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Message
New Palisades Zoysia Maintenace
Posted on 1/24/23 at 3:31 pm
Posted on 1/24/23 at 3:31 pm
Hi all. I sodded 22k sqft of Palisades Zoysia in October. The seams haven't really filled in yet. I'd like to get on top of the maintenance plan for the spring and fall. I am used to centipede, so this is new to me.
I planned to put out about 90lbs of granular dimension in early February, then Celsius as post emergent throughout the year. I also have some Torque fungicide to spot treat, as I can already tell parts of my yard are going to stay pretty wet.
Let me know if I'm wrong on any of the above. What, when, and how often should I fertilize? I'd like to give the grass whatever it needs to get established well this first growing season to hopefully minimize maintenance in the future.
I planned to put out about 90lbs of granular dimension in early February, then Celsius as post emergent throughout the year. I also have some Torque fungicide to spot treat, as I can already tell parts of my yard are going to stay pretty wet.
Let me know if I'm wrong on any of the above. What, when, and how often should I fertilize? I'd like to give the grass whatever it needs to get established well this first growing season to hopefully minimize maintenance in the future.
Posted on 1/24/23 at 4:08 pm to atom1505
Following for any tips as well. I sodded mine around Easter last year and it took off like crazy. What I learned is it grows relentlessly, is super soft under foot, and creates copious amounts of hay. I ended up buying a side bagger for my Gravely mower to try to manage all the clippings.
Posted on 1/24/23 at 4:33 pm to atom1505
I’d skip the pre em in the spring. Let that root system get as good and deep as possible. You have the Celsius so that will handle almost anything that will pop up. After the yard is almost greened up on its own do a 15% or do nitrogen fert at 4lbs per thousand. After that Milorganite should do the trick for the rest of the growing season. Treat weeds and fungus as needed. Pre em in the fall.
Posted on 1/24/23 at 5:36 pm to atom1505
I kept chemicals off the first year. Go get one of those weed poppers. Have a beer and hand pull.
This is the guide I followed for a few years.
LINK
Now I have tailored it to my liking. Bring in your soil for an analysis. Greenpoint did mine and that’s when I made adjustments. Invest in a reel mower if you want to make your neighbors jealous
This is the guide I followed for a few years.
LINK
Now I have tailored it to my liking. Bring in your soil for an analysis. Greenpoint did mine and that’s when I made adjustments. Invest in a reel mower if you want to make your neighbors jealous
Posted on 1/24/23 at 7:07 pm to atom1505
Don't skip cutting it. Cut mines 2x per week. I have since moved and have something different. It gets thick.
Posted on 1/24/23 at 7:32 pm to LEASTBAY
I did the same. Following for advice. I’m not really interested in showing the grass off. More interested in helping it get established to the point that it is relatively low maintenance.
Posted on 1/25/23 at 9:09 am to ronk
quote:
After the yard is almost greened up on its own do a 15% or do nitrogen fert at 4lbs per thousand. After that Milorganite should do the trick for the rest of the growing season.
Thanks for the tips Ronk. When you say do a 15% or nitrogen at 4 pounds per thousand sqft, do you have a specific NPK mix you'd recommend? We have a Site One over here and since I've got half an acre of the grass, I'll probably try to buy from there to keep it cost effective. Do you think either of these would be a good option?
LINK
LINK
My math suggests about 3.5 bags of the second and maybe 4 bags of the first option. I think it may be cost prohibitive to get enough milorganite for half an acre.
This post was edited on 1/25/23 at 9:18 am
Posted on 1/25/23 at 9:24 am to atom1505
The first choice looks good. A 50lb bag will cover 12,500 square feet at 4lbs per thousand. The second one is interesting but it says it's not available in your area.
NVM-they may be available in your area. My internet is putting me in North Carolina.
NVM-they may be available in your area. My internet is putting me in North Carolina.
This post was edited on 1/25/23 at 9:26 am
Posted on 1/25/23 at 10:22 am to ronk
Looks like both are available near me. Any reason I should pick one over the other?
Also, can you help me understand the calculation methodology? I'm looking at some online calculators but the numbers are kind of all over the place. In considering 4 pounds of nitrogen per 1000 square foot (per growing season), I'm considering 2 separate applications. So that would be 2 pounds per 1000sqft on each application.
Also, can you help me understand the calculation methodology? I'm looking at some online calculators but the numbers are kind of all over the place. In considering 4 pounds of nitrogen per 1000 square foot (per growing season), I'm considering 2 separate applications. So that would be 2 pounds per 1000sqft on each application.
This post was edited on 1/25/23 at 10:33 am
Posted on 1/25/23 at 3:23 pm to atom1505
You would do 4 lbs during one application. 15% N at 4lbs would deliver .6lbs of nitrogen per application. I don't like over ferting Zoysia. I find that zoysia will take a couple years to get fully established. Not as in it won't stay green after you sod it but more like it doesn't look great breaking out of dormancy after the first winter. Let the root system establish slowly before adding 1lb of fert a couple times a year.
Posted on 1/26/23 at 8:43 am to ronk
I'm a little confused by this:
So it would be 4 pounds of fertilizer per 1000 square feet per application, or 4 pounds of nitrogen per 1000 square feet per application?
quote:
do a 15% or do nitrogen fert at 4lbs per thousand.
So it would be 4 pounds of fertilizer per 1000 square feet per application, or 4 pounds of nitrogen per 1000 square feet per application?
Posted on 1/26/23 at 9:16 am to bluemoons
4lbs of fertilizer. That gives you .6lbs of Nitrogen per thousand. 15% of N X 4= .6
Posted on 1/26/23 at 9:44 am to ronk
Got it. Thanks Ronk. Very helpful.
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