JB Weld for a cracked hand plane.

I say weld it. Grind a valley where the crack runs so the weld can get deeper into the metal and not just lay on the top.

Then grind it close and then file it to smooth out the repair.

ETA: Check out U-Tube videos that show how to go about brazing it as opposed to welding. Basically what I said only brazed instead of welded.

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I sense that when you say “weld” you mean big boy welding? Too much to buy and learn from scratch.

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Then check out brazing. A lot cheaper to do and no real special equipment needed.

Or, bring it to someone who knows what they are doing. Can't cost much to do that small of a repair.

Toss it way to much stress on it it will flex and gouge the surface

No matter what you decide to do, the first thing you have to do is drill the ends of the crack. Stress approaches infinity at the end of a crack, that’s why they run no matter the material. Once you spread the stress over the radius of your drilled hole then you can focus on repair.

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It is a Stanley Bedrock from 1911. Seems a shame to toss. It will never have value as a pristine one would, it will only ever be user grade. Just hope to shore it up a little. It'll never be my go-to plane.

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Hang it on the wall and go buy a new one.

You will never get it true repairing it and will curse it every time you need to use it.

Turn it into a scrub plane.

Hmmn . . .

Bouncing around on TD (for the first time in months) and stumbled across this.

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It is a Stanley Bedrock from 1911.

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The 1911-1943 Stanley Bedrock planes (the “flat-sided” models) are much more desirable than the pre-1911 (“round-sided”) ones.

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Seems a shame to toss.

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Yes, indeed.

I’ve seen this kind of problem more than once, with both wood and metal, and I’ve seen it solved before, too.

YMMV, of course, but I might be able to help:

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No matter what you decide to do, the first thing you have to do is drill the ends of the crack. Stress approaches infinity at the end of a crack, that’s why they run no matter the material. Once you spread the stress over the radius of your drilled hole then you can focus on repair.

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THIS ^

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Plane bed is likely cast iron, which is hard to weld properly, and that amount of heat could warp the base.

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THIS, too ^


The GOOD J-B Weld is like magic. The quick-setting version (J-B Kwik) -- not so much.

And you will need to have access to compressed air . . .

First, disassemble it. Then soak the plane bed in acetone.

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It can be moved but only slightly.

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Slightly is all you’ll need:

>> Use the compressed air to blow the crack dry. Do the acetone thing a few times -- you want to make sure that the inside of the crack is thoroughly degreased.

>> Press some J-B Weld into the crack -- hard -- w/ a putty knife, then use a quick shot of compressed air to blow it into the crack. Repeat until the J-B Weld begins to show on the other side of the crack.

The J-B Weld will have to thoroughly cure -- I’d let it go for about 4 days, before sanding it smooth.

Some Stanley Bedrocks are more valuable than others, but all of them are classics.

Hope you can salvage yours.

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I bought the JB Weld in a two plunger syringe

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Is that the good kind? I have used that same kit to repair a wrought iron hinge and it’s failed twice. Does it work on wrought iron?


eta: not a hinge. A door handle that goes on an outdoor gate.

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I bought the JB Weld in a two plunger syringe.

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Is that the good kind?

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Won’t work.

There are multiple “versions” of JB-Weld . . .

The ”good stuff” comes in a pair of 1-oz. tubes, on a blister-pack card.

5020 PSI - JB Weld

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Would you happen to know what marking the cap iron should have?

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I'm a geezer -- I can't remember anything else.

I haven’t even seen one in thirty years.