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Message
re: Help trouble shooting Hustler Raptor that won’t crank -UPDATE - it was the starter
Posted on 9/30/24 at 12:57 pm to Tyga Woods
Posted on 9/30/24 at 12:57 pm to Tyga Woods
quote:
Have you tried putting the arms in different positions? Sometimes, I have to move the right arm in just a little bit to start it.
Yes... I've had that issue in the past. When that the was problem, I didn't even get a click when trying to crank it
1
Posted on 9/30/24 at 1:14 pm to Glock17
Should be 2 screws where the ignition is. Pick that up and there is a relay under there, maybe 2.
I had to do the same to my Raptor. Was maybe $15 part a few years ago.
Anyone knows where someone around BR sells used decks for a Raptor. I've looked online without much luck, other than new ones for over $1k. Mine finally went to crap. Looking for a 48 inch.
I had to do the same to my Raptor. Was maybe $15 part a few years ago.
Anyone knows where someone around BR sells used decks for a Raptor. I've looked online without much luck, other than new ones for over $1k. Mine finally went to crap. Looking for a 48 inch.
Posted on 9/30/24 at 1:28 pm to Glock17
Check the little lever things (don’t know name) that are at the bottom of the steering arms (where they go into the frame).
If I pull the arms in “park” too far, it does something weird with it that makes it like it’s in “drive”
It’s basically a switch in each arm that makes it not start if it’s not in “park “
If I pull the arms in “park” too far, it does something weird with it that makes it like it’s in “drive”
It’s basically a switch in each arm that makes it not start if it’s not in “park “
Posted on 9/30/24 at 2:15 pm to Glock17
quote:
quote:
that's located under your switch panel is bad
Dumb question... by switch panel do you mean the backside of where the ignition is?
My model has the ignition switch, throttle, choke and blade engagement all mounted on the panel. There are 2 relays on the back side of that panel. One is the start relay, the other is the kill relay.
Posted on 9/30/24 at 2:19 pm to Fraid Knot
quote:
My model has the ignition switch, throttle, choke and blade engagement all mounted on the panel. There are 2 relays on the back side of that panel. One is the start relay, the other is the kill relay.
Yeah that's what I was thinking. I actually had to replace the ignition about a year ago. It just fell apart on me.
Mine just had ignition, throttle and blade engagement. No choke
Posted on 9/30/24 at 3:02 pm to Glock17
The relay on mine is a generic 5 pole 12 volt relay.
Posted on 10/1/24 at 7:17 pm to Fraid Knot
Just an update…. Coworker helped out some and we checked the starter. It was “stuck” in the up position. We were able to remove it and get it to have movement, but still nothing when trying to crank.
Was able to freely turn the motor.
Ordered a starter and plan to get some of the relay switches tomorrow. I feel like it’s gotta to be one of those.
Was able to freely turn the motor.
Ordered a starter and plan to get some of the relay switches tomorrow. I feel like it’s gotta to be one of those.
Posted on 10/2/24 at 6:03 pm to Glock17
Replaced the relays and got nothing.
Put in a new starter and it fired right up. so now it has new relays, solenoid, and starter
spent a little extra in parts but a helluva lot cheaper than bringing it to the shop
Put in a new starter and it fired right up. so now it has new relays, solenoid, and starter
spent a little extra in parts but a helluva lot cheaper than bringing it to the shop This post was edited on 10/2/24 at 6:03 pm
Posted on 10/2/24 at 9:41 pm to Glock17
Here are a few thoughts if you want to dig a little deeper.
If you have a volt meter or test light, check the small red wire on the starter solenoid. (My solenoid is under the seat and has a small red wire with black stripe)
If you don't have 12 volts there when the key is turned to the start position, its a safety switch, starter relay, kill relay or key switch.
If you have 12 volts there when the key is turned to the start position, its not any of the above.
If you have 12 volts on the small wire at start position at the solenoid, check the big wire going to the starter. If you have power on that wire, its the starter.
If you have power on the small red wire and none on the big wire going to the starter, its the starter solenoid.
Think I covered it all.
Good Luck
Just read you got it going. Good deal.
If you have a volt meter or test light, check the small red wire on the starter solenoid. (My solenoid is under the seat and has a small red wire with black stripe)
If you don't have 12 volts there when the key is turned to the start position, its a safety switch, starter relay, kill relay or key switch.
If you have 12 volts there when the key is turned to the start position, its not any of the above.
If you have 12 volts on the small wire at start position at the solenoid, check the big wire going to the starter. If you have power on that wire, its the starter.
If you have power on the small red wire and none on the big wire going to the starter, its the starter solenoid.
Think I covered it all.
Good Luck
Just read you got it going. Good deal.
This post was edited on 10/2/24 at 9:45 pm
Posted on 10/5/24 at 10:34 am to Glock17
They don’t make those small starters like they used to. I find all my small motors need a new starter every 5 yrs or so. Your pto switch will likely go next. They all use the same type.
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