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How many tons of AC for a home with spray foam insulation?

Posted on 3/25/19 at 7:00 pm
Posted by Clint Torres
Member since Oct 2011
2788 posts
Posted on 3/25/19 at 7:00 pm
Just had an inspection done for 2850 sq ft home. It has a 2 ton unit for upstairs and a 2 ton unit for downstairs. Both air handlers are 3 ton.

The inspector said that the rule of thumb is 1 ton per 500 sq ft and that he believes that the units could be insufficient.

The builder was there during the inspection and said that energy efficient windows and spray foam insulation allow enough efficiency for those units.

Any thoughts?
Posted by Johnpettigrew
Louisiana
Member since Sep 2017
1700 posts
Posted on 3/25/19 at 7:28 pm to
According to specs you need six tons. I could understand 2 for bedrooms and 3 for living spaces, but you are 2 tons short. Obviously new build so no utility bills to take a look at. When I built my house, I went a ton above specs. Last moth my electric bill was $82 for 2300 living and is rarely over $200 during the summer. Thermostat set for 74 day and 68 at night
Posted by UltimaParadox
North Carolina
Member since Nov 2008
47217 posts
Posted on 3/25/19 at 7:30 pm to
No good answer for this, most AC guys only go by rule of thumb.

You really need something called a Manual J. If you know all the R factors for your entire house you can try to calculate yourself.

There are some downsides to getting too large of a unit, as they will cycle too quickly and not run long enough to get the humidity out of the home. Sometimes you can lower the fan speed, or get the more modern units that have multiple stages.
Posted by Clint Torres
Member since Oct 2011
2788 posts
Posted on 3/25/19 at 7:37 pm to
That’s def the rule of thumb. I’ve been researching though and some sites are saying that spray foam should result in 1000 sq ft per ton.
Posted by Clint Torres
Member since Oct 2011
2788 posts
Posted on 3/25/19 at 7:38 pm to
I definitely don’t know any of that. Who can do this manual j? Pretty much any hvac contractor?
Posted by wickowick
Head of Island
Member since Dec 2006
46125 posts
Posted on 3/25/19 at 7:57 pm to
You want 2 stage units that run at a temp point and a humidity point with spray foam. I have 2, 3 ton, 21 sear Carrier units for a 2 story 2600 sf home and they have way more than is needed keep it cold with the spray foam
Posted by keakar
Member since Jan 2017
30152 posts
Posted on 3/25/19 at 8:12 pm to
inspectors are all idiots, never trust them to know what they are doing, never trust their inspections to be thorough, never ever follow their advice on anything.

spray foam should be somewhere between 600-1000sq ft per ton because a lot depends on the type and amount of foam and if it was done properly.

you can turn a home into a mold trap if its not done right and its rarely done right. most i see the homeowner has to go back after the fact and add outdoor air ducts to bring in outside air to stop the mold growth.

call a licensed professional to come out and do an HVAC inspection and indoor air quality assessment


This post was edited on 3/25/19 at 8:14 pm
Posted by Drop4Loss
Birds Eye Of Deaf Valley
Member since Oct 2007
3967 posts
Posted on 3/25/19 at 8:19 pm to
Volume
Volume
Volume
SF dont mean shite if you dont know the ceiling eight for volume

Ya gonna go by the same SF tonnage for an 8 vs 12 ft ceiling house ?
Not


Posted by Clint Torres
Member since Oct 2011
2788 posts
Posted on 3/25/19 at 8:19 pm to
Thanks. Any recs for the Nola area?
Posted by Clint Torres
Member since Oct 2011
2788 posts
Posted on 3/25/19 at 8:20 pm to
10 ft up and down if that helps
Posted by keakar
Member since Jan 2017
30152 posts
Posted on 3/25/19 at 8:54 pm to
quote:

Thanks. Any recs for the Nola area?


