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re: Louisiana Tropical Fruit Gardening - Experiences and Updates
Posted on 11/1/26 at 5:32 am to Tigerlaff
Posted on 11/1/26 at 5:32 am to Tigerlaff
OK, time to start finalizing your plans. Saturday is the Bama game so that day is shot. If I see more than 3-4 nights in the 40s I'm calling it and setting up the greenhouses. Mid 40s means it's time to put away your true tropicals like soursop, mamey, lipstick palm, miracle fruit, etc. Probably sugar apple too.
This post was edited on 11/1/26 at 5:36 am
Posted on 11/1/26 at 5:13 pm to Tigerlaff
OK TL, I hate to be a pest bro but I need help mixing this stuff. I got this today and read through the instructions and it talks about treating 300 containers with 1.74ounces of material. I need to soak two or three pots worth.
I have 3 pots that I want to drench. Two Mangave plants that are in 5 gal pots and one desert rose that is also in 4-5 gallon pot. Any thoughts one mixing it per gallon of water? I was thinking a couple tsp per gallon. But that is a serious guess
quote:
Application Rates by Use Type
1. Turfgrass (Broadcast / Grubs)
• Rate: 0.46 to 0.6 fluid ounces per 1,000 square feet.
• Water volume: Use at least 2 gallons of water per 1,000 square feet.
• Instructions: Water in lightly within 24 hours after application to move the product into the root zone.
2. Ornamental Foliar Sprays (Shrubs, Trees, Flowers)
• Rate: 1.7 fluid ounces per 100 gallons of water (or approximately 0.017 fl oz / ~1/3 teaspoon per gallon).
• Instructions: Spray to wet the foliage thoroughly. Add a spreader/sticker if treating hard-to-wet leaves (like holly or pine).
3. Trees (Soil Injection & Soil Drench)
• Rate: 0.1 to 0.4 fluid ounces (3 to 12 mL) per inch of trunk diameter at breast height (DBH).
• Instructions: Apply uniformly around the base of the tree using at least 10 gallons of water per 1,000 square feet.
4. Shrubs (Soil Injection & Soil Drench)
• Rate: 0.1 to 0.2 fluid ounces (3 to 6 mL) per foot of shrub height.
• Instructions: Apply uniformly around the base of the shrub.
I have 3 pots that I want to drench. Two Mangave plants that are in 5 gal pots and one desert rose that is also in 4-5 gallon pot. Any thoughts one mixing it per gallon of water? I was thinking a couple tsp per gallon. But that is a serious guess
Posted on 11/1/26 at 8:47 pm to LanierSpots
Yes just do a tsp or 2 per gallon. It's doesn't matter if you're over. You're not going to hurt the plant or any mammals with an overdose. I have done some crazy overdoses to kill mealybugs long term with no ill effects.
But if any of your stuff is flowering try to keep it protected because this stuff will absolutely annihilate bees.
But if any of your stuff is flowering try to keep it protected because this stuff will absolutely annihilate bees.
Posted on 11/2/26 at 5:48 am to Tigerlaff
I dont have any pets and all my stuff is inside my pool cage so no bees. Its pouring this morning then stopping. I am going to drench them this afternoon
Thanks again. Hope this works. I could not believe how many were on my mangave. The desert rose just gets a few every once in a while but that mangave is completely covered down in the middle and are hard to get to.
Thanks again. Hope this works. I could not believe how many were on my mangave. The desert rose just gets a few every once in a while but that mangave is completely covered down in the middle and are hard to get to.
Posted on 11/2/26 at 6:42 am to LanierSpots
I don't care what anyone anywhere tells you: a systemic soil drench is the only way to end a visible mealybug infestation. Everything else is just futile management. There are people out there soaking q-tips in rubbing alcohol 4 times per day and dabbing each adult crawler as they appear. It's crazy.
Posted on 11/2/26 at 8:35 am to Tigerlaff
You would avoid using on anything with fruit you plan to eat/holding fruit correct ?
Like guava or starfruit etc.
Like guava or starfruit etc.
Posted on 11/2/26 at 10:28 am to DickTater
Nope. I use it on anything that is infested. I have only used high doses on things that I am not going to be eating for 6 months or so.
"Imidacloprid is a neonicotinoid pesticide in the chloronicotinyl nitroguanidine chemical family that is not lethal to humans even at very high dosages."
LINK
In the case above a 14 year old intentionally drank almost 2 ounces of imidacloprid and survived. But yes, if you car bomb a shot of imidacloprid into your Guinness you are going to have some problems.
