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Planting native grasses in pines

Posted on 1/17/22 at 2:31 pm
Posted by bluemoons
the marsh
Member since Oct 2012
5511 posts
Posted on 1/17/22 at 2:31 pm
I originally posted this on the OB. I’m looking for some info on native pine savannah grasses and the ability to seed them. I am currently building a house and the front 4ish acres is mostly loblolly pine with some hardwood mixed in. I just had the property forestry mulched to chew up all the privet and junk. It doesn’t get enough sunlight to grow turf grass and I hate grass anyway. I’m really interested in direct seeding some native pine savannah grass, namely Cherokee sedge. My thought would be to spray some preemergent in February, 2-4d in March, then seed the native grass.

Has anybody done anything like this with success?

This photo is wiregrass, but it's a good example of what I'm trying to accomplish:



Posted by Zappas Stache
Utility Muffin Research Kitchen
Member since Apr 2009
38673 posts
Posted on 1/17/22 at 3:37 pm to
I've done similar things on projects, I am an LA. No matter what you do, you are going to have volunteer stuff come up after 3 or 4 years or sooner and you are either going to have to pull it out or let it grow so be prepared for that. Of course, prescribed burning is how large landowners/governmental agencies maintain their under story but I'm guessing you don't have that much land or want to deal with burning. I would also be careful with the cherokee sedge as it won't take full shade and needs moist soil, so you need to water/irrigate it. There are some other options that can take shade and don't need as much water. Look at Creek sedge (carex blanda), Sand Love Grass, Inland Sea Oats and Canada Wild Rye. Those last 3 will go dormant in the winter like the grass in your pics.
Posted by BottomlandBrew
Member since Aug 2010
27091 posts
Posted on 1/17/22 at 8:50 pm to
Short answer: It's a lot more work than it should be.

Invasive control is your #1 task when establishing it. It can take a few years to get it established, and you can lose it all in a season if it's not maintained properly. You'd think it would be easy to establish plants that are native, but the competition is fierce. You can end up with a prairie full of privet, ragweed, and tallow trees faster than you can blink. You also have the issue of needing prescribed burns. A lot of your native understory species are going to need fire to properly germinate their seeds and kill of competitors. It's virtually impossible to maintain on a large scale without fire.

If you're really serious, contact Marc Pastorek. I consulted with him a few times when I practiced landscape architecture in New Orleans, namely Lafitte Greenway and a few smaller projects. He is the go-to along the coast for large-scale native grasses and plants.

quote:

Inland Sea Oats


One of my favorite plants. I'm on year three of establishing a large planting along my creek buffer. I started out with a handful of seeds I stole off a plant somewhere. So far so good. Just trying to keep the honeysuckle and privet out. And fricking Virginia creeper. Pain in my arse.
This post was edited on 1/17/22 at 8:57 pm
Posted by Cracker
in a box
Member since Nov 2009
17685 posts
Posted on 1/17/22 at 8:58 pm to
First BURN it! Second look up native plant guy on Instagram zip him a message that’s what he does
Posted by TimeOutdoors
AK
Member since Sep 2014
12121 posts
Posted on 1/18/22 at 11:35 am to
We’ve done wire grass in long leaf areas in the past. Took several years of control burns to get it established. Not sure how it would work with other pines.
Posted by Cowboyfan89
Member since Sep 2015
12715 posts
Posted on 1/18/22 at 6:43 pm to
quote:

My thought would be to spray some preemergent in February, 2-4d in March, then seed the native grass.

Getting alittle late in the planting window for Native grasses, but not too late. Generally, the earlier you plant native species, the better they do. Most require a cold stratification period. Basically, they need to be in the ground for a certain length of time when the ground is cold.

Marc Pastorek was recommended earlier, and while Marc and I don't always see eye to eye on things, he is very knowledgeable in this department, especially if you are in SELA.

NRCS also has staff knowledgeable in native grass plantings.

Keep in mind though, most native grasses are adapted to fire, while most hardwoods are not. Controlling undesirable species is going to be more challenging if you can't burn it.

