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Appliance repairmen, Dryer help
Posted on 11/4/19 at 11:15 am
Posted on 11/4/19 at 11:15 am
I've got a 10 year old whirlpool duet dryer. It keeps blowing thermal fuses. Here is what I have done so far.
1. Cleaned the thermostat.
2. Jumped the thermal fuse, ran the dryer. The dryer continues to heat up constantly and never drops the temp back down.
3. Ran the dryer on the "air only" setting, the dryer heats up the same as the regular heat cycle. This leads me to believe that it wouldn't be a thermostat problem as there is something signalling the heating element to fire.
4. Removed the heat element and tested. Had good continuity across the element, and it was not grounded out. Visually checked for any cracks, worn, or damaged areas, and there were none.
Is there anything else it could possibly be besides the control panel? A new control panel is around $250 for it, and I'll probably just replace the dryer itself if thats the case
1. Cleaned the thermostat.
2. Jumped the thermal fuse, ran the dryer. The dryer continues to heat up constantly and never drops the temp back down.
3. Ran the dryer on the "air only" setting, the dryer heats up the same as the regular heat cycle. This leads me to believe that it wouldn't be a thermostat problem as there is something signalling the heating element to fire.
4. Removed the heat element and tested. Had good continuity across the element, and it was not grounded out. Visually checked for any cracks, worn, or damaged areas, and there were none.
Is there anything else it could possibly be besides the control panel? A new control panel is around $250 for it, and I'll probably just replace the dryer itself if thats the case
4
Posted on 11/4/19 at 11:53 am to dltigers3
Clean out the exhaust? Especially if it vents out the roof.
Posted on 11/4/19 at 12:38 pm to meeple
I've cleaned the vents both internal in the dryer, and the vent going outside. No significant blockage, and my dryer sits on an exterior wall so the vent it a short straight shot
Posted on 11/4/19 at 12:46 pm to dltigers3
The basic recommendation is to run the dryer not connected to your venting to see if the same continues. Unless you can visually see there is no blockage, I'd probably do that just to make 100% sure. Otherwise you just never know.
Posted on 11/4/19 at 12:59 pm to dltigers3
Yeah, dryers are pretty simple. If it’s clean and you’ve ruled out the thermostat being the issue, the control panel seems like the only other option. You could always buy a new control panel and see if that fixes your dryer, then decide if you rather buy a new dryer. Return the control panel if you rather have a new dryer (just make sure it’s returnable)
Posted on 11/4/19 at 1:51 pm to The Nino
quote:
Return the control panel if you rather have a new dryer (just make sure it’s returnable)
Most appliance parts if you open the package you can't return it. They specifically package them so that if you try this, you can't return it.
Posted on 11/4/19 at 2:13 pm to baldona
Yea, I can actually stick my hand through the vent so I am 100% it's not a clog.
I'm not going to replace the control panel, I'd rather just buy a new one. Just wanted to make sure I wasn't overlooking something else.
The fact that it is producing heat even when on the "air only" cycle was my biggest clue that it was a control panel issue
I'm not going to replace the control panel, I'd rather just buy a new one. Just wanted to make sure I wasn't overlooking something else.
The fact that it is producing heat even when on the "air only" cycle was my biggest clue that it was a control panel issue
Posted on 11/4/19 at 3:11 pm to dltigers3
quote:
The fact that it is producing heat even when on the "air only" cycle was my biggest clue that it was a control panel issue
Have you looked on Ebay for the part? Often enough you can find parts for cheap online that were not needed, from a broken machine, etc.
Posted on 11/4/19 at 3:14 pm to baldona
No, I will look later on. I've got to figure out the part number first
Posted on 11/4/19 at 3:45 pm to dltigers3
Just went thru this with the same make dryer. 
It came down to .50 in one hand and .50 in the other. I went and bought a new dryer. 
Cheap one at that for future reasons from HD. It had a small dent in the side and paid $250 out the door. One will never see the dent.
It came down to .50 in one hand and .50 in the other. I went and bought a new dryer. Cheap one at that for future reasons from HD. It had a small dent in the side and paid $250 out the door. One will never see the dent. 
Posted on 11/4/19 at 3:53 pm to dltigers3
quote:you have to completely remove the vent on that dryer to get to the clog. They usually clog between the 90 degree turn an where the lint trap is.
Yea, I can actually stick my hand through the vent so I am 100% it's not a clog.
This post was edited on 11/4/19 at 3:55 pm
Posted on 11/4/19 at 3:56 pm to Bedhog
Sorry, I was talking about the vent line through the wall. I'll remove the vent in a bit, but that still doesn't explain why it is producing heat when in "air only" mode
Internal vent is clear also, so definitely not a clog anywhere
Internal vent is clear also, so definitely not a clog anywhere
This post was edited on 11/4/19 at 4:46 pm
Posted on 11/4/19 at 4:55 pm to dltigers3
By internal vent what do you mean? The pic I posted requires the back panel to be taken off and the entire vent system from the lint trap to the exhaust port to be removed
Posted on 11/4/19 at 5:09 pm to Bedhog
Yes, the vent pipe that you pictured earlier, including the elbow, all the way to the lint trap is completely clear, as well as the pipe connecting the dryer to the wall, and the pipe going through the wall.
