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Septic System
Posted on 3/7/25 at 10:06 am
Posted on 3/7/25 at 10:06 am
I’m in the process of building a new home that will need a 500 gallon mo dad system. I received two quotes, one for a poly tank install and the other for a concrete tank. The concrete tank was about $900 more than the poly. Someone school me on what I should install.
It’s my understanding that sewer gas eats through concrete. Therefor leaning towards the poly one.
It’s my understanding that sewer gas eats through concrete. Therefor leaning towards the poly one.
5
Posted on 3/7/25 at 10:55 am to SmokinBurger
Concrete will last much longer with a proper install. It is way less susceptible to shifting soils, cleaning implements and vehicle traffic if you ever need to drive equipment near it.
Poly is a cheaper faster install since it's one premolded piece, but it will degrade and potentially crack over time from trees/traffic/improper backfill/ cleaning tools.
Concrete tank needs a lift truck, while a few guys can roll a poly tank around the yard and drop it in the hole. Concrete is exponentially less likely to float if you live in a wet area, though it can still happen if not backfilled properly and tank is left empty after install.
Poly is a cheaper faster install since it's one premolded piece, but it will degrade and potentially crack over time from trees/traffic/improper backfill/ cleaning tools.
Concrete tank needs a lift truck, while a few guys can roll a poly tank around the yard and drop it in the hole. Concrete is exponentially less likely to float if you live in a wet area, though it can still happen if not backfilled properly and tank is left empty after install.
Posted on 3/7/25 at 11:10 am to SmokinBurger
I have had a concrete system installed for about 40 years and have had no problem with the gas problem you cite. I think you would get long life out of either one.
The pumps and electrical system are what gives problems with septic systems.
The pumps and electrical system are what gives problems with septic systems.
Posted on 3/7/25 at 11:47 am to Spankum
Thank y’all both for the input. What should I be aware of with the pump? Just improper installation? Both quotes from from a different contractor who provide warranties with their work.
Posted on 3/7/25 at 12:14 pm to Spankum
quote:
The pumps and electrical system are what gives problems with septic systems.
My concrete tank has been in the ground for 33 years. No problems. Gravity system. No pump, no electrics.
Posted on 3/7/25 at 1:00 pm to SmokinBurger
I would definitely opt for the concrete tank. I have a poly one that one of the opening has collapsed and fallen in. $900 dollar upgrade upfront is way cheaper than a replacement down the road.
Posted on 3/7/25 at 3:39 pm to SmokinBurger
quote:
Thank y’all both for the input. What should I be aware of with the pump? Just improper installation? Both quotes from from a different contractor who provide warranties with their work
If you get lucky, like poppa, you won’t have much electrical. I, on the other hand, cannot have field lines (leach feild) so I have an oxidation pond a hundred yards away, so it has to have an extra pump for that. If you have sprinkler system you will have to have a pump for that too.
At the very least you will have an air compressor pumping air to the unit. I would say to be sure the electrical installation I’d done to standard with wire and connections rager for direct burial, and connections appropriately waterproofed.
Another thing to consider if you live in an area that has frequent power outages, you may want to rig yourself a way to run any pumps by generator in the event of extended outage. I wouldn’t sweat over this though.
Posted on 3/7/25 at 8:23 pm to Spankum
After talking to a neighbor about this. I’m leaning towards the concrete tank. I will need electrical installed to run the vacuum pump.
Posted on 3/7/25 at 9:24 pm to SmokinBurger
Also, put the plant as close to the house as practical…if there is a sewer blockage, it is typically in the line from the house to the plant.
Also, be sure your plant doesn’t sit in a hole where water sits in your yard. If it does, mound dirt up on top to keep rain water from pooling there.
Also, be sure your plant doesn’t sit in a hole where water sits in your yard. If it does, mound dirt up on top to keep rain water from pooling there.
Posted on 3/8/25 at 9:52 am to Spankum
Will keep that in mind. I plan on planting a Crepe Myrtle tree in the landscape in the front corner around the area where the tank will be installed. So I will need to place tank accordingly.
Posted on 3/8/25 at 3:47 pm to SmokinBurger
quote:
I plan on planting a Crepe Myrtle tree in the landscape in the front corner around the area where the tank will be installed. So I will need to place tank accordingly.
Just be aware that the crepe myrtle tree roots will seek out the water coming from your house into the system. Over time, the roots can block the flow causing a back up in the house. Ask me how I know.
Posted on 3/8/25 at 5:04 pm to sosaysmorvant
Concrete tank, nearby tree either found a bad seal between the top lid and the tank or made one. Had to dig out the lid, remove it to reseal properly, remove roots growing in the tank and cut down the tree. Or at least that’s what the septic said I paid for. He took pics of it including the root ball in the tank.
Posted on 3/8/25 at 5:12 pm to poppa1254
you don’t have an aerator pump?
OP my concrete tank has been in the ground almost 50 years. I’ve never opened the lid in the 20 years I’ve owned the house
keep the aeration running, plant no trees anywhere near the line or the tank, and don’t flush anything but piss, shite and TP. At the sinks, no grease/no solids/no chemicals
OP my concrete tank has been in the ground almost 50 years. I’ve never opened the lid in the 20 years I’ve owned the house
keep the aeration running, plant no trees anywhere near the line or the tank, and don’t flush anything but piss, shite and TP. At the sinks, no grease/no solids/no chemicals
Posted on 3/10/25 at 3:10 pm to SmokinBurger
Whats the cost of tank and install if you doing mind sharing. I will be building in the near future and this would be good to know.
Posted on 3/11/25 at 5:25 pm to SmokinBurger
Concrete tank in the ground 47 years. Field lines with no pump, lines have a gradual slope down from tank in our backyard.
Only two problems in all that time. A utility truck that had to be in our backyard ran over the field lines and crushed them so we installed new field lines. Also, a sweet gum tree that was too close to the tank got a root inside the pipe between the house and the tank (got in the line through a crack in a rubber coupling), and it grew until it blocked the pipe. Had to cut the root out and then cutdown the tree.
I have been very satisfied with my concrete tank.
Only two problems in all that time. A utility truck that had to be in our backyard ran over the field lines and crushed them so we installed new field lines. Also, a sweet gum tree that was too close to the tank got a root inside the pipe between the house and the tank (got in the line through a crack in a rubber coupling), and it grew until it blocked the pipe. Had to cut the root out and then cutdown the tree.
I have been very satisfied with my concrete tank.
Posted on 3/19/25 at 8:15 am to Elusiveporpi
Poly tank install is $4,400 and includes plumbing to home. Concrete tank install is $5,300 and does not include plumbing to home.
The plumbing to home is a very short run, less than 10' of 4" pipe.
The plumbing to home is a very short run, less than 10' of 4" pipe.
Posted on 3/19/25 at 8:17 am to cgrand
Yes, I will need an aerator pump. I think I called is a vacuum pump in an earlier post, but meant aerator.
Posted on 3/19/25 at 8:19 am to SmokinBurger
when they install the pump make sure they bring you one of those concrete pump covers it looks like a little porch over the pump. It’s better if the pump is hardwired but you can use an outlet plug if needed
Posted on 3/19/25 at 9:58 am to cgrand
Thanks for the heads up!
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