- My Forums
- Tiger Rant
- LSU Recruiting
- SEC Rant
- Saints Talk
- Pelicans Talk
- More Sports Board
- Fantasy Sports
- Golf Board
- Soccer Board
- O-T Lounge
- Tech Board
- Home/Garden Board
- Outdoor Board
- Health/Fitness Board
- Movie/TV Board
- Book Board
- Music Board
- Political Talk
- Money Talk
- Fark Board
- Gaming Board
- Travel Board
- Food/Drink Board
- Ticket Exchange
- TD Help Board
Customize My Forums- View All Forums
- Show Left Links
- Topic Sort Options
- Trending Topics
- Recent Topics
- Active Topics
Started By
Message
re: Woodworking Beginner Tips
Posted on 4/24/19 at 4:18 pm to Drunken Crawfish
Posted on 4/24/19 at 4:18 pm to Drunken Crawfish
Can you not just cut ends to size and join them with a kregg from the bottom?
eta: I've never done any precision wood work so I probably don't know what I'm talking about.
It seems to me like you and I are in identical sitations. I'm currently buying the same shite as you so that I can start with a farmhouse coffee table for my new house. I'm looking at the Ana White design but want to do the bread ends as well.
eta: I've never done any precision wood work so I probably don't know what I'm talking about.
It seems to me like you and I are in identical sitations. I'm currently buying the same shite as you so that I can start with a farmhouse coffee table for my new house. I'm looking at the Ana White design but want to do the bread ends as well.
This post was edited on 4/24/19 at 4:20 pm
2
Posted on 4/24/19 at 4:30 pm to PapaPogey
quote:
Can you not just cut ends to size and join them with a kregg from the bottom?
I thought about that, but I don't believe the pocket holes allow for the natural wood movement in the boards over time. I could be wrong about that though. I have seen a video where you drill a pocket hole, then go back and drill through it with a bit that is slightly larger than the shaft of the screw but still allows the head to sit and hold the boards. I just don't want to spend a couple hundred dollars and a bunch of time only to have a cupped table in a few years.
I was just curious if any of the experienced guys had any other suggestions.
ETA: I just found this reddit thread about pocket holes and wood movement LINK /
This post was edited on 4/24/19 at 4:43 pm
Posted on 4/24/19 at 6:14 pm to Drunken Crawfish
Good read, thanks.
Posted on 4/24/19 at 6:16 pm to PapaPogey
Which design are you trying to build? I don’t need anything spectacular, just want it to look like good craftsmanship (not pro carpenter grade) and hold up decently. It’s gonna be a pretty cheap and quick build so if it falls apart after a couple yrs, so be it, I’ll just build it again.
Posted on 4/24/19 at 6:34 pm to PapaPogey
My concern with a harbor freight miter saw, and really any slider is precision. They’re notorious for not cutting a true 90.
As far as bread board ends, you don’t have to have them at all. My first farm table didn’t have any and I used construction lumber and years later it’s as flat as can be. If you want to try the pocket hole method, go for it. Especially if you’re using cheap lumber. A lot of people do it. But I wouldn’t recommend it if you’re using some nice expensive lumber. Or if your building it for someone else.
As far as bread board ends, you don’t have to have them at all. My first farm table didn’t have any and I used construction lumber and years later it’s as flat as can be. If you want to try the pocket hole method, go for it. Especially if you’re using cheap lumber. A lot of people do it. But I wouldn’t recommend it if you’re using some nice expensive lumber. Or if your building it for someone else.
Posted on 4/24/19 at 6:44 pm to Chuckd
quote:
My concern with a harbor freight miter saw, and really any slider is precision. They’re notorious for not cutting a true 90.
I have a Bosch sliding miter. It is not on rails. The way the saw is designed you can have it pretty much up against a wall. It will cut 15-16” board. It has been spot on 90 since I’ve had it.
It’s an expensive saw but I think it’s worth it.
Posted on 4/24/19 at 8:28 pm to PapaPogey
I haven’t figured that out yet. I’ll post here whenever I figure it out. It’ll be something with a simple base, 2x10s and figure 8 or Z fasteners
Posted on 4/25/19 at 8:09 am to Drunken Crawfish
quote:
I don't believe the pocket holes allow for the natural wood movement in the boards over time.
That's correct. If you're using lumber that is good and dry and the table will spend its life inside, you will probably be ok. If you can, let the wood acclimate to the climate it's going to live in. (your living room) The problem occurs with drastic changes in humidity.
You can minimize the amount of cupping by putting some shallow kerf cuts on the bottom side of your boards. This will help keep the boards flat and make your table top lay flat.
Posted on 4/25/19 at 3:37 pm to ducksnbass
Someone is selling a bunch of hand tools for woodworking on FB marketplace. Some look antique, but I’m sure work well including the hand drills
Posted on 4/25/19 at 3:39 pm to PapaPogey
Pogey, I think I figured out what I am going to do. Obviously all of this is subject to change based on any of the more experienced guys' input.