As someone else said, Cherokee sedge might not be the best option depending on site conditions. If you want a true grass, little bluestem might be a good one, or one of the native paspalums. Gamagrass and some of the other bluestems are options as well, but will be taller.

If you want something closer to a pine savanna, throw some forbs/wildflowers in as well. Sunflowers, liatris, false indigo are all good options for some bright color and diversity.
Posted by bluemoons
the marsh
Member since Oct 2012
5511 posts
Posted on 1/19/22 at 7:48 am to
We are on the northshore. I don’t see why I wouldn’t be able to burn, but I don’t know anything about it so I need to explore that option. The area to be planted is realistically only about 1.5 acres. Just so I’m clear, should I be considering a burn instead of spraying PRIOR to spreading seed, or after?

One of my concerns is the seeds germinating with the mulch. I had the mulching guy take it down pretty close to bare soil, so my hope is that with either a tiller or a drag I could get good soil contact.
Posted by Cowboyfan89
Member since Sep 2015
12715 posts
Posted on 1/19/22 at 11:50 am to
quote:

Just so I’m clear, should I be considering a burn instead of spraying PRIOR to spreading seed, or after?

Either/Or. Depending on what is there now, a burn may do the trick if it's vegetation that doesn't tolerate burning well. Being on the Northshore, if it's in an area that was historically longleaf pine, burning may actually be a good option from the simple fact that it may have a native seed bank already. If it hasn't had any fire on it in many years, the seed bank may just be suppressed and need a good fire to wake it up.

quote:

One of my concerns is the seeds germinating with the mulch. I had the mulching guy take it down pretty close to bare soil, so my hope is that with either a tiller or a drag I could get good soil contact.

If it's pretty close to bare ground, you should be able to get good contact. Personally, I would recommend using a drill. It might take alittle longer, but you won't need as much seed, and as long as it's calibrated right, you will get good soil contact. If there is too much mulch, though, that can be a problem.
Posted by Zappas Stache
Utility Muffin Research Kitchen
Member since Apr 2009
38673 posts
Posted on 1/19/22 at 1:24 pm to
Here is a Study the USDA did on getting seeds to germinate in a Pine Savanna where they did just tree thinning, herbicide treatment and a combo.
Posted by turkish
Member since Aug 2016
1749 posts
Posted on 1/19/22 at 1:33 pm to
I don’t think you’ll have good germination with mulch still there.
Posted by bluemoons
the marsh
Member since Oct 2012
5511 posts
Posted on 1/19/22 at 2:22 pm to
quote:

Personally, I would recommend using a drill.


Any idea if I could rent one of these to pull behind a fourwheeler or sxs? They look pretty expensive.

Here's a photo of part of the front of the property for reference:

This post was edited on 1/19/22 at 2:29 pm
Posted by Cowboyfan89
Member since Sep 2015
12715 posts
Posted on 1/19/22 at 7:19 pm to
quote:

Any idea if I could rent one of these to pull behind a fourwheeler or sxs?

I know you can rent bigger ones that are pulled behind tractors. Check with the local Co-ops and Soil and Water Conservation Districts. They often have drills available to rent, but those are generally the bigger ones. They may not have one that can be pulled behind a fourwheeler or sxs, but they might know where you could find one to rent.

An alternative would be a broadcast seeder followed by a packer or light disk if all you have access to is a fourwheeler or sxs. Some of those small native seeds can be difficult to broadcast, though.

One method I've seen and used myself is to mix the seeds with pine straw or some other carrier to make it easier to spread them. You can spread that by hand pretty easily.

Do you know what the soil type/soil series is? That can tell you alot about potential species that would grow well on your property. Some of them even have Ecological Site Descriptions attached to them now, which give you an abundance of information on plant communities.
Posted by bluemoons
the marsh
Member since Oct 2012
5511 posts
Posted on 1/19/22 at 9:16 pm to
Per the USDA, the soil is myatt fine sandy loam. The NRCS's soil map survey says that it's mostly slash pine, loblolly, sweet gum, and various oaks, but it doesn't say anything (that I can find) about the seed bank or understory plantings.

