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FLOORING help needed
Posted on 3/19/25 at 2:16 pm
Posted on 3/19/25 at 2:16 pm
Any suggestions on how to get this vinyl plank to lock in?
I'm not able to lift it to get the angle needed due to the door frame.
But I don't want to cut it outside the door frame area because there will be a gap.
Any hacks? Thanks.

I'm not able to lift it to get the angle needed due to the door frame.
But I don't want to cut it outside the door frame area because there will be a gap.
Any hacks? Thanks.

Posted on 3/19/25 at 2:28 pm to bayoubengals88
In the past I have lifted up on one and pushed down on the other, then bump it at the hall to BR gap. real pain in the butt.
Posted on 3/19/25 at 2:46 pm to bayoubengals88
Get as much of it locked in as you can and then take a cut piece and lock it in on the door jamb side. Take a hammer or rubber mallet and bump it and it will force the opposite side in. Might have to bump it pretty good but if you have that smaller cut piece close to the door jamb, it'll be a good enough angle to get it locked in.
Kind of hard to describe but hope you can envision that.
Edit: Kind of like this but put the sliver down by the jamb not at the end...

Kind of hard to describe but hope you can envision that.
Edit: Kind of like this but put the sliver down by the jamb not at the end...

This post was edited on 3/19/25 at 2:48 pm
Posted on 3/19/25 at 3:06 pm to bayoubengals88
They make a little “T” shaped molding that I have seen used in such instances (that’s what I did and it works fine). Another route would be to trim the male side of the joint so you can get it to lie flush without having to lift it.
This post was edited on 3/19/25 at 3:10 pm
Posted on 3/19/25 at 4:05 pm to bayoubengals88
As stated above, you should be able to have someone else help you lift up the locked planks in the bathroom, lock in that last board, then carefully bend them down to where it slides under the door frame. Had a couple of these instances in my house when we did our LVP flooring. Just be careful.
Posted on 3/19/25 at 4:24 pm to TheBoo
quote:So take it out from under the door frame and try again?
lift up the locked planks in the bathroom, lock in that last board, then carefully bend them down to where it slides under the door frame.
Posted on 3/19/25 at 5:11 pm to bayoubengals88
A flooring pull bar would take care of that w quickness


Posted on 3/19/25 at 7:44 pm to weadjust
quote:If real glue down wood, absolutely.
A flooring pull bar would take care of that w quickness
But with this vinyl you’ve got to snap it in to place using about a 30° angle.
I’m at a loss.
Posted on 3/19/25 at 8:47 pm to bayoubengals88
Yes. Then after the boards are locked bend bend them enough to where you can get it under the door frame.
Posted on 3/19/25 at 9:39 pm to bayoubengals88
The jamb is going to prevent the two pieces from raising up so you should be able to wedge it under. Use a junk piece on the bathroom side and tap it into place. Carefully tap it in once it's lined up to lock it in.
It's not ideal because if it's not lined up exactly it's going to snap off the interlock.
It's not ideal because if it's not lined up exactly it's going to snap off the interlock.
This post was edited on 3/19/25 at 9:40 pm
Posted on 3/20/25 at 8:26 am to bayoubengals88
As others have said. You should be able to get the plank to the left up and lock this one on then essentially lay both down together letting it slide under the jamb. That or get the end in the doorway locked on as best you can and then use a pull bar on the end against the little wall to pull that end in. I just laid my entire house in LVP and I couldn't have done some of the ends without the pull bar. Sometimes you have to get a little aggressive specially in situations like this where you can't get the angle you need to lock them together easily.
If all that fails. I would remove the door molding in the picture. Trim plank where its not under the wall where and you can lift it to the angle you need to lock it in. After that, reinstall the door trim. That, the baseboard/quarter round, and the T mold should cover all gaps.
If all that fails. I would remove the door molding in the picture. Trim plank where its not under the wall where and you can lift it to the angle you need to lock it in. After that, reinstall the door trim. That, the baseboard/quarter round, and the T mold should cover all gaps.
Posted on 3/20/25 at 8:36 am to bayoubengals88
You could always buy a transition piece and glue it down on that strip you cant get.
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