Started By
Message

Homemade Pizza Dough Tips (and recipe)

Posted on 3/21/21 at 12:27 pm
Posted by Grillades
Member since Nov 2009
551 posts
Posted on 3/21/21 at 12:27 pm
I started making pizza dough at home about 20 years ago. I have made thousands of pizzas over the years (no exaggeration). I played with the dough recipe for ten years, oftentimes cooking a dozen pizzas on a Saturday just to test. I messed up a lot of dough before figuring some things out. Before I share what I learned, I understand that there are many ways to make quality bread. Yours may differ so I am not claiming that this is the pizza Bible. Anyhow, I found some things that allowed me to make great pizza dough in my kitchen using my oven. Hopefully, my failures might help beginners make consistently delicious pizza dough. Here are my findings.

Bread making is considerably different than cooking meats and vegetables. Bread making ingredients make far less difference than technique will. IMHO, time, temperature, and kneading determine the outcome of the dough. Cheap AP flour, instant yeast, and tap water done right will absolutely crush imported Caputo flour, fresh yeast, and spring water done wrong. Simply mix the ingredients, cover it, then walk away. Be patient for 30 minutes or so to allow the flour to hydrate. Then, knead until sufficient gluten develops. The wait (or autolyse as the French call it) will allow the dough to get softer, smoother, and more elastic.

There is no substitute for time when making any bread, pizza dough included. The faster a dough is fermented, the less flavor and texture it will have. If you load up yeast and try to have the dough ready in three hours, you will get a white dough with many small bubbles and little flavor. Cut the yeast, extend the time, and reap the rewards. Properly fermented dough is yellowish and full of irregular bubbles. It is easier to handle and shape without tearing. I much prefer either a 2-day cold fermentation in the refrigerator using 0.5% yeast or a 10 hour room-temp fermentation using very little yeast (as low as 0.07%). Honestly, time and temperature require a book to fully cover. You should test and observe the differences.

The basic formula for home-oven dough is not the same for high-heat oven (700-900F) dough. Conventional oven dough is formulated to cook around 500F on a pizza stone, sheet pan, or cooking steel. If that is the type of oven you have, do not fool with Neapolitan-style doughs and techniques. They will always render doughs that are white and insipid in a home oven. After the third 55lb. bag of Caputo 00 flour yielded the same mediocre result, I finally capitulated. Garden-variety AP or bread flour work better in a home oven. Side note - there are ways to cook Neapolitan-style pizza in a home oven using a broiler and whatnot but are way more work. Also, I don't think it is worth the effort. A gas or wood-burning outdoor pizza oven is another matter entirely but that's for a separate post. Those pizzas can be terrific.

For accuracy and consistency, always portion ingredients by weight not volume. Also, using Baker's Percentages for the recipe makes it easier to scale the quantity up or down. For a basic home-oven dough recipe, I use:
AP or bread flour (I prefer unbleached flour but any will work)
66% hydration
2% salt
0.1% instant yeast (based on an 8-hour room temp fermentation)
4% fat (oil, butter, etc.)

For three New York style thin-crust 13" pizzas (300g dough each):
522g flour
344g water
0.5g instant yeast
11g salt
23g fat

For three thicker-crust 13" pizzas (500g dough each):
869g flour
573g water
0.9g yeast
17g salt
39g fat

From my experience, getting the technique worked out before you start messing with ingredients will yield significantly better results.

After reading my own post, I may have created more questions than answers. If so, fire away and I will share what I have learned. If you have tips for me, I would be grateful if you shared them. I am always looking to eat better pizza.
Posted by RockyMtnTigerWDE
War Damn Eagle Dad!
Member since Oct 2010
105414 posts
Posted on 3/21/21 at 12:43 pm to
I have done Neapolitan style in my home oven and use two stones top and bottom and use the broiler and bake method. It is definitely worth the effort for me. We have no pizza joint where I live that does good pizza. I had to learn if I wanted it and not the chains.

It’s all relative I guess whether it’s worth it and I do a slow fermented low yeast and agree with a lot you have shared but I do not have the experience you have. I have just found a dough and method that friends, family, and myself love and that goal has been accomplished.

However, I am always trying different things to see if I can get better beyond my consistent go to because it’s fun. Thank you for the post.
Posted by TigerFanatic99
South Bend, Indiana
Member since Jan 2007
27609 posts
Posted on 3/21/21 at 1:34 pm to
So you listed the ingredients, but a recipe needs instructions as well. Let's say I wanna do the thicker 13 inch pizza. I want to put it in the oven at 5pm, and make the dough around 7pm the night before to give ferment time.
Posted by KosmoCramer
Member since Dec 2007
76526 posts
Posted on 3/21/21 at 1:58 pm to
1. I would recommend getting a 1/8th tsp for the yeast. Typical kitchen scales aren't accurate enough for that. Better to do it by volume.

