- My Forums
- Tiger Rant
- LSU Recruiting
- SEC Rant
- Saints Talk
- Pelicans Talk
- More Sports Board
- Fantasy Sports
- Golf Board
- Soccer Board
- O-T Lounge
- Tech Board
- Home/Garden Board
- Outdoor Board
- Health/Fitness Board
- Movie/TV Board
- Book Board
- Music Board
- Political Talk
- Money Talk
- Fark Board
- Gaming Board
- Travel Board
- Food/Drink Board
- Ticket Exchange
- TD Help Board
Customize My Forums- View All Forums
- Show Left Links
- Topic Sort Options
- Trending Topics
- Recent Topics
- Active Topics
Started By
Message
re: New Car Purchase - BMW juice worth the squeeze?
Posted on 3/31/23 at 4:03 pm to j1897
Posted on 3/31/23 at 4:03 pm to j1897
quote:
General "maintenance" on a german car is considered repairs on a honda or toyota. So people buy a 5 year old bmw or audi, don't do the maintenance required, and then bitch when something bad happens at 80,000 miles.
This can be true sometimes. Worst case scenario, I recently bought an E90 M3 and It's considered general maintenance to replace the rod bearings in the motor or it goes BOOM while revving to 8400 RPM I knew what I was getting into when I bought it though and it had recently been done so I shouldn't have to deal with finding someone to replace them per below.
I like the M series but BMW always seems to include a major issue with them.
E36 = cooling system
E46 = rod bearings, vanos, subframe cracking, SMG trans
E9X = rod bearings, throttle actuators
F8X = crank hub
This post was edited on 3/31/23 at 5:54 pm
Posted on 3/31/23 at 6:20 pm to man117
We own an F85 X5M. LOVE THIS CAR. Smiles per mile are off the charts.
That being said, if you are a responsible driver that drives fast and aggressive but not insane, this is OVERKILL.
If you are looking at a X3 or X4, I'd buy the X3/X4 M40i from late 2019 on, I am a big fan of the 2019 X4 M40i as it still maintained the analog gages and not the new dash.
The B58 architecture is better (inline 6 vs v8), VERY tunable, better gas economy and fun as hell as you can red line it easily. This is assuming you are not red light racing every car you see or plan to track your car.
I'd buy used but pick over the CARFAX with a fine-tooth comb for anything unusual (entire wire harness replacement, computer resets, etc.)
Ours had 50K when we purchased it and the only thing in the CARFAX entries were brake replacement, tire replacement and oil changes. Had it for another 35K and 3 years and only added tire, brake and oil change entries.
We drive very fast and aggressive, but I've never had any desire to use launch control, and if we drove it at redline, I'd be in triple digits the blink of an eye. I've never tuned it as it is pretty insane as is.
I heard the stories, so I bought the warranty when I got ours. Never used it and have been to the shop 1 time as the oil filter wasn't torqued properly and there was a small drip I noticed.
That being said, if you are a responsible driver that drives fast and aggressive but not insane, this is OVERKILL.
If you are looking at a X3 or X4, I'd buy the X3/X4 M40i from late 2019 on, I am a big fan of the 2019 X4 M40i as it still maintained the analog gages and not the new dash.
The B58 architecture is better (inline 6 vs v8), VERY tunable, better gas economy and fun as hell as you can red line it easily. This is assuming you are not red light racing every car you see or plan to track your car.
I'd buy used but pick over the CARFAX with a fine-tooth comb for anything unusual (entire wire harness replacement, computer resets, etc.)
Ours had 50K when we purchased it and the only thing in the CARFAX entries were brake replacement, tire replacement and oil changes. Had it for another 35K and 3 years and only added tire, brake and oil change entries.
We drive very fast and aggressive, but I've never had any desire to use launch control, and if we drove it at redline, I'd be in triple digits the blink of an eye. I've never tuned it as it is pretty insane as is.
I heard the stories, so I bought the warranty when I got ours. Never used it and have been to the shop 1 time as the oil filter wasn't torqued properly and there was a small drip I noticed.
This post was edited on 3/31/23 at 11:49 pm
Posted on 3/31/23 at 8:52 pm to Turf Taint
LINK
BMWs cost $1800/yr on average to maintain. The highest of any manufacturer. So never own one outside of warranty. With that being said if it fits your budget go for it. They're fun to drive. I've always wanted a slammed 93-99 BMW 328I. Supercharger preferred
BMWs cost $1800/yr on average to maintain. The highest of any manufacturer. So never own one outside of warranty. With that being said if it fits your budget go for it. They're fun to drive. I've always wanted a slammed 93-99 BMW 328I. Supercharger preferred
Posted on 3/31/23 at 11:19 pm to LSU1018
quote:
I would not do the run flat tires that come on them again. I’m always worried taking it on trips that I would get a flat.
quote:
I’m just not a car person.
Yeap
Posted on 4/1/23 at 7:16 am to Jag_Warrior
quote:
BMW mechanics need a way to send their kids to a private college too
I had a BMW owner tell me BMW stands for "bring more wrenches."
He was telling me the ordeal just to replace a head light.
