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Message
Lawn Restoration
Posted on 8/12/20 at 7:08 am
Posted on 8/12/20 at 7:08 am
I bought a house last spring in the Baton Rouge area, and at first, the St. Augustine in the backyard was in great condition. Over the past year it had declined due to several factors, having two labs in the backyard (indoor/outdoor dogs, so not all the time) coupled with a wet winter, and we constructed a large patio off the back side of the house. During the construction process we inadvertently damaged much of the grass surrounding the patio area. This may have been mistake #1, but I seeded the area in early spring with Centipede as I did not want to sod the area. By May, it seemed like everything was looking good and the damaged area had returned back to health, though now I had a mixture of St. Aug and Centipede in the yard.
Fast forward to July, I notice buttonweed beginning to take in a few spots. I was not fully aware the damage that the buttonweed could cause and how quickly it would spread. I did some research and treated with MSM, but this was until about three weeks ago and it had continued to spread. I certainly noticed much of the areas that were sprayed had begun to turn brown and start to die, but there were still other areas where it seemed to still be popping up. Rather than chase it around the yard for the remainder of the year, I went off the deep end this weekend and began removing all the areas that I could identify by raking them up down to the dirt and removing as much root as possible.
What I am left with now is a large area (much larger than when we killed the grass around the patio) that has been taken down to bare dirt and several other patches across the yard that are also bare. I am looking for advice on what my best path forward is here to have my lawn back in good shape for next spring? I am open to all options, even if it means completely re-sodding a large area. The only consideration is that we have two labs that will use the backyard, but I am not opposed to temporarily fencing off an area to allow the new grass to take.
What is my best option here?
Fast forward to July, I notice buttonweed beginning to take in a few spots. I was not fully aware the damage that the buttonweed could cause and how quickly it would spread. I did some research and treated with MSM, but this was until about three weeks ago and it had continued to spread. I certainly noticed much of the areas that were sprayed had begun to turn brown and start to die, but there were still other areas where it seemed to still be popping up. Rather than chase it around the yard for the remainder of the year, I went off the deep end this weekend and began removing all the areas that I could identify by raking them up down to the dirt and removing as much root as possible.
What I am left with now is a large area (much larger than when we killed the grass around the patio) that has been taken down to bare dirt and several other patches across the yard that are also bare. I am looking for advice on what my best path forward is here to have my lawn back in good shape for next spring? I am open to all options, even if it means completely re-sodding a large area. The only consideration is that we have two labs that will use the backyard, but I am not opposed to temporarily fencing off an area to allow the new grass to take.
What is my best option here?
Posted on 8/12/20 at 7:23 am to Rob Perillo
Either spend the money and sod, or plan to remove the rest and seed bermuda in the spring if the area gets plenty of sunlight.
This post was edited on 8/12/20 at 7:25 am
Posted on 8/12/20 at 8:29 am to Bawcephus
I havent called around, but any idea on $/sf for sodding? My yard is approx. 80x100.
I've got a big oak on one side of the yard that shades pretty good, so I am not sure if bermuda would be the best choice?
I've got a big oak on one side of the yard that shades pretty good, so I am not sure if bermuda would be the best choice?
Posted on 8/12/20 at 8:32 am to Rob Perillo
If your backyard is full sun you can seed/sod bermuda. Reasons for bermuda is because of its wear tolerance. Your dogs will do a lot less damage to bermuda than they will to St Aug or centipede. You will also be able to use a wider range of herbicides to control weeds. If you sod then you will want Tif 419. If you seed do not buy any Scotts or Pennington seed. Buy Princess 77/Arden 15 seed.
If you get less than 8 hours of sun then sod St Aug/centipede. You can sod it now. Water every morning for two weeks and then return to normal watering. Your dogs will damage it rather quickly though.
If you get less than 8 hours of sun then sod St Aug/centipede. You can sod it now. Water every morning for two weeks and then return to normal watering. Your dogs will damage it rather quickly though.
Posted on 8/12/20 at 9:02 am to ronk
If I were to overseed it with Bermuda, would it overtake the other varieties or should I expect there to be spots where the existing St. Aug might continue to grow? If so, any idea on how long I might expect for it to overtake the other varieties?
Posted on 8/12/20 at 9:26 am to Rob Perillo
I was told a pallet of sod covers approximately 450 sq. ft. Assuming you have 8000 sq. ft., you'll need ~18 pallets rounding up. I have no idea on price for bermuda but lets say $200/pallet. Thats $3600 for a completly solid bermuda lawn. Jump on a solid annual maintenance plan like those discussed here and you're set. From my experience, thats well worth it. Look at all the headache/BS you are going through now.
