condensate problem, go ahead and insulate your P-trap and drain line with insulation tape. This will keep the condensate from forming. If its still making water then you have a leak.
Posted on 9/18/18 at 12:11 pm to JusTrollin
dumb question: what am I looking for when I’m looking for an evaporator coil?
And that substance on my hand is an oil like substance from when I replaced the insulation on that 3/8” or 3/4” refrigerant line running from the inside unit to the outside unit or vice versa
I mean I could insulate the p-trap.
the pipe from the attic a/c unit to the p-trap is insulated. but I can’t insulate the vertical drain line between the attic and 1st floor ceiling. It runs between the 2nd floor walls.
And that substance on my hand is an oil like substance from when I replaced the insulation on that 3/8” or 3/4” refrigerant line running from the inside unit to the outside unit or vice versa
quote:
Now for your condensate problem, go ahead and insulate your P-trap and drain line with insulation tape. This will keep the condensate from forming. If its still making water then you have a leak.
I mean I could insulate the p-trap.
the pipe from the attic a/c unit to the p-trap is insulated. but I can’t insulate the vertical drain line between the attic and 1st floor ceiling. It runs between the 2nd floor walls.
This post was edited on 9/18/18 at 12:17 pm
Posted on 9/18/18 at 12:16 pm to Klark Kent
Hey Klark. Here’s something to take a look at if you decide to replace your whole system. There are higher efficiency units of course but I think this is a great starting point for price/value. You can find that company online.
This post was edited on 9/18/18 at 12:18 pm
Posted on 9/18/18 at 12:18 pm to Klark Kent
quote:
That makes more sense. Which is which?
Small is liquid return, big is condensate. Small is hot, big, cold.
Posted on 9/18/18 at 12:22 pm to Klark Kent
So the oil is a good telltale of a possible refrigerant leak. The compressor oil circulates throughout the system while it is running.
I can tell you don't know enough about this to fix it yourself but you may at least be able to locate the leak and save some potential time for a contractor. I would start by trying to locate the source of the oil. You may have to pull off some of that insulation. It could be a pinhole in the lineset from when it was originally pulled. I would also check all the solder joints with either soapy water or gas leak sniffer.
The evaporator coil will be in your attic in a box with the blower motor. Usually these things corrode and begin to leak but a 2013 is really not that old and that oil makes me think your leak may be elsewhere.
Also to add your copper line set runs to your coil. Should be easy enough to find.
I can tell you don't know enough about this to fix it yourself but you may at least be able to locate the leak and save some potential time for a contractor. I would start by trying to locate the source of the oil. You may have to pull off some of that insulation. It could be a pinhole in the lineset from when it was originally pulled. I would also check all the solder joints with either soapy water or gas leak sniffer.
The evaporator coil will be in your attic in a box with the blower motor. Usually these things corrode and begin to leak but a 2013 is really not that old and that oil makes me think your leak may be elsewhere.
Also to add your copper line set runs to your coil. Should be easy enough to find.
This post was edited on 9/18/18 at 12:24 pm
Posted on 9/18/18 at 12:33 pm to ZekeTheTeke
quote:
Look up “Lennox Evaporator Recall and Lawsuit”
Evaporator Coil Lawsuit
It’s a Lennox
It has copper evaporator coils
And was probably purchased & installed between 2011-2015.
I need my evaporator coils replaced
This post was edited on 9/18/18 at 12:38 pm
Posted on 9/18/18 at 12:37 pm to Klark Kent
This is a semi-educated guess.
Looking at the tag, it looks like the outdoor unit was Made August 5, 2012 and is a 3 ton unit.
Depending on your house square footage and insulation, it may be undersized unless you have more than one unit or are under 1200 sq. ft.
Looking at the tag, it looks like the outdoor unit was Made August 5, 2012 and is a 3 ton unit.
Depending on your house square footage and insulation, it may be undersized unless you have more than one unit or are under 1200 sq. ft.
Posted on 9/18/18 at 12:42 pm to Klark Kent
quote:
I need my evaporator coils replaced
That's some manufacturers defect BS if true. Try to get it replaced on their dime.
Posted on 9/18/18 at 12:47 pm to Bullfrog
2300 square feet.
Here’s the only picture I have of the attic right now.
Here’s the only picture I have of the attic right now.
Posted on 9/18/18 at 12:55 pm to Klark Kent
That all looks ok.
Good luck in your pursuit of the recall replacement.
Good luck in your pursuit of the recall replacement.
Posted on 9/18/18 at 12:58 pm to Bullfrog
we all pretty sold on that being the issue?
where do i even begin looking for the evap coils? I'd like to verify that myself this evening without having to wait on the warranty company to send out some HVAC dolt.
where do i even begin looking for the evap coils? I'd like to verify that myself this evening without having to wait on the warranty company to send out some HVAC dolt.
Posted on 9/18/18 at 1:01 pm to Klark Kent
I mean, it looks like a well put together and tight unit. But I'm not sure if it's just my eyes or what, but do I see the copper running up and then out of the rafters? What I mean is to make a run to the condenser outside, normally it would just chase along the ceiling joists and down the outside wall between the 2x4's. Is that going vertical, then 90's on over to the walls, then down?
Posted on 9/18/18 at 1:04 pm to Klark Kent
The coil is the unit to the right of the furnace and connecting plenum. Where you see the copper going in.
This post was edited on 9/18/18 at 1:05 pm
Posted on 9/18/18 at 1:04 pm to Festus
You are using the wrong warranty company if they deprecate your system
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