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Started By
Message
OT Plumbers regarding Pressure Reduction Valve to home
Posted on 2/21/25 at 11:43 am
Posted on 2/21/25 at 11:43 am
My home was built in 1996. Never had a plumbing problem until recently when the main line from the meter blew out under my sidewalk. After repair, the plumber tested the line and said that my water pressure was over 100psi, and needs to come down to under 80psi. He suggested the high pressure coming out of the meter contributed to the weakened wall, but then suggested the PRV be installed up by the house at the control valve, and add an expansion tank in the attic.
Is this necessary, or is this an upgrade sell that is preventative and not really necessary?
** - Sorry, wrong board. Asked Admin to move.
Is this necessary, or is this an upgrade sell that is preventative and not really necessary?
** - Sorry, wrong board. Asked Admin to move.
This post was edited on 2/21/25 at 11:45 am
8
Posted on 2/21/25 at 11:44 am to HubbaBubba
May want to try the Home Board
Posted on 2/21/25 at 11:45 am to Major Dutch Schaefer
quote:Yeah, I thought that's where I was, but it was a different tab on my computer.
May want to try the Home Board
Posted on 2/21/25 at 12:24 pm to HubbaBubba
quote:
My home was built in 1996. Never had a plumbing problem until recently when the main line from the meter blew out under my sidewalk. After repair, the plumber tested the line and said that my water pressure was over 100psi, and needs to come down to under 80psi. He suggested the high pressure coming out of the meter contributed to the weakened wall, but then suggested the PRV be installed up by the house at the control valve, and add an expansion tank in the attic.
Is this necessary, or is this an upgrade sell that is preventative and not really necessary?
Expansion tanks on the hot water heater are code in GA. There is a pressure valve, or should be, on the water line first thing as it enters your house right after the main cut off valve. This keeps the house lines/faucets, appliances from damage due potential excessive pressure from city water.
Posted on 2/21/25 at 12:24 pm to HubbaBubba
If city pressure above 85psi then yes you need a PRV
Most plumbing fixtures are rated for 85 psi
Standard city pressure in BR is about 60-65 psi.
Amazon - Watts Lead Free 3/4” PRV
One in link is set at 50 psi and u adjust the bolt to increase or decrease pressure
Edit:
PRV works just like a gas regulator. Higher pressure on incoming side reduced on the leaving side.
When I design a PRV station on a high rise building I want pressure between 35 psi on the upper floor and 80 psi on the lowest floor. You gain 4.34 psi for ever 10’ elevation of water above (inversely you lose 4.34 psi for every 10’ in elevation the water serves).
So if you have a raise house the pressure of a water line at the en
Most plumbing fixtures are rated for 85 psi
Standard city pressure in BR is about 60-65 psi.
Amazon - Watts Lead Free 3/4” PRV
One in link is set at 50 psi and u adjust the bolt to increase or decrease pressure
Edit:
PRV works just like a gas regulator. Higher pressure on incoming side reduced on the leaving side.
When I design a PRV station on a high rise building I want pressure between 35 psi on the upper floor and 80 psi on the lowest floor. You gain 4.34 psi for ever 10’ elevation of water above (inversely you lose 4.34 psi for every 10’ in elevation the water serves).
So if you have a raise house the pressure of a water line at the en
This post was edited on 2/21/25 at 12:48 pm
Posted on 2/21/25 at 12:29 pm to HubbaBubba
Yes, 100 psi is too high. 60 PSI is much more typical. An expansion tank is a good thing either way. Water expands when heated, so your water heater can end up adding to the pressure in your home (most places have check-valves to the city supply, so that pressure doesn't just back-feed). Water isn't compressible, so the pressure really can build up.
Posted on 2/21/25 at 12:34 pm to HubbaBubba
Yes get the PRV and expansion tank.
<------ 30+ years of either directly selling PRVs and/or family selling PRVs.
<------ 30+ years of either directly selling PRVs and/or family selling PRVs.
Posted on 2/21/25 at 12:35 pm to MidWestGuy
quote:If I get a screw on pressure indicator and measure inside, it should match what the plumber said, yes or no?
Yes, 100 psi is too high. 60 PSI is much more typical.
Also, what is the typical cost to add this? He quoted a little over $1800.
