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re: Audiophile/Vinyl Thread - Post Pics, Advice, Questions, Setups, etc.
Posted on 5/13/18 at 12:20 am to HebertFest08
Posted on 5/13/18 at 12:20 am to HebertFest08
I believe I have almost solved my bass/room issue.
I added a second SVS SB-16 subwoofer—-wow, what a difference! The low energy waves coming from different sides of the room damn near fixed all the drops I had in the 42-60Hz range.
We spent about 5 hours getting this set up—using mikes and a couple software programs (sound analyzers) and having the head engineer at SVS on speakerphone for over an hour and a half giving us tips for minor adjustments during the process.
The DSP (Digital Signal Processing) provided in the SVS sub really help in making a ton of adjustments that really were either not possible a few years ago without running a complicated active crossover system with external DSP. This sub is for real folks!
With the swipe of a couple buttons on the SVS iPad app, I can now turn on and off all processing—when I swipe it OFF, the now almost flat frequency response from 18-70Hz on the computer instantly disappears—the frequency dips and holes come right back.
Swipe the DSP back to ON, and the frequency response levels off again in a few seconds!..this stuff works!
I am only about -3dB from 36-39Hz now...hell of an improvement. Other than that, I am almost flat down to 18Hz with a slight roll off to 15Hz! I am also rolling the subs off at a -24dB slope, with a phase angle of 101° on one of the subs (the other one is at 0°).
I will play around a little bit more over the next week or so and see if I can get it even better...but for now, it is sounding a lot closer to how it used to be in the old room—which is a good thing.
Running a pair of subs in stereo really takes it to another level.
I added a second SVS SB-16 subwoofer—-wow, what a difference! The low energy waves coming from different sides of the room damn near fixed all the drops I had in the 42-60Hz range.
We spent about 5 hours getting this set up—using mikes and a couple software programs (sound analyzers) and having the head engineer at SVS on speakerphone for over an hour and a half giving us tips for minor adjustments during the process.
The DSP (Digital Signal Processing) provided in the SVS sub really help in making a ton of adjustments that really were either not possible a few years ago without running a complicated active crossover system with external DSP. This sub is for real folks!
With the swipe of a couple buttons on the SVS iPad app, I can now turn on and off all processing—when I swipe it OFF, the now almost flat frequency response from 18-70Hz on the computer instantly disappears—the frequency dips and holes come right back.
Swipe the DSP back to ON, and the frequency response levels off again in a few seconds!..this stuff works!
I am only about -3dB from 36-39Hz now...hell of an improvement. Other than that, I am almost flat down to 18Hz with a slight roll off to 15Hz! I am also rolling the subs off at a -24dB slope, with a phase angle of 101° on one of the subs (the other one is at 0°).
I will play around a little bit more over the next week or so and see if I can get it even better...but for now, it is sounding a lot closer to how it used to be in the old room—which is a good thing.
Running a pair of subs in stereo really takes it to another level.
2
Posted on 5/13/18 at 12:46 am to PhilipMarlowe
quote:
PhillipMarlowe
Nice pick up there!...the Scout is a fine table with some heft.
As far as carts and cables go...if you are willing to spen around $850 or so on both, I would recommend going with a well shielded cable for the RCA connection as it will be carrying a low voltage. You don’t need a true “phono” cable, as a true phono cable has a 5-pin DIN connector on one end and RCA on the other. VPI tables come equipped with a junction box which eliminates the need for a DIN cable—just use a pair of RCA. Although you will need to connect a ground from the junction box to the amp (or any ground), you don’t have to have a pretty RCA to RCA “phono cable with ground wire” attached...you can just use a 22gauge piece of braided wire (about $1) along with a regular RCA cable.
Now, the cart—-look at the Hana carts. They have 2 models (black and green) and both are offered in high output and low output versions. The black runs around $750–do it...invest the bulk of money in the cart—it is doing most of the work in the grooves and they are harder to sell if you want to upgrade later, so just take the plunge now and be done with it.
