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1
Posted on 10/11/15 at 11:04 am to Mr Gardoki
I'm not sure. I used one a while back, but I can't remember which one.
I never had problems with it.
I never had problems with it.
Posted on 10/11/15 at 11:08 am to Devious
Not sure why it matters, my Pc is used for paying bills 
Posted on 10/11/15 at 11:09 am to Mr Gardoki
For that, you could just use your phone as a hot spot.
Eta:ignore that...you'd still need to be able to connect to it wirelessly. And your mobo doesn't have that capability built in, right?
Eta:ignore that...you'd still need to be able to connect to it wirelessly. And your mobo doesn't have that capability built in, right?
This post was edited on 10/11/15 at 11:12 am
Posted on 10/11/15 at 11:11 am to Devious
I know the moment I sold the PC, I would regret it though
Posted on 10/11/15 at 11:13 am to Mr Gardoki
Just sell your parts to sic. He needs to upgrade before next month.
Posted on 10/11/15 at 11:22 am to Devious
I'd consider selling the GPU
Posted on 10/11/15 at 12:10 pm to Mr Gardoki
Posted on 10/11/15 at 1:17 pm to ILikeLSUToo
I just watched that episode
Posted on 10/14/15 at 12:13 am to ILikeLSUToo
ILike - my beast lives.
As far as the Noctua NH-D15 versus the Hyper 212 - I will say that, at the end of the day, the Hyper 212 was easier for me - but it may be that I'm old fashioned. I can see that - now that I've done one, I could fall in love with the Noctua's system. It is sort of an Apples-to-Oranges comparison, because I did the Hyper 212 on an AMD3 socket and the Noctua on an 1151.
Things I didn't know - you have to put the processor in first - there's no way to put the brackets and support for the Noctua in first. You also have to have an idea of which way you're going to direct the air as that does impact the orientation of the the support brackets. Also, as impressed as I was with the packaging and build quality - I wasn't 100% happy with the enclosed diagram and instructions - again, I think the second would go much easier.
Once the brackets were on, though, the Noctua itself went on easier than the Hyper 212. The Noctua monster attaches with 2 screws whereas the Hyper 212 went on with 4.
The fan was a little easier to remove and a little more difficult to reattach after installation - I believe this is the "middle" fan issue with the Noctua. The fan has to go between the towers - if oriented to direct the flow of air out the back chassis fan, there is precious little room between the top of the heatsink and the top of the case - if you assemble the entire board outside the chassis first, I believe a lot of that could go easier.
Another thing - That upper right corner of the ASUS motherboard is a chassis fan connector. The bios told me quickly I didn't have a CPU fan connected, so that was my single (so far) cabling mistake. I decided to go with the internal Fractal setup for the chassis fan and power. It has a 3 toggle switch under the front panel. If I ultimately don't like that, the MB has 4 chassis fan ports. The Fractal fans are both 3-pin.
So, running just in the bios screen for about 45 minutes now - I'm reading CPU temp at 29 to 30, MB 27 and PCH 39. All stock. I think I'm going to tackle Windows 10 installation tomorrow.
ETA: At stock settings - it is the quietest computer I've built.
As far as the Noctua NH-D15 versus the Hyper 212 - I will say that, at the end of the day, the Hyper 212 was easier for me - but it may be that I'm old fashioned. I can see that - now that I've done one, I could fall in love with the Noctua's system. It is sort of an Apples-to-Oranges comparison, because I did the Hyper 212 on an AMD3 socket and the Noctua on an 1151.
Things I didn't know - you have to put the processor in first - there's no way to put the brackets and support for the Noctua in first. You also have to have an idea of which way you're going to direct the air as that does impact the orientation of the the support brackets. Also, as impressed as I was with the packaging and build quality - I wasn't 100% happy with the enclosed diagram and instructions - again, I think the second would go much easier.
Once the brackets were on, though, the Noctua itself went on easier than the Hyper 212. The Noctua monster attaches with 2 screws whereas the Hyper 212 went on with 4.
The fan was a little easier to remove and a little more difficult to reattach after installation - I believe this is the "middle" fan issue with the Noctua. The fan has to go between the towers - if oriented to direct the flow of air out the back chassis fan, there is precious little room between the top of the heatsink and the top of the case - if you assemble the entire board outside the chassis first, I believe a lot of that could go easier.
Another thing - That upper right corner of the ASUS motherboard is a chassis fan connector. The bios told me quickly I didn't have a CPU fan connected, so that was my single (so far) cabling mistake. I decided to go with the internal Fractal setup for the chassis fan and power. It has a 3 toggle switch under the front panel. If I ultimately don't like that, the MB has 4 chassis fan ports. The Fractal fans are both 3-pin.
So, running just in the bios screen for about 45 minutes now - I'm reading CPU temp at 29 to 30, MB 27 and PCH 39. All stock. I think I'm going to tackle Windows 10 installation tomorrow.