Posted on 2/21/25 at 12:37 pm to Meauxjeaux
quote:Can you tell me if the $1800+ is in line or an overcharge? This is the first dealings I've had with a plumber in over 30 years.
Yes get the PRV and expansion tank.
<------ 30+ years of either directly selling PRVs and/or family selling PRVs.
Posted on 2/21/25 at 12:37 pm to Meauxjeaux
True story: years ago was riding with a factory guy that worked for a PRV company. He installed one on his home (had about 90psi originally) and said after the install, he cranked it down 5PSI every week until his wife and daughter started to complain about low pressure. He had gotten down to 25PSI.
He cranked it up to 35, left it there and everyone was happy.
He cranked it up to 35, left it there and everyone was happy.
Posted on 2/21/25 at 12:39 pm to HubbaBubba
quote:
Can you tell me if the $1800+ is in line or an overcharge? This is the first dealings I've had with a plumber in over 30 years.
Woah!
That's way overcharged, IMO.
I'm arms length nowadays from plumbing contractors, so I don't know a current 'normal' price... but I'd say that's likely at least $1k too much.
ETA: I should have added, we sold for the factory, to the wholesalers. So some contractors can chime in here for better 'turnkey' street pricing.
This post was edited on 2/21/25 at 12:44 pm
Posted on 2/21/25 at 12:50 pm to Meauxjeaux
They also quoted me $1400+ to replace a 1" double check valve for my sprinkler system (my sprinkler contractor quoted $640), so seems to me they may be a bit high and maybe the plumber gets a commission from the owner for upsells.
Posted on 2/21/25 at 2:21 pm to HubbaBubba
I'm a crappy IT guy that got tired of pin hole leaks from my copper pipes in my house. I ripped90% of the copper out and installed PEX. The first 6 feet of line coming in the house got fresh copper and I installed a new pressure valve. Its staggering what plumbers charge for connecting pipes. When I replaced my hot water heater, I installed a new expansion tank as well. Those prices you listed are stupid high, but that's usually the going rate and why I refuse to pay a contractor off the street for most anything except AC service.
Posted on 2/21/25 at 4:37 pm to HubbaBubba
quote:
If I get a screw on pressure indicator and measure inside, it should match what the plumber said, yes or no?
Also, what is the typical cost to add this? He quoted a little over $1800.
Yea, the screw on gauges should work OK. You might see some quick (one second) spikes from water hammering as faucets close, but the resting pressure should tell you what you need to know.
Yea, $1800 seems high, unless it's really hard to get to. Someone linked one for ~ $200, double/triple that for their mark up/handling/holding costs, $100 to show up, $100 an hour (shouldn't take more than an hour, unless it's hard to get to). Even 2 hours, that's $300+$100+$200 = $600. Add $200 if he has a helper? Seems generous at $800? But I haven't hired a plumber in, forever, so I dunno.
Posted on 2/21/25 at 7:18 pm to MidWestGuy
Been a while since I have priced up service rates. But it was around $85/hr for a plumber and like $45/hr for a helper. But that was years ago.
Like $125/hr and $65/hr. With a 2 hr minimum.
Material is next to nothing. Couple of 3/4” copper male adapters and sand cloth, flux and solder, and feflon tape and pipe dope.
Maybe more if in a tight spot and he need to install a loop around to install the PRV.
Like $125/hr and $65/hr. With a 2 hr minimum.
Material is next to nothing. Couple of 3/4” copper male adapters and sand cloth, flux and solder, and feflon tape and pipe dope.
Maybe more if in a tight spot and he need to install a loop around to install the PRV.
Posted on 2/21/25 at 8:14 pm to HubbaBubba
If you can, leave a hose faucet thats before the regulator. Ideally with a full-port valve. A waterhose @ 100psi is good stuff.
Posted on 2/22/25 at 9:15 pm to Turnblad85
Great recommendation
Posted on 2/23/25 at 6:51 am to HubbaBubba
Posted on 2/23/25 at 7:18 am to HubbaBubba
Op that's high as shite.
As some one before said, labor should be around 200/hr with 2 or 3 hour minimum. Parts are less then 150.
If you have the interest, you can bu all the parts you need plus a manual crimp tool from HD for probably less than $300.
As some one before said, labor should be around 200/hr with 2 or 3 hour minimum. Parts are less then 150.
If you have the interest, you can bu all the parts you need plus a manual crimp tool from HD for probably less than $300.
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