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Started By
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Paging Ronk: what's the right process to sodding new lawn in DFW clay soil?
Posted on 3/19/24 at 6:52 am
Posted on 3/19/24 at 6:52 am
Figured I'd start a new thread since I have many questions. You've convinced me to try this myself. I'm getting Tif Tuf Bermuda btw.
Right now the yard is dying. I applied glyphosate last Monday 3/11. Everything is yellowing nicely.
1. When do I scalp the dead weeds and grass? Do I wait until it's completely dead? I'm assuming bag the clippings?
2. I'm debating renting a power rake. In many sections where it was dead St Aug, I can already see the soil. I think I may just try raking by hand. Do you recommend steel rake or one of those metal tiney ones? I have both.
3. Do I need to till? I'm seeing conflicting answers. Some say it just brings up weeds. I'm in North Dallas, so clay soil and its heavily compacted. Would any consumer grade $150 tiller(if I just buy one) even work in this clay?
4. Do I need to bring in topsoil for the entire yard(besides the low spots I'm going to fill)?
5. Once yard is prepped, just lay the sod down in a staggered joint pattern and water heavily correct?
I'm hoping I'm not biting off more than I can chew
Right now the yard is dying. I applied glyphosate last Monday 3/11. Everything is yellowing nicely.
1. When do I scalp the dead weeds and grass? Do I wait until it's completely dead? I'm assuming bag the clippings?
2. I'm debating renting a power rake. In many sections where it was dead St Aug, I can already see the soil. I think I may just try raking by hand. Do you recommend steel rake or one of those metal tiney ones? I have both.
3. Do I need to till? I'm seeing conflicting answers. Some say it just brings up weeds. I'm in North Dallas, so clay soil and its heavily compacted. Would any consumer grade $150 tiller(if I just buy one) even work in this clay?
4. Do I need to bring in topsoil for the entire yard(besides the low spots I'm going to fill)?
5. Once yard is prepped, just lay the sod down in a staggered joint pattern and water heavily correct?
I'm hoping I'm not biting off more than I can chew
2
Posted on 3/19/24 at 9:14 pm to Greenie10
If you’re going to go with such a high quality sod I would go ahead and it right. Get the power rake of sod cutter and clear ever out.
You honestly don’t need to till. If there was an 1/8th of an inch of dirt on your sidewalk your tif would root. You can drop the sod right after raking. Just water and it will grow.
You honestly don’t need to till. If there was an 1/8th of an inch of dirt on your sidewalk your tif would root. You can drop the sod right after raking. Just water and it will grow.
Posted on 3/19/24 at 9:33 pm to ronk
Thanks for the great replies. I really appreciate it.
Can I scalp the lawn this weekend or should I wait until everything is truly dead? It's mostly all yellow now, so it's dying.
Will the compaction of my soil be a problem? It's very compacted.
Thanks again!
Can I scalp the lawn this weekend or should I wait until everything is truly dead? It's mostly all yellow now, so it's dying.
Will the compaction of my soil be a problem? It's very compacted.
Thanks again!
Posted on 3/20/24 at 7:15 am to Greenie10
If you hit everything with glyphosate you can remove what is dead and then hit anything green again. The soil compaction generally wouldn't be an issue. You should aerate every year though. If you would feel more comfortable then you can till to break the soil up.
Posted on 3/20/24 at 7:49 am to Greenie10
Where did you order the tiftuf from?
Posted on 3/20/24 at 8:56 am to ronk
quote:Regarding liquid aeration, are you in Camp Snake Oil or is it beneficial?
You should aerate every year though.
Posted on 3/20/24 at 9:24 am to bayoubengals88
quote:
Regarding liquid aeration, are you in Camp Snake Oil or is it beneficial?
I'd like to know his thoughts as well...
Posted on 3/20/24 at 2:56 pm to bayoubengals88
I'm on team snake oil because they use the word aeration. It is not an aeration. It adds microbes to the soil which are beneficial. However, I'd rather use Anderson's Humichar, Biochar DG, or Humic DG. I trust a company when they call it was it is-a soil ammendment.
Posted on 3/20/24 at 3:01 pm to ronk
quote:
However, I'd rather use Anderson's Humichar, Biochar DG, or Humic DG. I trust a company when they call it was it is-a soil ammendment.
I was actually looking at Humichar yesterday evening
$100 for a 40lb bag.
Posted on 3/27/24 at 9:51 pm to ronk
quote:
If you’re going to go with such a high quality sod I would go ahead and it right. Get the power rake of sod cutter and clear ever out.
Having a hard time finding TifTuf bermuda in stock right now.
I've got the power rake reserved for this Saturday. How long can the yard go from power raking to actually laying sod?
Will a few weeks be OK? Should I hit with another round of glyphosate?
If I can't get Tiftuf, what other type of Bermuda is drought tolerant? Keep in mind, I really only want to cut once a week and I don't want to have to fertilize every month. Common? Miller Grass has Tex Turf 10 Bermuda, but I can't find any info on it.
