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Refinishing Wood Floors
Posted on 3/26/19 at 7:44 am
Posted on 3/26/19 at 7:44 am
First time homeowner here.
Currently in my upstairs of my house I have old carpet and vinyl flooring that is on top of the original wood floors. I'm in the middle of completely redoing the upstairs so was planning to remove the carpet and vinyl and refinish the wood underneath.
Anybody got any tips/steps to follow for refinishing wood floors?
Thanks for any info
Currently in my upstairs of my house I have old carpet and vinyl flooring that is on top of the original wood floors. I'm in the middle of completely redoing the upstairs so was planning to remove the carpet and vinyl and refinish the wood underneath.
Anybody got any tips/steps to follow for refinishing wood floors?
Thanks for any info
Posted on 3/26/19 at 8:17 am to UncleSlick
Basically, sand, stain. and finish.
I'm sure there are plenty of Youtube videos doing that.
I'm sure there are plenty of Youtube videos doing that.
Posted on 3/26/19 at 8:25 am to UncleSlick
Can be done by the homeowner, but it can be easily messed up if you don't have a good feel for the sanding machines.
You can rent what you need from tool rental places and that is your best option if you want to do it yourself.
Is the vinyl glued down? If so, that adds a layer of frustration to the project as the glue may gum up on the sanding drum as it heats up from the friction.
If you do it or hire a flooring company to do it, expect a good bit of dust for a few days.
You can rent what you need from tool rental places and that is your best option if you want to do it yourself.
Is the vinyl glued down? If so, that adds a layer of frustration to the project as the glue may gum up on the sanding drum as it heats up from the friction.
If you do it or hire a flooring company to do it, expect a good bit of dust for a few days.
Posted on 3/26/19 at 10:40 am to UncleSlick
Make sure you get a GOOD drum sander. I was in your shoes as well about 10 years ago and I re-did mine. You'll definitely want to get the hang of how the machine operates and how much top layer it takes off; otherwise, you'll have grooves in your floors
Also, in the corners where the drum sander can't be used, you can use a regular higher powered orbital sander.
Good luck and upload some photos
Also, in the corners where the drum sander can't be used, you can use a regular higher powered orbital sander.
Good luck and upload some photos
Posted on 3/26/19 at 11:39 am to idlewatcher
If one was hiring a professional would it be cheaper to refinish or replace? Newer construction on a cement slab.
Posted on 3/26/19 at 11:58 am to UncleSlick
Sanding is the easy part. Tons of videos on how to do it. I would remove the base boards if possible to allow the machine to get as close to the wall as possible. At a minimum remove the ¼ round. Go over the entire surface and countersink all nails. Remove any foreign substance (like glue). If there are any big dents, use a wet cloth and an iron to get them out.
Getting rid of all the dust then finishing the floor is the tough part. Isolate each room you are doing to contain the dust you generate (temp. walls with plastic sheathing). Use mineral spirts soaked rags to wipe down everything, multiple times, over a couple of days (ceiling, walls, floors, etc). That fine powder settles very slowly. If any settles down on wet polyurethane it will make the finish look like shite. Rough up the surface between coats with fine steel wool followed by another wipe down with mineral spirits. Use booties and make sure you don’t track anything into the room with you. There is noting worse than a beautiful refinished floor with a hair stuck off in the finish.
Expect 1 day to sand then ~ 3 days to finish it (with at least 24 hours between coats IF the humidity is low). Then another 48 hours before putting traffic on it. I’d wait at least a week before brining furniture back in. Or go with one of those fast drying water based finishes that won’t last a year.
Getting rid of all the dust then finishing the floor is the tough part. Isolate each room you are doing to contain the dust you generate (temp. walls with plastic sheathing). Use mineral spirts soaked rags to wipe down everything, multiple times, over a couple of days (ceiling, walls, floors, etc). That fine powder settles very slowly. If any settles down on wet polyurethane it will make the finish look like shite. Rough up the surface between coats with fine steel wool followed by another wipe down with mineral spirits. Use booties and make sure you don’t track anything into the room with you. There is noting worse than a beautiful refinished floor with a hair stuck off in the finish.