ETA:1/8 tsp of ADY is ~.5g

2. I wouldn't use a pizza stone, I'd recommend a steel. If you want to get into bread (french baguettes, etc.) You can go to a steel fabricator with the measurement of your oven and have them cut something for you. Here is the guide for that: Pizzamaking Forun
This post was edited on 3/21/21 at 2:03 pm
Posted by jojothetireguy
Live out in Coconut Grove
Member since Jan 2009
10484 posts
Posted on 3/21/21 at 2:00 pm to
Read for a home oven when using a pizza stone, to heat up the stone as hot as possible and then add the pizza, turn the heat off and turn on the broiler. What's your opinion on that?
Posted by Grillades
Member since Nov 2009
551 posts
Posted on 3/21/21 at 2:18 pm to
@TigerFanatic99

I added in the the post that I probably raised more questions than answers. I can get you close based on this

"I much prefer either a 2-day cold fermentation in the refrigerator using 0.5% yeast or a 10 hour room-temp fermentation using very little yeast (as low as 0.07%). Honestly, time and temperature require a book to fully cover. You should test and observe the differences. "

I have not tested every possible time and temp combination. Besides, the temps in folks' kitchens vary wildly. Yeast double activity for each increase of 17 degree F. That greatly changes the rise time. Anyhow, for a 22 hour cold fermentation, I would put 0.4% yeast. If looks like it is rising too slowly, pull it out of the fridge for a few hours before cooking. The warmer ambient temp will get the yeast moving quicker. Again, you have to experiment but that puts you in the ballpark.
Posted by Grillades
Member since Nov 2009
551 posts
Posted on 3/21/21 at 2:22 pm to
@jojothetireguy

I have tried that. In my oven set at 500F with the stone on the bottom of the oven, though, the toppings cook slightly quicker than the crust. If I turned on the broiler, it would scorch the toppings before the crust browned. Other ovens may not have the same issue as mine so I can see that your idea could certainly work in ovens where the crust cooked faster than the toppings.
Posted by Grillades
Member since Nov 2009
551 posts
Posted on 3/21/21 at 2:31 pm to
@Kosmo

I have two scales, one for flour and one smaller, very precise one for yeast (to 100th of a gram). I do agree, though, that the bigger scale will not measure quantities less than a few grams very precisely.

I have been on the fence about a steel but I will probably end up getting one soon out of curiosity. I have spent many hours trying to get better Parisian-style french bread but browning the bottom and getting good lift are rarely a problem I experience. Shaping and scoring on the other hand...a mess.
Posted by RockyMtnTigerWDE
War Damn Eagle Dad!
Member since Oct 2010
105414 posts
Posted on 3/21/21 at 3:16 pm to
quote:

2. I wouldn't use a pizza stone, I'd recommend a steel. If you want to get into bread (french baguettes, etc.) You can go to a steel fabricator with the measurement of your oven and have them cut something for you. Here is the guide for that:


Stones have been working fine but I will take a look at the steel. You are the third one who has recommended the steel.

Kosmo, using the steel would allow me to use just the broiler because the steel will brown the bottom as fast as the broiler will cook the ingredients on top correct?
This post was edited on 3/21/21 at 4:18 pm
Posted by BigPapiDoesItAgain
Amérique du Nord
Member since Nov 2009
2777 posts
Posted on 3/21/21 at 6:02 pm to
What brand of yeast do you use? I have a crapload of SAF-instant yeast in my freezer, will that do?

So is it a mix into a ball thing with a mixer or a food processor, then cover and rest for either of the two methods you note above?

With regard to kneading, what's your process and when rounding out do you use windowpane method, or something else?

Can you elaborate on your cooking method as in oven temp and time with steel or stone in there before loading the pie onto it and how long to cook roughly (I'm sure there is a range based on the oven, but I'm just looking for a guideline).

Thanks for indulging my questions - I dabbled in this several years back and decided it was more trouble than I wanted to fool with, but I'm ready to circle back.
Posted by KosmoCramer
Member since Dec 2007
76526 posts
Posted on 3/21/21 at 6:06 pm to
quote:

Kosmo, using the steel would allow me to use just the broiler because the steel will brown the bottom as fast as the broiler will cook the ingredients on top correct?


I think the steel does retain heat more than the stone, hence better browning/crispiness. But the big benfit from the custom steel is they are bigger than the stones to allow bigger pizzas, more uses (french baguettes, etc.)
Posted by RockyMtnTigerWDE
War Damn Eagle Dad!
Member since Oct 2010
105414 posts
Posted on 3/21/21 at 6:11 pm to
Posted by Grillades
Member since Nov 2009
551 posts
Posted on 3/21/21 at 6:53 pm to
BigPapi

I use SAF instant yeast and keep it in the freezer.

I knead both ways, sometimes by hand and sometimes in a stand mixer. Either way, mix until it forms a single mass, cover with a dish towel or plastic wrap, and let it sit for 20-30 minutes.

I use the window pane test but I stop short of fully worked. The extra time during a long fermentation will take care of the rest of the gluten formation. After kneading, divide into separate dough balls. I normally store them in oiled plastic Tupperware containers during fermentation. It sticks like hell to glass so I avoid glass containers.

