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preparing (repairing?) a bed for planting - not sure what to do

Posted on 5/4/26 at 1:51 pm
Posted by Sam Quint
Member since Sep 2022
8871 posts
Posted on 5/4/26 at 1:51 pm
i am in the process of clearing a bed down the side of my house that i allowed to get totally overgrown. it was absolutely full of trash trees and vines and all kinds of junk, not even sure what all of it was. i pretty much ripped it all out down to the dirt. i've taken out the majority of the stumps that i could get to with my sawzall. however, the entire bed is absolutely chock full of roots and runners all through it. i'm sure some of it is still alive and will want to grow back. i'm not sure what the next steps are to try to kill all this stuff (best i can) and get this bed ready for planting some new hedges or something. advice?
Posted by Weekend Warrior79
Member since Aug 2014
21733 posts
Posted on 5/4/26 at 1:53 pm to
Having a similar issues, although I know mine had a bunch of Azella's. Right now, our current plan is to dig up about 3' of dirt and restart; but curious what others will have to say
Posted by Salmon
I helped draft the email
Member since Feb 2008
86182 posts
Posted on 5/4/26 at 1:53 pm to
solarization
Posted by Sam Quint
Member since Sep 2022
8871 posts
Posted on 5/4/26 at 2:15 pm to
quote:


Having a similar issues, although I know mine had a bunch of Azella's. Right now, our current plan is to dig up about 3' of dirt and restart; but curious what others will have to say

same here with the azaleas, plus a bunch of other stuff. it seriously seems like the top three or four inches are just root spaghetti.
Posted by cgrand
HAMMOND
Member since Oct 2009
48947 posts
Posted on 5/4/26 at 3:48 pm to
it really depends on what you had in there. If it was Chinese invasives like privet and tallow the stumps will absolutely resprout. If it was old shrubs or similar they may not.

You should dig out any suspicious stumps left in the ground…get the bed soaked with water first then get in there and dig up what you can. If there are any really big ones that you can’t get, drill a hole in the top of the stump and CAREFULLY inject uncut Triclopyr into the hole. Do not let that shite get all up in the soil though.

After you’ve done as much removal by hand as you can, add whatever dirt is needed, cover with cardboard, wet everything good and cover with a tarp for the rest of the summer.

You should be good to go to replant in the fall
Posted by cgrand
HAMMOND
Member since Oct 2009
48947 posts
Posted on 5/4/26 at 3:49 pm to
By the way, the next time you have to do this, pulling up the trees with a chain on the bumper of your truck or tractor is 10x easier and more effective
Posted by TU Rob
Birmingham
Member since Nov 2008
13476 posts
Posted on 5/4/26 at 4:10 pm to
How thick are the roots/vines, and do you have a tiller? Did something similar about 10 years ago, creating a little home garden bed. The tiller didn't chew them all up, but helped to loosen them and let me rip the rest out. It was a labor of love, but one afternoon of sweating and cussing and nothing has grown back except the vegetables I plant every spring.
Posted by Sam Quint
Member since Sep 2022
8871 posts
Posted on 5/5/26 at 9:46 am to
quote:

How thick are the roots/vines, and do you have a tiller? Did something similar about 10 years ago, creating a little home garden bed. The tiller didn't chew them all up, but helped to loosen them and let me rip the rest out. It was a labor of love, but one afternoon of sweating and cussing and nothing has grown back except the vegetables I plant every spring.

there are a few big ones but for the most part probably 1/2" or less. just a frick ton of them.
Posted by CrawDude
Baton Rouge
Member since Apr 2019
5837 posts
Posted on 5/5/26 at 10:58 am to
quote:

there are a few big ones but for the most part probably 1/2" or less. just a frick ton of them.


Pretty much been there, and done that. Largely done what cgrand suggested to you. Very likely most “trees” won’t grow back (depends on what they were), vines most likely will. Purchase concentrated trichlopyr (Brushtox, 61.6% trichlopyr, $35 for a quart) from Tractor Supply, a 1 inch or smaller, cheap, throwaway paint brush from HD or Lowe’s, and any vine or “trees stump” that re-spouts cut it and immediately paint the freshly cut stump with concentrated trichlopyr - it will kill them and you’ll get rid of everything undesirable overtime.

In my case, after clearing the area I’ll immediately brought in “garden soil” (composted forestry products, readily available at larger retail garden centers in bulk) to build the landscape bed(s) about 12 inches above grade (it will settle by 1/2 over time) and immediately planted. Of course, I have heavy clay soils where I live so slightly raised landscape beds are almost essential to success (draining and to insure newly planted material roots don’t sit in waterlogged soil), plus it’s aesthetic.

