- My Forums
- Tiger Rant
- LSU Recruiting
- SEC Rant
- Saints Talk
- Pelicans Talk
- More Sports Board
- Fantasy Sports
- Golf Board
- Soccer Board
- O-T Lounge
- Tech Board
- Home/Garden Board
- Outdoor Board
- Health/Fitness Board
- Movie/TV Board
- Book Board
- Music Board
- Political Talk
- Money Talk
- Fark Board
- Gaming Board
- Travel Board
- Food/Drink Board
- Ticket Exchange
- TD Help Board
Customize My Forums- View All Forums
- Show Left Links
- Topic Sort Options
- Trending Topics
- Recent Topics
- Active Topics
Started By
Message
re: Louisiana Tropical Fruit Gardening - Experiences and Updates
Posted on 11/2/25 at 7:29 pm to TimeOutdoors
Posted on 11/2/25 at 7:29 pm to TimeOutdoors
Yep, now is the time to test run your system with these baby cold fronts. I've got a sensor outside and one inside the greenhouse so I can see my differential and figure out how well my system functions. When 27F is on the menu in January, you'll know with confidence that your setup will give you __ degrees of buffer room. Last winter in the snow storm our low was 18F and my plastic Amazon greenhouse maintained 48F at the coldest point. This would make my greenhouse zone 11b, which is only found in the Florida keys and Hawaii. If you can get 20-30F of cushion you can grow pretty much any subtropical.
The Euro is predicting my first sub 40F temps on 11/11/25. That is my cue to set up the greenhouse if my local forecast agrees and holds firm.

The Euro is predicting my first sub 40F temps on 11/11/25. That is my cue to set up the greenhouse if my local forecast agrees and holds firm.

This post was edited on 11/3/25 at 7:30 am
Posted on 11/3/25 at 11:38 am to Tigerlaff
What’s in the background
Purple leaves ?
Spice Zee nectaplum??
Purple leaves ?
Spice Zee nectaplum??
Posted on 11/3/25 at 12:16 pm to DickTater
quote:
What’s in the background
Purple leaves ?
Spice Zee nectaplum??
Good eye. It's a spice zee. I generally avoid stone fruit like the plague due to pest and fungal issues here, but my buddy sold me on this one due to fruit quality. I spray weekly and that's the only way I can keep it clean. Also, it does really, really well on a raised mound of very sandy soil. I don't know how I'm going to spray for fungus and thrips when it gets big unless I upgrade equipment. Will try to keep about 10 feet tall if I can.
Posted on 11/3/25 at 1:41 pm to Tigerlaff
quote:
Will try to keep about 10 feet tall if I can
That was my plan with one of my peach trees. It's now about 15 ft tall and about the same across
Posted on 11/3/25 at 5:41 pm to Loup
New Fruitful Trees video dropped today. Paul is visiting D's Fruit Trees to take a look at tropical fruit trees grown in large pots and how he does it. D's has the most impressive selection of large container trees I've ever seen and it really changed my perspective about what is possible in a pot.
Fruitful Trees
Fruitful Trees
This post was edited on 11/3/25 at 6:55 pm
Posted on 11/4/25 at 8:24 am to Tigerlaff
OK all the 10 day forecasts are now predicting temps in the mid 30s on the Northshore for next Tuesday morning 11/11. Unless you are on the south shore or down da bayou, this is your 7-day warning to prepare all tropicals and subtropicals for frost and freeze protection.
Frost protection is different from freeze protection. Frost occurs when the air in one area cools much faster than the air around it. A tiny area reaches 32F or lower and the ice that develops injures sensitive plants. Frost can occur at 37F with the right conditions (clear skies, calm or no wind, high humidity). The easiest way to avoid frost is to move everything under a covered area like a patio, garage, or under a tarp. I am doing frost protection anytime I see temps below 40F because my yard can easily be 3-4 degrees lower (or higher) than the forecast based on my direct measurements. My forecast for last night was 44F. We hit 41F.