Posted on 8/12/20 at 9:39 am to Rob Perillo
I love my bermuda. Drought tolerant and stands up to pretty much any herbicide I lay down. I hydroseeded an improved bermuda strain called Daniella II. That requires a little more TLC than sod, but its substantially cheaper. Also keeping dogs out of a nice mud-pit would require a good bit of work.
How much shade does the oak tree give off? Is that part of the yard covered all day? If so, bermuda might struggle there.
I am assuming you aren't wanting to completely start over on your back yard? The different grass types would bother me but some people don't care. Zoysia may be a good option as it likes sun but can stand some shade. Also, get some Celsius herbicide to knock out the VBW. Its pricey but lasts a while and works well.
How much shade does the oak tree give off? Is that part of the yard covered all day? If so, bermuda might struggle there.
I am assuming you aren't wanting to completely start over on your back yard? The different grass types would bother me but some people don't care. Zoysia may be a good option as it likes sun but can stand some shade. Also, get some Celsius herbicide to knock out the VBW. Its pricey but lasts a while and works well.
Posted on 8/12/20 at 10:13 am to Rob Perillo
Bermuda won't overtake St Aug. However, there are chemicals you can buy that will kill St Aug that won't harm bermuda.
Posted on 8/12/20 at 10:37 am to good_2_geaux
With the amount of BS I have gone through, yes I wish I would've done this from the beginning of the year! I underestimated the amount of planning / care required to maintain a lawn.
Posted on 8/13/20 at 9:29 pm to ronk
quote:
Bermuda won’t take over st augustine
Which grass will? I have some holes in my st Augustine that is bermuda and I would like to mix in centipede since I’m getting tired of the st augustine. I have thought about plugging in zoysia instead but not sure if zoysia would take it over or not. I have a huge yard and looking for less maintenance
Posted on 8/13/20 at 10:29 pm to ronk
Why tifway419? What about celebration? You can get it from Simpson sod in Covington
Posted on 8/14/20 at 7:51 am to Jaspermac
It is very difficult for any type of grass to overtake and completely crowd out another type of grass. You have to make it unfavorable for the grass you want to get rid of. For instance if you have St Aug and you prefer bermuda you would have to mow the grass at 1-1.5 inches, reduce watering, increase fertilization.
Posted on 8/14/20 at 7:52 am to b-rab2
Celebration is a very nice variety of bermuda. I like tif because it is what I have. In the DFW area every sod farm has tif so if something heads south on my lawn I can easily fix my issue.
Posted on 8/15/20 at 7:36 pm to Rob Perillo
Here's what I would do since you want to do it cheap.
* Get some vinegar from Amazon that kills weeds and grass. 20 or 30%. Spray it on the St Aug and Centipede. It will kill most of it, if not all.
* Rake the heck out of it. Add potash since the vinegar will possibly acidify your soil somewhat. Add some sand.
* Hit it with a mix of (1) Bermuda seed (2) Scott's seed starter fertilizer and (3) Scott's Bermuda Thicker 'R Lawn. About 95% of your mix should be the Thick 'R Lawn. It has coated seed, 9-1-1 Fertilizer and a soil conditioner. And it freaking works. Wait about 3 weeks and lay down the Thick 'R lawn again. It will take several sacks. (4) Put down a strong pre-emergent in Feb. Then a solid weed/feed in early March. (5) In May put down the Thick 'R Lawn again. Water it 2/3 times a week and fertilize abut every 2 months. All that should set you back about $800/1,000. And if you have decent sun you will have the thickest Bermuda lawn around. One that will squeeze out most weeds.
* Get some vinegar from Amazon that kills weeds and grass. 20 or 30%. Spray it on the St Aug and Centipede. It will kill most of it, if not all.
* Rake the heck out of it. Add potash since the vinegar will possibly acidify your soil somewhat. Add some sand.
* Hit it with a mix of (1) Bermuda seed (2) Scott's seed starter fertilizer and (3) Scott's Bermuda Thicker 'R Lawn. About 95% of your mix should be the Thick 'R Lawn. It has coated seed, 9-1-1 Fertilizer and a soil conditioner. And it freaking works. Wait about 3 weeks and lay down the Thick 'R lawn again. It will take several sacks. (4) Put down a strong pre-emergent in Feb. Then a solid weed/feed in early March. (5) In May put down the Thick 'R Lawn again. Water it 2/3 times a week and fertilize abut every 2 months. All that should set you back about $800/1,000. And if you have decent sun you will have the thickest Bermuda lawn around. One that will squeeze out most weeds.
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