I will reach out to a couple of feed stores to see about renting a drill. I also have access to a tractor and a rotary tiller, so that plus a drag or harrow might be a good alternative as well.

FYI, I got some info today from my local LSU AG extension office that Marc Pastorek has moved to Colorado.
Posted by Cowboyfan89
Member since Sep 2015
12715 posts
Posted on 1/19/22 at 10:04 pm to
quote:

FYI, I got some info today from my local LSU AG extension office that Marc Pastorek has moved to Colorado.

Oh I completely forgot about that. Now that I think about it, he mentioned that the last time we talked, but that was over a year ago now.

quote:

Per the USDA, the soil is myatt fine sandy loam.

Ooh, yeah, that can be a pretty wet soil, and a definite longleaf pine soil in SELA. It's one of the 3 common soils identified for the eastern longleaf pine flatwoods in LDWF's Rare and Sensitive Wetland Plant Communities of Interior Louisiana. Lack of burning would have definitely eliminated much of the native understory.

It's possible that it wasn't a longleaf community, but most of the Northshore was just that historically. The lower, wetter areas would have been baygalls or swamps, but outside of the marshes and cypress swamps along the lakes and rivers, most of the terrestrial habitats were dominated by fire adapted species in various savanna or flatwoods habitats.

If you aren't in a giant hurry to get it planted, I would recommend a burn first. Give it a season and see what comes up. You might be surprised by what responds, and your wallet might be alot happier as well.

Posted by bluemoons
the marsh
Member since Oct 2012
5511 posts
Posted on 1/20/22 at 7:00 am to
I appreciate all of your help. I’ve got zero experience doing or setting up controlled burns and would be a bit uncomfortable doing it myself. Any idea where I could get some advice/help with getting it done?
Posted by cgrand
HAMMOND
Member since Oct 2009
38749 posts
Posted on 1/20/22 at 7:12 am to
you can probably rent a water trailer and pump. that should be all you need to keep it under control. it will be a very low fire that’s not going to immolate your property

you could also talk to the VFD nearest you if there is one, they will have a trailerable fire pump.
Posted by Cowboyfan89
Member since Sep 2015
12715 posts
Posted on 1/20/22 at 7:46 am to
quote:

Any idea where I could get some advice/help with getting it done?

Go through your local agcenter office or LDAF. LDAF will actually set up any firebreaks for you for a reasonable fee. The agcenter or LDWF can get you lined up with someone to burn it. Might be harder to find someone for such a small area, but I would highly recommend having a certified burn manager conduct the burn for liability purposes. If you do it without the proper training and certification, and the burn gets away from you and burns onto a neighbor's property, you can be held liable. If a certified burn manager burns with a burn plan, and the same thing happens, he/she has a certain level of liability protection.

You can always take the training in the future and become certified yourself, but having a professional do it the first time will save you alot of trouble and frustration.
Posted by bluemoons
the marsh
Member since Oct 2012
5511 posts
Posted on 1/20/22 at 9:01 am to
I honestly have zero interest in doing it myself, ha. I'd rather someone who knows the deal and has insurance get out there and handle it. Considering that it's a small job my hope is that it wouldn't break the bank. I will consult with the local AG extension office first and if I don't get any suggestions from them, I will call agriculture and forestry.
Posted by Cowboyfan89
Member since Sep 2015
12715 posts
Posted on 1/20/22 at 9:06 am to
If those fail, you can check with the local NRCS office as well. NRCS used to maintain a vendor/contractor list, but for various government reasons, many of those aren't as current as they used to be. However, some offices still have them.

However, the AgCenter or LDAF should have the information you need.
Posted by bluemoons
the marsh
Member since Oct 2012
5511 posts
Posted on 1/20/22 at 9:15 am to
You've been very helpful here and I really appreciate the knowledge. I've been in contact with Will Afton in Covington with LSU Ag. I've gotten his help with some things in the past and he was great to work with and very helpful. He was actually looking into a similar project already, so we are going to put our heads together and see what we can come up with.

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