Expect 1 day to sand then ~ 3 days to finish it (with at least 24 hours between coats IF the humidity is low). Then another 48 hours before putting traffic on it. I’d wait at least a week before brining furniture back in. Or go with one of those fast drying water based finishes that won’t last a year.
Posted on 3/26/19 at 1:59 pm to UncleSlick
We just had ours professionally done. We had to move out for 3 days.
My main takeaway is to prepare for more dust than you could ever imagine. Don’t be lazy. Do everything you can to protect ALL your furniture, your drapes, and your clothes throughout the house. Staple plastic sheets over doors to rooms you are not refinishing. Keep your AC off for the whole time, even overnight when you are not actively working.
My main takeaway is to prepare for more dust than you could ever imagine. Don’t be lazy. Do everything you can to protect ALL your furniture, your drapes, and your clothes throughout the house. Staple plastic sheets over doors to rooms you are not refinishing. Keep your AC off for the whole time, even overnight when you are not actively working.
Posted on 3/26/19 at 5:15 pm to geauxnc0308
Sanding is actually the hardest part these days. I'm doing the oak floors in my house and with modern stain and urethane finishing systems you only need a day after sanding. As far as sanding goes, if the floors are in good condition and don't need heavy finish removal and leveling then an orbital sander will work ok and there's very little risk even with a novice behind it. Drum sanders are much faster and more economical overall but you have to have a plan and get up the learning curve quickly. In my case, I'm not trying to level the floors nor am I looking for a perfect result since it's an older house and there's something to be said for character so I'm using a drum sander with 100 and 220 grits and touching up spots the my large rotary and palm sanders. I have a cordless oscillating tool for sanding the tight corners and spots around doors. I'm using Minwax stain and floor finish, the finish can recoat in an hour with no sanding between coats. I have a large shopvac plumbed into a Dust Deputy seperator that I connect to the sanders as well as the floor after sanding, between that and running heavy duty fans and air movers to pull/push air through the windows I've had very little extra dust to worry about.
Posted on 3/26/19 at 6:36 pm to UncleSlick
what do you do for a living? what is your time worth.
here is what is going to happen you are going to rent equipment screw up your floors and they will look like crap and you will pay someone to fix it.
pay a professional with references your time is worth more than screwing up your floors. You can't rent professional sanders yes edgers but not drum sanders you can rent diy sanders but its not the same equipment. Depending on where you live probably going to pay 2.75 -3.75 a ² foot. do the math on the rental.
here is what is going to happen you are going to rent equipment screw up your floors and they will look like crap and you will pay someone to fix it.
pay a professional with references your time is worth more than screwing up your floors. You can't rent professional sanders yes edgers but not drum sanders you can rent diy sanders but its not the same equipment. Depending on where you live probably going to pay 2.75 -3.75 a ² foot. do the math on the rental.
Posted on 3/27/19 at 6:36 am to UncleSlick
I refinished the original oak in my old house. It was a horrible experience for me. It was the first time using a drum sander and I fricked up a few spots. And the dust is ridonkadonk.
Posted on 3/27/19 at 7:27 am to Cracker
Unless you are paying top dollar don’t expect a flooring crew to make the floor perfect either. The main difference is that you didn’t do it so you don’t always notice all the small mistakes you do notice when you do it yourself.
Posted on 3/27/19 at 2:32 pm to UncleSlick
Where do you live I’ll trade out the work in crawfish!
This post was edited on 3/27/19 at 2:33 pm
Posted on 3/27/19 at 3:40 pm to Daygo85
quote:
If one was hiring a professional would it be cheaper to refinish or replace? Newer construction on a cement slab.
Depends on if you even DIY bro.
If money is no option, hire someone else. If you're interested in doing it yourself and to save $$, do it yourself. I was broke as hell after the downpayment so I had to do everything myself and came out great, but it's a lot of work.
Posted on 3/28/19 at 9:03 pm to idlewatcher
Independently engaged in repair is a big load and long time. If you never done repairs you must to study everything from scratch a lot does not work the first time and a lot of materials deteriorate. When I polished my pine floors it took me 10 times longer than the wage worker but in the end I tried a lot of different equipment the highest quality and most reliable cutting machine Delta mini lathe this website This is my best assistant.
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