- My Forums
- Tiger Rant
- LSU Recruiting
- SEC Rant
- Saints Talk
- Pelicans Talk
- More Sports Board
- Fantasy Sports
- Golf Board
- Soccer Board
- O-T Lounge
- Tech Board
- Home/Garden Board
- Outdoor Board
- Health/Fitness Board
- Movie/TV Board
- Book Board
- Music Board
- Political Talk
- Money Talk
- Fark Board
- Gaming Board
- Travel Board
- Food/Drink Board
- Ticket Exchange
- TD Help Board
Customize My Forums- View All Forums
- Show Left Links
- Topic Sort Options
- Trending Topics
- Recent Topics
- Active Topics
Started By
Message
1
Posted on 9/26/24 at 2:24 pm to guedeaux
quote:
Damn. I do my own, but I would definitely pay that much each month instead.
I was on the fence about doing it myself until this dude came by. He’s been awesome and idk how he can afford to do it, I’ve even offered to pay him more if chemicals costs are increasing. That includes one filter clean a year, but I usually pay him for second at some point. He’ll do a second visit pretty often if I’m getting any issues or if I let him know we’re having a pool party or something.
Posted on 9/26/24 at 2:51 pm to notbilly
quote:
These guys have saved me so much time and money. I spend less than 15 minutes a week on my pool. My pool water is crystal clear. Every time I go to someone else's pool, I become silently judgemental of their water clarity.
This is legitimately a thing. I never realized just how crystal clear water could look. My standards were way too low until I started following their advice.
Posted on 9/26/24 at 3:35 pm to Ziggy
Here is my Google note telling you what to test, when to test it, and why. I log my values weekly in the blanks:
FC – Free Chlorine – for CYA at 30ppm, keep at 2-6ppm. Raise with household bleach, falls with time and sunlight. Test FC and adjust weekly.
VALUE:
CC – Combined Chlorine – CC over 0.5ppm indicates a problem. Should stay at or near 0. If over 0.5, SLAM pool. Test weekly.
VALUE:
TC Total Chlorine = FC + CC.
PH – lower with muriatic acid. Raise with borax or soda ash. 7.2 to 8.0. 7.7 is ideal. Test weekly.
VALUE:
TA – Total Alkalinity – Appropriate levels help keep the pH in balance. High levels can cause pH to rise. Raise with baking soda. Lower by adding acid to get pH of 7.0 - 7.2, then aerate with jets and waterfall until pH rises to 7.6. (50 to 90ppm, sometimes higher). Test weekly.
VALUE:
Drop TA TO 50 TO ACCOUNT FOR HIGH ACID DEMAND POOLS
CH – Calcium Hardness (Ca+ level) – Appropriate levels help prevent plaster damage. High levels can cause calcium scaling. Increase with calcium chloride and lower by replacing water. (250 to 650ppm). Test weekly.
VALUE:
CYA – Stabilizer. Increase by adding cyanuric acid. Lower by replacing water. (outdoors 30 to 60ppm). Test weekly.
VALUE:
FC – Free Chlorine – for CYA at 30ppm, keep at 2-6ppm. Raise with household bleach, falls with time and sunlight. Test FC and adjust weekly.
VALUE:
CC – Combined Chlorine – CC over 0.5ppm indicates a problem. Should stay at or near 0. If over 0.5, SLAM pool. Test weekly.
VALUE:
TC Total Chlorine = FC + CC.
PH – lower with muriatic acid. Raise with borax or soda ash. 7.2 to 8.0. 7.7 is ideal. Test weekly.
VALUE:
TA – Total Alkalinity – Appropriate levels help keep the pH in balance. High levels can cause pH to rise. Raise with baking soda. Lower by adding acid to get pH of 7.0 - 7.2, then aerate with jets and waterfall until pH rises to 7.6. (50 to 90ppm, sometimes higher). Test weekly.
VALUE:
Drop TA TO 50 TO ACCOUNT FOR HIGH ACID DEMAND POOLS
CH – Calcium Hardness (Ca+ level) – Appropriate levels help prevent plaster damage. High levels can cause calcium scaling. Increase with calcium chloride and lower by replacing water. (250 to 650ppm). Test weekly.
VALUE:
CYA – Stabilizer. Increase by adding cyanuric acid. Lower by replacing water. (outdoors 30 to 60ppm). Test weekly.
VALUE:
This post was edited on 9/26/24 at 3:53 pm
Posted on 9/26/24 at 6:58 pm to tigerfoot
quote:
My pool eats acid.
I used to as well. Running my water features will raise the pH so I then I'd need to add acid to bring the pH back down. I installed valves that I can control from my app so now only run the water features when I'm outside and want the background noise.
quote:
Do you find the tablets help w the CYA equivalent to adding stabilizer.
Yep. I only use tablets when I need to raise my CYA and/or I'm leaving town for more than a couple of days.
Posted on 9/26/24 at 9:35 pm to tigerfoot
quote:
Thanks. That is good info, I started with TFP when i installed pool and the only issue I have is Cl consumption due to cya drops
Use the tablets in an inline chlorinator until the CYA is right. Easy fix.
Posted on 9/27/24 at 5:56 am to Tigerlaff
quote:
Tigerlaff
Thank you sir.
Do you have a good link to that Taylor 2006 test kit you mentioned previously?
Posted on 9/27/24 at 8:47 pm to Ziggy
I do my own and the Taylor 2006 kit is well worth it. I struggled often before buying it. I think it's around $100? give or take but it has saved me 10x that in wasted chemicals.
This post was edited on 9/27/24 at 8:48 pm
Posted on 9/27/24 at 10:54 pm to Ziggy
LINK
Here you go.
To the poster above, yeah. You simply cannot do this without a real test kit. Got a friend who has been trying to do it with strips for a year and having no success. Can lead a horse to (clear) water....
Here you go.
To the poster above, yeah. You simply cannot do this without a real test kit. Got a friend who has been trying to do it with strips for a year and having no success. Can lead a horse to (clear) water....
This post was edited on 9/27/24 at 10:56 pm
Posted on 9/27/24 at 11:17 pm to Tigerlaff
Thank you sir.
Page 2 of 2
Popular
Back to top
Follow TigerDroppings for LSU Football News