Look on AudioGon for an AcousticZen WOW 1m RCA interconnect...they are $250 new, but you can get one used for around half that. They are very well shielded—I used one for a couple years when I connected my Scoutmaster table to my Lehman BlackCube—worked well.
The Hana cart and AZ Wow cable should be within your budget of $875 for both.
Posted on 5/13/18 at 5:20 pm to Marco Esquandolas
Posted on 5/13/18 at 10:21 pm to Marco Esquandolas
Good to hear Marco!
Posted on 5/14/18 at 12:21 am to Marco Esquandolas
Posted on 5/17/18 at 8:48 pm to PhilipMarlowe
Man... had some time to kill the last couple days in the office b/c I scheduled it light tobtoe up lose ends before being out....
Got into drooling over some Focals that I can’t touch and moved down the line a bit.... sum bitch I like the Kanta! May be a little out of my range even if I find them used.
Started looking at the Electra 1028 BEs... shite, those seem to be badass too. A little more in the possibility range. Obviously, not making a move on this tomorrow.... but it doesn’t hurt to ask....
Marco (or anyone else for that matter) ever listen to these? They are as efficient if not more efficient than the vandys.
Got into drooling over some Focals that I can’t touch and moved down the line a bit.... sum bitch I like the Kanta! May be a little out of my range even if I find them used.
Started looking at the Electra 1028 BEs... shite, those seem to be badass too. A little more in the possibility range. Obviously, not making a move on this tomorrow.... but it doesn’t hurt to ask....
Marco (or anyone else for that matter) ever listen to these? They are as efficient if not more efficient than the vandys.
Posted on 5/17/18 at 8:56 pm to HebertFest08
Look for Focal Diva Utopias....the next one down from mine. You may be able to pick them up used for $4500. I believe they were around $12k when new in 2003.
They have the same 1” tweeter and 7” mid as mine, but a less wide cabinet with a pair of side loaded 8” woofers in each tower.
Here they are next to ones like mine...
And just because, for pure scale, below is a pic of the Grand Utopia next to a pair of ones like mine—-they make mine look like toys!!
Stunning!...but they’ll set you back $200k!
They have the same 1” tweeter and 7” mid as mine, but a less wide cabinet with a pair of side loaded 8” woofers in each tower.
Here they are next to ones like mine...
And just because, for pure scale, below is a pic of the Grand Utopia next to a pair of ones like mine—-they make mine look like toys!!
Stunning!...but they’ll set you back $200k!
This post was edited on 5/18/18 at 9:57 pm
Posted on 5/18/18 at 6:46 am to Marco Esquandolas
Thought yours were huge.
Will definitely look into the divas. Appreciate the info.
Those Divas aren’t near as “imposing” looking as maybe a move into a pair of vandy 3As. I’m assuming they would sound just as good if not better than the 3As as well.
Posted on 5/18/18 at 5:04 pm to HebertFest08
3As aren’t in the same league as the Divas—not close (and I am a Vandersteen fanboy).
That Berryllium tweeter is still the best on the market in just about any speaker. Focal was first to instill its use as they manufactured them in house. They would make them for other high end speaker builders (Wilson Audio, and a few others), but they would make the Berryllium tweeter cone/dome to be convex...on Focal models, it is concave.
The 6.5” mid uses a “W cone” construction—it is a sandwich of foam held together by a middle layer of finely crushed glass. The “power flower” is the name given to its magnet arrangement— Focal Power Flower Magnet Arrangement
Also...a pair of 8” woofers in a larger cabinet will give a better low end. You really may never need a sub with these.
Here are the specs for the Diva Utopia Be...
