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DIY Parking Pad 25x10

Posted on 9/6/23 at 3:59 pm
Posted by Saskwatch
Member since Feb 2016
18002 posts
Posted on 9/6/23 at 3:59 pm
Have a space behind back yard that I want to convert to dedicated parking pad for my boat. Right now it's just dirt/grass. Considering digging the area down a couple inches, placing weed guard mat on bottom, and installing some type of border around the outside. Put a "geo cell" grid filling the 25x10ft area. Then having someone come out and dump gravel for the pad.

So my questions would be
1) how far down (inches) to dig?
2) Geogrid a good idea?
3) how many tons of gravel and what size?

Has anyone done something similar? It'd just be me putting in the labor so something I could take care of in a few days or something I should outsource?
Posted by cgrand
HAMMOND
Member since Oct 2009
46707 posts
Posted on 9/6/23 at 4:37 pm to
quote:

So my questions would be
1) how far down (inches) to dig?
2) Geogrid a good idea?
3) how many tons of gravel and what size?


1) past the grass & black dirt till you hit clay
2) yes
3) 25x10xdepth/27+5% waste = cy of aggregate
Posted by skidry
Member since Jul 2009
3543 posts
Posted on 9/6/23 at 6:07 pm to
I would use 610 road base. 4” would be an absolute minimum. If you want to do it right the fist time you might consider 12”. Although in this scenario it won’t hurt to add layers later if needed.

Road base is probably 110lb/cf so for every 4” you need 5 tons.

Apparently the compacted weight is closer to 150lb/cf so you would need closer to 7 tons per 4” assuming you can compact it well.
This post was edited on 9/6/23 at 6:23 pm
Posted by turkish
Member since Aug 2016
2273 posts
Posted on 9/6/23 at 6:41 pm to
I have a similar sized project I’ve had on the back burner. Would this be cheaper than a concrete slab?
Posted by gerald65
Moss Bluff, LA
Member since Jul 2020
710 posts
Posted on 9/6/23 at 10:39 pm to
Before going to far with this project, you need to know how solid your soil is. Is there a clay base just under the grass. If not, the soil will not support the rocks very well and in a few years you will probably need to add more rocks.

If this is the case, you need to consider the cost of using rocks vs. concrete. If concrete, do you pour a 10x25 foot pad or two "strips", say 2 foot wide by 25 feet.

Two "strips" could be done with about 35 sacks [1cubic foot bags] of concrete and renting a concrete mixer. Do one "strip" and see if you have enough bags to finish the other strip. You don't what to run out of bags while doing the second pour.

For a 10x25 foot pad, hire someone, that is a lot of work unless you have a lot of experience with concrete. You could save some money and put in the boards around the boarder after doing the dirt work preparation with the footings.

If you pour concrete on top of the grass, be sure to slope the front edge so the tires can easily roll up on the concrete.
This post was edited on 9/6/23 at 10:47 pm
Posted by eng08
Member since Jan 2013
5997 posts
Posted on 9/7/23 at 7:02 am to
I always suggest to put down a geotextile to prevent the rocks from migrating into the dirt.

Instead of concrete you could do the the gravel filled parking pavers under the wheel paths similar to strips. Helps to lock in the gravel.

Would be cheaper and less concerned with aesthetics in the back of the yard.
Posted by WhiskeyThrottle
Weatherford Tx
Member since Nov 2017
6961 posts
Posted on 9/7/23 at 12:48 pm to
I second the road base. A buddy did a road base drive way and it compacted and was hard as concrete in a year. Once it's settled and compacted you can top dress with gravel or whatever else you want. He had concrete poured where the drive was recently and he couldn't break it with a shovel and the tractor had a hard enough time breaking into it as well.
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