If you want to plant woody shrubs it might be best to wait until late fall-early winter although you can plant container shrubs now, but you’ll need to religiously water and care for them during the heat of summer. Fall-winter planting of woody shrubs significant reduces stress of planting and gives you much larger safety margin. If you go with fall-early winter planting of shrubs just plant the newly renovated area with annual flowers, perhaps some perennials, that you and the significant other like, to enjoy over the summer and early fall.

Anyway, I’ve done this in past, and actually doing it now in a bed I’m renovating, and it’s worked for me. I didn’t wait until fall-early winter to replant something enjoyable in the newly cleaned and renovated beds even though it was the beginning of summer.
Posted by cgrand
HAMMOND
Member since Oct 2009
48947 posts
Posted on 5/5/26 at 3:44 pm to
Before…weedy viney briar-ey mess





It was full of dewberry, elderberry, trumpet vine, Virginia creeper, ragweed and goldenrod plus various and assorted weeds and grasses

After…I didn’t get everything that would have been impossible but I got a lot, and now I can manage it selectively









I’m not going to tarp this, as an experiment. The area next to this was as bad or worse, and it’s been tarped since February


Posted by Herschal
USA
Member since Sep 2011
2210 posts
Posted on 5/6/26 at 9:47 am to
quote:

full of trash trees and vines and all kinds of junk


Similar situation.

Currently trying to destroy all the Virginia creepers. About to give up and just throw some bags of pool salt along the fence line. Obviously we would not replant anything in its place, but IDK how else to combat it.
Posted by WITNESS23
Member since Feb 2010
13863 posts
Posted on 5/6/26 at 1:03 pm to
I am combating this with my neighbors overgrown mess.
She's 90 and touched the yard in years and when we moved in the fence and all of the Azaleas down it were completely choked out by mostly Virginia creeper and brushkiller vine.
I've gotten in her side of the fence and pulled up as much as I possibly can and cut and painted stump killer on the exposed parts I couldn't pull up.

I'm interested to see how several Saturdays and Sundays worth of dealing with that mess pan out.
I'm sure it'll be back in short order
Posted by cgrand
HAMMOND
Member since Oct 2009
48947 posts
Posted on 5/6/26 at 1:16 pm to
VA creeper is a native, it’s gets everywhere but doesn’t cause any damage. Just get a hold of a vine and pull it back to the root and rip it out. It will come back but they really aren’t a huge problem

You do need to get the brush killer out, highly invasive and will kill the azaleas. Pull out a vine and stuff it into a bucket of Triclopyr for a couple days, then move to the next one. It will kill it
Posted by WITNESS23
Member since Feb 2010
13863 posts
Posted on 5/6/26 at 1:26 pm to
Yea the brushkiller took out 3 of the 8 azeleas.

Thanks for the tip.

Posted by Tree_Fall
Member since Mar 2021
1248 posts
Posted on 5/7/26 at 10:45 am to
I had an out of control Nandina thicket along one side of my house. The guy trying to remove it first cut root mat with an axe... very slow going. Then he rented a walk-behind stump grinder using it like a tiller. To finish, he raked and discarded the root chunks. Nandina never returned. Might work for you.

I also learned to pay more attention to the sides of the house if the driveway blocks drainage. I eventually added a gutter on that side.
Posted by Sam Quint
Member since Sep 2022
8871 posts
Posted on 5/7/26 at 10:58 am to
i wish i knew what literally any of these plants were before i ripped them all out so i could ask more guided questions. like i have no idea what vines they were.

what is brushkiller? never even heard of it until this thread
Posted by cgrand
HAMMOND
Member since Oct 2009
48947 posts
Posted on 5/7/26 at 11:00 am to
yeah nandina is a noxious pest. Nobody should ever plant that shite on purpose. Not only is it invasive it’s extremely toxic (cyanide)

I’m a free society do-what-you-want person in every respect except for the biosphere. Nandina should be outlawed for retail sale, but there it is in every big nursery in the country
Posted by cgrand
HAMMOND
Member since Oct 2009
48947 posts
Posted on 5/7/26 at 11:07 am to
Bush killer vine is an Asian invasive. It looks similar to Virginia creeper except its 5 leaves are different sizes compared to all the same size. You’d know if you had it because that’s all you would have

Most likely you had creeper it looks like this

Posted by Sam Quint
Member since Sep 2022
8871 posts
Posted on 5/7/26 at 11:18 am to
yeah that looks like what it was.

does it have thorns? i had a couple strands of something with really pronounced thorns.
Posted by cgrand
HAMMOND
Member since Oct 2009
48947 posts
Posted on 5/7/26 at 11:33 am to
quote:

really pronounced thorns.
probably common greenbrier or other smilax. If the leaves were green and glossy and the vine stems smooth it was that. Native vines that are also edible and crucial as wildlife forage

they are pretty easy to control if so, but you need to dig out the big white tuber that’s underground or it will come right back.
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