Specifications
Diva Utopia Be 4-driver, 3-way, ported-box speaker
Drivers: 1" pure-beryllium inverted-dome tweeter, 6.5" W-cone midrange, two 8" W-cone woofers
Frequency response: 35Hz–40kHz, +/-3dB
Sensitivity: 89dB/2.83V/m
Impedance: 8ohm nominal, 3ohm minimum
Crossover frequencies: 100Hz, 2.5kHz, 24dB/octave
Maximum power handling: 200W (musical program)
Dimensions: 43.3" x 9.8" x 20.9" (HxWxD)
Weight: 105.8 lbs
Price: $11,500/pair
Don’t worry about the wife factor—-they are a beautiful speaker that asks to be looked at.
That Berryllium tweeter is still the best on the market in just about any speaker. Focal was first to instill its use as they manufactured them in house. They would make them for other high end speaker builders (Wilson Audio, and a few others), but they would make the Berryllium tweeter cone/dome to be convex...on Focal models, it is concave.
The 6.5” mid uses a “W cone” construction—it is a sandwich of foam held together by a middle layer of finely crushed glass. The “power flower” is the name given to its magnet arrangement— Focal Power Flower Magnet Arrangement
Also...a pair of 8” woofers in a larger cabinet will give a better low end. You really may never need a sub with these.
Here are the specs for the Diva Utopia Be...
Specifications
Diva Utopia Be 4-driver, 3-way, ported-box speaker
Drivers: 1" pure-beryllium inverted-dome tweeter, 6.5" W-cone midrange, two 8" W-cone woofers
Frequency response: 35Hz–40kHz, +/-3dB
Sensitivity: 89dB/2.83V/m
Impedance: 8ohm nominal, 3ohm minimum
Crossover frequencies: 100Hz, 2.5kHz, 24dB/octave
Maximum power handling: 200W (musical program)
Dimensions: 43.3" x 9.8" x 20.9" (HxWxD)
Weight: 105.8 lbs
Price: $11,500/pair
Don’t worry about the wife factor—-they are a beautiful speaker that asks to be looked at.
This post was edited on 5/18/18 at 7:08 pm
Posted on 5/18/18 at 5:17 pm to Marco Esquandolas
And if the 16” electromagnetic woofer in the Grand Utopia just isn’t getting it done for you, you can add 6 more 16” Utopia subs designed to stack on either side of the Grands...
...for an additional $120k! (Custom dull coat red finish adds $25k to that as well).
...for an additional $120k! (Custom dull coat red finish adds $25k to that as well).
Posted on 5/18/18 at 6:13 pm to Marco Esquandolas
Finally got the McIntosh MC2105 back from Audio Classics (the serial # of this particular unit puts it around a 1970 build date)...
Audio Classics in Vestal, NY is professional from end to end. I bought a custom triple box made specifically for the MC2105 from them and had it shipped, empty, to me, I packed it up, along with 2 other amps, and sent all 3 off to them via pallet (UPS business freight).
They turned and burned all 3 amps in 2 weeks—and 1 week of that was waiting from parts from McIntosh!
They also provide diagnostic test spec sheets after they test the amp on the bench, along with a sheet of all parts replaced and work performed.
I just hooked it up into the big rig and it sounds like a totally different amp from the one I sent off 3 weeks ago. It truly sounds fantastic!
This drives home my point of telling the folks on here that buy vintage gear about bringing them back up to spec. Amps that that haven’t had capacitors replaced and general service for 30+ years aren’t going to sound that good. I knew mine was in need of an overhaul, and I haven’t really used it in any real capacity in many years—but even I am surprised by how darn good this thing sounds now!
Some pics...
The total repair was around $600, plus shipping (around $180 round trip if it were on a pallet by itself).
Not too bad, considering one of these amps with Audio Classics’ documentation of complete overhaul and in good condition will fetch around $2250+ nowadays (they were $750 new in 1970).
Audio Classics in Vestal, NY is professional from end to end. I bought a custom triple box made specifically for the MC2105 from them and had it shipped, empty, to me, I packed it up, along with 2 other amps, and sent all 3 off to them via pallet (UPS business freight).