Freeze protection is when air temperature hits 32F or lower. At that point you are best off just protecting and even heating everything sensitive. I don't take risks here. I've got years of work into some of these potted trees. I'm not rolling the dice because the forecast said 36F but a pocket of colder 29F air settled on my backyard. It happens all the time. You aren't going to find a mango tree at your local nursery to replace one you lose.
"Winter" is unfortunately here early in south Louisiana. November 2024 had temps in the 90s. Take this week to get your plan together and take the weekend to set it up and test it.
Frost protection is different from freeze protection. Frost occurs when the air in one area cools much faster than the air around it. A tiny area reaches 32F or lower and the ice that develops injures sensitive plants. Frost can occur at 37F with the right conditions (clear skies, calm or no wind, high humidity). The easiest way to avoid frost is to move everything under a covered area like a patio, garage, or under a tarp. I am doing frost protection anytime I see temps below 40F because my yard can easily be 3-4 degrees lower (or higher) than the forecast based on my direct measurements. My forecast for last night was 44F. We hit 41F.
Freeze protection is when air temperature hits 32F or lower. At that point you are best off just protecting and even heating everything sensitive. I don't take risks here. I've got years of work into some of these potted trees. I'm not rolling the dice because the forecast said 36F but a pocket of colder 29F air settled on my backyard. It happens all the time. You aren't going to find a mango tree at your local nursery to replace one you lose.
"Winter" is unfortunately here early in south Louisiana. November 2024 had temps in the 90s. Take this week to get your plan together and take the weekend to set it up and test it.
This post was edited on 11/4/25 at 8:26 am
Posted on 11/5/25 at 7:58 am to Tigerlaff
Good news. Have you gotten any fruit from it yet?
I have one planted as well. Was bare root a year ago, I let it get some decent scaffolds this year. Always hard pruning young trees but hope it sets me up for success. I have about 10 fruit (stone, apple, pear, citrus ) in a single area plan is to keep them all smallish, backyard orchard culture style.
I have one planted as well. Was bare root a year ago, I let it get some decent scaffolds this year. Always hard pruning young trees but hope it sets me up for success. I have about 10 fruit (stone, apple, pear, citrus ) in a single area plan is to keep them all smallish, backyard orchard culture style.
Posted on 11/5/25 at 7:18 pm to DickTater
Nope, no nectaplums yet. Planted it in July. Growing fast though so it may be able to hold a couple next year.
Posted on 11/6/25 at 7:21 pm to Tigerlaff
Bought theses lights for our 2 lemon trees. Is this what you'd recommend?
incandescent lights
Planning on also building small greenhouses out of PVC and visqueen.
incandescent lights
Planning on also building small greenhouses out of PVC and visqueen.
Posted on 11/6/25 at 7:28 pm to mchias1
quote:
Bought theses lights for our 2 lemon trees. Is this what you'd recommend?
No. Those are C7 bulbs. They are smaller than C9, put out less heat, and they fail like 10X as often. I threw all mine away. Was going through a entire box of 50 replacement bulbs per month. C9 is what you want.
quote:
Planning on also building small greenhouses out of PVC and visqueen.
It works, provided there is a heat source. What are you protecting?
This post was edited on 11/6/25 at 7:30 pm
Posted on 11/6/25 at 8:35 pm to Tigerlaff
Thanks. Cancelled the order and got C9s.
Protecting a meyer and a ponderosa. Both are about 3-4 ft tall trees in heavy clay pots that I can't move.
The plan is to use the lights and the greenhouses to protect the trees from the cold and wind.
Protecting a meyer and a ponderosa. Both are about 3-4 ft tall trees in heavy clay pots that I can't move.
The plan is to use the lights and the greenhouses to protect the trees from the cold and wind.
This post was edited on 11/6/25 at 8:41 pm
Posted on 11/6/25 at 10:11 pm to mchias1
Had the first Suriname cherries ripen this week. These things are a wild tasting experience. When fully ripe, it is sweet, tart, and has a slight piney resinous aftertaste. I like them. Very interesting snack fruit. This is a special grafted selection. The seed grown wild types are bright red when ripe and taste like diesel. I have another grafted selection called Zill Dark, but I haven't tasted them yet.