ETA: At stock settings - it is the quietest computer I've built.
This post was edited on 10/14/15 at 12:18 am
Posted on 10/14/15 at 10:33 am to Ace Midnight
Pics!
Posted on 10/14/15 at 12:26 pm to ILikeLSUToo
Maybe I'll do some pics later. I need a USB wifi adapter. I'm going to swap my old desktop out, but I need to be fully functional with the beast first. Windows 10 installed to the Samsung in about 12 minutes.
(ETA: Headed to Wal-Mart...)
(ETA: Headed to Wal-Mart...)
This post was edited on 10/14/15 at 12:27 pm
Posted on 10/14/15 at 3:32 pm to Ace Midnight
I have Windows 10 problems now. I suspected the wifi driver for the dongle - but I pulled the O/S hard drive and deleted the volume. The Windows DVD won't get past a machine check exception. This is without any overclocking. Albeit it was under quite a low load, it seemed to be working fine in the O/S and even initially connected to the internet. I was in the process of configuring Firefox and it went to a BSOD - "clock watchdog timeout" - so I went back into the bios and it told me "overclock fail" - and I didn't overclock anything. I loaded the MB defaults and retried. Now windows fails with "Machine Check Exception" - and says it will restart, but it never does.
Thermally fine - no issues at the bios screen - just refuses to go back into a windows environment without an MCE. I'm at a loss. I don't have equipment untainted by the wifi dongle driver install. And if the Windows DVD won't progress to a repair even, I'm concerned something else is going on.
Anything else to try before calling ASUS (I assume ASUS first - then Intel)?
Thermally fine - no issues at the bios screen - just refuses to go back into a windows environment without an MCE. I'm at a loss. I don't have equipment untainted by the wifi dongle driver install. And if the Windows DVD won't progress to a repair even, I'm concerned something else is going on.
Anything else to try before calling ASUS (I assume ASUS first - then Intel)?
Posted on 10/14/15 at 4:22 pm to Ace Midnight
Odds of it being a processor problem are the lowest of all.
Clock Watchdog can be a lot of different things, including an unstable OC which you've ruled out. It can be from a bad motherboard, bad RAM, bad drivers, bad system files, etc.
First, check your motherboard bios version and see if there's an update. There's usually a flurry of bios updates in the early months of a motherboard's life. Flash the new one and see if it fixes things.
If not, go barebones. Remove your video card, all but one stick of RAM, all but your SSD and optical drive, just leaving the bare minimum it takes for your computer to be a computer (plus the optical drive). See if the problem goes away, in which case you've helped narrow down the culprit.
If that doesn't work, wipe your SSD completely and reinstall Windows from scratch, sticking with the barebones setup for now. If it lets you install successfully, install the latest motherboard drivers (chipset/audio/LAN/etc) one by one, rebooting each time one is installed. Do the same with every new program or driver, and each time you introduce hardware back into the machine, just to rule out or identify conflicts there.
If you can't even get Windows installed again after all that, it would be time to RMA the mobo. Unless it's the RAM, but that would be easy to test by swapping sticks in the barebones configuration (Really, what are the odds of two sticks in a single kit being dead?).
Clock Watchdog can be a lot of different things, including an unstable OC which you've ruled out. It can be from a bad motherboard, bad RAM, bad drivers, bad system files, etc.
First, check your motherboard bios version and see if there's an update. There's usually a flurry of bios updates in the early months of a motherboard's life. Flash the new one and see if it fixes things.
If not, go barebones. Remove your video card, all but one stick of RAM, all but your SSD and optical drive, just leaving the bare minimum it takes for your computer to be a computer (plus the optical drive). See if the problem goes away, in which case you've helped narrow down the culprit.
If that doesn't work, wipe your SSD completely and reinstall Windows from scratch, sticking with the barebones setup for now. If it lets you install successfully, install the latest motherboard drivers (chipset/audio/LAN/etc) one by one, rebooting each time one is installed. Do the same with every new program or driver, and each time you introduce hardware back into the machine, just to rule out or identify conflicts there.
If you can't even get Windows installed again after all that, it would be time to RMA the mobo. Unless it's the RAM, but that would be easy to test by swapping sticks in the barebones configuration (Really, what are the odds of two sticks in a single kit being dead?).
This post was edited on 10/14/15 at 4:24 pm
Posted on 10/14/15 at 4:48 pm to ILikeLSUToo
I'm flashing the bios now. What are the odds anything went bad the first 12 hours of me using it. I let the bios run overnight. I didn't install Windows until this morning - again - everything was fine until shortly after I installed the wifi dongle - I didn't grab the latest driver for it and just went the easy way off the disc - I didn't select any of the utilities, but just the driver only - it seemed to go well. Next culprit is Firefox - it was in the middle of that installation. Just disappointed I can't get back to the option to do a clean install yet. We'll see with the bios update.