It is 100% not related to any blockage
It is 100% not related to any blockage
This post was edited on 11/4/19 at 5:10 pm
Posted on 11/4/19 at 5:10 pm to dltigers3
quote:
Jumped the thermal fuse, ran the dryer. The dryer continues to heat up constantly and never drops the temp back down.
I may be backwards here, but I'm pretty sure the thermal fuse is to prevent it from overheating. They are one time use many cases? If it gets to a certain temp, it pops the fuse to prevent it from overheating.
So if you "jump" the fuse, its certainly going to continue to heat up as that is the fuse's job.
The thermostat is your issue. That kicks the power off and on to keep it between temps. Or maybe just off when it gets hot.
But some dryers have 2 thermostats. So check your specs? I'm not a professional, I just work on them for my rental properties.
ETA: I would at least try and replace the thermostat. Many of the repair part kits come with a thermostat, heating element, and thermal fuse as a 3 pack or a 4 pack if it has a 2nd thermostat.
ETA2: If your thermostat was broken in the open position so it did not turn the heat off, that would explain your issue.
This post was edited on 11/4/19 at 5:13 pm
Posted on 11/4/19 at 5:13 pm to baldona
Correct, the thermal fuse is there to protect from overheating. I connected the two wires while I troubleshoot so I am not constantly replacing $10 fuses every couple of minutes. The thermostat is supposed to cycle the heat on and off around 150 degrees.
The reason I believe it is not a thermostat issue is that when I put the dryer in "air only" it is still heating up. As far as I understand, once in "air only" mode the thermostat isn't really involved as the heating element isn't supposed to operate at all and since my dryer is still overheating in this mode, the control panel is sending a signal to the heating element
The reason I believe it is not a thermostat issue is that when I put the dryer in "air only" it is still heating up. As far as I understand, once in "air only" mode the thermostat isn't really involved as the heating element isn't supposed to operate at all and since my dryer is still overheating in this mode, the control panel is sending a signal to the heating element
This post was edited on 11/4/19 at 5:16 pm
Posted on 11/4/19 at 5:24 pm to dltigers3
quote:
As far as I understand, once in "air only" mode the thermostat isn't really involved as the heating element isn't supposed to operate at all and since my dryer is still overheating in this mode, the control panel is sending a signal to the heating element
Are you 100% on that? Its possible something is supposed to turn the power off to the element past the control panel is all? You may be right, but it sounds like a basic switch issue to me which would be something like a thermostat. It could certainly be the control panel also I agree.
ETA: I would think you could figure this out and use a volt meter to tell? Also definitely look your model on ebay as there are some used control boards for $29-50.
This post was edited on 11/4/19 at 5:26 pm
Posted on 11/4/19 at 5:28 pm to baldona
No, I am not 100%, but every search I do online says that if it is putting out heat in "air only "mode there are only 2 possible issues.
1. A shorted out heating element, but I have both visually inspected, as well as checked continuity on mine, and everything is fine
2. A shorted control board sending a signal to the heating element
Maybe someone else will chime in that knows for sure, but as far as I can tell, once in air mode there should be no signal going to the heating element at all, so if it is firing there is a problem on that end
Edit, I did a quick search earlier, couldn't find a used control board anywhere. New ones are 250-290 (ouch). I'll look again on eBay in a bit
1. A shorted out heating element, but I have both visually inspected, as well as checked continuity on mine, and everything is fine
2. A shorted control board sending a signal to the heating element
Maybe someone else will chime in that knows for sure, but as far as I can tell, once in air mode there should be no signal going to the heating element at all, so if it is firing there is a problem on that end
Edit, I did a quick search earlier, couldn't find a used control board anywhere. New ones are 250-290 (ouch). I'll look again on eBay in a bit
This post was edited on 11/4/19 at 5:31 pm
Posted on 11/4/19 at 8:41 pm to dltigers3
It's possible there is a solid state relay on the control board. When they fail, it's always in the closed position. That may be why there is always power going to the heating element.
Posted on 11/4/19 at 9:09 pm to dltigers3
quote:
No, I am not 100%, but every search I do online says that if it is putting out heat in "air only "mode there are only 2 possible issues.
1. A shorted out heating element, but I have both visually inspected, as well as checked continuity on mine, and everything is fine
This doesn’t make any sense to me. The heating element can’t get hot by itself? It requires power. It’s very basic, power makes heat and no power makes no heat. That power is supplied by the control panel via the thermostat via the thermal fuse. The purpose of the latter 2 is to cut off power to element, if they fail the element can’t just get hot on its own.
Eta: thinking more, I feel like it’s still the thermostat. The control panel just tells the thermostat to supply power or not, or maybe it doesn’t. But in normal hot mode there’s still something wrong, I don’ think the control panel bypasses the thermostat as it shouldn’t. If the thermostat shows it’s hot the power should be turned off no matter the control panel? I bet it’s stuck in the open position or whatever and constantly supplying power to the element.
In other words, if it’s the control panel the thermostat should still be killing the heat once it hits a certain temp.
Eta: thermostat is usually like a $10 part and easy to replace. I’d try it before buying a new dryer.
This post was edited on 11/4/19 at 9:11 pm
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