Posted on 11/8/25 at 3:34 pm to Tigerlaff
Posted on 11/8/25 at 5:28 pm to Neauxla
Looks like either fertilizer burn or drought stress. It's a bit chlorotic too.
How have you been fertilizing and watering?
It's definitely not anthracnose.
How have you been fertilizing and watering?
It's definitely not anthracnose.
This post was edited on 11/8/25 at 5:53 pm
Posted on 11/9/25 at 7:51 am to Tigerlaff
Haven’t fertilized since this summer. Watering yes.
Posted on 11/9/25 at 8:09 am to Neauxla
It can be very hard to figure out what is causing plant symptoms. My strategy is "fix everything" and you usually end up hitting whatever the issue was. I would do the following if this were my tree:
1) give it some osmocote plus time release granular fertilizer. This is the easiest fertilizer on earth and trees thrive with it. Follow label instructions and you will feed it slowly and completely for months. No overdose risk.
2) give it a single deep watering of distilled water. This flushes out anything bad that might be in your tap water. Also flushes out fertilizer salts, which can build up. After this watering give it a good while before watering again. Let the soil get to a point where it's barely even moist and not wet. Mangos are not thirsty trees.
3) give it a foliar feed with a good foliar spray that includes chelated iron. Those leaves should be dark green, not yellowing. A foliar feed can often fix this.
4) test your soil pH. Mangos do best in a mildly acidic soil that includes peat. My tap water is pH 9, which is incredibly basic. I have to account for that with my soil mix and amendments.
5) double and triple check your soil permeability and composition. The number one most important thing you can possibly do for these trees is to have a mix that drains fast. That usually fixes all other problems in my experience. But if you already have a good sandy mix and the water goes right through it, then this probably isn't it.
1) give it some osmocote plus time release granular fertilizer. This is the easiest fertilizer on earth and trees thrive with it. Follow label instructions and you will feed it slowly and completely for months. No overdose risk.
2) give it a single deep watering of distilled water. This flushes out anything bad that might be in your tap water. Also flushes out fertilizer salts, which can build up. After this watering give it a good while before watering again. Let the soil get to a point where it's barely even moist and not wet. Mangos are not thirsty trees.
3) give it a foliar feed with a good foliar spray that includes chelated iron. Those leaves should be dark green, not yellowing. A foliar feed can often fix this.
4) test your soil pH. Mangos do best in a mildly acidic soil that includes peat. My tap water is pH 9, which is incredibly basic. I have to account for that with my soil mix and amendments.
5) double and triple check your soil permeability and composition. The number one most important thing you can possibly do for these trees is to have a mix that drains fast. That usually fixes all other problems in my experience. But if you already have a good sandy mix and the water goes right through it, then this probably isn't it.
This post was edited on 11/9/25 at 8:11 am
Posted on 11/9/25 at 7:38 pm to Tigerlaff
Ate the first papaya off my tree today. No musky flavor like I was worried. Very sweet with an almost perfume like aftertaste. Kind of reminds me of a honeydew melon
Posted on 11/9/25 at 8:48 pm to Loup
quote:
Ate the first papaya off my tree today. No musky flavor like I was worried. Very sweet with an almost perfume like aftertaste. Kind of reminds me of a honeydew melon
Nice! Do you know the variety? I hate papaya because of the muskiness and people keep swearing to me that I need to try one of the sweet Hawaiian types.
This post was edited on 11/9/25 at 8:49 pm
Posted on 11/9/25 at 9:37 pm to Tigerlaff
quote:
Nice! Do you know the variety? I hate papaya because of the muskiness and people keep swearing to me that I need to try one of the sweet Hawaiian types
No idea, I bought it from Home Depot. Nothing id describe as muskiness from them.
Popular
Back to top


0



[/url] 
