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Started By
Message
Liquid Aeration Plus Seeeding Cenitpede
Posted on 4/11/20 at 12:37 pm
Posted on 4/11/20 at 12:37 pm
Currently we have centipede, its not thick, we have a lot of dead grass in between. wife did a liquid aeration - simple lawn solutions.
Have 2 questions:
1. Is liquid aeration effective (product link Simple Lawn?
2. We have decided to seed the lawn with centipede. How soon can we seed after using liquid aeration? Can we go with bermuda?
Yard Photos
Imgr
Have 2 questions:
1. Is liquid aeration effective (product link Simple Lawn?
2. We have decided to seed the lawn with centipede. How soon can we seed after using liquid aeration? Can we go with bermuda?
Yard Photos
Imgr
This post was edited on 4/11/20 at 12:40 pm
2
Posted on 4/11/20 at 1:30 pm to thermal9221
You need to do a core aeration. Nothing can beat that.
Honestly it’s going to cheaper short term to fix your centipede. Have it aerated and put your seed out. Then do a thin layer of mason sand/soil combo (to save some money you could just do it in the worst areas) and then water the hell out of.
I see some yellowing (not the brown areas) so it could a fungus or just chlorotic. I would treat that. Azoxystrobin if it’s fungus and milorganite if it’s chlorotic.
You could do bermuda and it would do much better than your centipede because it’s full sun. I don’t like seeded bermuda unless it’s an improved bermuda like blackjack, Sahara, or princess 77. Those are expensive. If you want an instant fantastic yard sod with tif 419.
Honestly it’s going to cheaper short term to fix your centipede. Have it aerated and put your seed out. Then do a thin layer of mason sand/soil combo (to save some money you could just do it in the worst areas) and then water the hell out of.
I see some yellowing (not the brown areas) so it could a fungus or just chlorotic. I would treat that. Azoxystrobin if it’s fungus and milorganite if it’s chlorotic.
You could do bermuda and it would do much better than your centipede because it’s full sun. I don’t like seeded bermuda unless it’s an improved bermuda like blackjack, Sahara, or princess 77. Those are expensive. If you want an instant fantastic yard sod with tif 419.
Posted on 4/11/20 at 3:18 pm to thermal9221
The only other thing I’d add in addition to ronk s suggestions, is to have a soil test analysis on the lawn done by the LSU AgCenter’s STPAL lab when it re-opens for business following CV-19. If you are in BR, most soils have a higher pH than is idea for centipede. Should it require elemental sulfur to lower the pH the analysis will show this and provide a recommendation on how much to add.
And liquid aeration products are not effective, at least on our soils. If they were, university extension programs would recommend them as an alternative option to core aeration - and they don’t.
And liquid aeration products are not effective, at least on our soils. If they were, university extension programs would recommend them as an alternative option to core aeration - and they don’t.
This post was edited on 4/11/20 at 4:17 pm
Posted on 4/11/20 at 3:36 pm to CrawDude
Is it ok to seed Bermuda right now?
Should I detach prior to seeding?
Should I detach prior to seeding?
Posted on 4/11/20 at 4:38 pm to thermal9221
Why do you want to seed with Bermudagrass in a centipede lawn? Are you wanting to replace the centipede with Bermudagrass, or are you just wanting fill in the dead areas next to the patio and other “dead” spots “quickly” with grass of some type?
Do those dead grass areas near the patio have a tendency to hold water and remain soggy?
Have you fertilized the lawn yet? Did you treat the lawn earlier with herbicide(s) to kill weeds that were present in the lawn?
Centipede greens up later than than St Augustine, and it grows more slowly so it tends to lag behind St Augustine for at least a while.
Just trying to get a handle on what your immediate, and long-term goal is.
Do those dead grass areas near the patio have a tendency to hold water and remain soggy?
Have you fertilized the lawn yet? Did you treat the lawn earlier with herbicide(s) to kill weeds that were present in the lawn?
Centipede greens up later than than St Augustine, and it grows more slowly so it tends to lag behind St Augustine for at least a while.
Just trying to get a handle on what your immediate, and long-term goal is.
Posted on 4/11/20 at 6:37 pm to CrawDude
I was wondering where you were Craw. Hadn’t seen you for a couple days.
