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re: Post your lawn program
Posted on 4/17/20 at 5:06 pm to HoustonGumbeauxGuy
Posted on 4/17/20 at 5:06 pm to HoustonGumbeauxGuy
Looks like your across the street neighbors gave up long ago 
Posted on 4/17/20 at 5:28 pm to HoustonGumbeauxGuy
I'm not saying that is not your lawn but if you live in Houston you wouldn't have the grass type to do that. And that is a very popular image used by several different companies.
And if that is your lawn then great job. It's better than mine.
And if that is your lawn then great job. It's better than mine.
Posted on 4/17/20 at 7:45 pm to bayoubengals88
I didn’t want to be insulting because that is somebody’s lawn.
Posted on 4/17/20 at 8:26 pm to ronk
Is naive to think you could have a quality lawn (with turf grass like zoysia or Bermuda) like that on a larger property without any irrigation system? I’m working to get my yard in shape during this quarantine and my goal is to establish a quality lawn over my large property. I can water it while it’s establishing (sodded, seeded, plugged, etc.), but after it’s established just let it grow naturally (treatment and fertilizer, but only rainwater).
Posted on 4/17/20 at 9:20 pm to LSUtigerME
Narrow down your question and what’s your location.
Posted on 4/17/20 at 10:30 pm to jimbeam
I didn’t want to Jack your thread...just looking at that pic, it’s probably 1.5-2 acres at least.
Is it feasible to have a well manicured lawn that size or larger? For example, sodding zoysia or St. Aug in sections at a time? Seeding Bermuda? Watering in and establishing and then moving on to the next section?
Otherwise, what grass are you supposed to have if there’s nothing there now?
Is it feasible to have a well manicured lawn that size or larger? For example, sodding zoysia or St. Aug in sections at a time? Seeding Bermuda? Watering in and establishing and then moving on to the next section?
Otherwise, what grass are you supposed to have if there’s nothing there now?
Posted on 4/17/20 at 10:34 pm to LSUtigerME
Like mine or like that other picture? Mine, yes as long as it’s bermuda. Tif is drought resistant so in Louisiana you will get plenty enough water. Your key will be mowing when the lawn needs it and not when you want to. Also access to quality fert. If in Baton Rouge you’ll have to ask craw about available fert as I’m in Dallas and use different fert.
This post was edited on 4/17/20 at 10:57 pm
Posted on 4/17/20 at 10:57 pm to LSUtigerME
What picture are you talking about? That picture of a world class lawn? No, you won’t achieve that. That’s not a warm season grass.
Posted on 4/17/20 at 11:20 pm to ronk
I’m not talking about the stripes or the fescue itself. Just the idea of having multiple acreage of quality grass without irrigation, not a typical 1/2 acre neighborhood lot.
Bermuda is a good example since it can be seeded. I’ve been looking at Arden 15/Princess 77.
Bermuda is a good example since it can be seeded. I’ve been looking at Arden 15/Princess 77.
Posted on 4/18/20 at 5:29 am to ronk
Jesus I feel like a lazy piece of shite reading that. My lawn is starting to look decent but I’d really like some suggestions on if there is anything else I need to do.
Lawn is Centipede that was just laid a year and a half ago. Soil conditions are pretty shitty so I’m considering aeration and top dressing.
1. Milorganite when the grass starts to come out of dormancy.
2. Spot spray weeds.
3. Mow at 2 1/4 inches
4. Pull weeds when I see them. And fill holes my a-hole dogs dog with their own shite and masonry sand.
5. Milorganite again in June.
6. Spray insecticide on the millions of those little orange striped bugs that fly around when I walk through my grass.
7. Water as much as I can when we’re not getting regular rain throughout spring and summer.
8. Cut it close for the last cut of the winter.
Lawn is Centipede that was just laid a year and a half ago. Soil conditions are pretty shitty so I’m considering aeration and top dressing.