I only have a regular Honda mower too... I've been researching and people are talking about verticutting, growth regulators, etc... all seems very confusing. I've had St Aug my whole life up until now. I just had to cut once a week and do pre and post emergent sometimes.
Is Bermuda a difficult grass?
Posted on 3/28/24 at 7:57 am to Greenie10
You can use glyphosate to keep it clear. Tif419 is a good grass. That is what I have. Do not get Tex turf 10. Miller should have Tif419. If they don't then Starr turf in Sunnyvale will have it. You can buy PGR if you don't want to cut. That is not they main reason to use it. Most people use it to promote lateral growth but it will reduce mowing.
Posted on 3/28/24 at 8:15 am to Greenie10
quote:
If I can't get Tiftuf, what other type of Bermuda is drought tolerant? Keep in mind, I really only want to cut once a week and I don't want to have to fertilize every month.
Can I ask why you’re committed to Bermuda if you don’t have the right mower, don’t want to cut repeatedly and don’t want to follow the fertilizer schedule?
There are other grasses like Zoysia that might be a better fit given what you’ve outlined.
Posted on 3/28/24 at 10:51 am to tide06
I'm in Dallas, which can go all summer without rain and 100+ temps. We have water restrictions and water is expensive here. Bill could easily be $200+ a month in summer.
I want drought tolerant and Bermuda was recommended. I'm open to other types of grass if they use less water and are easy to care for. Bermuda was suggested b/c it's hard to kill, doesn't use much water, and isn't susceptible to TARR etc
I want drought tolerant and Bermuda was recommended. I'm open to other types of grass if they use less water and are easy to care for. Bermuda was suggested b/c it's hard to kill, doesn't use much water, and isn't susceptible to TARR etc
Posted on 3/28/24 at 10:55 am to Greenie10
You can have a decent bermuda lawn without fertilizing monthly and without mowing more than once every seven days.
Try to mow at 2"
Who knows, you might even get obsessed and start enjoying mowing as low as possible every 3 days
(happened to me)
Try to mow at 2"
Who knows, you might even get obsessed and start enjoying mowing as low as possible every 3 days
(happened to me)
Posted on 3/28/24 at 11:06 am to Greenie10
quote:
I've been researching and people are talking about verticutting, growth regulators, etc.
Verticutting = de-thatching which really only needs to be done every 2 or 3 years. I would say 90% of people never de-thatch and their bermuda is fine. If you want to do it you can probably rent a vertical mower and do it yourself or hire a lawn company to do it. All bermuda is drought tolerant but it will go dormant and turn brown if you don't water in the summer. As soon as it gets some water, it greens back up. Tiff 419 is a good option. Bermuda is easier to maintain than St Aug IMO.
Posted on 3/31/24 at 8:06 pm to Greenie10
Got my lawn mostly down to dirt. There are still some dead runners/roots visible, but I am going to be spreading 2 yds of premium soil(a mix of sandy loam and compost), so hopefully that'll be good enough?
My wife does have me rethinking laying the sod by myself though. She says a roll can weigh 30-50lbs or maybe more. 3 pallets is a lot and I need to get it all down fast so I can water it. I'm old and worried this may be too much labor for me.
Is laying 1400sq ft of sod back breaking?
My wife does have me rethinking laying the sod by myself though. She says a roll can weigh 30-50lbs or maybe more. 3 pallets is a lot and I need to get it all down fast so I can water it. I'm old and worried this may be too much labor for me.
Is laying 1400sq ft of sod back breaking?
Posted on 3/31/24 at 8:14 pm to Greenie10
I’m a bit jealous. You’re going to have some nice looking turf.
If you don’t think you’re up for it physically, just hire it out.
That’s not a huge area, but you should know your body well enough to make a decision.
If you don’t think you’re up for it physically, just hire it out.
That’s not a huge area, but you should know your body well enough to make a decision.
Posted on 4/1/24 at 6:24 am to bayoubengals88
quote:
you don’t think you’re up for it physically, just hire it out.
That’s not a huge area, but you should know your body well enough to make a decision.
I've contacted some landscaping companies and they're quoting about $2100 for sod install. Even with most of the work done. That does include the 3 pallets of sod though. I'm having my cheap side fight with my aching muscles side lol
Posted on 4/1/24 at 7:07 am to Greenie10
That’s sounds too expensive.
It’s kind of a fun activity for kids if you have family around
If not, I’m sure a teenager would do it for $150 (maybe with your help)
It’s kind of a fun activity for kids if you have family around
If not, I’m sure a teenager would do it for $150 (maybe with your help)
Posted on 4/1/24 at 7:40 am to Greenie10
Increasingly hot and dry DFW summers haven’t been kind to St. Aug lawns and water bills. I’m openly rooting for the invading bermuda in our yard.
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