Posted on 4/1/23 at 8:04 am to oneg8rh8r
quote:
We own an F85 X5M. LOVE THIS CAR. Smiles per mile are off the charts. That being said, if you are a responsible driver that drives fast and aggressive but not insane, this is OVERKILL. If you are looking at a X3 or X4, I'd buy the X3/X4 M40i from late 2019 on, I am a big fan of the 2019 X4 M40i as it still maintained the analog gages and not the new dash. The B58 architecture is better (inline 6 vs v8), VERY tunable, better gas economy and fun as hell as you can red line it easily. This is assuming you are not red light racing every car you see or plan to track your car. I'd buy used but pick over the CARFAX with a fine-tooth comb for anything unusual (entire wire harness replacement, computer resets, etc.) Ours had 50K when we purchased it and the only thing in the CARFAX entries were brake replacement, tire replacement and oil changes. Had it for another 35K and 3 years and only added tire, brake and oil change entries. We drive very fast and aggressive, but I've never had any desire to use launch control, and if we drove it at redline, I'd be in triple digits the blink of an eye. I've never tuned it as it is pretty insane as is. I heard the stories, so I bought the warranty when I got ours. Never used it and have been to the shop 1 time as the oil filter wasn't torqued properly and there was a small drip I noticed.
I’ve got a 21 XM5 and I love it. Has about 14k miles on so it doesn’t get driven too often.
Probably get a 24 or 25 we like it so much.
Posted on 4/1/23 at 10:22 am to Rize
I got a chance to drive the '23 X6M Comp. The performance was amazing but hate the new gage cluster and don't really like the side profile.
I was given a X3 M40i as a loner when they were looking at my oil drip and it wanted to be pushed, lots of fun to toss around as it is nimbler.
I was given a X3 M40i as a loner when they were looking at my oil drip and it wanted to be pushed, lots of fun to toss around as it is nimbler.
Posted on 4/1/23 at 12:03 pm to oneg8rh8r
I had an entry level in line 6 for years that I loved and miss, but my god, it was such a liability. I had to get rid of it at around 110k miles. It started being a real pain in the arse around 80k miles. It was expensive to repair and was a base model. Can't imagine what the really fancy ones cost. Still get a little sad when I see one rolling around in the world, though.
Posted on 4/1/23 at 12:12 pm to oneg8rh8r
This question is always tough, and it's always based on how well you can work on an older car yourself. It's the same for VWs and Mercedes. Here are my observations:
- The german cars typically try to do normal functions with more automation than necessary. This leads to a higher probability of something breaking. It's just numbers.
- American cars are likely your best bang for your buck because they are typically the cheapest to get into, and by the time they break, the time value of money likely has you ahead. They just are very common and people typically don't love that.
- Toyota/Honda - Pricey for the amount of options you get vs American cars, but tend to not change models very often and keep the designs pretty simple (I believe they held onto roll-up windows the longest; body style/generations don't change often). They really work out the bugs this way, but you don't get the new options right away. But in the end, less stuff means less stuff to break...and higher reliability.
Of all these, if you can do simple mechanic work (i.e. change sensors, starters, intake parts, pop a door panel, etc.), no vehicle is likely to grenade itself with significant damage that you can't at worst go to a junkyard and get a part. Now, if it's diesel, make sure you do your homework on fuel cost and driver to own one before you go down that road. They are great vehicles, but HPFPs, DPFs, EGR system problems, etc. are insanely high to fix regardless of the make and model.
With that, I own two diesel BMWs (one with nearly 200k). I would do it again in a heartbeat.
- The german cars typically try to do normal functions with more automation than necessary. This leads to a higher probability of something breaking. It's just numbers.
- American cars are likely your best bang for your buck because they are typically the cheapest to get into, and by the time they break, the time value of money likely has you ahead. They just are very common and people typically don't love that.
- Toyota/Honda - Pricey for the amount of options you get vs American cars, but tend to not change models very often and keep the designs pretty simple (I believe they held onto roll-up windows the longest; body style/generations don't change often). They really work out the bugs this way, but you don't get the new options right away. But in the end, less stuff means less stuff to break...and higher reliability.
Of all these, if you can do simple mechanic work (i.e. change sensors, starters, intake parts, pop a door panel, etc.), no vehicle is likely to grenade itself with significant damage that you can't at worst go to a junkyard and get a part. Now, if it's diesel, make sure you do your homework on fuel cost and driver to own one before you go down that road. They are great vehicles, but HPFPs, DPFs, EGR system problems, etc. are insanely high to fix regardless of the make and model.
With that, I own two diesel BMWs (one with nearly 200k). I would do it again in a heartbeat.
Posted on 4/1/23 at 12:55 pm to Newgene
I’ve got a 2011 3-Series diesel and it’s great. Performance is amazing.
Posted on 4/1/23 at 1:42 pm to man117
Had one of each of these cars but only had to deal with E9x issues that you listed.
E36 = cooling system
E46 = rod bearings, vanos, subframe cracking, SMG trans
E9X = rod bearings, throttle actuators
E36 had issues with bushing. E46 had 6sp comp pack and only dealt with standard stuff. Sold it with 150k miles.
I would do it all again. Currently have no car so putting away funds for hopefully one day when BMW will sell the m3 touring in the US.
E36 = cooling system
E46 = rod bearings, vanos, subframe cracking, SMG trans
E9X = rod bearings, throttle actuators
E36 had issues with bushing. E46 had 6sp comp pack and only dealt with standard stuff. Sold it with 150k miles.
I would do it all again. Currently have no car so putting away funds for hopefully one day when BMW will sell the m3 touring in the US.
Posted on 4/1/23 at 1:56 pm to Turf Taint
quote:
M340i
An awesome car, if you mod it they are incredibly fast. Seriously a nice machine with good performance/comfort.
quote:
M3
Do it if you can swing it.
BMWs are fine until you hit that 100k mile mark, everything eventually starts to shite out after that.
This post was edited on 4/1/23 at 1:58 pm
Popular
Back to top
Follow TigerDroppings for LSU Football News