Like craw said what are your long term goals? I am not a fan of centipede but if you just want to fix your problem and have a low maintenance yard then centipede is probably the best bet. I love hybrid bermuda but a true hybrid. If requires work with constant mowing but it’s gorgeous and you can hit with damn near every herbicide. Also you won’t have big dead spots.
Like craw said what are your long term goals? I am not a fan of centipede but if you just want to fix your problem and have a low maintenance yard then centipede is probably the best bet. I love hybrid bermuda but a true hybrid. If requires work with constant mowing but it’s gorgeous and you can hit with damn near every herbicide. Also you won’t have big dead spots.
Posted on 4/11/20 at 10:47 pm to CrawDude
Bermuda, or even zoysia, seem like a nicer grass than centipede but I think it makes sense to keep centipede. Long and short term goal is a thick, full lawn. My original plan was to put some St. Augustine sod in some of the dead areas and let it take over but now we are thinking of overseeding.
Yes, the area near the patio holds water but drains relatively fast.
Fertilized once with milorganite and did a pre-emergent spray end of February. Can’t say for sure what was used... progressive landscaping did that for us. We have few weeds.
Some of the discoloration you see is ryegrass that was planted in some holes this fall. Our old company that sprayed pre-emergent/fertilizer killed a bunch of weeds last summer and left huge dead areas in the lawn that looked horrible.
I’m currently just trying to make the soul healthier until I can test it with LSU. I have a humic acid/sea kelp spray that I’ve used once.
Appreciate the feedback!
Yes, the area near the patio holds water but drains relatively fast.
Fertilized once with milorganite and did a pre-emergent spray end of February. Can’t say for sure what was used... progressive landscaping did that for us. We have few weeds.
Some of the discoloration you see is ryegrass that was planted in some holes this fall. Our old company that sprayed pre-emergent/fertilizer killed a bunch of weeds last summer and left huge dead areas in the lawn that looked horrible.
I’m currently just trying to make the soul healthier until I can test it with LSU. I have a humic acid/sea kelp spray that I’ve used once.
Appreciate the feedback!
Posted on 4/11/20 at 10:49 pm to ronk
I don’t mind high maintenance. I enjoy it. Any particular seeds you recommend if we went with Bermuda?
Posted on 4/12/20 at 9:50 am to thermal9221
Well it’s not cheap but Arden15 would be the seed you want. It is replacing princess 77 which was the got to seed for fast germination. You can get it at Hancock seed.
Posted on 4/12/20 at 10:01 am to thermal9221
Anything Bermudagrass or Zoysia related you need to listen to ronk’s advice.
If in the meantime while you settle on a long range game plan, if you want to get the centipede to look better, you could come back with a light application of an inorganic lawn fertilizer since you’ve already put down Milorganite, perhaps 2 lbs of a LESCO 15-5-15 or Fertilome 15-0-15 per 1000 sq ft.
The bare areas I might suggest going with your original plan and lay a some pieces of St Aug, Zoysia or named cultivar of Bermudagrass to see how you like it, or of course centipede. Those areas don’t seem large and might only be $30 to 50 for enough pieces of sod to fill in those bare areas. Weeds will fill in those bare areas soon if you delay much longer.
With centipede, because it grows slowly, you’ll just need to be patient. It should start filling in and looking better soon enough, but give it time. And cut the centipede at the recommended height - I’d suggest 2 inches - don’t scalp it - worst thing you can do for the health of the grass. Spot spray for weeds during the summer as needed as they emerge to keep them at bay.
If in the meantime while you settle on a long range game plan, if you want to get the centipede to look better, you could come back with a light application of an inorganic lawn fertilizer since you’ve already put down Milorganite, perhaps 2 lbs of a LESCO 15-5-15 or Fertilome 15-0-15 per 1000 sq ft.
The bare areas I might suggest going with your original plan and lay a some pieces of St Aug, Zoysia or named cultivar of Bermudagrass to see how you like it, or of course centipede. Those areas don’t seem large and might only be $30 to 50 for enough pieces of sod to fill in those bare areas. Weeds will fill in those bare areas soon if you delay much longer.