If you buy food at the grocery store, it is because they used pesticides to make the harvest possible. In my opinion you can either take the risk of ingesting very minor amounts of pesticide or you can just lose the war to insects and have reduced harvest/quality. There is a whole school of gardening philosophy that uses zero pesticides and their stuff looks like shite.
"Imidacloprid is a neonicotinoid pesticide in the chloronicotinyl nitroguanidine chemical family that is not lethal to humans even at very high dosages."
LINK
In the case above a 14 year old intentionally drank almost 2 ounces of imidacloprid and survived. But yes, if you car bomb a shot of imidacloprid into your Guinness you are going to have some problems.
If you buy food at the grocery store, it is because they used pesticides to make the harvest possible. In my opinion you can either take the risk of ingesting very minor amounts of pesticide or you can just lose the war to insects and have reduced harvest/quality. There is a whole school of gardening philosophy that uses zero pesticides and their stuff looks like shite.
Posted on 11/2/26 at 10:45 am to Tigerlaff
let’s do keep in mind that major infestations of damaging insects on non-native plants is to be expected. Growing plants outside of their native range introduces them to pests that they have not evolved to resist.
I don’t use any pesticides just on principle as that is the cost of doing business with non native species (but clearly the responsible use of them can be justified). To me, any non toxic solution is worth trying first but that is up to the grower and his/her tolerance for inevitable loss.
what bothers me is non-responsible use. I do wish that concentrates were not available for retail sale. One look at the collateral damage (bees, other pollinators, fireflies, moths, butterflies, etc) and the native biological controls like predatory insects and small animals shows that we as gardeners can do better with less toxic methods in an uncontrolled environment. And that’s the key, control the environment as best you can to avoid that damage (that’s what this thread is all about anyway)
I don’t use any pesticides just on principle as that is the cost of doing business with non native species (but clearly the responsible use of them can be justified). To me, any non toxic solution is worth trying first but that is up to the grower and his/her tolerance for inevitable loss.
what bothers me is non-responsible use. I do wish that concentrates were not available for retail sale. One look at the collateral damage (bees, other pollinators, fireflies, moths, butterflies, etc) and the native biological controls like predatory insects and small animals shows that we as gardeners can do better with less toxic methods in an uncontrolled environment. And that’s the key, control the environment as best you can to avoid that damage (that’s what this thread is all about anyway)
Posted on 11/2/26 at 11:11 am to Tigerlaff
While not tropical, I figured this thread would have people who know so...
I planted a bare root grafted persimmon this Spring. It jumped to life with leaves on all branches. Once it did that, it did not change. I was told this is normal as the tree was working on roots.
Some time in mid to late Summer, caterpillars ate every single leaf. It did nothing in reaction. Will this tree survive?
I planted a bare root grafted persimmon this Spring. It jumped to life with leaves on all branches. Once it did that, it did not change. I was told this is normal as the tree was working on roots.
Some time in mid to late Summer, caterpillars ate every single leaf. It did nothing in reaction. Will this tree survive?
Posted on 11/2/26 at 12:00 pm to AlxTgr
quote:
While not tropical, I figured this thread would have people who know so...
I planted a bare root grafted persimmon this Spring. It jumped to life with leaves on all branches. Once it did that, it did not change. I was told this is normal as the tree was working on roots.
Some time in mid to late Summer, caterpillars ate every single leaf. It did nothing in reaction. Will this tree survive?
Very likely. Have you scratched the bark to see if it is still green underneath?
Posted on 11/2/26 at 1:03 pm to Tigerlaff
quote:That always makes me think of Ron White
Have you scratched the bark to see if it is still green underneath?
I haven't ...I was trying to keep my damage to it at a minimum.
Posted on 11/2/26 at 1:54 pm to AlxTgr
“let me tell you what I’m looking for in a tree”
Posted on 11/2/26 at 2:02 pm to cgrand
My 1styear persimmon tree was stripped of leaves. It has not grown new ones. Will it live?
Ironically, the absolute best way to see if your persimmon tree will live is to do exactly what Ron White was making fun of: perform the "scratch test."
Use your thumbnail or a small knife to gently scratch a tiny piece of the outer bark on the main trunk or a primary branch.
• If it is bright green and moist underneath: The tree is still alive and has entered its natural winter dormancy period.
• If it is brown, dry, and brittle underneath: The branch or the tree itself has unfortunately died.
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