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Wood Fence Tips or Techniques?
Posted on 1/17/20 at 12:40 pm
Posted on 1/17/20 at 12:40 pm
I'm going to have to embark on rebuilding my wooden fence. I've repaired parts over the years, replaced sections, replaced some 4x4s etc. I've done enough carpentry and woodworking to feel comfortable, but looking for any tips. The biggest issue I've had is warping wood over the years. The fence is likely original to the house, which was built ~'99. I've also got 350 linear feet to contend with.
1- Best lumber advice? The big box stuff has not been great. Lowes stuff the worst. Yellawood seems to have warped the least in my experience. In this case, bulk delivery from a real lumberyard is my preference. Not sure if the quality will differ from yard to yard.
2- Any tips on handling to prevent bowing runners? Mounting or fastener do's and don'ts.
3- Removing the existing 4x4s is going to be the worst part I fear. I've seen some DIY leverage tips for prying them out. It seems like there should be some hydralic jack solution to help. The other option is flush cutting and just staggering where the existing posts are now. Seems reasonable but perhaps a bit bush league?
1- Best lumber advice? The big box stuff has not been great. Lowes stuff the worst. Yellawood seems to have warped the least in my experience. In this case, bulk delivery from a real lumberyard is my preference. Not sure if the quality will differ from yard to yard.
2- Any tips on handling to prevent bowing runners? Mounting or fastener do's and don'ts.
3- Removing the existing 4x4s is going to be the worst part I fear. I've seen some DIY leverage tips for prying them out. It seems like there should be some hydralic jack solution to help. The other option is flush cutting and just staggering where the existing posts are now. Seems reasonable but perhaps a bit bush league?
7
Posted on 1/17/20 at 1:26 pm to RaginCajunz
quote:
2- Any tips on handling to prevent bowing runners? Mounting or fastener do's and don'ts.
About the only way I know how to do this is to buy it, let it sit in the garage (stickered) and dry for a few months.
quote:
3- Removing the existing 4x4s is going to be the worst part I fear. I've seen some DIY leverage tips for prying them out. It seems like there should be some hydralic jack solution to help. The other option is flush cutting and just staggering where the existing posts are now. Seems reasonable but perhaps a bit bush league?
This part is actually pretty easy.
you will need a good chain.
take a separate 4x4 8-10ft long and chain it to the bottom of the post
Get a few cut off pieces of 4x4 and put (vertically)under the 4x4 (a) about 1-2 feet away from the post. Then just push down.
move the cut offs closer to the chain or get longer pieces to get it all the way out.
This post was edited on 1/17/20 at 1:29 pm
Posted on 1/17/20 at 3:30 pm to RaginCajunz
Removing the 4x4 posts is easy.
Get a maul and hit right at the base of the 4x4 ( of course this is after you've removed the fencing section itself.)
Hit the post on a couple of sides. This will break the post away from the concrete anchoring and you can pull the post right out of the ground.
You can even re use the 4x4's, if you want. Most of the time they'll break away relatively easy
Get a maul and hit right at the base of the 4x4 ( of course this is after you've removed the fencing section itself.)
Hit the post on a couple of sides. This will break the post away from the concrete anchoring and you can pull the post right out of the ground.
You can even re use the 4x4's, if you want. Most of the time they'll break away relatively easy
This post was edited on 1/17/20 at 3:31 pm
Posted on 1/17/20 at 5:12 pm to RaginCajunz
Yes find an actual lumberyard.
-Make sure your pickets aren’t of the Asian cedar variety.
-Buy pre-treated (stained) cedar pickets and pressure treated runners
-Ensure pickets are pre-treated-stained by submersion method and not just sprayed.
-Replace wooden posts with 2 3/8 metal posts properly cemented minimum 2’
-Consider a top rail/cap
-Consider a 2x6 pressure treated pre stained bottom rail
-1 7/8" ring shanked hot dipped galvanized nails
Should cost 25 to 40 $/linear foot turnkey if you hire it out—depends on geography, wood quality, fence design, etc. $8500 to $14K ballpark.
Without calculating you could DIY for 3500 to 5k approximately depending on negotiating skills with supplier.
-Make sure your pickets aren’t of the Asian cedar variety.
-Buy pre-treated (stained) cedar pickets and pressure treated runners
-Ensure pickets are pre-treated-stained by submersion method and not just sprayed.