With centipede, because it grows slowly, you’ll just need to be patient. It should start filling in and looking better soon enough, but give it time. And cut the centipede at the recommended height - I’d suggest 2 inches - don’t scalp it - worst thing you can do for the health of the grass. Spot spray for weeds during the summer as needed as they emerge to keep them at bay.
Posted on 4/13/20 at 8:54 am to CrawDude
quote:
And cut the centipede at the recommended height - I’d suggest 2 inches
Didn't know this. I've been cutting at 3.5" to choke out the weeds. Will this hurt the centipede?
Posted on 4/13/20 at 8:56 am to Peejack84
Yah centipede is typically cut lower. 1.5-2.5 inches
Posted on 4/13/20 at 9:17 am to jimbeam
quote:
Yah centipede is typically cut lower. 1.5-2.5 inches
This
Posted on 4/22/20 at 1:07 pm to ronk
Ronk - a few more questions...
1. I am waiting on the Arden 15 seed to get in but I was able to get a soil test... see link. LINK Anything we should do in advance of getting the seed?
2. Any tips when we do put it down? Do we fertilize at the same time?
3. I think you are right about the fungus. Pictures with soil report. Is there a particular product you recommend?
1. I am waiting on the Arden 15 seed to get in but I was able to get a soil test... see link. LINK Anything we should do in advance of getting the seed?
2. Any tips when we do put it down? Do we fertilize at the same time?
3. I think you are right about the fungus. Pictures with soil report. Is there a particular product you recommend?
Posted on 4/22/20 at 2:09 pm to thermal9221
Not ronk, and he’ll answer your questions to him, but I looked at your soil analysis results and with a soil pH of 7.5, this is likely at least one factor why your centipede is not thriving as centipede performs best in acidic soils of pH of 5.0 to 6.0. Of course, soil compaction, fungal diseases, insect issues can also be mitigating factors you may be dealing with as well, but then some of these issues can be magnified when a grass struggles in a soil where pH is significantly higher than optimal.
Posted on 4/22/20 at 2:50 pm to CrawDude
Yep, I knew from talking with the neighbors that the pH wasn't optimal here for our grass. Some of them just use Scott's weed and feed and their lawns look so much better than ours so I'm not really sure what else we have done to make it so terrible but I am hoping to get a handle on it now.
Posted on 4/22/20 at 3:04 pm to thermal9221
quote:They have the same type of grass as you - centipede - or something different like St Augustine, Bermudagrass, Zoysia?
their lawns look so much better than ours
Posted on 4/22/20 at 3:05 pm to thermal9221
quote:
Some of them just use Scott's weed and feed and their lawns look so much better than ours
If their lawns are centipede they won’t look good for long. Unless they are using a minimal amount. My neighbor pours on the scotts and it’s taken two years but his yard has started to look like shite. Lots of dead spots. I was using lawn food when we first moved in but have since switched to just milorganite and grass clippings. I have a few damaged spots from over fertilization but they are repairing themselves slowly.
Dont use weed and feed
Posted on 4/22/20 at 3:26 pm to tilco
quote:
If their lawns are centipede they won’t look good for long. Unless they are using a minimal amount. My neighbor pours on the scotts and it’s taken two years but his yard has started to look like shite. Lots of dead spots. I was using lawn food when we first moved in but have since switched to just milorganite and grass clippings. I have a few damaged spots from over fertilization but they are repairing themselves slowly.
Dont use weed and feed
Correct
Posted on 4/22/20 at 4:44 pm to thermal9221
You are in need of a soil amendment. You'll want it about 6.5.
You'll want bare dirt so if you need to nuke it go for it. After take a power rake or metal rake and rough up the dirt. Apply the seed and rake a soil/sand mixture in a thin layer on top. Then water water water. Do not fertilize.
If you are truly switching the entire yard then you won't have to worry about fungus too much. If you are keeping the centipede then propiconizole will control most fungus at a fairly cheap price.
You'll want bare dirt so if you need to nuke it go for it. After take a power rake or metal rake and rough up the dirt. Apply the seed and rake a soil/sand mixture in a thin layer on top. Then water water water. Do not fertilize.
If you are truly switching the entire yard then you won't have to worry about fungus too much. If you are keeping the centipede then propiconizole will control most fungus at a fairly cheap price.
This post was edited on 4/22/20 at 5:11 pm
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