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Started By
Message
OT electricians, I need your help regarding smart switch installation
Posted on 1/9/21 at 8:10 am
Posted on 1/9/21 at 8:10 am
I’m going to try and make this as concise as possible.
I’m replacing a regular single pole switch to a smart switch. The original switch has line load and ground. Line to load, I’m getting 118 bolts.
New switch needs a neutral, which isn’t pulled into my switch box. I tied a jumper from load to this neutral. Now I’m getting 103 volts from line to load. This isn’t enough voltage to keep the relay open, and it’s strobing. What can I do?
I’m replacing a regular single pole switch to a smart switch. The original switch has line load and ground. Line to load, I’m getting 118 bolts.
New switch needs a neutral, which isn’t pulled into my switch box. I tied a jumper from load to this neutral. Now I’m getting 103 volts from line to load. This isn’t enough voltage to keep the relay open, and it’s strobing. What can I do?
12
Posted on 1/9/21 at 8:14 am to nugget
Just wait til your boyfriend wakes up. I know you’re trying to do something nice, which is great, but just wait.
Posted on 1/9/21 at 8:17 am to nugget
Get an electrician....for real.
Posted on 1/9/21 at 8:20 am to CajunPolo
I’ll send these back and get one that just needs line, load, and ground before I call an electrician.
Posted on 1/9/21 at 8:21 am to nugget
Get a relay extender
Posted on 1/9/21 at 8:22 am to nugget
quote:
New switch needs a neutral, which isn’t pulled into my switch box.
Get one that doesn't require a neutral wire.
Posted on 1/9/21 at 8:22 am to nugget
Yeah real answer baw, either get a neutral into that box which I assume is what you’re asking. Or you got the easy option, get a different smart switch which doesn’t require one.
This post was edited on 1/9/21 at 8:24 am
Posted on 1/9/21 at 8:24 am to tigahfromtheham
That’s probably what I’m going to do. Just for my curiosity, why would a jumper from load to neutral cause a 12-15 volt drop?
Posted on 1/9/21 at 9:44 am to The Mick
quote:
Get a relay extender
I’m an electrical engineer and I don’t know what that is.
Posted on 1/9/21 at 9:51 am to nugget
I’m not confidant that your original switch had line, load and neutral. There are different ways of wiring a light. A common way is to bring the power - line, neutral and ground - to the light. Then run one romex with white, black and ground down to the switch. Usually the black is tied to the line at the light via wire nut. You wire the black to one side of the switch and the white to the other. The other end of the white is bringing power to the light.
If this is the way you are wired then you should go to the light fixture and disconnect the white from the fixture, and tie the white into the other whites at the fixture. This will give you power, neutral and ground at your switch.
If this is the way you are wired then you should go to the light fixture and disconnect the white from the fixture, and tie the white into the other whites at the fixture. This will give you power, neutral and ground at your switch.
This post was edited on 1/9/21 at 10:46 am
Posted on 1/9/21 at 11:55 am to nugget
If its only 103v then the new smart switch is probably just a little low on dimming fluid. Much more common these days since production of these switches has ballooned in the past few years. Ive read that the fluid is expensive so the factories try to stretch it out on some runs.
Just go to HD or lowes and ASK the electric associate for it, they do have it in stock, but keep it in the back due to it being a high theft item. The first one may not know so just ask to speak to someone else if needed, sometimes the managers lock it in office...fyi.
Ohh and buy extra, assuming you will be replacing more switches in future.
Just go to HD or lowes and ASK the electric associate for it, they do have it in stock, but keep it in the back due to it being a high theft item. The first one may not know so just ask to speak to someone else if needed, sometimes the managers lock it in office...fyi.
Ohh and buy extra, assuming you will be replacing more switches in future.
This post was edited on 1/9/21 at 11:56 am
Posted on 1/9/21 at 11:56 am to nugget
quote:
and it’s strobing
Install a stripper pole
Posted on 1/9/21 at 11:57 am to nugget
Install a flux capacitor
Posted on 1/9/21 at 11:58 am to nugget
this won't end well.
Posted on 1/9/21 at 12:27 pm to nugget
Older home OP? Fwiw You may not find a smart witch without a neutral but I honestly don’t know.
Good point above see if your light or whatever is tied to the switch has a neutral.
Good point above see if your light or whatever is tied to the switch has a neutral.
Posted on 1/9/21 at 4:58 pm to nugget
I’m assuming all smart switches are going to need a neutral reference to power the electronics.
It sounds like the way you have it wired with the jumper, the switch electronics are in series with the load/light so it’s causing your voltage issues.
It sounds like the way you have it wired with the jumper, the switch electronics are in series with the load/light so it’s causing your voltage issues.
Posted on 1/10/21 at 1:22 am to STBTigerr
quote:
the switch electronics are in series with the load/light so it’s causing your voltage issues.
I didn't fully understand the OP's wiring arrangement, but that's the impression that I was getting.
I wouldn't necessarily recommend it, but many lazy electricians have just used the equipment grounding conductor in lieu of the neutral in this situation. It happened often enough that, roundabouts 2011, the National Electrical Code made it a requirement to run a neutral to all light switches.
Posted on 1/10/21 at 11:02 pm to nugget
Go with Lutron smart switches - they don’t require the neutral. Leviton and others usually do require the neutral.
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