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Message
Tiling the tub surround
Posted on 12/29/19 at 6:57 pm
Posted on 12/29/19 at 6:57 pm
How hard is tile?
Do I need anything besides concrete backer board? I see thin set and orange rubber mats sometimes as prep for tile on TV shows.
I’ve currently got some solid composite shite around my tubs but it is pulling away from the wall.
Looking to do subway tile about five feet up the wall from the tub.
Do I need anything besides concrete backer board? I see thin set and orange rubber mats sometimes as prep for tile on TV shows.
I’ve currently got some solid composite shite around my tubs but it is pulling away from the wall.
Looking to do subway tile about five feet up the wall from the tub.
This post was edited on 12/29/19 at 6:58 pm
2
Posted on 12/29/19 at 7:06 pm to alajones
We did one of ours ourselves. It wasn’t that hard. Just a bit time consuming since I had no experience. We built a niche and used subway tile all the way around with a horizontal mosaic tile accent. Came out okay.
Posted on 12/29/19 at 7:10 pm to alajones
Is this for your own home? Are you (or your SO) a perfectionist? For a tile job to look great you have to be meticulous. Laser level, tile leveling/anti-lippage system, spacers for grout lines, planning out each tile line before you start to make sure the corners / edges are how you want them, there's no tiny slivers of tile etc.
Do you ever expect to shower in this tub? If so, you want to waterproof the walls. Tile & grout are not waterproof. Cement board is not waterproof. You will either want to apply a liquid membrane waterproofing (like redguard or hydroban) to the cement board or use a foam backer board like kerdiboard (the orange stuff), wediboard, hydroban board etc.
Not trying to completely discourage you just important to know what you're getting into.
Do you ever expect to shower in this tub? If so, you want to waterproof the walls. Tile & grout are not waterproof. Cement board is not waterproof. You will either want to apply a liquid membrane waterproofing (like redguard or hydroban) to the cement board or use a foam backer board like kerdiboard (the orange stuff), wediboard, hydroban board etc.
Not trying to completely discourage you just important to know what you're getting into.
Posted on 12/29/19 at 9:24 pm to shell01
I’m doing it anyways. So I appreciate the input. I’ve seen that orange membrane on TV but not on the YouTubes I’ve watched.
Posted on 12/29/19 at 9:25 pm to lnomm34
Why is some of it black? How did you do the niche?
Posted on 12/29/19 at 9:35 pm to alajones
Tar paper over studs under the cement board.
I framed out the niche before I put the cement board over it. Lots of planning on tile spacing to be sure it didn’t end up on a weird tile line.
And the other posters point about Red Guard is important. I did a couple of coats. They also sell a tape to use for seams when you apply the Red Guard. I used that as well. Good stuff.
I framed out the niche before I put the cement board over it. Lots of planning on tile spacing to be sure it didn’t end up on a weird tile line.
And the other posters point about Red Guard is important. I did a couple of coats. They also sell a tape to use for seams when you apply the Red Guard. I used that as well. Good stuff.
Posted on 12/30/19 at 7:23 am to lnomm34
Tar paper under or fluid applied waterproofing over the cbu, but don't do both.
The foam boards are a lot easier to use than the separate membrane. Here's kerdi, but again there are plenty of other options out there now. Like cbu, you will need to tape the joints but that's about it.
The foam boards are a lot easier to use than the separate membrane. Here's kerdi, but again there are plenty of other options out there now. Like cbu, you will need to tape the joints but that's about it.
Posted on 12/30/19 at 7:36 am to lnomm34
OP, you will need a way to cut tiles. 
A project I am doing now. We had a Jacuzzi tub that was built in on a platform. Got to hard for us to get in and out of. Yep, old folk problem.
Out with the old.
In with the new tub.
The area is 72"x 48". The new tub is 68". Now I will be able to stretch out and have a cold one.
25 year old flooring and I couldn't find a match. So, brick pavers was the answer.
Problem with them. one has to put two coats of sealer before grouting. Will get that done today.
Oh, all the fill ins are installed. For my spacers, I ripped up some 3/8" plywood.
A project I am doing now. We had a Jacuzzi tub that was built in on a platform. Got to hard for us to get in and out of. Yep, old folk problem.