They turned and burned all 3 amps in 2 weeks—and 1 week of that was waiting from parts from McIntosh!
They also provide diagnostic test spec sheets after they test the amp on the bench, along with a sheet of all parts replaced and work performed.
I just hooked it up into the big rig and it sounds like a totally different amp from the one I sent off 3 weeks ago. It truly sounds fantastic!
This drives home my point of telling the folks on here that buy vintage gear about bringing them back up to spec. Amps that that haven’t had capacitors replaced and general service for 30+ years aren’t going to sound that good. I knew mine was in need of an overhaul, and I haven’t really used it in any real capacity in many years—but even I am surprised by how darn good this thing sounds now!
Some pics...
The total repair was around $600, plus shipping (around $180 round trip if it were on a pallet by itself).
Not too bad, considering one of these amps with Audio Classics’ documentation of complete overhaul and in good condition will fetch around $2250+ nowadays (they were $750 new in 1970).
Posted on 5/20/18 at 6:42 pm to Marco Esquandolas
On now...
Genesis--"Selling England by the Pound"...16/44.1 hi-rez Tidal stream through Sonos
Genesis--"Selling England by the Pound"...16/44.1 hi-rez Tidal stream through Sonos
Posted on 5/22/18 at 8:46 pm to Marco Esquandolas
I picked up a realistic sta-2100, can I use the preamp outs to send signal to a powered sub?
Posted on 5/23/18 at 2:15 pm to 45acp
I’ll have to look up the specs of that piece as I am unfamiliar with it. I’ll respond later this evening.
Posted on 5/23/18 at 3:23 pm to Marco Esquandolas
Posted on 5/24/18 at 3:14 am to 45acp
Not all Realistic by Radio Shack was created equal. The one you posted was their “Cadillac Model” for 1979 and built by Foster Electronics. Foster was a subsidiary of Pioneer Electronics, which is why that receiver looks almost identical to the Pioneer receivers of that era.
With that said, this receiver is a solid unit, with a large power supply and enough power to drive just about any modern speaker, large or small.
What is it that you are trying to do? Add a sub to an existing system and using this receiver to power it? Or are you going to have an entirely separate system? Are you asking if you can use this receiver as just a “pre amp”, while powering a set of speakers with another power amp?
If it has a line level RCA output, then yes, you should be able to feed the input of the subwoofer amp. It has to be a variable output. If the sub has a single LFE input, just get a $5 pair of RCA “Y-splitters” and run the L+R from the receiver into the LFE on the sub.
With that said, this receiver is a solid unit, with a large power supply and enough power to drive just about any modern speaker, large or small.
What is it that you are trying to do? Add a sub to an existing system and using this receiver to power it? Or are you going to have an entirely separate system? Are you asking if you can use this receiver as just a “pre amp”, while powering a set of speakers with another power amp?
If it has a line level RCA output, then yes, you should be able to feed the input of the subwoofer amp. It has to be a variable output. If the sub has a single LFE input, just get a $5 pair of RCA “Y-splitters” and run the L+R from the receiver into the LFE on the sub.
This post was edited on 5/24/18 at 3:23 am
Posted on 5/24/18 at 8:06 am to Marco Esquandolas
Thanks I'll pick up a Y-splitter. At present I'll probably drop it in my current setup to A/B with what I currently have. Eventually I'll likely build a new rig.
Posted on 5/31/18 at 6:32 pm to 45acp
On now...
No explanation needed.
Bob Mayo, on the keyboards, Bob Mayo...
No explanation needed.
Bob Mayo, on the keyboards, Bob Mayo...
Posted on 5/31/18 at 10:32 pm to Marco Esquandolas
“Is that Peter fricking Frampton?”
Posted on 6/1/18 at 3:42 pm to PhilipMarlowe
You bet your arse it is!
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