1. Milorganite when the grass starts to come out of dormancy.
2. Spot spray weeds.
3. Mow at 2 1/4 inches
4. Pull weeds when I see them. And fill holes my a-hole dogs dog with their own shite and masonry sand.
5. Milorganite again in June.
6. Spray insecticide on the millions of those little orange striped bugs that fly around when I walk through my grass.
7. Water as much as I can when we’re not getting regular rain throughout spring and summer.
8. Cut it close for the last cut of the winter.
Posted on 4/18/20 at 6:25 am to ronk
service comes by once a quarter or as needed to spray some liquid shite on the entire yard, no weeds or disease, I mow once a week at 3", lawn be tick and dark green, wife is happy baws...
Posted on 4/18/20 at 7:46 am to LSUtigerME
Arden 15 is replacing princess 77 so I don’t know if you can find 77. Technically you can have a fantastic yard with a couple acres but it’s going to take work. Do you have a tractor with a dry hopper for fert? It’s going to take fert to look nice. If you’re in south Louisiana you should get enough rain to maintain it. Arden is drought resistant.
Posted on 4/18/20 at 7:47 am to tilco
That’s not a bad program. I’d do a potash fert in November/December. The dog is going to be an issue especially if it’s female.
Posted on 4/18/20 at 9:18 am to ronk
quote:
ronk
Thanks. Yes, I have a tractor, a zero turn mower, a 100+ lb fert spreader, boomless sprayer, etc.
To get back on track, my current plan/program for establishment is as follows:
Kill all the existing grass with glyphosate
Spread Lime to raise pH
Disk/Till the existing compacted soil and level
Mix in sand/clean river silt
Spread starter fertilizer (ideally a 1-1-1 mix, but all I could find without sulfur was a Scott’s 25-25-4)
Lay sod or seed
Water twice a day for a couple weeks until established
I’ve been reading in the lawn forums about people using frequent fert applications on new grass (seed, sod, or plugs) to really promote rapid growth and fill-in. Like 1/4 lb N every week or two. However, I couldn’t find any recommendations or guidelines to do it. Most new sod/seed recommendations are not to fertilize until 3rd cut.
For the established lawn I have now:
High N Fertilizer in April, 3/4 lb N
Minimal weeds so spot treat only
Mow at 2.5-3”
TBD for future treatments. Fert again in early summer, spot treat for fungus, bugs, weeds, etc.
Posted on 4/18/20 at 10:26 am to LSUtigerME
You’ve got quite the set up. I’m assuming you’ve had the soil tested and the lime is needed. Glyphosate binds tightly with the soil so it’s virtually inactive after a day so seeding/sodding will be ok a week or two after application.
Mow height is good for st aug but drop it down if it’s bermuda. I would be careful pushing growth on new sod/seed as it could become chlorotic.
Honestly it sounds like you’ll be able to acres of grass as long as you don’t have a severe drought. You’ve got the tools to do it.
Mow height is good for st aug but drop it down if it’s bermuda. I would be careful pushing growth on new sod/seed as it could become chlorotic.
Honestly it sounds like you’ll be able to acres of grass as long as you don’t have a severe drought. You’ve got the tools to do it.
Posted on 4/18/20 at 11:40 am to ronk
quote:
That’s not a bad program. I’d do a potash fert in November/December. The dog is going to be an issue especially if it’s female.
Any recommendations for potash? I’ve never dealt with it.
And I have two dogs.....both female
Posted on 4/18/20 at 1:12 pm to tilco
Lesco has 0-0-62 and it’s a wetable powder.
Male dogs to aim at things. Trees, fences, your house. Females piss in the grass.
Male dogs to aim at things. Trees, fences, your house. Females piss in the grass.
Posted on 4/18/20 at 1:33 pm to ronk
Honestly my biggest issue at the moment is the cat. She shits and pisses in the yard and the dogs dig little holes where she went.
I guess it’s better than a litter box in the house. I’m considering building her an outhouse in the back yard with kitty litter in it.
I guess it’s better than a litter box in the house. I’m considering building her an outhouse in the back yard with kitty litter in it.
This post was edited on 4/18/20 at 1:34 pm
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