Out with the old.
In with the new tub.
The area is 72"x 48". The new tub is 68". Now I will be able to stretch out and have a cold one.
25 year old flooring and I couldn't find a match. So, brick pavers was the answer.
Problem with them. one has to put two coats of sealer before grouting. Will get that done today.
Oh, all the fill ins are installed. For my spacers, I ripped up some 3/8" plywood.
This post was edited on 12/30/19 at 7:39 am
Posted on 12/30/19 at 7:42 am to shell01
quote:
Tar paper under or fluid applied waterproofing over the cbu, but don't do both.
We did tar paper under the concrete board (over the studs).
We then applied mesh tape and thinset to all concrete board seams, finally we applied two coats of Red Guard (with taped seams at all corners - being very diligent in the niche) over the concert board before tiling.
Posted on 12/30/19 at 7:54 am to lnomm34
Nice work clothes ...
looks like a job well done.
looks like a job well done.
Posted on 12/30/19 at 7:54 am to shell01
So are you saying I can just use tar paper?
As in studs-tar paper-cbu-tile
Or use schluter
Studs-cbu-schluter-tile
As in studs-tar paper-cbu-tile
Or use schluter
Studs-cbu-schluter-tile
Posted on 12/30/19 at 9:49 am to alajones
Studs-tar paper-cbu (tape/thinset seams)
Studs-cbu (tape/thinset seams)-redguard
Studs-kerdiboard (tape/thinset seams)
Lots of great info from real pros who have done this for decades (and torn our a lot of rotten poorly-made bathrooms) over at the John Bridge forum.
Studs-cbu (tape/thinset seams)-redguard
Studs-kerdiboard (tape/thinset seams)
Lots of great info from real pros who have done this for decades (and torn our a lot of rotten poorly-made bathrooms) over at the John Bridge forum.
Posted on 12/30/19 at 9:52 am to fishfighter
quote:
OP, you will need a way to cut tiles.
Our tile guy quit early on in our project so we decided to DIY. Spent more than $1500 in tools to finish the job (not supplies even, just tools.). Large format tiles required a $1k damn tile saw that we hope to never need again.
This post was edited on 12/30/19 at 10:15 am
Posted on 12/30/19 at 10:32 am to shell01
quote:
Large format tiles required a $1k damn tile saw
Wut? How large are the tiles exactly?
I did my whole dining room (roughly 500 sq ft) using 18 x 18 tiles with a small crappy Skil wet tile saw and it cut perfectly.
Posted on 12/30/19 at 11:08 am to idlewatcher
I was going to rent one from Home Depot.
Posted on 12/30/19 at 11:23 am to idlewatcher
Just 12x24", but that 24" dimension meant jumping up to the more $$ saws. Bit the bullet and went with the DeWalt, it's been great, but they are really special-purpose tools. Might use it again to make a flagstone patio now that we have it, but that's about it.
Posted on 12/30/19 at 3:02 pm to shell01
quote:
Large format tiles required a $1k damn tile saw that we hope to never need again.
I'm not a pro but I've done my fair share of tile and I've watched others do a ton more. For natural stone you can just use a basic wet saw, for anything man made a $50 manual tile cutter and grinder is all you need. That's what all the immigrants use, very simple and basic and gets it done.
Given that, the Dewalt is awesome and you can easily resell that $1000 saw for $500-750 if not more.
This post was edited on 12/30/19 at 3:04 pm
Posted on 12/30/19 at 3:53 pm to baldona
I have a wet saw that will do 18", but my best go to is a grinder with a 4" concrete cutting blade. I also have a 71/2" blade too! Had cut a shite load of granite and Hardie Board.
Posted on 12/30/19 at 5:20 pm to lnomm34
Upon taking down the composite walls, looks
Like I have some sort of old tile imposter panels over shiplap.
Some of the composite boards didn’t want to come off so easily.
Next move? Tar paper over ship lap and go from there?
Like I have some sort of old tile imposter panels over shiplap.
Some of the composite boards didn’t want to come off so easily.
Next move? Tar paper over ship lap and go from there?
This post was edited on 12/30/19 at 5:28 pm
Posted on 12/30/19 at 6:15 pm to alajones
That is a start, but make sure everything is good, solid and dry.
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