Posted on 10/14/15 at 6:17 pm to Ace Midnight
Yeah - I'm really disappointed. I'm about ready to tear it all down and get what money I can back. Of course, this happened once before and I just pushed through and got it done.
What is the most likely culprit that prevents even the Windows 10 DVD from running setup? I eliminated the ram (unless it is both sticks). I eliminated the drives as I tired it with each one, solo, attached to the OS Sata port. So, that leaves the Mobo and CPU.
Now - I haven't ruled out a thermal problem or an improper CPU or HSF install. However, I believe I would have seen something the first time through - I mean I had a functioning Windows 10 environment - for a while. That makes it difficult to believe any part was bad out of the box - to the point where there isn't a set of inconsistent failures (although some things are strange - the graphics doesn't fire to wake up the monitor every now and then - by know, as you can imagine, I've had dozens of hard restarts)- but a single, glaring one. Windows runs and there is an MCE. Outside of that initial Clock Watchdog Timeout, that's been the hard stop everytime.
No option to format drives, no "gathering data" - just an MCE before entry into Windows 10 - after a clean install this morning. The CPU obviously isn't fried - it appears to be responding normally within bios - ditto for the MB - I mean, Freedos runs as expected from the Asus DVD - changes are accepted within bios - apparently as expected. It reads changes to the hardware as expected.
Are there any utilities I can run to rule in/rule out the CPU or the MB? Should I fool around with Newegg or just send both parts back RMA?
What is the most likely culprit that prevents even the Windows 10 DVD from running setup? I eliminated the ram (unless it is both sticks). I eliminated the drives as I tired it with each one, solo, attached to the OS Sata port. So, that leaves the Mobo and CPU.
Now - I haven't ruled out a thermal problem or an improper CPU or HSF install. However, I believe I would have seen something the first time through - I mean I had a functioning Windows 10 environment - for a while. That makes it difficult to believe any part was bad out of the box - to the point where there isn't a set of inconsistent failures (although some things are strange - the graphics doesn't fire to wake up the monitor every now and then - by know, as you can imagine, I've had dozens of hard restarts)- but a single, glaring one. Windows runs and there is an MCE. Outside of that initial Clock Watchdog Timeout, that's been the hard stop everytime.
No option to format drives, no "gathering data" - just an MCE before entry into Windows 10 - after a clean install this morning. The CPU obviously isn't fried - it appears to be responding normally within bios - ditto for the MB - I mean, Freedos runs as expected from the Asus DVD - changes are accepted within bios - apparently as expected. It reads changes to the hardware as expected.
Are there any utilities I can run to rule in/rule out the CPU or the MB? Should I fool around with Newegg or just send both parts back RMA?
Posted on 10/14/15 at 6:21 pm to Ace Midnight
That's weird. I can't imagine a wifi dongle causing Windows to shite the bed so badly.
Posted on 10/14/15 at 7:13 pm to ILikeLSUToo
Well - I just pulled the Noctua and processor - reseated the processor (ETA: They were cold to the touch), reapplied thermal paste reconnected and same MCE at Windows - running from the DVD.
The only thing I have left to try is to use MS media creation tool and make a flash drive - thus eliminating the Windows DVD and the blu-ray drive as problems. After that, I guess I start with Newegg - they may be able to steer me in the right direction.
Very frustrating.
The only thing I have left to try is to use MS media creation tool and make a flash drive - thus eliminating the Windows DVD and the blu-ray drive as problems. After that, I guess I start with Newegg - they may be able to steer me in the right direction.
Very frustrating.
This post was edited on 10/14/15 at 7:18 pm
Posted on 10/14/15 at 7:18 pm to Ace Midnight
You ran barebones, too? And it won't even let you reformat and reinstall?
Posted on 10/14/15 at 7:26 pm to ILikeLSUToo
quote:
You ran barebones, too?
Heck, ILike - all I have are barebones. I'm going with integrated graphics for a month or 3 and get a GPU end of this year, beginning of next.
All in - i7-6700k, the Noctua, Asus Z170-A, Corsair 850 HM, G.Skills Ripjaws V (3000) 2x8gb, an optical drive, a Samsung 850 pro (1TB), and a WD 3TB spinner. I've run it with each drive and each stick separately. Again - the entire gumbo worked for the briefest of periods. Something happened with Windows - not the first time, but I've never not gotten Windows back up to re-install before. This thing just balks. I've never gotten bad media from microsoft before - I guess there's a first time for everything. That's why I'm ruling it and the optical drive out now.
At this point - if it is the hardware, I'm almost certain it is the CPU. If it isn't the CPU or the Mobo - then it is operator error (or bad Windows media).
This post was edited on 10/14/15 at 7:28 pm
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