no, its impossible unless you just want an uneducated wildly wrong guess

we already explained this to you, its like you are asking us what size shoe your wife needs, its not something you can just generalize when you are dealing with spray foam.

thats why most people decide not to use it.

a regular house with regular bat insulation will use 500 sq ft per ton rule of thumb and be accurate enough to be fine
This post was edited on 3/25/19 at 8:56 pm
Posted by cajuncarguy
On the road...Again!
Member since Jun 2013
3135 posts
Posted on 3/25/19 at 8:59 pm to
You should also factor in number of windows, their orientation, number of occupants, shading by trees, etc. When I built my last house Carrier had software that you could plug the data in and viola. Of course I rounded up.
Posted by Clint Torres
Member since Oct 2011
2788 posts
Posted on 3/25/19 at 9:06 pm to
Word. Appreciate it. I was looking for recs for someone to do this j manual analysis.
Posted by HatefulTiger
SELA
Member since Aug 2014
159 posts
Posted on 3/25/19 at 9:07 pm to
I would suggest calling Benfatti out of Slidell. They are a good company that will perform a heat load (manual J) on the space and give you a quote based on that assessment. The company I work for does the same, but we don't go across the lake. They do good work.
Posted by HubbaBubba
North of DFW, TX
Member since Oct 2010
48734 posts
Posted on 3/25/19 at 9:09 pm to
My home is also energy efficient, but at 3800 sq. ft. it requires three systems: 2.5 ton, 4 ton and 1.5 ton for a total of 8 tons. Using that 500 sq.ft rule of thumb, and sticking with 4 tons, in my estimation, you are going to regret it.
Posted by keakar
Member since Jan 2017
30152 posts
Posted on 3/25/19 at 9:11 pm to
quote:

someone to do this j manual analysis


ah ok, im sure someone from your area can help, if not call the local permit and inspection office. they know good people because they often use them for code inspections which are a completely different animal then realtor inspectors
Posted by Johnpettigrew
Louisiana
Member since Sep 2017
1700 posts
Posted on 3/26/19 at 5:42 am to
Maybe if it’s high density, closed cell foam. Also hope they used reflective roof insulation. I personally would be concerned over the long term. Also, are the units installed builder grade? I would get as much info as possible. Even go as far as to have an independent HVAC guy out there to give an opinion. If pressures are balanced, maybe install a zoning system, you might be good.
Posted by baldona
Florida
Member since Feb 2016
22394 posts
Posted on 3/26/19 at 8:18 am to
You can buy a dehumidifier for $150 OP and plug it in under your air handler to drain into your hvac drain lines.

As said, there are a lot of parts to the puzzle. The last thing you want is for your house to not cool down. Humidity can be dealt with in other ways though.
Posted by sodcutterjones
Member since May 2018
1306 posts
Posted on 3/26/19 at 8:19 am to
I got a 3 ton for 1900 sq feet, spray foam from baseboard to top of roof.
Posted by GoldenSombrero
Member since Sep 2010
2700 posts
Posted on 3/26/19 at 9:07 am to
quote:

inspectors are all idiots, never trust them to know what they are doing, never trust their inspections to be thorough, never ever follow their advice on anything.

spray foam should be somewhere between 600-1000sq ft per ton because a lot depends on the type and amount of foam and if it was done properly.

you can turn a home into a mold trap if its not done right and its rarely done right. most i see the homeowner has to go back after the fact and add outdoor air ducts to bring in outside air to stop the mold growth.

call a licensed professional to come out and do an HVAC inspection and indoor air quality assessment


Spot on. As others mentioned if you want to get accurate advice have someone run a manual J. Make sure you find an HVAC company that is familiar with spray foam though. Over-sizing, short cycling and moisture issues should be things they are aware of.

I used spray foam (which was a great investment) but HVAC company didn't think it mattered and just went by their normal "rule of thumb". I took .5 Ton of their recommendations, per a manual J and never had any issues.
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