-Replace wooden posts with 2 3/8 metal posts properly cemented minimum 2’
-Consider a top rail/cap
-Consider a 2x6 pressure treated pre stained bottom rail
-1 7/8" ring shanked hot dipped galvanized nails
Should cost 25 to 40 $/linear foot turnkey if you hire it out—depends on geography, wood quality, fence design, etc. $8500 to $14K ballpark.
Without calculating you could DIY for 3500 to 5k approximately depending on negotiating skills with supplier.
Posted on 1/18/20 at 9:00 am to GeauxGutsy
I’m about to do this as well
Does anybody have a good recommendation for fence material supply in Baton Rouge or Gonzales?
My plan was to do everything cedar and dip my posts in copper napthenate before installing. For my post holes I will take a 12” auger 2.5 ft down, put a few inches of gravel, level my post and fill the hole concrete and slope the top slightly above grade. For my runners I’ll have three 16’ runners that are staggered on the less than 8’ centers. I’ll probably pre drill my pickets and use screws instead of nails.
I’m not sold on the dipped cedar posts but when I lived in houston, most folks with fence problems had 4x4s breaking right at the ground level and many were warped and they had treated pine posts so I wanted to try something different. Any thoughts?
Does anybody have a good recommendation for fence material supply in Baton Rouge or Gonzales?
My plan was to do everything cedar and dip my posts in copper napthenate before installing. For my post holes I will take a 12” auger 2.5 ft down, put a few inches of gravel, level my post and fill the hole concrete and slope the top slightly above grade. For my runners I’ll have three 16’ runners that are staggered on the less than 8’ centers. I’ll probably pre drill my pickets and use screws instead of nails.
I’m not sold on the dipped cedar posts but when I lived in houston, most folks with fence problems had 4x4s breaking right at the ground level and many were warped and they had treated pine posts so I wanted to try something different. Any thoughts?
Posted on 1/18/20 at 12:28 pm to RaginCajunz
Use regular treated boards and cap it with a 2x4 or 6. Use 6x6. Look better. Three runs of 2x minimum to stop boards from moving. Fence boards are basically utility grade. It’s junk.
Posted on 1/18/20 at 1:26 pm to RaginCajunz
First off I would strongly recommend to use cedar pickets and then stain them. As for pulling up the existing posts what I did was wet the area around the posts then use either a chain or a pipe wrench to secure to the post then use a hydraulic jack to pull out the entire post and concrete at once.
It looks like you're in Lafayette, I ordered everything I needed from Bell Fence Co. and they delivered everything. They had American cedar and imported cedar but I forgot from where.
edit: I cheated a little bit, once the post and concrete came loose from the ground I used my truck and a chain to pull them the rest of the way out.
It looks like you're in Lafayette, I ordered everything I needed from Bell Fence Co. and they delivered everything. They had American cedar and imported cedar but I forgot from where.
edit: I cheated a little bit, once the post and concrete came loose from the ground I used my truck and a chain to pull them the rest of the way out.
This post was edited on 1/18/20 at 1:39 pm
Posted on 1/18/20 at 3:40 pm to RaginCajunz
Use screws not nails. If Jose shows up with a nail gun, call ICE.
Posted on 1/18/20 at 3:49 pm to deeprig9
Galvanized ring shank, gun nails aint going no where.
And about 4 times quicker than screwing too.
And about 4 times quicker than screwing too.
Posted on 1/19/20 at 9:25 pm to RaginCajunz
Use cedar for the fence boards and PT 2x4 for the runners. Get 16’ 2x4s and stagger the butt splices so not all 3 splices are on the same post (this will make the fence a lot stronger). Make it 3 runners, from the top of the runner to the top of the fence board should be around 10-12” and vice versa for the bottom runner.
Screwing everything is stronger than nails, but nails will do the job just fine. Galvanized Ring shank nails
As far as the post, either cut them below the ground and dig new holes 8’ apart, or rent a machine and pull them out with a chain. Go to a local rental place and they will have a mini skid steer with attachments for around $150/day. Depending on your situation, I’d go rent a machine. I’ve used them for years for multiple uses, mainly smaller fence jobs.
Screwing everything is stronger than nails, but nails will do the job just fine. Galvanized Ring shank nails
As far as the post, either cut them below the ground and dig new holes 8’ apart, or rent a machine and pull them out with a chain. Go to a local rental place and they will have a mini skid steer with attachments for around $150/day. Depending on your situation, I’d go rent a machine. I’ve used them for years for multiple uses, mainly smaller fence jobs.
Posted on 4/21/22 at 7:32 am to GeauxGutsy
quote:
pre-treated (stained) cedar
No need. Cedar is naturally resistant to water.
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