Use 2x10 for the table top and just make some sort of basic base with an apron and a single stretcher on the bottom. A guy in town I know is a very advanced woodworker and has a shop so I'll probably offer him a few beers to help me mill the boards. I think I will use glue and dowels to hold the table top together, and pocket holes to assemble the base and apron. Then do either a kerf cut or a small plunge cut with my circular saw (similar to a biscuit joint) in the apron to allow for some Z clip fasteners to hold the top in place.
Anyone have any thoughts on that method? Should that be sturdy enough and allow for enough movement for a table that may potentially end up outside on a patio? Any and all comments are appreciated.
eta: video link to table top fasteners
Use 2x10 for the table top and just make some sort of basic base with an apron and a single stretcher on the bottom. A guy in town I know is a very advanced woodworker and has a shop so I'll probably offer him a few beers to help me mill the boards. I think I will use glue and dowels to hold the table top together, and pocket holes to assemble the base and apron. Then do either a kerf cut or a small plunge cut with my circular saw (similar to a biscuit joint) in the apron to allow for some Z clip fasteners to hold the top in place.
Anyone have any thoughts on that method? Should that be sturdy enough and allow for enough movement for a table that may potentially end up outside on a patio? Any and all comments are appreciated.
eta: video link to table top fasteners
This post was edited on 4/25/19 at 3:40 pm
Posted on 4/25/19 at 5:08 pm to Chuckd
quote:
They’re notorious for not cutting a true 90.
That's true for all such miter saws, joints/slides/bearings = tolerance stacking no matter who makes it. You trade precision for increased cutting capacity. I've done trim carpentry for years and the go to saw is the DeWalt DW716. I've seen a few try sliding saws but the results are sloppier, especially with stain-grade work.
Posted on 4/26/19 at 4:01 am to SMACKYtheFROG
quote:miter saw, table saw, clamps (lots and lots of clamps)
What are good tools needed to make tables, chairs, benches, cutting boards, decorative things, etc. Are there classes you can take in the NOLA area? Good videos to watch? Good starter projects?
really depends on what you're making. if you're making laminated table tops and cutting boards a jointer and planer will make your life easier.
Posted on 4/26/19 at 4:02 am to CBLSU316
quote:this pretty much nails it. Take out the biscuit jointer and add a planer though.
Planer
Jointer
Router
table saw
Lots of clamps
Biscuit jointer
Miter saw
Kregg jig
Posted on 4/26/19 at 4:54 am to Drunken Crawfish
Are you doing breadboard ends ? Your plan sounds fine. The dowels aren’t necessary from a strength stand point if your glue seems are tight. Although they do help with alignment. Or you can use biscuits or dominoes for the same purpose. And for the kerf that the z clips sit in, the circ saw is fine but an easier way is on the table saw, or a biscuit slot, or a router with a slot cutting but. Also, I would add some corner braces on the inside of each leg, that really stiffens it up.
Posted on 4/26/19 at 7:02 am to The Dude Abides
I have a 10” ryobi table saw that my dad gave to me (used a couple times), a few cordless and corded drills, circular saw, jigsaw, and a orbital sander. From these other tools, what are some quality yet affordable tools I should get first and any suggestions on where to buy them? I’m in the New Orleans area. Thanks for all the feedback!
Posted on 4/26/19 at 7:06 am to SMACKYtheFROG
A router with a chamfering bit and a round over bit, a pocket hole jig, ( I like the Kreg r3) and some clamps. You can get all of this on amazon or Lowe’s
Posted on 4/26/19 at 7:16 am to Drunken Crawfish
quote:
I think I will use glue and dowels to hold the table top together,
Dowels work fine, but are a PITA since they have to be aligned exactly in each piece so they line up correctly. Just a little out on one or two over the length of a couple mating 8 ft. boards will drive you nuts trying to get them to match up to glue.
I'd opt for either biscuits, which have some wiggle room or just run a 1/4 in. wide by 1/2 in deep groove down the edges of the boards and use thin strips of 1/4 in. plywood like a long tenon to mate the boards. You stop short on each end when cutting the groove so it doesn't show on the ends of the tabletop.
Posted on 4/26/19 at 7:43 am to SMACKYtheFROG
My advice is whatever projects you are looking to take on, start with the easiest one first. You’ll learn something from that project to take on the next. So on and so forth.
Posted on 4/26/19 at 7:52 am to Chuckd
quote:
And for the kerf that the z clips sit in, the circ saw is fine but an easier way is on the table saw, or a biscuit slot, or a router with a slot cutting but.
I don’t have a table saw, biscuit joiner or router at this exact moment so I am trying to work with what I have.
And no breadboard ends. Wife doesn’t like them and I have read if you can’t do them correctly then there is no point to having them
Posted on 4/26/19 at 7:56 am to Drunken Crawfish
quote:
I don’t have a table saw, biscuit joiner or router at this exact moment so I am trying to work with what I have.
Don't know what tools you do have, but as you know, people have been building furniture way longer than power tools came into play and some of the finest craftsmanship was done with nothing but hand tools, patience and knowledge.
Page 3 of 5
Popular
Back to top
Follow TigerDroppings for LSU Football News