I pre-heat the oven to 500F with the stone in it one hour before the first pie is going in. I shape on the counter with a little AP flour to keep it from sticking. I move it onto a wooden peel lightly dusted with more flour and top it. If it sits too long on the peel, like 3 minutes, it will stick. From there, I use the wooden peel to load it directly on the heated stone. Cook time is about 7 minutes but I have never timed it. I look for brown spotting on the crust and lightly browned cheese. I use an aluminum peel to remove the pie but that is not necessary. I just find that the wooden peels are thicker and harder to slide under. I put the cooked pie on a grate to allow it to cool before cutting. That keeps melted cheese from landsliding off and it keeps the bottom of the crust dry (crispy).

It is definitely some work. However, I usually invite family or friends over and it becomes a fun event, not just dinner. I often let my young niece help top pies. It's a good time. The pies are really great, too, since I can make them the way I like. One last tip...clean as you go and there is nothing left to do when the last pie comes out. My wife loves that part best.

Posted by BigPapiDoesItAgain
Amérique du Nord
Member since Nov 2009
2777 posts
Posted on 3/21/21 at 7:27 pm to
Thank you for the detailed response - I think it was the serious eats recipe I've used in the past for dough and baked using a sit on the grill top brick oven. I have a composite peel with a pretty thin profile - forget the brand, but its a recognizable company that makes cutting boards, etc.

I don't think I made the right kind of dough for how I was cooking the pies - I probably should've tried to make a Neapolitan type of dough for what I was doing. I'm gonna need to buy a steel or a stone - any recs? I'm probably not going to take the route of going to a metal fabricator for that, so I'd need something commercially available.
Posted by vuvuzela
Oregon
Member since Jun 2010
14663 posts
Posted on 3/21/21 at 7:37 pm to
Awesome post, thank you for sharing it!
Posted by ChEgrad
Member since Nov 2012
3265 posts
Posted on 3/21/21 at 8:24 pm to
Great post.

I use fresh mozzarella. What do you recommend?

I have gone through all of this, but not to the same extent as you. I have arrived at my method and my pizzas rival any of those I get at restaurants - even in pizza Meccas like New Haven.

I use a steel and 550 F oven on convection roast. If you are making many pizzas, then a steel retains heat better and you still get good charting on the bottom of each pizza. With a stone, my subsequent pizzas weren’t as good. It takes 4-5 minutes for my pizzas to bake.

I found that I can use 00 flour, but I add a bit of honey so it gets some color. Without a sugar it won’t brown at 550 F. I only use 00 flour for same-day dough. Sometimes. I almost always use AP flour.

I do a 3-day ferment in the refrigerator. One-day if no time. Same day in a pinch, but with an 8-hour or so room temperature ferment.

I bought a covered, plastic proofing tray that fits 6 doughs. I love it and it fits in the refrigerator. Technically it is a half-size proofing tray I think.

I use semolina flour for shaping and in the peel. Just seem to prefer it, although I will use regular flour if I don’t have semolina.

Homemade pizza is a great dinner party food - sit around, drink, make pizzas and eat them as the come out.

Posted by GynoSandberg
Member since Jan 2006
72028 posts
Posted on 3/21/21 at 8:34 pm to
Posted by Dam Guide
Member since Sep 2005
15511 posts
Posted on 3/21/21 at 8:45 pm to
quote:

I wouldn't use a pizza stone, I'd recommend a steel. If you want to get into bread (french baguettes, etc.) You can go to a steel fabricator with the measurement of your oven and have them cut something for you. Here is the guide for that:


Stone, not steel, remove safety lock from your oven and learn about how your oven performs in clean mode. Mine gets close to 900. I can cook a pizza in 3 minutes lol in my oven that way and get a really well cooked crust. Steel cooks the bottom too fast with this method, stones work better. Steels work better if you are stuck in the 550 degree range.

I got a masterbuilt gravity series 560, I kinda want to try it in that eventually though. It gets to 700 stock.





I'm lazy with my crust, I don't really measure. I get 4 crusts out of this:
Around a teaspoon of active dry yeast.
Tablespoon of salt
Tablespoon of sugar
2 cups of water
Not sure how much oil, maybe 2 tablespoons
4.5 cups of high protein flour and add beyond that til I get the moisture I want through feel, I like my dough wet

I let mine sit in the fridge a few days at least, about 5 days is where I like to eat it.
This post was edited on 3/21/21 at 8:46 pm
Posted by Dam Guide
Member since Sep 2005
15511 posts
Posted on 3/21/21 at 9:44 pm to
We need some sauce recipes, I am always on the hunt for a better sauce. I can't seem to nail one I really enjoy.

I've been just crushing some san marzano whole peeled lately and adding in random stuff like garlic powder, oregano, oil, little bit of sugar, salt and pepper.
This post was edited on 3/21/21 at 9:46 pm
Posted by wickowick
Head of Island
Member since Dec 2006
45814 posts
Posted on 3/21/21 at 10:07 pm to
quote:

We need some sauce recipes


Have you tried the Stanislaus Full red sauce?
first pageprev pagePage 1 of 2Next pagelast page

Back to top
logoFollow TigerDroppings for LSU Football News
Follow us on Twitter, Facebook and Instagram to get the latest updates on LSU Football and Recruiting.

FacebookTwitterInstagram